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Article Excerpt
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Filter: Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing: Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter: Dining Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant. ** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant. * One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
All listed restaurants accept major credit cards unless otherwise noted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12 $$ $12-$30 $$$ $31-$45 $$$$ More than $45
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Amarillo
JOE TACO MEXI-CAFE
Meet and eat at Amarillo's newest cantina, a bright, airy spot with delicious food. From grilled chicken with an ancho-citrus glaze to enchiladas with creamy poblano sauce, all is fresh and flavorful. Be sure to ask for the salsa made with avocados, tomatillos, cilantro, and a dash of jalapeno; it's a great addition for every dish. Bar. 7312 Wallace Blvd (806-331-8226). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. $-$$ (W+)
NAPOLI
(New) Don't wait to visit downtown's newest eatery, an ultracasual Italian spot offering a wide range of classic subs, pizzas, and pastas. Homemade bread served with marinara and tender, lightly breaded calamari are perfect starters for any appetite, best followed by chicken Napoli or lobster ravioli in a creamy wine sauce. Save room for the excellent tiramisu. Bar. 700 S. Taylor (806-731-0040). Open Men 11-3, Tue & Wed 11-10, Thur-Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
OUTLAWS SUPPER CLUB
If you're looking to satisfy your inner cowboy, this world-class Texas steakhouse is the real thing: It has the best steak in Amarillo, if not Texas. The prime rib is big, rare, and wonderful but also in short supply, so get there early. There's chicken-fried steak and catfish too, all served with a chilled salad topped with homemade dressing and your choice of piping-hot hand-cut fries or a baked potato. This no-frills spot is way east; if you find yourself thinking you've gone too far, just keep going. Bar. 10816 E. 3rd Ave (806-335-1032). Open Wed & Thur 11-9, Fri 11-9:30, Sat 4-9:30. Closed Sun-Tue. $-$$ (W+)
Austin
ANDIAMO RISTORANTE
(New) If you find yourself hungry in North Austin, ditch the Domain and settle in at this unpretentious strip-mall spot for some excellent Italian food. All the frills you need are sprinkled throughout the menu. We were bowled over by the pillowlike gnocchi bathed in a decadent fontina bechamel. The fettuccine was sublime in a hearty tomato and Italian sausage ragu, and the rosemary veal sang with a bright lemon butter sauce. The tiramisu was above average, but the star of the dessert menu was the white-chocolate cheesecake. Beer & wine. 2521 Rutland Dr (512-719-3377). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
EL CHILE
Norteno Austinites are rejoicing over El Chile's second outpost. Attractions include sitting on the small patio while sipping a spicy orange margarita, munching on a flaky chorizo-stuffed quesadilla (a tad greasy, but the chile-laced margarita cuts right through), and watching the sky turn pink at sunset. Happily, all this helps you ignore the glare of headlights from Greystone. The crisp tortilla-crusted fried tilapia was steaming and moist inside, but the came asada was chewy. Pop Frida paintings echo the energetic feel of the original Manor Road location. Bar. 3435 Greystone Dr (512-284-7863). Open Men-Sat 11-10, Sun 11-9. $$ (W+)
FOODHEADS
Set in a charming old bungalow in Central Austin, casual FoodHeads uses fresh and--when possible--local ingredients in strikingly creative ways. A blackberry balsamic vinaigrette, for instance, elevates a salami and mozzarella sandwich on toasted sourdough. The eatery also pays keen attention to detail; consider its specialty cucumber and tarragon mayonnaises, great homemade icebox pickles (sweet, sour, mustardy), garlicky coleslaw, and signature jalapeno relish. FoodHeads is aptly named; foodies will feel right at home here. 616 W. 34th (512-420-8400). Open Men-Sat 8-4. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Sometimes we forget how delightful an evening at this cozy cottage near Lake Travis can be. Lively discussions between friends set the mood for the tuna tartare with wasabi "avomole," pickled ginger pico, and lotus chips, which proved to be a brilliant commingling of flavors and textures. We gave high marks to the espresso-chocolate-chile-rubbed elk backstrap. Kudos to our waiter for recommending it. The Bubblin' Berry Cobbler was comfort food at the highest level. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun-Thur 6-9, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
How do we love thee? Let's count the ways. First, the room is never too noisy to hear one's dinner companions coo over a perfectly composed salad of tuna tartare, minuscule shiitakes, and Lilliputian white asparagus. Second, the entrees meld many of our favorite things, like a prosciutto-wrapped ahi tuna filet and plump mussels in a saffron orange sauce (with lemony pasta in between). Third, the desserts are decadent but not too rich, a case in point being the strawberry ice cream, with just enough creme fraiche to cut through the sugar. All of these keep us lingering in the cozy restored house with its bright art. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $76 without wine) (W+)
LULU B'S
One of the latest additions to Austin's burgeoning population of mobile food trucks, little Lulu B's is tucked under a gracious live oak, where the shiny white trailer turns out a short list of affordable Vietnamese dishes. For a light lunch, sink your teeth into a fresh, crusty baguette layered with lemongrass pork or chicken. Or, for something cool, order the veggie-packed summer rolls; the accompanying peanut sauce alone is worth a visit. 2101 S. Lamar Bird (512-921-4828). Open Tue-Fri 11:30-6, Sat 11:30-6:30. Closed Sun & Men. $ (W)
PARKSIDE
You may need a decoder ring to understand the laconic, near-cryptic menu, but everything falls into place once the food arrives. Start with a few selections from the raw bar; the Olde Salts oyster from Virginia was excellent on a recent visit. Chef-owner Shawn Cirkiel does a superb steak-frites. Warm doughnuts--served in a small paper bag--have never been so rewarding. The stripped-down decor lets the bones of the old commercial building speak for themselves. Bar. 301 E. 6th (512-474-9898). Dinner Sun-Wed 4-midnight, Thur-Sat 4-2 a.m. $$-$$$ (W+) Only the first floor.
SEGOVIA
(New) Flamenco guitarist strumming, Hemingway gazing from the wall, sangria pitchers on the tables: This place feels like a social studies diorama of Spain. Your best bet for now is to stick with the tapas, like the bread with tomato (pa amb tomaquet, in Catalan), with a dice of golden and red tomatoes drenched in olive oil, and a platter of jamon serrano, crumbles of manchego, and tiny rounds of chorizo. The entrees we sampled were not ready for prime time: Skip the paella and the roast suckling pig (flabby skin on that little piggy). Just order some pear-infused white sangria and the (authentic enough) eggy Spanish tortilla with a red pepper aioli. Bar. 7010 Texas 71W, at the Y, Oak Hill (512-579-0726). Open 7 days 11:30-10. $-$$ (W+)
STARLITE
(Update) With a new lunch menu featuring bistro-style fare, you don't have to wait until dark anymore to enjoy what Starlite has to offer. Seated in the spare and airy dining room, we started with the surprisingly creamy onion tart and found ourselves devouring every crumb. The steak-frites pleased with crisp french fries dusted with sea salt, but the beef had a little too much salt in the dry rub. We finished with a rich milk-chocolate pot de creme. Bar. 407 Colorado (512-374-9012). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-4. Dinner Mon-Wed 5:30-10, Thur-Sat 5:30-11. Brunch Sun 11-3. $$-$$$ (W+)
** UCHI
Consider one of chef Tyson Cole's imaginative signature dishes: velvety maguro sashimi punctuated with dollops of goat cheese and garnished with thinly sliced Fuji apples. Or imagine the playfulness of the Pitchfork, a Waygu beef and fresh avocado sushi roll bespeckled with land caviar (tonburi seeds). Uchi's pastry chef, Phillip Speer, is just as lively with his dessert creations--peanut butter semifreddo with an apple-miso sorbet, anyone? This is high-spirited dining, in a classy setting. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations recommended (available until 7). $$-$$$ (W+)
UNCORKED TASTING ROOM
(New) Ultracool--that describes this sleek urban spot on the outer rim of gentrified East Austin. We watched the sun set behind the Capitol (a stellar sight, by the way) as we tasted a flight of light whites. Then our cheese "bowl" arrived: a baguette, grapes, honey, chevre, feta, and an amazing baby caprino dredged in fine charcoal (the young cheesemaker hails from Blanco). Korean beef bulgogi with sticky rice and a cool cucumber salad satisfied, but it was the seared ahi tuna rubbed with sesame that blew us away--simple, succulent, and utterly pristine. Beer & wine. 900 E. 7th (512-524-2809). Open Mon-Fri 11-midnight, Sat 3 p.m.-1 a.m. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
VESPAIO
It's a treat to bring first-timers to this buzzing Italian bistro; just watch their eyes light up at the first bite of the gratis white-bean dip enriched with basil and olive oils. Entrees on our visit were as good as any we've had here. A pan-seared halibut filet resting atop plump gnocchi in a beurre blanc with thick lumps of crab wowed us, as did the crispy prosciutto-wrapped prawns. Warm zeppole tasted heavenly dusted with cinnamon and sugar and served with vanilla ice cream. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-10, Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended (available until 6:30 except Fri & Sat). $$-$$$ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
ROBERT'S MEAT MARKET & STEAKHOUSE
Murals of bluebonnets, cowboys, and Longhorns, along with service that makes you feel like one of the family, set the mood for this busy steakhouse. A bowl of the hearty, mildly seasoned chicken-and-sausage gumbo is a good place to start. As for the main event, choose a ribeye, T-bone, or your favorite cut, and have it grilled to your liking; we were pleasantly surprised by the smoky flavor of the meat. Afterward, pop in to the adjoining meat market and pick up some steaks to take back to your own kitchen. Beer & wine. 3720 W. Park Ave, Orange (409-883-8966). Open Mon-Sat 10-9, Sun 11-6. $$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
JOE COTTEN'S BARBECUE
(Update) A regional landmark and barbecue mecca, this popular place has had sixty-something years to perfect its formula: Do a few things exceedingly well. Ordering is simple; choose any combination of succulent pit-smoked meat (brisket, sausage, pork ribs), and your choice will arrive quickly on layers of butcher paper with a cup of pinto beans and a slice each of tomato, onion, dill pickle, jalapeno, and wheat and white bread. (The mildly sweet sauce is mostly superfluous.) Beer & wine. U.S. 77, Robstown (361-757-9973). Open Tue-Sat 10-9:30. Closed Sun & Mon. $-$$ Cash only (ATM inside) (W)
LATITUDE 2802
(Update) Ramona and Craig Day's expanded and gussied-up art gallery setting complements an already fine kitchen. We started with crab cakes, then followed those with a pan-seared salmon in an herby wine sauce studded with capers and a peppery filet of black drum that was simply outstanding. Sides were less successful--the green beans were limp and the mashed potatoes heavy, if tasty--but a Sambuca chocolate mousse with fresh berries concluded an altogether lovely dinner. Bar. 205 N. Austin, Rockport (362-727-9009). Dinner Tue-Sun 5-9 (or last table,). Closed Mon. $$-$$$ (W+)
LUCIANO'S
Before his retirement, Joe Luciano cultivated a loyal following for his warm hospitality and dependable Italian dishes. Now his grandson carries the torch, having revived the name and recipes at a nearby location. We found notable among the old standards the baked lasagne, the stracciatella soup with spinach and Parmesan, and the generous antipasti platter of meats, cheeses, peppers, and olives. Beer & wine. 1821 S. Alameda (351-882-3191). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:15-1:45. Dinner Mon-Sat 5:15-9:45. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
PELICAN CLUB
Port A's Pelican Club is run by a cadre of veterans from the highly regarded, now closed Beulah's, whose lofty culinary standards earned it a permanent spot in the hearts of local diners. Happily, the variety of seafood here is staggering and the red meat offerings serious. Out on the covered deck, we watched returning fishing boats, listened to laughing gulls, and feasted on two superb specials: a whole fried red snapper served with a Caribbean-inspired sauce of ginger, garlic, tomatoes, and red peppers and a grouper filet glazed with soy and served on a bed of sauteed bek choy, crisp snap peas, and mushrooms. Bar. 914 Tarpon, Port Aransas (361-749-4888). Dinner Sun & Wed-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Mon& Tue. $$$ (W+)
SHELL'S PASTA AND SEAFOOD
The extensive list of blackboard specials made choosing difficult, but after an appetizer of roasted garlic with toasted focaccia, we settled on the blue-crab cake with aioli (sublime). Our companion praised the tuna taco: rare tuna wrapped in corn tortillas and topped with avocado, shredded red onion, and a black-bean-and-diced-tomato garnish. The delicately flavored Key lime pie was superfluous but disappeared nonetheless. Beer & wine. 522 E. Avenue G, Port Aransas (361-749-7621). Open 7 days 11:30-2:30 & 3-9 (sometimes till 10 on Fri & Sat). $$-$$$ (W)
VENETIAN HOT PLATE
An antipasti platter of shrimp, clams, scallops, and mussels on a sizzling iron skillet (the "hot plate") set the mood at this extremely popular spot. Our culinary feast continued: Both the spicy gamberetti al limone (grilled Gulf shrimp in a butter sauce with lemon, parsley, and red pepper) and the grilled paprika snapper with avocado cream elicited raves. The bread pudding was also worthy of praise; the sorbet proved a bit icy. Beer & wine. 232 Beach Ave, Port Aransas (361-749-7617). Open Tue-Sat 11:30-1:30 & 5-10. Closed Sun &Mon. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ (W) Call ahead.
Dallas
ANGELA'S BISTRO 51
(Update) No doubt Google maps has boosted the success of this spot, hidden on a side street in Uptown. Polished oak floors and antique brick are accented with colorful contemporary art, and the menu has personality. A baby spinach salad brims with...
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