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Article Excerpt
JANUARY 2004
Policies and Definitions
The Restaurant Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identity is kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a Texas Monthly restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence In Restaurant Guide, Texas Monthly, Box 1569, Austin 78767.
Star Policy, Credit Cards, and Price Scale
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express, DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, tax, and tip. Inexpensive: less than $10. Moderate: $10-$25. Expensive: $25-$40. Very expensive: more than $40.
Wheelchair Accessibility
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and all major facilities are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
(No symbol) This place is not accessible.
Austin
Chez Zee 5406 Balcones (512-454-2666). You may have considered Chez Zee only for late-night desserts or Sunday brunch. Indeed, that's what it does best. But dinner at this convivial spot won't do you wrong. New Orleans crunchy pecan chicken was tasty, if a touch heavy, but the sweet Gulf shrimp in garlic cream sauce had us mining the tails for remaining tidbits. Bar. Open Sun 9-10, Mon-Thur 11-10:30, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 9-midnight. Moderate Cr. (W+)
Crimson 407 Colorado (512-473-2700). The warehouse district space, with its funky art and high ceilings, is expansive, but the tables filled quickly on a recent crisp day. Our starter of beef satays didn't do much for us, but the grilled chicken sandwich with portobello mushroom, goat cheese, and greens blew us away. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-11 Fri & Sat 5-midnight. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Fleming's 320 E. 2nd (512-457-1500). Aglow in mahogany and cherry wood, Fleming's radiates a men's-club chic that beckons its convention-center clientele. But we were underwhelmed by its raison d'etre: beef. More impressive were the crab cakes, plump rounds of pure crab. And, oddly enough, of a mixed grill of steak, salmon and chicken, it was the humble bird--golden-brown, hardy, and tender--that was the belle of the ball. Bar. Dinner Sun 5-9, Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Granite Cafe 2905 San Gabriel (512-472-6483). The casual restaurant tucked inside a two-story retail-office space specializes in Southwestern bistro food--at least that's what we're calling it. Whatever the moniker, the food is delicious. Pork tenderloin came on a bed of mashed cascabel sweet potates that we're still talking about, and our friend was more than pleased with his smoked trout (head on) wrapped in bacon. The dining room is perked up with bold art, but we recommend you ask for a table outside on the lovely terrace (heaters make it cozy on chilly evenings). Bar. Open Sun 11-3 & 5:30-9, Mon-Thur 11:30-9:30, Fri 11:30-10:30, Sat 5:30-10:30. Sun brunch 11-3. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
* Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). From your comfy nook in Hudson's stone cottage, watch as wintery winds toss the strings of lights in the ancient oaks. Warm up with robustly seasoned but sophisticated fare. We went for meltingly tender smoked backstrap of elk rubbed with cascabel chile and espresso, and a pair of lovely Texas quail stuffed with wild game chorizo and sided by a kicky mango-jalapeno sauce. Bar. Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Expensive to very expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] ** Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). At Jeffrey's, you expect--and usually get--the sun and the moon. Anything less, even when techniques are flawless, can let you down. Pink snapper came on delicate ribbons of homemade linguine, but its scant champagne sauce was so subtle it barely made an impact. Earthy forest mushrooms and tart chevre boosted the flavor of acceptable but hardly cloudlike potato gnocchi. The best entree was meltingly tender veal ossobuco in a lovely demi-glace, but even it needed salt. Indeed, a bit more salt would have helped everything. Vivid abstract art graces smart, simple rooms, and service is intelligent and correct. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $38 & $60). Cr. (W) With assistance.
[UPDATE] Mikado 9033 Research Blvd (512-833-8188). With its gracious service and sultry pop music, this warmly understated, copper-and-honey-toned spot is a refuge from the neon and traffic of the 183 corridor. Of the robata section of the ambitious menu, you can't miss with the hamachi kama, yellowtail collar grilled with salt, pepper, and lemon. It's unexpectedly simple and deceptively rich. Sushi and sashimi are well represented, and the cooked dishes--sea bass in mirin, Angus steak teriyaki, miso-glazed salmon--are a varied and tantalizing lot. Beer, wine & sake. Open Sun-Thur 11-10 Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Moderate. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
Moonshine 303 Red River (512-236-9599). With mason jar water glasses and a logo that looks like something you'd see at Sturgis, the Southern-style venue seems an ignominious end for Emilia's former home, but hang on, pardner. The decor's actually fairly tame, and the food's not half bad. There were some definite misses (off-tasting calamari) but some hits too, like rainbow trout with chile-sage butter. And the servers were helpful, particularly the sommelier (yes, the sommelier). Bar. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Polvos 2004 S. 1st (512-441-5446). On our recent visit, Polvos was suffering a significant side effect of construction on South First: empty seats. No fear, solid Mexican fare--we started with papas Coahuila, a greasy but tasty helping of cubed potatoes, ground chorizo, and onions, and finished with camarones diablos, plump shrimp aswim in a fiery chipotle sauce--will return the flock to this colorful spot. Liquor license pending. Open Sun-Fri 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat 7-11. Moderate to lower expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Ranch 616 616 Nueces (512-479-7616). The waiting line on a recent fall afternoon was almost out the door, so we dined at the bar, which was a perfect perch for people-watching. The pork-and-mushroom enchiladas were superb, but the rest of our meal didn't rate so high. Case in point: The barbecue sauce on our brisket quesadillas tasted like it came from a bottle. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Sun-Wed 5-10, Thur-Sat 5:30-11. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Starlite 624 W. 34th (512-374-9012). Are things at trendy Starlite not so bright? The smudgy windows might be a clue. The restaurant, with stripped wood walls and funky lighting, is now shuttered two days a week, and the service is lacking (five minutes passed before a waiter took our drink order). Paradoxically, the food is still as wonderful as we remembered (and the portions larger): a starter of shrimp with excellent cheese grits and a delicious Starlite Salad with warm spinach, Yukon Gold potatoes, and Gorgonzola. Roasted duck (medium rare) was succulent, but our companion's smoky chilean sea bass on creamy risotto was the dish that carried the day. Stay tuned. Bar. Open Sun 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Wed-Sat 6-11. Closed Mon & Tue. Expensive. AE, MC, V. (W+)
Stubb's Bar-B-Q 801 Red River (512-480-8341). Our past visits to this rough-hewn venue have been solely for the music (the Redheaded Stranger being the most memorable). But this time we ventured to Stubb's for the grub and were pleased to find that the talent isn't just on the stage. The moist chicken, spicy sausage, and creamy serrano-pepper-cheese spinach all earned raves. Bar. Open Sun 11-9, Tue & Wed 11-10, Thur-Sat 11-11. Sun brunch 11-2:30 ($14.95). Closed Mon. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Sushi Sake Gateway shopping center, 9503 Research Blvd at Capital of Texas Hwy (512-527-0888). Sushi Sake somehow pulls off contradiction. It's simultaneously energetic and serene. Sidle up to the high-traffic sushi bar or get comfy at a low-set table in one of the tatami rooms for a menu that runs the gamut--sashimi, rolls, tempura, teriyaki, Japanese specialties such as donburi bowls--with above-average results. The airy tempura shrimp suited us just fine. Bar. Open Sun noon-10, Mon 11:30-2 & 5-10, Tue-Fri 11:30-10, Sat noon-10. Expensive. Cr. (W+) Tatami room with assistance.
[UPDATE] 34th Street Cafe 1005 W. 34th (512-371-3400). Satisfaction seems inevitable at this brightly colored neighborhood spot. Especially since the menu is of the something-for-everyone sort. Need your seafood fix? Bouillabaisse brimming with a seafood triumvirate of perfectly cooked shrimp, scallops, and lobster should take care of that. Craving for steak and potatoes? One of the nightly specials on our recent visit came to the rescue with a tender ribeye, cheddar-infused mashed potatoes, and glazed carrots (for good measure). Can't resist Mexican? Then try the hit of our evening: chicken-and-green-chile enchiladas smothered in a rich chevre sauce. Beer & wine. Open Mon-Fri 11-9:30, Sat 11-4 & 6-9:30. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Twin Dragon 9717 N. Lamar (512-832-8393). A $5.50 lunch buffet draws the cell-phone-and-pager-carrying crowd to this expansive, low-ceilinged strip-mall space. (The spread is one of the best we've soon in a while, featuring both the standards and some specialties such as vermicelli stir-fried with chicken and lemongrass.) We attempted to navigate the more than 200 options on the menu--make that menus, one Vietnamese, one Chinese. Our waitress guided us to a wonderfully flavorful selection: fat shrimp with fresh asparagus, carrots, and button mushrooms in a spicy ginger sauce. Beer & wine. Open Sun 11-10, Mon-Fri 11-2:30 & 5-10, Sat 11-10. Inexpensive to moderate. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Uchi 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). The retro/exotic design and fashion-conscious clientele might be enough to distract you from the wizards behind the sushi bar--but not quite. Watch them conjure edible miracles like the fanciful sawagani--tiny, coral-hued freshwater crabs fried, dusted with sea salt, and perched atop islands of lime--or the Pacific Northwest albacore with mango, orange bell pepper, and fresh mint. All this unrelenting stylishness is tempered by a friendly vibe and helpful servers. Beer, wine & sake. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. AE, MC, V. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Cafe Caprice 900 W. 10th (512-477 5576). What a welcome addition to an underepresented niche in Austin: the simple but stylish American bistro. Though the name belies the menu's sophistication, it does convey the warmth and enthusiasm with which chef Paul Constantine approaches his electic New American cuisine. A coconut-curry soup with chicken and shiitakes was phenomenal, the fragrant Thai flavors lending a lively complexity to an earthy stew. And a spiced roast-duckling breast--beautiful rosy slices of duck with a Morello cherry-citrus sauce--was a quintessential fall dish. Beer & wine. Dinner Sun & Tue-Sat 6-10 Closed Mon. Expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
El Chile Cafe and Cantina 1809 Manor Rd (512-457-9900). Clean lines, candlelit tables, and warm pastel hues provide an inviting backdrop for all the comforts of well-prepared Mexican dishes. Our hearty tortilla soup was everything a starter should be--a full-of-flavor prelude that left us looking forward to the next course. The waitress recommended flautas (moist chicken rolled in a crispy shell, topped with lettuce, tomatoes, and a zig-zag of crema fresca) earned high marks for both presentation and taste. The only bobble, a soggy tres leches cake. Bar. Open Tue-Sat 11-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Moderate. AE, MC, V. (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
[UPDATE] Don's 2290 I-10S, Beaumont (409-842-0686). Don's quality, not to mention pleasant atmosphere, is a boon to seafood-lovers like ourselves (what a thrill to dine without a trash can at the end of the table). Spicy chicken and sausage gumbo kicked off our recent visit, while two of Don's stuffed specialties caught our eye for the main affair: the crispy, zesty crab patties and the flounder (stuffed with white crabmeat and shrimp). Shrimp pie--crustaceans seasoned with cayenne and garlic and baked in a petite pie pan--remains among our favorites. Bar. Open Sun & Mon 11-9, Tue-Sat 11-10. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Guadalajara 4414 Dowlen, Beaumont (409-924-7718). Bright colors, kitschy imports, red vinyl upholstery--so what if Guadalajara's talent doesn't rest with decorating. These folks are concentrating on the food. Tortilla soup was brimming with fresh vegetables and flavorful chicken, the queso flameado with beef fajita meat was oozy perfection, and fried ice cream and pillows-of-air light sopaipillas served with honey were make-room-for-dessert worthy. Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
JB's BBQ 5750 Hwy 90 at I-10W, Orange (409-886-9823). For more than 30 years JB's has served up no-frills barbecue, the way it should be. The brisket is tender, the juicy rib meat falls off the bone, and the smoked boudin is delightful. The sauce is on the spicy side, but it complements the oak-smoked meat well. BYOB. Open Tue-Sat 11-8. Closed Sun & Mon. Inexpensive. AE, MC, V. (W)
Logon Cafe 3805 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-833-6950). This trendy Internet cafe--with new-age decor and a gracious staff--offers a caffeine-charged trip to the World Wide Web. Along the way, fuel up on hearty homemade soups and sandwiches. We sampled the chicken noodle soup and a chicken pita, the latter a honey-wheat pocket stuffed with grilled chicken, sprouts and tomato. Beer & wine. Open Mon-Thur 9-11, Fri 9 a.m-12:30 a.m., Sat 10-12:30. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
Novrozsky's 4230 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-898-8688). Take out is "in" at this hamburger joint. You can tote home a set of Backyard Burgers--uncooked patties with all the fixings--for $2.50 per setup, or a 12-pound cajun-fried turkey (for $29). The not-so-ambitious (a.k.a those who want to eat here) will find a menu ranging from stuffed spuds to buffalo burgers. Open 7 days 11-10. Inexpensive. Cr. (W)
Corpus Christi
[UPDATE] Beamer's Moore Plaza, 5425 S. Padre Island Dr (361-992-1291). At the family-friendly Boomer's, you'll find bold red-and-black decor, a smattering of pinball machines, an overhead TV tuned to sports, and tasty fare ranging from pizza and spaghetti to burgers and nachos. Our favorites include the thick milk shakes and the bean burger--a beef patty topped with cheddar cheese, crushed corn chips, refried beans, and salsa. Next time we'll try the Margherita pizza (with chicken fajita meat for a twist). Beer & wine. Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Catfish Charlie's 5830 McArdle Rd (361-993-0363). Vinyl tablecloths and unfinished wood floors create a casual atmosphere at the seafood restaurant known for its hearty servings. After a few hushpuppies--okay, we had a basketful--our platter of half a dozen lightly fried butterflied shrimp arrived. A companion's flavorful gumbo had just the right punch. Beer & wine. Open Sun-Tue 11-9, Wed 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
D, Noodle House Pharaoh Plaza, 4701 Ayers (361-855-6096). Locals flock to this Vietnamese restaurant owned by the brother of Dallas Cowboys linebacker Dat Nguyen (his posters adorn the walls). Ignore the strip-center atmosphere and focus on the food. We especially like the house favorite, bun dac biet--a generous portion of tender charcoal-grilled beef and shrimp atop vermicelli and vegetables--and its $5.95 price tag. Open Mon-Sat 10:30-8. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
[UPDATE] Howard's Bar-B-Q 1002 Antelope (361-882-1200). When you are experiencing serious barbecue cravings, head for the barn-red building, where tender beef brisket, smoked sausage, and sliced turkey are served cafeteria-style. Of the usual side offerings, you won't want to pass on the tasty...
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