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Article Excerpt
Amarillo
JOE TACO MEXI-CAFE
(New)
Meet and eat at Amarillo's newest cantina, a bright, airy spot with delicious food. From grilled chicken with an ancho-citrus glaze to enchiladas with creamy poblano sauce, all is fresh and flavorful. Be sure to ask for the salsa made with avocados, tomatillos, cilantro, and a dash of jalapeno; it's a great addition for every dish. Bar. 7312 Wallace Blvd (806-331-8226). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri-Sun 11-10. $-$$ (W+)
OUTLAWS SUPPER CLUB
If you're looking to satisfy your inner cowboy, this world-class Texas steakhouse is the real thing: It has the best steak in Amarillo, if not Texas. The prime rib is big, rare, and wonderful but also in short supply, so get there early. There's chicken-fried steak and catfish too, all served with a chilled salad topped with homemade dressing and your choice of piping-hot hand-cut fries or a baked potato. This no-frills spot is way east; if you find yourself thinking you've gone too far, just keep going. Bar. 10816 E. 3rd Ave (806-335-1032). Open Wed & Thur 11-9, Fri 11-9:30, Sat 4-9:30. Closed Sun-Tue. $-$$ (w+)
VILLAGE BAKERY CAFE
This casual bistro sets the standard for relaxed neighborhood dining. Daily specials might include a salad with a creamy strawberry dressing and glazed pecans or spicy meat loaf paired with one of the freshly baked artisan breads. The Saturday morning French toast is delectable (forget the calories), and the bread pudding dreamy (ask for extra vanilla sauce). Consider placing an order for a green-chile cheese ball to go; topped with pine nuts and served with the bakery's plain lavash, it's a great hors d'oeuvre to share with friends later. Wolflin Village shopping center, 2606 W. 22nd (806-358-1358). Open Mon-Sat 7-6. Closed Sun. $$ (w+)
Austin
EL CHILE
Norteno Austinites are rejoicing now that El Chile has established a second outpost in the former Mesa Hills Cafe location. On our maiden visit, we noticed many customers from the toddler set--hipster families apparently live in the suburbs as well as close to downtown. Attractions include sitting on the small patio while sipping a spicy orange margarita, munching on a flaky chorizo-stuffed quesadilla (a tad greasy, but the chile-laced margarita cuts right through), and watching the sky turn pink at sunset. Happily, all this helps you ignore the glare of headlights from Oreystone. The crisp tortilla-crusted fried tilapia was steaming and moist inside, but the came asada was chewier than our jaws could take. Pop-art Frida paintings and bright red and yellow chairs match the energetic feel of the original location. Bar. 3435 Greystone Dr (512-284-7863). Open Mon-Sat 11-10, Sun 11-9. $$ (w+)
FOODHEADS
Set in a charming old bungalow in Central Austin, casual FoodHeads uses fresh and--when possible--local ingredients in strikingly creative ways. A blackberry balsamic vinaigrette, for instance, elevates a salami and mozzarella sandwich on toasted sourdough. The eatery also pays keen attention to detail; consider its specialty cucumber and tarragon mayonnaises, great homemade icebox pickles (sweet, sour, mustardy), garlicky coleslaw, and signature jalapeno relish. FoodHeads is aptly named; foodies will feel right at home here. 615 W. 34th (512-420-8400). Open Mon-Sat 8-4. Closed Sun. $$ (w+)
HOT MAMA'S ESPRESSO BAR
New
Warm evenings draw a crowd to the urban-rustic courtyard of this little espresso bar on the east side. We loved the trio of hummus, tabouleh, and couscous; the vibrant yellow hummus was rich and garlicky. The toasty Mediterranean Mama panino arrived packed with turkey, olives, and tomato and oozing with feta. The dollop of dill mayonnaise on top added a welcome tangy flavor. The cinnamon-rich iced chai tea was a smooth and refreshing libation. Beer & wine. 2401 E. 6th (512-476-6252). Open Mon-Wed 7-7, Thur & Fri 7-P, Sat 8-9. Closed Sun. $ (w)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Sometimes we forget how delightful an evening at this cozy cottage near Lake Travis can be. Lively discussions between friends and a delicious pinot noir set the mood for the tuna tartare with wasabi "avomole," pickled ginger pico, and lotus chips, which proved to be a brilliant commingling of flavors and textures. We gave high marks to the espresso-chocolate-chile-rubbed elk backstrap; this was our first encounter with the meat, and now we're smitten. Kudos to our waiter for recommending it. The Bubblin' Berry Cobbler was comfort food at the highest level. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1359). Dinner Sun-Thur 6-9, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (w+)
** JEFFREY'S
(Update)
Executive chef Alma Alcocer-Thomas wins big points for her use of local, seasonal ingredients at this upscale eatery tucked into an old Clarksville home. A case in point: her robust beet and cherry gazpacho tempered with creme fraiche and enlivened by a generous helping of Tasmanian crab. The duck ravioli neatly incorporates summer's fresh bounty (spinach, carrots, eggplant, squash) in a light white wine butter sauce. Added bonus: a chance to rub elbows with famous athletes, Hollywood divas, and Texas politicos. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $81 without wine) (w+)
LULU B'S
One of the latest additions to Austin's burgeoning population of mobile food trucks, little Lulu B's is tucked under a gracious live oak on South Lamar, where the shiny white trailer turns out a short list of affordable Vietnamese dishes. For a light lunch, sink your teeth into a fresh, crusty baguette layered with lemongrass pork or chicken. Or, for something cool, order the veggie-packed summer rolls; the accompanying peanut sauce alone is worth a visit. 2101 5. Lamar Blvd (512-921-4828). Open Tue-Fri 11:30-6, 5at 11:30-6:30. Closed Sun &Mon. $ (w)
PARKSIDE
You may need a decoder ring to understand the laconic, near-cryptic menu, but everything falls into place once the food arrives. Start with a few selections from the raw oyster bar; the Olde Salts oyster from Virginia was excellent on a recent visit. Steak and french fries seem to show up on a lot of menus these days, but chef Shawn Cirkiel serves a superb version here--he certainly makes excellent use of a potato. Warm doughnuts served in a small paper bag have never been so rewarding. The stripped-down decor lets the bones of the old commercial building speak for themselves. Bar. 301 E. 6th (512-474-9898). Dinner Sun-Wed 4-midnight, Thur-Sat 4-2 a.m. $$-$$$ (w+) Only the first floor.
STORTINI
It was easy to talk in Stortini's dining room, swathed in crimson wallpaper and illuminated by crystal chandeliers, since it was sparsely filled on a recent Tuesday night (the patio attracted a larger crowd). Consider starting with goat cheese blended with lemon zest and served with rosemary honey--it's almost a predinner dessert. Though you'll find standard Italian entrees, such as spaghetti bolognese, slightly more adventurous choices are the rigatoni with Parmesan meatballs and a spicy arrabbiatta sauce or the thin-crust pizza topped with house-made sausage, mushrooms, and roasted peppers. Bar. 1917 Manor Rd (512-391-9500). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 5-9 $$-$$$ (w+)
TEO
(Update)
We frequent this chic little gelato spot quite often; the creamy vanilla, made with real beans, is sublime. On hot summer days (aren't they all), this place is packed with excited kids anxiously awaiting cones or cups of their favorite flavor. Recently, we noshed on two stellar panini: the turkey with pesto and swiss and the prosciutto with sundried tomatoes and mozzarella. Do yourself a favor, though, and skip the pasta with sun-dried tomatoes; it tasted rather bland. 26 Doors shopping center, 1206 W. 38th (512-451-9555). Open Mon-Thur 7-11, Fri 7-midnight, Sat 8-midnight, Sun 8:30-10. $ (w+)
TOMO SUSHI
(New)
You'll find Sex on the Beach and Screaming Orgasms at this new bar in North Austin, but be advised: They're maki rolls, and the establishment is a neighborly sushi bar. We found the Ex-Girlfriend, topped with a layer of tempura-fried halibut, to be far more reliable than the name implied, and a simple plate of yellowtail sashimi topped with a slice of serrano pepper and a sprig of cilantro was a grownup departure from all the XXX rolls. Decor is sophisticated and spare, with black lacquered tables and a bar with river stones set in resin. Beer & wine. 4101 W. Parmer Ln (512-821-9472). Open Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30 & 5:30-10, Sat noon-10. Closed Sun. $$ (w)
UCHI
(Update)
We tried to get out of this glamour den for $40 a head but failed miserably. Who would want to disappoint the friendly, frenetic sushi chefs churning out masterful works of art? We kept things simple with an order of tempura Brie served with a drizzle of honey and salty-sweet potato chips; a Zero Sen roll (a blissful mix of yellowtail, avocado, and crispy shallot); and the hotate tataki, an exploration of flavors and textures featuring seared scallops, charred Meyer lemon curd, and bits of candied pork belly. A glass of wine and an order of deceptively tasty white-corn sherbet later, and the budget was blown! Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended (available until 7). $$-$$$ (w+)
VERDE'S MEXICAN PARRILLA
Talk about kid-friendly. This new spot southwest of the Hill Country Galleria (for the newbies) and the Backyard (for the old-timers) boasts a big, grassy play area perfect for expending the wee ones' energy. Out on the large patio (one side has tables and tall wooden chairs, the other sofas and ample chairs for lounging about), we inhaled the warm summer air while noshing on bright-green chips and fresh salsa. An appetizer of fish tacos proved tasty--and huge. The bacon-wrapped quail stuffed with queso fresco was fine but not wow-worthy. Bar. 26028 Hamilton Pool Rd (512-263-0500). Open Tue-Fri 4-10, Sat 3-10, Sun 3-9. Closed Mon. $$-$$$ (w+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
ROBERT'S STEAKHOUSE
Murals of bluebonnets, cowboys, and Longhorns, along with service that makes you feel like one of the family, set the mood for this busy steakhouse. A bowl of the hearty, mildly seasoned chicken-and-sausage gumbo is a good place to start. As for the main event, choose from classic cuts of beef, including ribeyes, T-bones, and filets, and have them grilled to your liking; we were pleasantly surprised by the smoky flavor of the meat. After you finish your meal, pop in to the adjoining meat market and pick up some prime cuts to take back to your own kitchen. Beer & wine. 3720 W. Park Ave, Orange (409-883-8955). Open Mon-Thur 10:30-9, Fri & Sat 10:30-10, Sun 11-6. $$ (w+)
Corpus Christi
DRAGONFLY
We never fail to ooh and aah over chef Dominique Cordier's variety of dishes at this tiny, cheerful place on North Padre Island: broiled trout served with skewers of plump shrimp, a vegetarian platter of grilled vegetables and featherlight potato puffs, crab cakes that transport us to the East Coast. A meal here is well worth the trip across the causeway. Beer & wine. 13925 S. Padre Island Dr (361-949-2224). Open Tue-Thur 11-2 & 4-9, Fri 11-2 & 4-9:30, Sat 11-9:30. Closed Sun & Mon. $$-$$$ (w)
LUCIANO'S
For many decades before his retirement, Joe Luciano cultivated a loyal following for his Six Points family restaurant with his warm hospitality and dependable Italian dishes. Now his grandson carries the torch, having revived the name and recipes at a nearby location. We found notable among the old standards the baked lasagne, the stracciatella soup with spinach and Parmesan, and the generous antipasti platter of meats, cheeses, peppers, and olives. Beer & wine. 2821 S. Alameda (361-882-3191). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:15-1:45. Dinner Mon-Sat 5:15-9:45. Closed Bun. $$ (w+)
PELICAN CLUB
Port A's Pelican Club is run by a cadre of veterans from the late, lamented Beulah's. Happily, the variety of seafood here is staggering and the red meat offerings serious. Out on the covered deck, we watched returning fishing boats, listened to laughing gulls, and feasted on two superb specials: a whole fried red snapper served with a Caribbean-inspired sauce of ginger, garlic, tomatoes, and red peppers and a grouper filet glazed with soy and served on a bed of sauteed bok choy, crisp snap peas, and mushrooms. Bar. 914 Tarpon, Port Aransas (361-749-4888). Dinner Wed & Thur 5:30-10, Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5-10. Closed Mon & Tue. $$$ (w+)
SHELL'S PASTA AND SEAFOOD
(Update)
The extensive list of blackboard specials made choosing difficult, but after an appetizer of roasted garlic with toasted focaccia, we settled on the blue-crab cake with aioli (sublime). Our companion praised the tuna taco: rare tuna wrapped in corn tortillas and topped with avocado, shredded red onion, and a black-bean-and-diced-tomato garnish. The delicately flavored Key lime pie was superfluous but disappeared nonetheless. Beer & wine. 522 E. A venue G, Port Aransas (361-749-7621). Open 7 days 11-2 & 5-9 (sometimes till 10 on Fri & Sat). $-$$$ (w)
VENETIAN HOT PLATE
(Update)
An antipasti platter of shrimp, clams, scallops, and mussels on a sizzling iron skillet (the "hot plate") set the mood at this extremely popular spot. Our culinary feast continued: Both the spicy gamberetti al limone (grilled Gulf shrimp in a butter sauce with lemon, parsley, and red pepper) and the grilled paprika snapper with avocado cream elicited raves. The bread pudding was also worthy of praise; the sorbet proved a bit icy. Beer & wine. 232 Beach Ave, Port Aransas (361-749-7617). Open Tue-Sat 11:30-1:30 & 5-10. Closed Bun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ (w)Call ahead.
YARDARM
As usual, we started with the spicy gazpacho, then tried the broiled whole fresh flounder and the snapper in caper sauce. Both were paired with couscous dotted with white raisins and a blend of tomatoes and zucchini sauteed with lemon and tarragon. We ended our fine meal mesmerized by the softly fading twilight on the bay, followed by the sparkle of reflected lights. Bar. 4310 Ocean Dr (351-855-8157). Dinner TueSat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mort. Reservations highly recommended. $$-$$$ (w)
Dallas
** AURORA
(Update)
Chef Avner Samuel has turned his considerable skills to locally sourced ingredients, making his gem of a restaurant even more enticing. Tomatoes from nearby Canton, along with microdiced cucumbers and chives, combined to make the best gazpacho we've ever had; a cylinder of avocado and tuna tartare was the soup's centerpiece. Medallions of crispy-skinned, pink duck breast were accompanied by a bounty of fresh beans and peas, each with the satisfying snap of a perfectly cooked vegetable. Bar. 4216 Oak Lawn Ave (214-528-9400). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Men-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. $$$$ (w)
BABE'S CHICKEN DINNER HOUSE
Just in time for families...
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