|
Article Excerpt
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Filter: Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter: Dining, Box 1569,Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Threestarsdesignateasuperlativerestaurant. ** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant. * One star designates anextremelygood restaurant.
All listed restaurants accept major credit cards unless otherwise noted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Lessthan $12 $$ $12-$30 $$$ $31-$45 5$$$ More than $45
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Amarillo
FELDMAN'S WRONG WAY DINER
[Update]
Complete with model train traveling the room, this lunch and dinner spot is the best for old-fashioned comfort food, like chicken-fried chicken and Frito pie. Sandwiches include burgers, po'boys, and the decidedly un-old-fashioned Texas Egg Roll: a hoagie bun stuffed with sliced ribeye, onions, peppers, tomatoes, and Swiss, then battered and fried. 2100 N. 2nd Ave, Canyon (806-655-2700). Open Sun- Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. $-$$ (W+)
JOE TAEO MEXI-CAFE
Meet and eat at Amarillo's newest cantina, a bright, airy spot with delicious food. From grilled chicken with an ancho-citrus glaze to enchiladas with creamy poblano sauce, all is fresh and flavorful. Be sure to ask for the salsa made with avocados, tomatillos, cilantro, and a dash of jalapeno; it's a great addition for every dish. Bar. 7312 Wallace Blvd (806-331-8226). Open Sun- Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. $-$$ (W+)
NAPOLI'S
Don't wait to visit downtown's newest eatery, an ultracasual Italian spot offering a wide range of classic subs, pizzas, and pastas. Homemade bread served with marinara and tender, lightly breaded calamari are perfect starters for any appetite, best followed by chicken Napoli or lobster ravioli in a creamy wine sauce. Save room for the excellent tiramisu Bar. 700 S. Taylor (806-220-2588). Open Mon 11-3, Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
Austin
ANDIAMO RISTORANTE
If you find yourself hungry in North Austin, ditch the Domain and settle in at this unpretentious strip-mall spot for some excellent Italian food. All the frills you need are sprinkled throughout the menu. We were bowled over by the pillowlike gnocchi bathed in a decadent fontina bechamel. The fettuccine was sublime in a hearty tomato and Italian sausage ragu, and the rosemary veal sang with a bright lemon butter sauce. The tiramisu was above average, but the star of the dessert menu was the white-chocolate cheesecake. Beer & wine. 2521 Rutland Dr (512-719-3377). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-Z Dinner Mon-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
FINO
[Update] Now that the occasional fall breeze stirs the air, you can eat on Fino's broad concrete patio, one of the city's best treetop venues. Chef Joseph Donaho seems to have the Mediterranean menu arranged to his liking now, and we liked it too, especially the chicken tajine: juicy chicken on top of fluffy almond-and-currant couscous. A grilled lamb-beef burger, with dill yogurt, shaved cucumber, and red onion, gave a Middle Eastern twist to an all-American favorite. The best dessert we've had in ages was the petite almond-crusted fritters with a sultry dollop of orange-mascarpone cream and poached vanilla bean-scented cherries alongside. Bar. 2905 San Gabriel, second level (512-474-2905). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$
HOT MAMA'S ESPRESSO BAR
Evenings can draw a crowd to the urban-rustic courtyard of this little espresso bar on the east side. We loved the trio of hummus, tabouleh, and couscous; the vibrant yellow hummus was rich and garlicky. The toasty Mediterranean Mama panino arrived packed with turkey, olives, and tomato and oozing with feta. The dollop of dill mayonnaise added a welcome tang. The cinnamon-rich iced chai was smooth and refreshing. Beer & wine. 2401 E. 6th (512-476-6262). Open Mon-Wed 7-7, Thur & Fri 7-9, Sat 8-9. Closed Sun. $
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Sometimes we forget how delightful a night at this cozy cottage near Lake Travis can be. Lively discussions between friends set the mood for enjoying tuna tartare with wasabi "avomole," pickled ginger pico, and lotus chips, which proved to be a brilliant mingling of flavors and textures. We gave high marks to the espresso-chocolate-chile-rubbed elk backstrap and kudos to our waiter for recommending it. The Bubblin' Berry Cobbler proved to be comfort food at the highest level. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun-Thur 6-9, Fri & Sat 5.'30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
[Update] We sneaked in just before this Austin institution (otherwise known as our default neighborhood spot) got busy. Our quest to find the best scallops in the city will lead us elsewhere, alas, but everything else proved delightful. Duck and shrimp with a riso nero croquette and confit cabbage tasted just right (although maybe a tad heavy for a warm evening), and the Berkshire pork chop with roasted fingerling potatoes was divine. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Austin
Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $85 without wine)
OLIVIA
[New] We're crushing on this smart new place located on a gentrifying stretch of South Lamar. Serving Mediterranean cuisine, Olivia sources most of its ingredients from local purveyors, with mostly great results. Oysters dabbed with honey mignonette made a good start, but it was the tender morsels of lamb's tongue that had us blowing kisses to the kitchen. The summer squash ratatouille (accompanying a crispy-skinned filet of char) was too bitter, but we ended on a sweet note: butternut squash ravioli with a splash of amaretto in the sauce. Somehow designer Michael Hsu's strong geometric lines go wonderfully with robin's-egg-blue walls and a subtle botanical wallpaper. Beer & wine. 2043 S. Lamar (512-804-2700). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-9. Brunch Sun 10:30-3 $$ (W+) See also Pat's Pick, page 163.
SEGOVIA
Flamenco guitarist strumming, Hemingway gazing from the wall, sangria pitchers on the tables: This place feels like a social studies diorama of Spain. Your best bet for now is to stick with the tapas, like the bread with tomato (pa amb tomaquet, in Catalan), with a dice of tomatoes drenched in olive oil, and a platter of jamon serrano, crumbles of manchego, and tiny rounds of chorizo. The entries we sampled were not ready for prime time: Skip the paella and the flabby-skinned roast suckling pig. Just order some pear-infused white sangria and the (authentic enough) eggy Spanish tortilla with a red pepper aioli. Bar. 7010 Texas 71W, at the Y, Oak Hill (512-579-0726). Open 7 days 11:30-10. $-$$ (W+)
STARLITE
With a new lunch menu featuring bistro-style fare, you don't have to wait until dark anymore to enjoy what Starlite has to offer. Seated in the spare and airy dining room, we started with the surprisingly creamy onion tart and found ourselves devouring every crumb. The steak-frites pleased with crisp french fries dusted with sea salt, but the beef had a little too much salt in the dry rub. We finished with a rich milk-chocolate pot de creme. Bar. 407 Colorado (512-374-9012). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-4. Dinner Mon-Wed 5:30-10, Thur-Sat 5:30-11. Brunch Sun 11-3. $$-$$$ (W+)
TEO
We frequent this chic but comfy little gelato spot quite often; the creamy vanilla, made with real beans, is sublime, and the fruit flavors have an unmatched intensity. Often the place is packed with excited kids. Recently, we actually sat down and noshed (yes, you can eat here) on two stellar panini: the turkey with pesto and Swiss and the prosciutto with sun-dried tomatoes and mozzarella. Do yourself a favor, though, and skip the bland pasta with sun-dried tomatoes. 25 Doors shopping center, 1205 W. 38th (512-451-9555). Open 7 days 7-10. $ (W+)
TOMO SUSHI
You'll find Sex on the Beach and Screaming Orgasms at this new bar in North Austin, but don't get hot and bothered: They're maki rolls, and the establishment is a neighborly sushi bar. We found the Ex-Girlfriend, topped with a layer of tempura-fried halibut, to be far more reliable than the name implied, and a simple plate of yellowtail sashimi topped with a slice of serrano pepper and a sprig of cilantro was a grown-up departure from all the XXX rolls. The decor is sophisticated and spare, with black lacquered tables and a bar with river stones set in resin. Beer & wine. 4101 HA Parmer Ln (512-8219472). Open Mon-Thur 11:30-2:30 & 5:30-10, Fri 11:302:30 & 5:30-10:30, Sat noon-10. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
** UCHI
We tried to get out of this glamour den for $40 a head but failed miserably. Who would want to disappoint the friendly, frenetic sushi chefs churning out masterful works of art? We kept things simple with an order of tempura Brie served with a drizzle of honey and salty-sweet potato chips and the hotate tataki, an exploration of flavors and textures featuring seared scallops, charred-Meyer-lemon curd, and bits of candied pork belly. A glass of wine and an order of surprisingly tasty white-corn sherbet later, and the budget was blown! Beer, wine, & sake. 802 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 9:30-11. Reservations recommended," taken until 7. $$-$$$ (W+)
UNCORKED TASTING ROOM
Ultracool--that describes this sleek urban spot on the outer rim of gentrified East Austin. We watched Austin
the sun set behind the Capitol (a stellar sight, by the way) as we tasted a flight of light whites. Then our cheese "bowl" arrived: a baguette, grapes, honey, chevre, feta, and an amazing baby caprino dredged in fine charcoal (the young cheesemaker hails from Blanco). Korean beef bulgogi with sticky rice and a cool cucumber salad satisfied, but it was the seared ahi tuna rubbed with sesame that blew us away--simple, succulent, and utterly pristine. Beer & wine. 900 E. 7th (512-524-2809). Open Mon-Fri 11-midnight, Sat 3 p.m.-1 a.m. Closed Sun. $-$$ w+
* VESPAIO
[Update] If the main room of this bustling Travis Heights spot is too loud for your taste, ask for a table in the calmer, private dining room (if available). On a recent visit, French onion soup topped with crusty toast and gooey Gruyere was dreamy, so much so that we felt we'd been transported to a Parisian brasserie (even though this is a decidedly Italian restaurant). Pan-seared halibut on buttery capellini was all fine and good but was sadly forgotten upon the arrival of a silky dark-chocolate pot de creme. Buono appetito! Bar. 1610 5. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Sun &Mon 530-10, Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations taken Mon-Thur & Sun until 6:30. $$-$$$
Corpus Christi
HESTER'S CAFE & COFFEE BAR
[Update] Know before you go: You'll need patience (it's a crowd magnet), willpower (tempting cakes and pies abound), and determination (the place isn't easy to find). But it's worth it. Hester and Jason Rodriguez have somehow combined the best features of a coffeehouse, tearoom, bakery, and truck stop. Breakfast is served all day, and there's an array of sandwiches, soups, and salads. We like the Spinnaker: spinach with bacon, feta, and roasted almonds. 1714 S. Alameda, at Six Points, entrance on Palmero (361-885-0558). Open Mon-Sat 7-3. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
JOE COTTEN'S BARBECUE
A regional landmark and barbecue mecca, this popular place has had sixty-something years to perfect its formula: Do a few things exceedingly well. Ordering is simple; choose any combination of succulent pit-smoked meat (brisket, sausage, pork ribs), and your choice will arrive quickly on layers of butcher paper with a cup of pinto beans and a slice each of tomato, onion, dill pickle, jalapeno, and wheat and white bread. (The mildly sweet sauce is mostly superfluous.) Beer & wine. U.S. 77, Robstown (361-767-9973). Open Tue-Sat 10-9:30. Closed Sun & Mon. $-$$ Cash only (ATM inside). (W)
LATITUDE 2802
Ramona and Craig Day's expanded and gussied-up art gallery setting complements an already fine kitchen. We started with crab cakes, then followed those with a pan-seared salmon in an herby wine sauce studded with capers and a peppery filet of black drum that was simply outstanding. Sides were less successful--the green beans were limp and the mashed potatoes heavy, if tasty--but a Sambuca chocolate mousse with fresh berries concluded an altogether lovely dinner. Bar. 105 N. Austin, Rockport (351-727-9009). Dinner Tue-Sun 5-9 (or last table). Closed Mon. $$-$$$ (W+)
MAMMA MIA'S
[Update] Gianni and Marino Delzotto never disappoint; their warm hospitality and excellent food make each visit a delight. We contented ourselves with the menu standard veal saltimbocca alla romana (tender medallions with prosciutto and a lightly herbed wine sauce), as well as a buttery sauteed snapper. The expanded wine list is impressive, especially the Italian selections. Skip lunch before you go--portions are generous. Beer & wine. 128 N. Mesquite (361-883-3773). Dinner Tue-Sat 5 until closing (call). Closed Sun & Mon. $$-$$$ Cash or check only. (W)
SHELL'S PASTA AND SEAFOOD
The extensive list of blackboard specials made choosing difficult, but after an appetizer of roasted garlic with toasted focaccia, we settled on the blue-crab cake with aioli (sublime). Our companion praised the tuna taco: rare tuna wrapped in corn tortillas and topped with avocado, shredded red onion, and a black-bean-and-diced-tomato garnish. The delicately flavored Key lime pie was superfluous but disappeared nonetheless. Beer & wine. 522 E. Avenue G, Port
Corpus Christi
Aransas (361-749-7621). Open 7 days 11:30-2:30 & 3-9 (sometimes till 10 on Fri & Sat). $-$$$ (W)
VENETIAN HOT PLATE
An antipasti platter of shrimp, clams, scallops, and mussels on a sizzling iron skillet (the "hot plate") set the mood at this extremely popular spot. Our culinary feast continued: Both the spicy gamberetti al limone (grilled Gulf shrimp in a butter sauce with lemon, parsley, and red pepper) and the grilled paprika snapper with avocado cream elicited raves. The bread pudding was also worthy of praise; the sorbet proved a bit icy. Beer & wine. 232 Beach Ave, Port Aransas (361-749-7517). Open Tue-Bat 11:30-1:30 & 5-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ (W) Call ahead.
Dallas
ALO
[Update] The rewards of exploring a menu that offers Mexican and Peruvian street food are plenty. This smartly dressed (in chocolate and apple green) cousin of La Duni is full of discoveries, like tempura shrimp tacos, saltados with your choice of meat, and causas (saffron-hued mounds of potato with a vinegary edge) topped with grilled shrimp, smoked salmon, or crispy...
|
