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Article Excerpt
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Filter : Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers" identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter. Dining, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
Amarillo
BOOT HILL
(Update) A location on Old Route 66, some forty miles west of Amarillo. Folks dressed as dance hall girls and cowboys. Tin and wood and red velvet. You'll think you've walked onto a movie set. But Rory Schepisi, of Next Food Network Star fame, is in the back manning the cast iron, and there's nothing make-believe about the food. Start right in with a Black Angus burger with provolone and sauteed mushrooms, and request a side of sweet potato fries. The twelve-ounce New York strip (we ordered ours rare) will satisfy the most critical steak eater, while the flaky pan-seared mahimahi will please the piscivore. Bar. 909 Vega Blvd (1-40 Business), Vega (805-267-2904). Open 7 days 11:30-close (call). $$ (W+)
JORGE'S MEXICAN BAR & GRILL
The service at this casual Tex-Mex spot is friendly and the food consistently satisfying. The appetizer sampler is a fun way to get a taste of plump cheese quesadillas, crunchy chicken-filled flautas, and a bean tostada hidden beneath a pile of nachos. For your entree, may we recommend the chicken chile relleno, paired with salsa verde and drizzled with creamy yellow and white cheeses. Bar. 5807 W, 45th Ave (806-354-2241). Open Mon-Thur 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10.'30, Sun 11-3. $ (W+)
ZEN 721
Treat yourself to a meal at this smart downtown spot. We can't resist the spicy mango rolls and the seared ahi tuna with tomato ceviche. Our friend sampled the fish tacos--tilapia stuffed in extra-soft flour tortillas with tasty wonton chips on the side. Do yourself a favor and save a little space for the chocolate souffle cake. Bar. 614 S. Polk (805-372-1909). Lunch Tue-Fri 11-1:45. Dinner Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Closed Sun & Mon. $$ (W+)
Austin
AQUARELLE
Sitting demurely next to the bling-y bars and lounges of West Sixth, this classy cottage beckons like an heirloom cameo. A graciously served dinner started with a creamy leek and fennel tart. Cubes of sea bass, each topped with a poached oyster and floating in a Muscadet-sweetened sauce, outshone the lobster, which suffered from a batter better suited for carnival fare. We requested an espresso spoon to extricate every bit of licorice ice cream that accompanied the clementine entremets. Beer & wine. 606 W. Rio Grande (512-479-8117). Dinner Tue-Thur 6-9, Fri & Sat 6-10. Closed Sun &Mon. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
* DRISKILL GRILL
A seat along the back wall of this stately dining room is prime for watching the white-coated servers move through the room in a sort of elegant dance. We were dazzled by a creamy lobster crepe atop a wonderful tangle of Bibb lettuce with shaved radishes and lumps of lobster tucked inside. Short ribs proved succulent but were outshone by tender medallions of antelope tenderloin on a bed of braised red cabbage. Clearly whoever replaces the departing Josh Watkins will have some big shoes to fill. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
GIOVANNI'S PIZZA STAND
(NEW) If you shouldn't judge a book by its cover, you shouldn't (pre)judge Italian food that comes from a trailer in a gas station parking lot. Julio Rangel, a former cook at Austin's gone-but-not-forgotten Mezzaluna, makes simple but exceptional pizzas using a tiny oven, and he cooks made-to-order pasta entrees on a four-burner stove top. The margherita pizza, with its crisp, thin crust and garden-picked basil, is impossible to save until you get home; you'll end up eating it in the car. Ditto the rich penne arrabiata with a creamy chipotle-spiked sauce. 2900-B 5. Lamar (512-656-7033). Dinner 7 days 5-10. $ Cash or check only. (W+)
GROVE WINE BAR & KITCHEN
A welcome addition to West Lake, the Grove offers an inviting indoor-outdoor space to sip wine and nosh. Nibble on a salad such as the sesame-seasoned seared ahi tuna, studded with orange wedges, avocado, and wonton crisps. Or pair one of dozens of reasonably priced wines with a prosciutto-and-salami panini slathered with sun-dried-tomato pesto. Take heed: The house-made potato chips are addictive. Beer & wine. 6317 Bee Caves Rd (512-327-8822). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $-$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Every flavor, assertive or subtle, deserves your attention at this much-loved restaurant in a cottage outside Austin. Take, for instance, the tender sea scallops, boldly wrapped in venison prosciutto, topped with American sturgeon caviar, and served with a soy yuzu sauce. If you're a fan of heat and texture, don't miss chef Jeff Blank's corn-flake-crunchy shrimp, trout, and avocado atop his signature mango-jalapeno aioli. And, of course, Hudson's is one of Austin's all-time best sources of surf and turf, like open-fire-grilled prime tenderloin topped with a lobster tail doused in herb butter. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-i369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
(Update) How do we love thee? Let's count the ways. First, the room is never too noisy to hear one's dinner companions coo over a perfectly composed salad of tuna tartare, minuscule shiitakes, and lilliputian white asparagus. Second, the entrees meld many of our favorite things, like a prosciutto-wrapped ahi tuna filet and plump mussels in a saffron orange sauce (with lemony pasta in between). Third, the desserts are decadent but not too rich, a case in point being the strawberry ice cream, with just enough creme fraiche to cut through the sugar. All of these keep us lingering in the cozy restored house with its bright art and gracious service. The passion is renewed. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $76) (W+)
MARS
(Update) The spacious outdoor deck beneath a canopy of oaks is ultracool: We love the view of downtown and watching hipsters strolling through SoCo. Our meal wasn't as spectacular, at least not at first. Our pinot noir arrived in a cloudy wineglass; a napoleon of goat cheese, portobellos, and crisp malanga root chips lacked oomph; and a house salad tasted a bit musty. But our entree, the mixed tandoori grill, moved us: The Wagyu beef was succulent, the pork tenderloin (marinated in soy and sake) flavorful, and the duck a l'orange like velvet. Bar. 1400 5. Congress Ave (512-472-3901). Open Sun &Mon 11-10, Tue & Wed 11-10:30, Thur-Sat 11-11. $$ (W+)
NINO'S PIZZA
(New) Fans of New York-style pizza will have to travel far from the city center to appease their Big Apple cravings. Cheesy by-the-slice pies are sold daily from a little strip mall location on the northwest side of town. From the light Italian seasonings to the crispy-thin pepperoni that crackles as you fold your slice in half, Nino's delivers on authenticity. Not fanatic about New York pie? Try a spinach and tomato calzone. Anderson Mill shopping center, 13776 Research Bird (512-432-5997). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun noon-8 $ (W+)
KIM SON
(New) The grand pooh-bah of Houston's Vietnamese restaurants has come to River City. The main dining room, decked out with dark-wood booths, might be the toniest place in town to slurp pho. But we felt compelled to start with crispy anise-scented fried Cornish hen served with chewy disks of sticky rice. Immediately, we started to swoon. Our next two dishes were perfectly fine--both the delicate cha gio rolls with carrot-and-pepper-flecked nuoc mare and the rice plate piled with fried pork chops, tripe, shredded pork, and a fried egg--but they just didn't compare. Weekend dim sum, with its offerings of overstuffed shumai dumplings and trays of clams in black bean sauce (part buffet, part cart service), makes a fun alternative to brunch. Bar. Chinatown Center, 10901 N. Lamar Blvd (512-832-0500). Open Mort-Sun 11-10. Dim sum Sat & Sun 11-2. $-$$ (W+)
PARKSIDE
Quit asking questions like "Where's the park?" Focus instead on the fact that Shawn Cirkiel, formerly jefe of the stellar Jean-Luc's Bistro, is back in business. The menu at this sophisticated but spare restaurant meanders like an elementary-school composition, yet we found things to love on the long list of daily specials. A raw platter held chunks of barely steamed lobster, peekytoe crab, and slices of scallop balanced by crunchy apple slivers. Beef marrow on toast was equally indulgent. Only the overhyped butter-basted chicken failed to earn high marks. Minimalist decor lends a fresh look to the historic brick-walled building. Bar. 301 E. 6th (512-474-9898). Open Sun-Wed 3:30-midnight, Thur-Sat 3:30-3:30 a.m. $$-$$$ (W+)
RISTORANTE BELLISSIMO
We're not sure about the decor--bamboo accents alongside photos of Bill Clinton and George W. Bush on the wall--but we're positive this small downtown spot is producing some of the best Italian food in Austin. Our repast began with a superb tower of fresh, cool mozzarella, tomato, and basil. We then turned our attention to the linguine Cleopatra-shrimp, scallops, lobster, and mushrooms tossed with pasta in a light tomato cream sauce. Impeccable. Our companion declared his involtini di vitello--veal stuffed with prosciutto, asparagus, and fontina--exceptional. Who were we to disagree? Gratis coffee validated our high opinion of our waiter. Bar. 107 W. 5th (512-391-1881). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ (W+)
TASTE
(New) A mixed-use development goes down well when it includes a wine bar that overlooks Lady Bird Lake. Watch joggers puff and sweat as you swirl glasses of wine from the "dispensing fountain." We found a glass of cava to be perfect with the ahi tuna topped with preserved Meyer lemon and tarragon, while a Bordeaux was just right with silky veal cheeks in a tomato-anchovy sauce. A cheese plate held some delicious pairings, including Gorgonzola dolce with kumquat chutney. Panini and salads are available for lunch; just make sure your boss doesn't see you sneak a bottle from Taste's wine shop back to your desk. Crisp, clean lines in a light-filled space fit the "new urbanist" aesthetics. Wine. 202 W. Cesar Chavez (512-478-2783). Open Mon- Thur 10 a.m.-midnight, Fri & Sat 10 a.m.-1 a.m., Sun noon-9 p.m. $-$$$ (W+)
THANH NHI
(New) Have no reservations and channel your inner Tony Bourdain for a trek up North Lamar. Your destination is this tiny Vietnamese spot set between a halal shop and a Mexican cafe. The decor is strip-mall spare, but the effusive service compensates. Tuck into the banh mi, crispy rolls layered with your choice of grilled pork or creamy pate Jazzed up with jalapeno and pickled radish, they're less than two bucks apiece. Noodle bowls are good, but the stellar goi cuon nero nuong (spring rolls with shrimp, pork, and fresh mint) and cha gio (tiny fried spring rolls) make us want to pinch ourselves. Are we still inside the city limits? BYOB. 9200 N. Lamar Blvd (512-834-1736). Open Tue-Sun 10-9. Closed Mon. $
** UCHI
(Update) He may have recently lost to Morimoto on Iron Chef America, but Tyson Cole is still number one with Austin diners, is it any wonder? Consider one of his signature dishes: velvety maguro sashimi punctuated with dollops of goat cheese and garnished with thinly sliced Fuji apples. Or imagine the playfulness of the Pitchfork, a Waygu beef and fresh avocado sushi roll bespeckled with land caviar (tonburi seeds). Uchi's pastry chef, Phillip Speer, is just as lively with his dessert creations--peanut butter semifreddo with an apple-miso sorbet, anyone? This is high-spirited dining at its best, in a classy setting. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ (W+)
* Vespalo.
It's a treat to bring first-timers to this buzzing Italian bistro; just watch their eyes light up at the first bite of the gratis white-bean dip enriched with basil and olive oils. Entrees on our visit were as good as any we've had here. A pan-seared halibut filet resting atop plump gnocchi in a beurre blanc with thick lumps of crab wowed us, as did the crispy prosciutto-wrapped prawns. Warm zeppole tasted heavenly dusted with cinnamon and sugar and served with vanilla ice cream. Bar. 1510 S. Congress Ave (512-441-7572). Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-10, Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30. Brunch Sun 10-3. $S-$$$ (W+)
VINO VINO
This jazzy, low-lit Hyde Park-area wine bar has sophistication without pretension. The walls of the long, narrow room display an impressive selection of wine organized by color and weight--white to red, light to robust--reasonably priced by the bottle or by the glass. The concise menu includes charcuterie, salads, and sandwiches. We especially liked the tender carpaccio with capers and a drizzle of olive oil and the creamy tuna tartare. The cheese plates vary almost daily. Wine. 4119 Guadalupe (512-465-9282). Open Mon-Sat 11-midnight, Sun 3-10. $$ (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
FLOYD'S CAJUN SEAFOOD & TEXAS STEAKHOUSE
(Update) On a recent lunchtime outing, we enjoyed a hefty helping of zesty chicken-and-sausage jambalaya. Steamed green and red pepper, squash, and zucchini are served alongside, but we recommend you mix it all together. Reckon we'll try the steaks next time; some patrons at a nearby table raved about their ribeye. Bar. 2290 I-10S (409-842-0686). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $-$$ (W+)
POBLANO GRILL
(Update) It had been a while since we'd dined at this spot, and we weren't sure what to expect. We noted a few things right off: The tired interior needs refurbishing, the servers could use additional training, and some of the dishes (bland lamb lollipops and tough achiote chicken) need fine-tuning. That said, we were delighted with a star from the new tapas menu, skewered tenderloin with a spicy cilantro pesto, and two of the soups--the rich crab chowder and the creamy, fiery poblano. Bar. 3350 Dowlen Rd (409-850-0055). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 10:30-9. $3 (W)
Corpus Christi
CAFE AEBY
Chef Chris Aeby delivers a well-rounded, wholly satisfying meal inspired by flavors both subtle and bold. Smooth butternut squash soup set the tone for poached salmon on a bed of paper-thin sliced cucumbers, while a roasted beet salad enlivened with candied walnuts and Gorgonzola was a fitting prelude for the aptly named "Flintstone" veal chop; resting atop a bed of navy beans and spinach, it was properly seared outside and medium-rare on the inside. Bar. The Village, 3815 S. Alameda (351-225-0329). Open Tue-Bat 11-2 & 5:30-9:30. Closed Sun & Mon. $$-$$$ (W)
DOBSON CAFE
This lunch mecca is in a class by itself, deserving accolades for the view (an intimate close-up of seaport traffic), the space (housed in a Legorreta-designed gallery), and the food. While away an afternoon...
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