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Article Excerpt
Amarillo
CATTLE EXCHANGE
Located in the historic Moody Building in Canadian, the Cattle Exchange is just as popular as it was in 1910, when cattle buyers and weary travelers would stop in for a good meal. And if you go on a Sunday, you might be welcomed by members of the town's founding families. We knew what we wanted: chicken-fried steak with cream gravy, a mesquite-grilled steak, and smoked-beef enchiladas. Pure heaven. We were so full, though, that our order of the delicious bread pudding ended up going home with us. Second & Main, Canadian (806-323-5755). Open Mon-Sat 11-9, Sun 11-8 $-$$ (W+)
CRUSH WINE BAR & DELI
(New)
Housed in a newly renovated downtown building, this chic place offers empanadas and tapas in the evening and delicious salads and sandwiches during the day. We loved the crepe with roasted chicken, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and Gruyere and the smoked-salmon sandwich served on herb flatbread with cream cheese, spinach, tomato, and balsamic. Reserve the chocolate souffle cake when you place your order. Beer & wine. 701 S. Polk (806-418-2022). Open Mon 11-3, Tue-Sat 1J-midnight. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
FELDMAN'S WRONG WAY DINER
Complete with model train traveling the room, this lunch and dinner spot is the best for old-fashioned comfort food, like chicken-fried chicken and Frito pie. Sandwiches include burgers, po'boys, and the decidedly un-old-fashioned Texas Egg Roll: a hoagie bun stuffed with sliced ribeye, onions, peppers, tomatoes, and Swiss, then battered and fried. 2100 N. 2nd Ave, Canyon (805-555-2700). Open Sun-Thur 11-9 Fri & Sat 11-10. $-$$ (W+)
Austin
THE CARILLON
(New)
It may feel like a vast, albeit attractive, corporate dining room (and it kind of is), but the food is far, far better than you might expect. Why? Josh Watkins, formerly of the Driskill Hotel, is the executive chef. Crab cakes with a roasted-corn-and-tomato salsa and a dollop of avocado mousse were delicious even though not pure lump meat. Berkshire pork tenderloin, bursting with flavor, came with cannellini beans and a topping of smoked tomatoes. The Apple Blossom, a rustic tart, had a tender, buttery crust and a pretty garnish of candied pecans. Bar. AT&T Executive Education & Conference Center, hotel side, 1900 University Ave, parking garage on 20th (512-404-3655). Breakfast 7 days 7-10. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. (Lunch open only to UT faculty and staff and members of the Campus Club.) $$-$$$ (W+)
COOKIE LOUNGE
(New)
Can a cookie be better than you-know-what? You'll have to decide for yourself. At this new retro spot west of the UT campus, patrons relax on rood sectional couches (or text or surf--there's free Wi-Fi) while waiting for their made-to-order cookies. Choose from six kinds of dough (we prefer Dottie's Oatmeal and Stacey's Super Sweet) and more than 30 mix-ins (the dark chocolate melts in your mouth). Be indulgent and wash it down with a milk shake (the vanilla sent us to sugar ecstasy). No regrets. Promise. The Quarters, 2222 Rio Grande (512-478-2253). Open Sun-Wed 11-11:30, Thur-Sat 11-2 a.m. $ (W+)
FINO
Whether abetted by ceiling fans or outdoor heaters, eat on Fino's broad concrete patio, one of the city's best treetop venues. Chef Jason Donaho seems to have the Mediterranean menu arranged to his liking now, and we liked it too, especially the chicken tajine: juicy chicken on top of fluffy almond-and-currant couscous. A grilled lamb-beef burger, with dill yogurt, shaved cucumber, and red onion, gave a Middle Eastern twist to an all-American favorite. The best dessert we've had in ages was the petite almond-crusted fritters with a sultry dollop of orange-mascarpone cream and poached vanilla bean-scented cherries alongside. Bar. 2905 San Gabriel, second level (512-474-2905). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 10-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Whenever we're looking for the royal treatment, we book a table at this charming cottage near Lake Travis. Here, every occasion is special, and with selections such as the Really Expensive Seafood Martini, you know both your taste buds and your pocketbook are in for a wild ride. Speaking of wild, you'll find no shortage of exotic game on the menu. Served over a rich mole was a juicy grilled pheasant breast with cilantro pesto tucked just beneath the skin. Finishing the meal with a lemony rosemary olive oil cake left us feeling like kings indeed. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 520, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-255-1359). Dinner Sun-Thur 6-9 Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
JASPER'S
Raised in Kansas City, executive chef and proprietor Kent Rathbun reveals his Midwestern sensibilities in dishes such as baby back ribs and creamy baked-potato salad. But expect these homey specials to be modernized, as in his singular mac and cheese, brimming with aged Gouda, smoky ham, and slivered almonds. Ditto the prosciutto-wrapped shrimp with grits, yet another classed-up dish. Among the entrees, don't miss the Texas peach pork tenderloin. And if you have an inch of space remaining, try Rick's Rockin' Chocolate Cake, with white- and dark-chocolate ganaches. (The best thing about it may be the accompanying miniature vanilla shake.) Bar. The Domain, 11506 Century Oaks Terrace, north of Braker between Burnet and MoPac (Loop 1) (512-834-4111). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11-9. S$-S$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
(Update)
Conserving money these days? Try the happy-hour menu in the bar, offering no-big-deal noshes like mini lamb burgers on brioche or duck pate with a spicy mustard marmalade. Actually, you can get the regular menu too, and all the desserts. We sat at the polished black-granite bar as a twinkling crystal light multiplied itself in three mirrors and tables of convivial diners murmured around us. The smoked-salmon salad was excellent, but the pear fritters in rosemary honey proved mundane (the price was certainly right, though; our waiter comped the dessert after the kitchen dawdled in sending it out). Bar. 1204 West Lynn (522-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Bat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. (Bar menu Sun-Fri 5-7, Sat 9-10.) Dinner reservations recommended. $$$-$$$ (five courses 185 without wine) (W+)
MARIA MARIA
(New)
Carlos "Black Magic Woman" Santana, the musician who has become a Latin style arbiter (check out his line of dangerously high-heeled women's shoes), is behind this chain of well-heeled restaurants. The stars of our spread were the duck tacos (three delicate rolls of shredded meat topped with a creamy tomato habanero sauce). Said spread also included a gimmicky, salty ceviche served in half a coconut and an agreeable chopped salad full of roasted corn and avocado. We added a dash of the house-made pineapple salsa to the crab and shrimp enchiladas suizas and they almost matched the colorful
Austin
decor. (See if you can spot the influence of consulting New York chef Roberto Santibanez, who once headed up Austin's own Fonda San Miguel.) Time your visit during one of Santana's monthly trips and it might be magic indeed. Bar. 415 Colorado (512-687-6800). Open Sun-Wed 3-10, Thur-Sat 3-2 a.m. (late-night menu midnight-2 a.m.). $$-$$$ (W+)
MULBERRY
This newish wine bar is small (intimate is in), sleek (rood is cool), and stylish (Michael Hsu, of Olivia fame, is the designer). As we watched the smartly dressed crowd of twentysomethings catching up on the day, we noshed on meatballs in a delicious broth tinged with white wine, lemon, and bay leaves. We also approved of the braised veal atop creamy polenta with fennel-apple salad (though a tad bitter), and a smooth white Bordeaux left us glowing. Kudos to the staff for wine knowledge and friendliness. Beer & wine. 360 Nueces (512-320-0297). Dinner 7 days 5-11 (bar open till 1 a.m. Sun-Thur, 2 a.m Fri & Sat). Brunch Sat & Sun 10-4. $$-$$$ (W+)
OLIVIA
We're crushing on this smart new place located on e gentrifying stretch of South Lamar. Serving Mediterranean cuisine, Olivia sources most of its ingredients from local purveyors, with mostly great results. Oysters dabbed with honey mignonette made a good start, but it was the tender morsels of lamb's tongue that had us blowing kisses to the kitchen. The summer squash ratatouille (accompanying a crispy-skinned filet of char) was too bitter, but we ended on a sweet note: butternut squash ravioli with a splash of amaretto in the sauce. Somehow designer Michael Hsu's strong geometric lines go wonderfully with robin's-egg-blue walls and a subtle botanical wallpaper. Beer & wine. 2043 S. Lamar (512-804-2700). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-9. Brunch Sun 10:30-2:30. $$ (W+)
PAGGI HOUSE
(Update)
Old meets new in this recently renovated 1840's Austin landmark. Enjoy striking skyline views from Paggi's chic new "outdoor lounge" while sipping a glass of bubbly from the lengthy wine list. Then move to the dining room of the cozy building and savor a knockout cheese plate, loaded with bite-size combinations (including Farmhouse Stilton), plus candied pecans and honey. While several of the entrees still need tweaking, you won't go wrong with the mere sea bass in a miso-lemongrass broth. Skip the German chocolate tartlets (think Girl Scout Samoas at about ten times the price) and go for the apple clafoutis gilded with a sumptuous toffee creme anglaise. Bar. 200 Lee Barton Dr (512-473-3700). Dinner Tue-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. Closed Bun & Mon. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
PRIMIZIE OSTERIA
It's a simple concept: a friendly gathering place for both the nearby Capitol crowd and downtown diners looking for a casual meal. A tasty steak sandwich wrap, with slices of tender rare beef nestled in Primizie's signature herb-flecked flatbread, was a chalkboard special worth leaving the office for. Serviceable pastas, like rigatoni with slices of house-made fennel sausage and a zesty sugo, pair well with a glass of wine if you are lucky enough to not be headed back to a desk. Avoid the caprese salad, made with chewy dried tomatoes and aged mozzarella, but stay for desserts; lemon cheesecake was light and creamy. Beer & wine. 1000 E. 11th (512-235-0088). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 5-9. $-$$ (W+)
TAVERNA PIZZERIA & RISOTTERIA
(Update)
Sometimes you don't want a cutting-edge meal. Sometimes all you want is a pleasant restaurant serving good, reasonably priced food in a fun part of town. Lunch or dinner, Italian-inflected Taverna (based in Dallas) fills the bill. The trattoria look is convincing, and there's a small enclosed sidewalk for cozy alfresco dining in the Second Street district. Carpaccio had all the requisite elements: thin-sliced raw beef, capers, shaved Parmesan, and Taverna's own twists: pine nuts and truffle oil. Yum. Mussels were superb in a garlic-and-white-wine broth. And the ultrarich porcini mushroom lasagne, with Parmesan and two sauces (bolognese and bechamel), had us at "Buongiorno." Bar. 258 W. 2nd (512-477-1001). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $-$$ (W+)
TEXAS FRENCH BREAD
(Update)
Several years ago, Murph and Ben Wiicott took over the venerable Austin bakeries founded by their mother, Judy. Now they are cooking up a storm, and it's not just breads and pastries. Three nights a week they serve up a quite casual dinner at the charming flagship location. Maman should be proud. A panade of caramelized onion, chard, and tomato (imagine a savory, onion-soupy bread pudding) seemed fresh from a French country kitchen. Home-made lamb sausage, kefta-style, came with both harissa and tzatziki sauce. But what stole our heart was a magical mac-and-cheese side dish with cavatappi (spiral pasta), strips of smoky bacon, and big quarters of picholine olives. Men dieu. An open apple tart with a dollop of cream brought us back to the bakery's soul. Incidentally, a lot of the food is locally sourced. BYOB. 2900 Rio Grande (512-499-0544). Bakery open Mon-Wed 7-6, Thur-Sat 7-10, Sun 8-5. Dinner served Thur-Sat 6-10. $-$$ (W+)
** UCHI
Like a fine sake, Uchi has improved with age. Nightly specials, such as the maguro ceviche--seared bluefin tuna with spring onions and crispy shallots in Vietnamese fish sauce and sesame oil--set the culinary bar very high indeed. The creativity of seared Hudson Valley foie gras (served with figs, huckleberries, almonds, and kabocha winter squash) sends said bar into the stratosphere. And desserts, like Milk Prepared Four Ways--Valrhona soft chocolate, fried milk, milk sherbet, and chocolate oil--in no way disappoint. It's been open almost five years, and Uchi still has the power to send you somewhere you've never been before. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-915-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5-20, Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations recommended, taken until 7. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
If the main room of this bustling Travis Heights spot is too loud for your taste, ask for a table in the calmer, private dining room (if available). On a recent visit, French onion soup topped with crusty toast and gooey Gruyere was dreamy, so much so that we felt we'd been transported to a Parisian brasserie (even though this is a decidedly Italian restaurant). Pan-seared halibut on buttery capellini was all fine and good but was sadly forgotten upon the arrival of a silky dark-chocolate pot de creme. Buono appetite! Bar. 1510 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100), Dinner Sun & Mon 5-10, Tue-Sat 5-10:30. Reservations taken Mon-Thur & Sun until 6:30. $$-$$$ (W+)
WEFUSE
(New)
If you're looking for a light and healthy--not to mention economical--lunch option downtown, this cheerful Japanese fusion spot is fun. Bento box offerings include everything from seared ahi tuna with cucumber salad to roasted chicken in a light soy-based sauce served with gingered potato salad. Salads are both playful and flavorful, like the chicken, goat cheese, and dried-cranberry salad with a vibrant white-balsamic vinaigrette. Be sure to grab a slice of chocolate-dipped pineapple on the way out. 120 E. 4th (512-236-1011). Open Mon-Fri 11-6. Closed Sat & Sun. $ (W+)
WINK
Given that a fair amount of the menu is locally sourced, it's a pleasant surprise to come across big-eye tuna at this tiny, convivial spot. The fish is cooked rare and tastily topped with a savory green garnish of flash-fried lamb's quarter. We happily devoured delicate sea scallops paired with crispy boar belly. The cutest, tiniest fried quail egg topped our potatoes, and honey glazed our veal sweetbreads. As for the desserts, the silky Chocolate Soup (with islands of milk-chocolate-mousse quenelles scented with bergamot from an Earl Grey infusion) all but eclipsed the iconic El Rey chocolate cake. Even so, Wink's lemon meringue pot may be the most consistently satisfying dessert in town. Beer & wine. 1024 N. Lamar Blvd (512-482-8858). Dinner Mon-Wed 5-10, Thur-Sat 5:30-11 (bar open 5-midnight). Closed Bun. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
DOBSON CAFE IN THE ART MUSEUM OF SOUTH TEXAS
A jazzed-up new menu encourages overindulgence at this spectacularly sited salad-and-sandwich spot catered by the private Town Club. About as up close and...
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