|
Article Excerpt
Amarillo
BOOT HILL
A location on Old Route 66, some forty miles west of Amarillo. Folks dressed as dance hall girls and cowboys. Tin and wood and red velvet. You'll think you've walked onto a movie set. But Rory Schepisi, of Next Food Network Star fame, is in the back manning the cast iron, and there's nothing make-believe about the food. Start right in with a Black Angus burger with provolone and sauteed mushrooms, and request a side of sweet potato fries. The twelve-ounce New York strip (we ordered ours rare) will satisfy the most critical steak eater, while the flaky pan-seared mahimahi will please the piscivore. Bar. 909 Vega Blvd (I-40 Business), Vega (805-267-2g04). Open Sun-Thur 11:30-10, Fri & Sat 11:30-11. $$ (W+)
OUTLAWS SUPPER CLUB
(Update)
If you're looking to satisfy your inner cowboy, this world-class Texas steakhouse is the real thing: It has the best steak in Amarillo, if not Texas. The prime rib is big, rare, and wonderful but also in short supply, so get there early. There's chicken-fried steak and catfish too, all served with a chilled salad topped with homemade dressing and your choice of piping-hot hand-cut fries or a baked potato. This no-frills spot is way east; if you find yourself thinking you've gone too far, just keep going. Bar. 10816 E. 3rd Ave (806-335-1032). Open Wed & Thur 11-9, Fri 11-9.'30, Sat 4-9:30. Closed Sun-Tue. $-$$ (W+)
VILLAGE BAKERY CAFE
This casual bistro sets the standard for relaxed neighborhood dining. Daily specials might include a salad with a creamy strawberry dressing and glazed pecans or spicy meat loaf paired with one of the freshly baked artisan breads. The Saturday morning French toast is delectable (forget the calories), and the bread pudding dreamy (ask for extra vanilla sauce). Consider placing an order for a green-chile cheese ball to go; topped with pine nuts and served with the bakery's plain lavash, it's a great hers d'oeuvre to share with friends later. Wolflin Village shopping center, 2606 W. 22nd (806-358-1358). Open Mon-Sat 7-6. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
Austin
EL CHILE
(New)
Norteno Austinites are rejoicing now that El Chile has established a second outpost in the former Mesa Hills Cafe location. On our maiden visit, we noticed many customers from the toddler set--hipster families apparently live in the suburbs as well as close to downtown. Attractions include sitting on the small patio while sipping a spicy orange margarita, munching on a flaky chorizo-stuffed quesadilla (a tad greasy, but the chile-laced margarita cuts right through), and watching the sky turn pink at sunset. Happily, all this helps you ignore the glare of headlights from Greystone. The crisp tortilla-crusted fried tilapia was steaming and moist inside, but the carne asada was chewier than our jaws could take. Pop-art Frida paintings and bright red and yellow chairs match the energetic feel of the original location. Bar. 3435 Greystone Dr (512-284-7863). Open Men-Sat 11-10, Sun 11-9. $$ (W+)
FOODHEADS
(New)
Set in a charming old bungalow in Central Austin, casual FoodHeads uses fresh and--when possible--local ingredients in strikingly creative ways. A blackberry balsamic vinaigrette, for instance, elevates a salami and mozzarella sandwich on toasted sourdough. The eatery also pays keen attention to detail; consider its specialty cucumber and tarragon mayonnaises, great homemade icebox pickles (sweet, sour, mustardy), garlicky coleslaw, and signature jalapeno relish. FoodHeads is aptly named; foodies will feel right at home here. 616 W. 34th (512-420-8400). Open Mon-Sat 8-4. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
* HUDSONS ON THE BEND
(Update)
Sometimes we forget how delightful an evening at this cozy cottage near Lake Travis can be. Lively discussions between friends and a delicious pinot noir set the mood for the tuna tartare with wasabi "avomole," pickled ginger pico, and lotus chips, which proved to be a brilliant comingling of flavors and textures. We gave high marks to the espresso-chocolate-chile-rubbed elk backstrap; this was our first encounter with the meat, and now we're smitten. Kudos to our waiter for recommending it. The Bubblin' Berry Cobbler was comfort food at the highest level. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
How do we love thee? Let's count the ways. First, the room is never too noisy to hear one's dinner companions coo over a perfectly composed salad of tuna tartare, minuscule shiitakes, and lilliputian white asparagus. Second, the entrees meld many of our favorite things, like a prosciutto-wrapped ahi tuna filet and plump mussels in a saffron orange sauce (with lemony pasta in between). Third, the desserts are decadent but not too rich, a case in point being the strawberry ice cream, with just enough creme fraiche to cut through the sugar. All of these keep us lingering in the cozy restored house with its bright art and gracious service. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $76 without wine) (W+)
KIM SON
The grand pooh-bah of Houston's Vietnamese restaurants has come to River City. The main dining room, decked out with dark-wood booths, might be the toniest place in town to slurp pho. But we felt compelled to start with crispy anise-scented fried Cornish hen served with chewy disks of sticky rice. Immediately, we started to swoon. Our next dish was perfectly fine--delicate cha gio rolls with carrot-and-pepper-lecked nuoc mare--but it just didn't compare. Weekend dim sum (part buffet, part cart service), makes a fun alternative to brunch. Bar. Chinatown Center, 10901 N. Lamar Blvd (512-832-0500). Open Mon-Fri 11-2:30 & 5-10, Sat & Sun 11-1(1 $-$$
LULU B'S
(New)
One of the latest additions to Austin's burgeoning population of mobile food trucks, little Lulu B's is tucked under a gracious live oak on South Lamar, where the shiny white trailer turns out a short list of affordable Vietnamese dishes. For a light lunch, sink your teeth into a fresh, crusty baguette layered with lemongrass pork or chicken. Or, for something cool, order the veggie-packed summer rolls, the accompanying peanut sauce alone is worth a visit. 2101 S. Lamar Blvd (512-921-4828). Open Tue-Fri 11:30-5, Sat 11.'30-6.'30. Closed Sun & Mort. $ (W+)
PARKSIDE
(Update)
You may need a decoder ring to understand the laconic, near-cryptic menu, but everything falls into place once the food arrives. Start with a few selections from the raw oyster bar; the Olde Salts oyster from Virginia was excellent on a recent visit. Steak and french fries seem to show up on a lot of menus these days, but chef Shawn Cirkiel serves a superb version here--he certainly makes excellent use of a potato. Warm doughnuts served in a small paper bag have never been so rewarding. The stripped-down decor lets the bones of the old commercial building speak for themselves. Bar. 301 E. 6th (512-474-9898). Dinner Sun-Wed 4-midnight, Thur-Sat 4-2 a.m. $$-$$$ (W+) Only the first floor.
STORTINI
It was easy to talk in Stortini's dining room, swathed in crimson wallpaper and illuminated by crystal chandeliers, since it was sparsely filled on a recent Tuesday night (the patio attracted a larger crowd). Consider starting with goat cheese blended with lemon zest and served with rosemary honey--it's almost a pre-dinner dessert. Though you'll find standard Italian entrees, such as spaghetti bolognese, slightly more adventurous choices are the rigateni with Parmesan meatballs and a spicy arrabbiatta sauce or the thin-crust pizza topped with house-made sausage, mushrooms, and roasted peppers. Bar. 1917 Manor Rd (512-391-9500). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 5-9. $$-$$$ (W+)
TASTE
A mixed-use development goes down well when it includes a wine bar that overlooks Lady Bird Lake, Watch joggers puff and sweat as you swirl glasses of wine from the "dispensing fountain." We found a glass of cava to be perfect with the ahi tuna topped with preserved Meyer lemon and tarragon, while a Bordeaux was just right with silky veal cheeks in a tomato-anchovy sauce. A cheese plate held some delicious pairings, including Gorgonzola dolce with kumquat chutney. Panini and salads are available for lunch. Crisp, clean lines in a light-filled space fit the "new urbanist" aesthetics. Wine. 202 W. Cesar Chavez (512-478-2782). Open Mon-Thur 10 a.m.-midnight, Fri & Sat 10-1 a.m., Sun noon-9. $-$$$ (W+)
THANH NHI
Have no reservations and channel your inner Tony Bourdain for a trek up North Lamar. Your destination is this tiny Vietnamese spot set between a halal shop and a Mexican cafe. The decor is strip-mall spare, but the effusive service compensates. Tuck into the banh mi, crispy rolls layered with your choice of grilled pork or creamy pate. Jazzed up with jalapeno and pickled radish, they're less than two bucks a piece. Noodle bowls are good, but the stellar goi cuon nero nuong (spring rolls with shrimp, pork, and fresh mint) and cha gio (tiny fried spring rolls) make us want to pinch ourselves. Are we still inside the city limits? BYOB. 9200 N. Lamar Blvd (512-834-1736). Open Tue-Sun 9-9. Closed Mon. $ (W+)
** UCHI
Consider one of his chef Tyson Cole's imaginative signature dishes at what many consider Austin's best--certainly its most high-profile--restaurant: velvety maguro sashimi punctuated with dollops of goat cheese and garnished with thinly sliced Fuji apples. Or imagine the playfulness of the Pitchfork, a Waygu beef and fresh avocado sushi roll bespeckled with land caviar (tonburi seeds). Uchi's pastry chef, Phillip Speer, is just as lively with his dessert creations--peanut butter semifreddo with an apple-miso sorbet, anyone? This is high-spirited dining at its best, in a classy setting. Beer, wine, & sake. 802 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended (available until 7). $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
It's a treat to bring first-timers to this buzzing Italian bistro; just watch their eyes light up at the first bite of the gratis white-bean dip enriched with basil and olive oils. Entrees on our visit were as good as any we've had here. A pan-seared halibut filet resting atop plump gnocchi in a beurre blanc with thick lumps of crab wowed us, as did the crispy prosciutto-wrapped prawns. Warm zeppole tasted heavenly dusted with cinnamon and sugar and served with vanilla ice cream. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-10, Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended (available until 6:30 except Fri & Sat). $$-$$$ (W+)
VERDE'S MEXICAN PARRILLA
Talk about kid-friendly. This new spot southwest of the Hill Country Galleria (for the newbies) and the Backyard (for the old-timers) boasts a big, grassy play area perfect for expending the wee ones' energy. Out on the large patio (one side has tables and tall wooden chairs, the other sofas and ample chairs for lounging about), we inhaled the warm summer air while noshing on bright-green chips and fresh salsa. An appetizer of fish tacos proved tasty--and huge. The bacon-wrapped quail stuffed with queso fresco was fine but not wow-worthy. Bar. 16018 Hamilton Pool Rd (512-263-0500). Open Tue-Fri 4-10, Sat 3-10, Sun 3-9. Closed Mon. $$-$$$
Beaumont-Port Arthur
FLOYD'S CAJUN SEAFOOD & TEXAS STEAKHOUSE
On a recent lunchtime outing, we enjoyed a hefty helping of zesty chicken-and-sausage jambalaya. Steamed green and red pepper, squash, and zucchini are served alongside, but we recommend you mix it all together. Reckon we'll try the steaks next time; some patrons at a nearby table raved about their ribeye. Bar. 2290 1-10S (409-842-0685). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $-$$ (W+)
POBLANO GRILL
It had been a while since we'd dined at this spot, and we weren't sure what to expect. We noted a few things right off: The tired interior needs refurbishing, the servers could use additional training, and some of the dishes (bland lamb lollipops and tough achiote chicken) need fine-tuning. That said, we were delighted with a star from the new tapas menu, skewered tenderloin with a spicy cilantro pesto, and two of the soups-the rich crab chowder and the creamy, fiery poblano. Bar. 3350 Dowlen Rd (409-850-0055). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 10:30-9. $$ (W+)
ROBERT'S MEAT MARKET & STEAKHOUSE
(Update)
Murals of bluebonnets, cowboys, and Longhorns, along with service that makes you feel like one of the family, set the mood for this busy steakhouse. A bowl of the hearty, mildly seasoned chicken-and-sausage gumbo is a good place to start. As for the main event, choose from classic cuts of beef, including ribeyes, T-bones, and filets, and have them grilled to your liking; we were pleasantly surprised by the smoky flavor of the meat. After you finish your meal, pop in to the adjoining meat market and pick up some prime cuts to take back to your own kitchen. Beer & wine. 3720 W. Park Ave, Orange (409-883-8955). Open Mon-Sat 10-9, Sun 11-5. $$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
DRAGONFLY
We never fail to ooh and aah over chef Dominique Cordier's variety of dishes at this tiny, cheerful place on North Padre Island: broiled trout served with skewers of plump shrimp, a vegetarian platter of grilled vegetables and featherlight potato puffs, crab cakes that transport us to the East Coast. A meal here is well worth the trip across the causeway. Beer & wine. 13925 S. Padre Island Dr (351-949-2224). Open Tue-Thur 11-2 & 4-9, Fri 11-2 & 4-9:30, Sat 11-9:30. Closed Sun & Mon. $$-$$$ (W)
LUCIANO'S
(Update)
For many decades before his retirement, Joe Luciano cultivated a loyal following for his Six Points family restaurant with his warm hospitality and dependable Italian dishes. Now his grandson carries the torch, having revived the name and recipes at a nearby location. We found notable among the old standards the baked lasagne, the stracciatella soup with spinach and Parmesan, and the generous antipasti platter of meats, cheeses, peppers, and olives. Beer & wine. 1821 S. Alameda (351-882-3191). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:15-1:45. Dinner Mon-Sat 5:15-9:45. closed Sun. $$ (W+)
MAMMA MIA'S
On our recent return to a downtown favorite, owner Marino Delzotto seated us at the table nearest the range, where we could watch brother Gianni work his magic. We shared a Caesar salad, which was as good as we could have hoped for, then feasted on pan-seared salmon and a memorable special of linguine with billiard-ball-size veal meatballs and homemade marinara. Our gustatory enthusiasm, helped along by the generous servings, left no room for dessert. Beer & wine. 128 N. Mesquite (351-883-3773). Dinner Tue-Sat 5-until close (call). Closed Sun & Mon. $$-$$$ Cash or check only. (W)
PELICAN CLUB
(Update)
Port A's Pelican Club is run by a cadre of veterans from the highly regarded, now closed Beulah's, whose lofty culinary standards earned it a permanent spot in the hearts of local diners. Happily, the variety of seafood here is staggering and the red meat offerings serious. Out on the covered deck, we watched returning fishing boats, listened to laughing gulls, and feasted on two superb specials: a whole fried red snapper served with a Caribbean-inspired sauce of ginger, garlic, tomatoes, and red peppers and a grouper filet glazed with soy and served on a bed of sauteed bok choy, crisp snap peas, and mushrooms. Bar. 914 Tarpon, Port Aransas (351-749-4888). Dinner Sun & Wed-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Mon & Tue. $$$ (W+)
SUSHIBAR
Curiosity led us to heed the word-of-mouth buzz and make our way to a small strip center near the entrance to the county park on Padre Island. Although we were dismayed by the loud music and indifferent service, we were impressed with the fresh sushi. Selections are served...
|
