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Article Excerpt
The Filter: Dining
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Filter: Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter: Dining, Box 1569, Austin Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** stars designate a superlative restaurant. ** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant. * One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
All listed restaurants accept ms jot credit cards unless otherwise noted. Prices represent atypical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12 $$ $12-$30 $$$ $31-$45 $$$$ More than $45
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Amarillo
JORGE'S MEXICAN BAR & GRILL
(Update) The service at this casual Tex-Mex spot is friendly and the food consistently satisfying. The appetizer sampler is a fun way to get a taste of plump cheese quesadillas, crunchy chicken-filled flautas, and a bean tostada hidden beneath a pile of nachos. For your entree, may we recommend the chicken chile relleno, paired with salsa verde and drizzled with creamy yellow and white cheeses. Bar. 5807 W. 45th Ave (806-354-2241). Open Mon-Thur 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10:30, Sun 11-3. $ (W+)
SCOTT'S OYSTER BAR
This is as close to the coast as you are going to get in the North Country. If your idea of heaven is straight-forward seafaring classics, try the oysters freshly shucked or fried, tender and delicious. If you love shrimp, get half of them boiled and half of them fried. And make sure to check out the specials. You may be lucky enough to arrive on the day that they're serving Cajun stuffed peppers or shrimp creole. Beer. 4150 Paramount Bird (806-354-9110). Open Mon 5-9, Tue-Sat 11:30-9. Closed Sun. $ (W+)
ZEN 721
Treat yourself to a meal at this smart downtown spot. We can't resist the spicy mango rolls and the seared ahi tuna with tomato ceviche. Our friend sampled the fish tacos--tilapia stuffed in extra-soft flour tortillas with tasty wonton chips on the side. Do yourself a favor and save a little space for the chocolate souffle cake. Bar. 614 5. Polk (805-372-1909). Lunch Tue-Fri 11-1:45. Dinner Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun & Mon, $$ (W+)
Austin
AQUARELLE
Sitting demurely next to the bling-y bars and lounges of West Sixth, this classy cottage beckons like an heirloom cameo. A graciously served dinner started with a creamy leek and fennel tart. Cubes of sea bass, each topped with a poached oyster and floating in a Muscadet-sweetened sauce, outshone the lobster, which suffered from a batter better suited for carnival fare. We requested an espresso spoon to extricate every bit of licorice ice cream that accompanied the clementine entremets. Beer & wine. 606 W. Rio Grande (512-479-8117). Dinner Tue-Thur 6-9, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun &Mon. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
* DRISKILL GRILL
(Update) A seat along the back wall of this stately dining room is prime for watching the white coated servers move through the room in a sort of elegant dance. We were dazzled by a creamy lobster crepe atop a wonderful tangle of Bibb lettuce with shaved radishes and lumps of lobster tucked inside. Short ribs proved succulent but were outshone by tender medallions of antelope tenderloin on a bed of braised red cabbage. We rounded out the evening with the gooey hazelnut crunch--think pumped-up Heath bar. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EAST SIDE PIES
New and old East Austin converge at this pizza shop, where dreadlocked BMX riders and middle-class families cross paths. The crackery crusts come heaped with toppings, including, for the daring, sauerkraut and Lit'l Smokies. The Guiche, a vegetarian's dream, is layered with spinach, goat cheese, and sun-dried tomatoes, while the SMORS is just that: sausage, mushroom, onions, red pimientos, and spinach. There's a nice patio, but the concrete table out front affords the best people-watching BYOB. 1401 Rosewood Ave (512-524-0933). Open Mon 4-10, Tue-Thur noon-10, Fri & Sat noon-midnight, Sun noon-10. $
EL GRECO
It's a family affair at El Greco. Nearly every menu item at Austin's newest Greek eatery stems from a family recipe. The zucchini stuffed with a savory blend of rice, beef, and Greek spices? The owner's sister makes it. The aromatic eggplant full of sauteed onions, garlic, bell peppers, and parsley? That recipe comes from the owner's wife. The tarama, or Greek caviar dip, is salty and fetching, as is the hummus, chock-full of whole fresh chickpeas and dill. Served warm, the spanako-pita is fab (think buttery, crisp filo jam-packed with well-spiced spinach, feta, and onion). And don't miss the homemade spreads served with warm pita bread. Beer & wine. 3016 Guadalupe (512-474-7335). Open Mon-Thur 10-9, Fri & Sat 10-10. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
EVANGELINE
Reward yourself for finding this born-on-the-bayou joint with an ice-cold Abita beer and fried oysters atop thick-cut potato chips. Chicken-sausage gumbo had a devilishly rich roux, while creamy red beans and rice warmed our soul. The praline-stuffed pistolette with powdered sugar and caramel brought tears to our eyes. The music, live blues, doesn't interrupt conversation, and the gaudy decor is charming. Beer & wine. 8105 Brodie Ln (512-282-2585). Open Mon-Thur 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. $ (W+)
FONDA SAN MIGUEL
Many spend an evening here tippling and savoring antojitos, appetizers such as traditional chile con queso from the state of Chihuahua or fresh Acapulco-style ceviche marinated in citrus and olive oil. Too bad for them, because they miss out on Fonda's excellent entrees, including its signature chiles rellenos. Filled with either chicken, shredded pork, or spinach, these labor-intensive beauties are also stocked with olives, capers, pine nuts, and goat cheese. Hard-core carnivores should order the came asada a la tampiquena. With a tender strip of grilled beef, guacamole, a chile poblano, and a cheese enchilada, it's tradition at its best. Bar. 2330 W. North Loop (512-459-4121). Open Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Brunch Sun 11-2. $$-$$$ (W+)
GROVE WINE BAR & KITCHEN
A welcome addition to West Lake, the Grove offers an inviting indoor-outdoor space to sip wine and nosh. Nibble on a salad such as the sesame-seasoned seared ahi tuna, studded with orange wedges, avocado, and wonton crisps. Or pair one of dozens of reasonably priced wines with a prosciutto-and-salami panini slathered with sun-dried-tomato pesto. Take heed: The house-made potato chips are addictive. Beer & wine. 6317 Bee Caves Rd (512-327-8822). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $-$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
(Update) Every flavor, assertive or subtle, deserves your attention at this much-loved restaurant in a cottage outside Austin. Take, for instance, the tender sea scallops, boldly wrapped in venison prosciutto, topped with American sturgeon caviar, and served with a soy yuzu sauce. If you're a fan of heat and texture, don't miss chef Jeff Blank's corn-flake-crunchy shrimp, trout, and avocado atop his signature mango-jalapeno aioli. And, of course, Hudson's is one of Austin's all-time best sources of surf and turf, like open-fire-grilled prime tenderloin topped with a lobster tail doused in herb butter. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-256-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
It was an evening of surprises with each course at this quaint but arty neighborhood spot. Of course we had to begin with our favorite little fried oysters on yucca chips, but the lentil soup with a rich and succulent duck confit soon took center stage. The beef tenderloin was, well, perfect, but who would have thought that the pile of garlicky wilted collard greens beside it would steal the show? The famed Chocolate Intemperance didn't disappoint, but a scoop of the creamy homemade coconut sorbet served with a selection of tiny cookies is our new favorite. Bar. 1204 West
Austin
Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Bat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $76) (W+)
MIGHTY FINE BURGERS, FRIES AND SHAKES
This fifties-meets-the-twenty-first-century burger joint welcomes you with bright blue walls, long picnic tables covered in red-checked cloths, and a swarm of chattering servers wearing old-fashioned white butcher's aprons. And the food? The chopped-chili cheese dog--a big white bun stuffed with a messy mix of chili and a few hunks of sliced hot dog--left us wanting more dog and less chili, but the half-pound burger was great. We debated ordering another side of crisp, hand-cut crinkle fries but washed the craving away with an extra-thick chocolate shake. Arbor Walk shopping center, 10515 N. Loop 1 (MoPac) (512-418-0444). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. $ (W+)
PARKSIDE
(New) Quit asking questions like "Where's the park?" Focus instead on the fact that Shawn Cirkiel, formerly jefe of the stellar Jean-Luc's Bistro, is back in business. The menu at this sophisticated but spare restaurant meanders like an elementary-school composition, yet we found things to love on the long list of daily specials. A raw platter held chunks of barely steamed lobster, peekytoe crab, and slices of scallop balanced by crunchy apple slivers. Beef marrow on toast was equally indulgent. Only the overhyped butter-basted chicken failed to earn high marks. Minimalist decor lends a fresh look to the historic brick-walled building. Bar. 301 E. 6th (512-474-9898). Open Bun-Wed 3:30-midnight, Thur-Sat 3:30-3:30 a.m. $$-$$$ (W+)
RISTORANTE BELLISSIMO
(New) We're not sure about the decor-bamboo accents alongside photos of Bill Clinton and George W. Bush on the wall--but we're positive this small downtown spot is producing some of the best Italian food in Austin. Our repast began with a superb tower of fresh, cool mozzarella, tomato, and basil. We then turned our attention to the linguine Cleopatra--shrimp, scallops, lobster, and mushrooms tossed with pasta in a light tomato cream sauce. Impeccable. Our companion declared his involtini di vitello--veal stuffed with prosciutto, asparagus, and fontina--exceptional. Who were we to disagree? Gratis coffee validated our high opinion of our waiter. Bar. 107 W. 5th (512-391-1881). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ (W+)
ROARING FORK
A business favorite, this bustling downtown restaurant nods in the direction of New Mexico and old Mexico--well, and Texas, in the inventive Dr Pepper-braised short ribs, which come apart at the touch of a fork (the accompanying chile-cheese grits happily soak up the juices). Jalapeno-spiked shrimp come atop spinach-and-portobello enchiladas. To finish, don't miss the scrumptious house-made huckleberry bread pudding--and you might as well start with the signature huckleberry margarita. Bar. 701 Congress Ave (512-583-0000). Open Mon-Fri 11:30-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. $$-$$$ (W+)
SAGRA
Something special has quietly taken over the cottage where Mars got its start. Candlelight and a wood-burning oven make the Italian bistro cozy. A charcuterie plate offered meaty prosciutto with an agreeable, slightly crunchy edge, but next time we want to start with one of the pizzas, made with fine-textured Italian flour. A special ravioli consisted of one large square with a rich layer of mushrooms; wild boar ossobuco was tender in a silky wine reduction, but we missed the traditional veal marrow. Beer & wine. 1610 San Antonio (512-535-5988). Open Mon-Thur 11:30-10, Fri 11:30-12, Sat 5-11. Brunch Sun 11:30-4. $-$$ (W+)
** UCHI
As his reputation grows, so too does Tyson Cole's finesse. Uchi's chef-owner continues to enamor with Japanese-inspired specials such as maplewood-smoked baby yellowtail, strewn with crisp yucca chips and paper-thin slices of Asian pear. Or consider a plate of North Atlantic sweet shrimp; their creamy texture recalls foie gras until the unusual accompaniments-bits of crunchy French breakfast radish and tangy smoked sea salt--draw out the shrimp's briny flavors. A cross-section wedge of pan-seared Sunny Shores cauliflower reminds you that Uchi also excels at stunning presentations. Dramatic setting, with red floral wallpaper. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
It's a treat to bring first-timers to this buzzing Italian bistro; just watch their eyes light up at the first bite of the gratis white-bean dip enriched with basil and olive oils. Entrees on our visit were as good as any we've had here. A pan-seared halibut filet resting atop plump gnocchi in a beurre blanc with thick lumps of crab wowed us, as did the crispy prosciutto-wrapped prawns. Warm zeppole tasted heavenly dusted with cinnamon and sugar and served with vanilla ice cream. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-7672). Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-10, Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30. Brunch Sun 10-3. $$-$$$ (W+)
VINO VINO
(New) This jazzy, low-lit Hyde Park-area wine bar has sophistication without pretension. The walls of the long, narrow room display an impressive selection of wine organized by color and weight--white to red, light to robust--reasonably priced by the bottle or by the glass. The concise menu includes charcuterie, salads, and sandwiches. We especially liked the tender carpaccio with capers and a drizzle of olive oil and the creamy tuna tartar. The cheese plates vary almost daily. Wine. 4119 Guadalupe (512-465-9282). Open Mon-Sat 11-midnight, Sun 3-10. $$ (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
FAT MAC'S SMOKEHOUSE
Friendly service and plenty of elbow room make this a popular family spot. Meat is sold by the pound, so fill your plate with the likes of lean brisket and juicy sausage. The coleslaw is a house favorite; made with a mild vinegar sauce and tossed with apples and peanuts, it's a surprisingly refreshing counterpart to the smoky barbecue. Round out your meal with a sliver of pecan pie coated with a sugary glaze of bourbon sauce. Beer & wine. 5555 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-892-8600). Open Mon-Thur 7-8:30, Fri & Sat 7-9:30, Sun 11-4. $$ (W+)
NOVROZSKY'S
You might want to take a minute or two to study the menu before you make a selection (translation: lots of diner-type food, which we all know is not exactly good for you). But if you're willing to throw caution to the wind, temptations await. We snacked on Jumpin' Jacks--Monterey Jack cheese rolled in crushed tortilla chips, fried, and served with a zesty ranch dressing--then managed to polish off a grilled chicken sandwich with cheddar, guacamole, mayo, and all the trimmings. Beer & wine. 4230 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-898-8688). Open 7 days 10:30-9:30. $ (W+)
SANDERSON'S RESTAURANT AND BAR
Whether perched at the bar perusing the creative cocktail list or seated in the spacious, window-lined dining room, you'll find plenty to like at this family-owned restaurant, from traditional bar food and salads to steak and ribs. We opted for the spinach-and-artichoke dip, a delectable mix of Parmesan and Romano cheeses melted with spinach, artichokes, sauteed onions, and peppers and served with a choice of bread or tortilla chips. Next, we moved to the lighter side with a salad piled high with grilled chicken, tomatoes, and black olives. Bar. 2095 U.5. 69 North, Nederland (409-722-8900). Open Mon-Sat 11-10, Sun 11-8. $ (W+)
Corpus Christi
CAFE AEBY
(Update) Chef Chris Aeby delivers a well-rounded, wholly satisfying meal inspired by flavors both subtle...
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