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Article Excerpt
The Filter: Dining
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Filter: Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter: Dining, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
All listed restaurants accept major credit cards unless otherwise noted. Prices represent atypical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Amarillo
EL BRACERO MEXICAN GRILL
A second location of El Bracero will now treat more of us to some of the freshest, most authentic Mexican food in the Panhandle. Start with a ceviche tostada filled with large chunks of avocado and fish well seasoned with cilantro, lime, and spices. Invite friends to share the mesquite grill brought to your table piled high with the meats of your choice: lamb chops, quail, cabrito, pork ribs, all accompanied by homemade tortillas, rice, beans, and pico de gallo. The flan with a cinnamon caramel sauce is a sensational sweet finale. Beer. 3303 Bell (806-355-0889). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. $ (W+)
SCOTT'S OYSTER BAR
This is as close to the coast as you are going to get in the North Country. If your idea of heaven is straightforward seafaring classics, try the oysters freshly shucked or fried, tender and delicious. If you love shrimp, get half of them boiled and half of them fried. And make sure to check out the specials. You may be lucky enough to arrive on the day that they're serving Cajun stuffed peppers or shrimp creole. Beer. 4150 Paramount Blvd (806-354-9110). Open Men 5-9, Tue-Sat 11:30-9. Closed Sun. $ (W+)
ZEN 721
(New)
Treat yourself to a meal at this smart downtown spot, We can't resist the spicy mango rolls and the seared ahi tuna with tomato ceviche. Our friend sampled the fish tacos--tilapia stuffed in extra-soft flour tortillas with tasty wonton chips on the side, Do yourself a favor and save a little space for the chocolate souffle cake, Bar. 614 S. Polk (805-372-1909). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-1:45, Dinner Men 5-9, Tue- Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
Austin
AQUARELLE
(Update)
Sitting demurely next to the bling-y bars and lounges of West Sixth, this classy cottage beckons like an heirloom cameo. A graciously served dinner started with a creamy leek and fennel tart. Cubes of sea bass, each topped with a poached oyster and floating in a Muscadet-sweetened sauce, outshone the lobster, which suffered from a batter better suited for carnival fare. We requested an espresso spoon to extricate every bit of licorice ice cream that accompanied the clementine entremets. Beer & wine. 606 W. Rio Grande (512-479-8117). Dinner Tue-Thur 6-9, Fri & Sat 6-10. Closed Sun & Men. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
Under new executive chef Josh Watkins, great attention is paid to detail; witness a Bacon and Egg Salad starter in which a poached quail's egg balances inside a fried potato ring. Salty braised Kurobuta pork belly adds texture to light, lemony summer mache greens. The historic dining room positively glows. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazes (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Men. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EAST SIDE PIES
(New)
New and old East Austin converge at this I pizza shop, where dreadlocked BMX riders and middle-class families cross paths. The crackery crusts come heaped with toppings, including, for the daring, sauerkraut and Lit'l Smokies. The Guiche, a vegetarian's dream, is layered with spinach, goat cheese, and sun-dried tomatoes, while the SMORS is just that: sausage, mushroom, onions, red pimientos, and spinach. There's a nice patio, but the concrete table out front affords the best people-watching. BYOB. 1401 Rosewood Ave (512-524-0933). Open Men 4-10, Tue-Thur noon-10, Fri & Sat noon-midnight, Sun noon-10. $
EL GRECO
It's a family affair at El Greco. Nearly every menu item at Austin's newest Greek eatery stems from a family recipe. The zucchini stuffed with a savory blend of rice, beef, and Greek spices? The owner's sister makes it. The aromatic eggplant full of sauteed onions, garlic, bell peppers, and parsley? That recipe comes from the owner's wife. The tarama, or Greek caviar dip, is salty and fetching, as is the hummus, chock-full of whole fresh chickpeas and dill. Served warm, the spanakopita is fab (think buttery, crisp file jam-packed with well-spiced spinach, feta, and onion). And don't miss the homemade spreads served with warm pita bread. Beer & wine. 3016 Guadalupe (512-474-7335). Open Mon-Thur 10-9, Fri & Sat 10-10. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
EUROPEAN BISTRO
Arrive hungry, because the hearty fare at this authentic old-world bistro will fill you up. Order the signature Hungarian gulyas (goulash)--tender prime beef tips that are the perfect accompaniment to homemade Spatzle. Or try the slow-cooked chicken on the bone; chef Piroska should bottle and sell the paprikas sauce that envelops it. If possible, save room for buttery apple strudel a la mode. This is comfort food Eastern European-style. Now we want to go to Budapest. Beer & wine. 111 E. Main, Pflugerville (512-835-1919). Open Tue-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-9. Closed Men. $$-$$$ (W)
EVANGELINE
(New)
Reward yourself for finding this born-on-the-bayou joint with an ice-cold Abita beer and fried oysters atop thick-cut potato chips. Chicken-sausage gumbo had a devilishly rich roux, while creamy red beans and rice warmed our soul. The praline-stuffed pistolette with powdered sugar and caramel brought tears to our eyes. The music, live blues, doesn't interrupt conversation, and the gaudy decor is charming. Beer & wine. 8106 Brodie Ln (512-282-2586). Open Mon-Thur 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. $ (W+)
FINO
Fine's signature gazpacho martini (margarita meets Bloody Mary) epitomizes the inventive dining approach at this treetop restaurant. Start with a frisee salad with crisp potato croutons, bacon vinaigrette, and a poached farm egg--somehow it made us think of spaghetti carbonara without the pasta. And we dare you not to inhale a small truffle oil-kissed stack of serrano ham and Manchego cheese flatbread. Sidestep the less than lean steak tartare, heavy on the Dijon, but stay the course for banana-milk chocolate bread pudding. Fine, indeed. Bar. 2905 San Gabriel (512-474-2905). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
FOGO DE CNAO
An endless parade of meats marches nightly around this gaucho theme park across from the convention center. Fogo might be Camille Paglia's heaven: all male waiters; a sharp-eyed female manager to keep the whirling dervishes who are slicing the beef and lamb from backing into each other; and a red card to indicate "Enough!" All 15 cuts of meat are juicy, salty, and cooked a nice medium-rare. Definitely ignore the banal chicken and fill up on the house special ancho ribeye. Crispy squares of polenta and cheese bread momentarily distract, but then the parade of skewer-bearing gauchos starts up again--it's Disneyland for carnivores. Bar. 309 E. 3rd (512-472-0220). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Fri 5-10, Sat 4:30-10:30, Sun 4-9. $$$ (W+)
FONDA SAN MIGUEL
Many spend an evening here tippling and savoring antojitos, appetizers such as traditional chile con queso from the state of Chihuahua or fresh Acapulco-style ceviche marinated in citrus and olive oil. Too bad for them, because they miss out on Fonda's excellent entrees, including its signature chiles rellenos. Filled with either chicken, shredded pork, or spinach, these laborintensive beauties are also stocked with olives, capers, pine nuts, and goat cheese. Hard-core carnivores should order the came asada a la tampiquena. With a tender strip of grilled beef, guacamole, a chile poblano, and a cheese enchilada, it's tradition at its best. Bar. 2330 W. North Loop (512-459-4121). Open Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Brunch Sun 11-2. $$-$$$ (W+)
THE GROVE WINE BAR & KITCHEN
(New)
A welcome addition to West Lake, the Grove offers an inviting indoor-outdoor space to sip wine and nosh. Nibble on a salad such as the sesame-seasoned seared ahi tuna, studded with orange wedges, avocado, and wonton crisps. Or pair one of dozens of reasonably priced wines with a prosciutto-and-salami panini slathered with sun-driedtomato pesto. Take heed: The house-made potato chips are addictive. Beer & wine. 6317 Bee Caves Rd (512-327-8822). Open Bun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $-$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
All creatures great and small are on the menu of this homey yet sophisticated classic in the hills west of Austin. Take for instance the smoky grilled scallops wrapped in venison prosciutto and served with soy yuzu sauce or the devilishly rich Maine lobster and butternut squash risotto accented with shavings of Granny Smith apple. These openers were phenomenal, but the show was stolen by grilled axis venison chops in a pleasantly tart pomegranate beurre-blanc, sided by lovely poached pears stuffed with goat cheese. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Men 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
It was an evening of surprises with each course at this quaint but arty neighborhood spot. Of course we had to begin with our favorite little fried oysters on yucca chips, but the lentil soup with a rich and succulent duck confit soon took center stage. The beef tenderloin was, well, perfect, but who would have thought that the pile of garlicky wilted collard greens beside it would steal the show? The famed Chocolate Intemperance didn't disappoint, but a scoop of the creamy homemade coconut sorbet served with a selection of tiny cookies is our new favorite. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $76) (W+)
MIGHTY FINE BURGERS, FRIES AND SHAKES
This fifties-meets-the-twenty-first-century burger joint welcomes you with bright blue walls, long picnic tables covered in red-checked cloths, and a swarm of chattering servers wearing old-fashioned white butcher's aprons. And the food? The chopped-chili cheese dog--a big white bun stuffed with a messy mix of chili and a few hunks of sliced hot dog--left us wanting more dog and less chili, but the half-pound burger was great. We debated ordering another side of crisp, hand-cut crinkle fries but washed the craving away with an extra-thick chocolate shake. Arbor Walk shopping center, 10515 N. Loop 1 (MoPac) (512-418-0444). Open Sun- Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. $ (W+)
NORTH
Yes, it's a chain, but don't hold that against this slick, well-designed, hopping trattoria. We started with the house specialty salad, Tutta La Casa (in America we'd say "Kitchen Sink"), a bit of everything from shredded salami and chopped olives to chunky Gorgonzola and Asiago. A thin-crusted pizza of fennel sausage and caramelized onions proved instantly addictive, and the strozzapreti (a loosely rolled ribbon pasta) in Parmesan cream speckled with mushrooms, wilted spinach, and pine nuts nearly knocked us off our seats. Portions are big--arrive hungry. Bar. Domain shopping center, 11506 Century Oaks Terrace (512-339-4400). Open Mon-Sat 11-11, Sun 11-10. $$-$$$
ROARING FORK
(Update)
A business favorite, this bustling downtown I restaurant nods in the direction of New Mexico and old Mexico--well, and Texas, in the inventive Dr Pepper-braised short ribs, which come apart at the touch of a fork (the accompanying chilecheese grits happily soak up the juices), Jalapefiospiked shrimp come atop spinach-and-portobello enchiladas, To finish, don't miss the scrumptious house made huckleberry bread pudding--and you might as well start with the signature huckleberry margarita. Bar. 701 Congress Ave (512-583-0000). Open Mon-Fri 11:30-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. $$-$$$ (W+)
SAGRA
(Update)
Something special has quietly taken over the cottage where Mars got its start. Candlelight and a wood-burning oven make the Italian bistro cozy. A charcuterie plate offered meaty prosciutto with an agreeable, slightly crunchy edge, but next time we want to start with one of the pizzas, made with fine-textured Italian flour. A special ravioli consisted of one large square with a rich layer of mushrooms; wild boar ossobuco was tender in a silky wine reduction, but we missed the traditional veal marrow. Beer & wine. 1610 San Antonio (512-535-5988). Open Mon-Thur 11:30-10, Fri 11:30-11, Sat 5-11. Brunch Sun 11:30-4. $-$$ (W+)
** UCHI
As his reputation grows, so too does Tyson Cole's finesse. Uchi's chef-owner continues to enamor with Japanese-inspired specials such as maplewoodsmoked baby yellowtail, strewn with crisp yucca chips and paper-thin slices of Asian pear. Or consider a plate of North Atlantic sweet shrimp; their creamy texture recalls foie gras until the unusual accompaniments--bits of crunchy French breakfast radish and tangy smoked sea salt--draw out the shrimp's briny flavors. A cross-section wedge of pan-seared Sunny Shores cauliflower reminds you that Uchi also excels at stunning presentations. Dramatic setting, with red floral wallpaper. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-915-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
(Update)
It's a treat to bring first-timers to this buzzing Italian bistro; just watch their eyes light up at the first bite of the gratis white-bean dip enriched with basil and olive oils, Entrees on our visit were as good as any we've had here. A pan-seared halibut filet resting atop plump gnocchi in a beurre blanc with thick lumps of crab wowed us, as did the crispy prosciutto-wrapped prawns. Warm zeppole tasted heavenly dusted with cinnamon and sugar and served with vanilla ice cream. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-7672). Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-10, Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30. Brunch Sun 10-3. $$-$$$ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
FAT MAC'S SMOKEHOUSE
Friendly service and plenty of elbow room make this a popular family spot. Meat is sold by the pound, so fill your plate with the likes of lean brisket and juicy sausage. The coleslaw is a house favorite; made with a mild vinegar sauce and tossed with apples and peanuts, it's a surprisingly refreshing counterpart to the smoky barbecue. Round out your meal with a sliver of pecan pie coated with a sugary glaze of bourbon sauce. Beer & wine. 5555 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-892-8600). Open Mon-Thur 7-8:30, Fri & Sat 7-9:30, Sun 11-4. $$ (W+)
NOVROZSKY'S
You might want to take a minute or two to study the menu before you make a selection (translation: lots of diner-type food, which we all know is not exactly good for you). But if you're willing...
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