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Article Excerpt
The Filter Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter: Dining, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
All listed restaurants accept major credit cards unless otherwise noted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-S30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
[W] The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
[W+] The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
[W] Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol. This place is not accessible.
Amarillo
EL BRACERO MEXICAN GRILL
A second location of El Bracero will now treat more of us to some of the freshest, most authentic Mexican food in the Panhandle. Start with a ceviche tostada filled with large chunks of avocado and fish well seasoned with cilantro, lime, and spices. Invite friends to share the mesquite grill brought to your table piled high with the meats of your choice: lamb chops, quail, cabrito, pork ribs, all accompanied by homemade tortillas, rice, beans, and pico de gallo. The flan with a cinnamon caramel sauce is a sensational sweet finale. Beer. 3303 Bell (806-355-0889). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri& Sat 11-10. $ [W+]
GREEN CHILE WILLY'S GRILL
This unpretentious, contemporary grill offers a few gold standards, including chicken-fried steak with creamy gravy and whole Hatch chiles on top, thin fresh-cut fries, juicy burgers, and the famous Chile Willy Jack Kansas City Strip. Southern-style green beans are made with bacon and make you feel like you're back at your grandmother's dinner table. For dessert, the chocolate cream pie satisfies any sweet tooth. 136511-27 (806-622-2200). Open Tue-Sat 11-9. Closed Sun & Mon. $ [W+]
SCOTT'S OYSTER BAR
Update
This is as close to the coast as you are going to get in the North Country. If your idea of heaven is straightforward seafaring classics, try the oysters freshly shucked or fried, tender and delicious. If you love shrimp, get half of them boiled and half of them fried. And make sure to check out the specials. You may be lucky enough to arrive on the day that they're serving Cajun stuffed peppers or shrimp Creole. Beer. 4150 Paramount Blvd (806-354-9110). Open Mon 5-9, Tue-Sat 11:30-9. Closed Sun. $ [W+]
Austin
** DRISKILL GRILL
Under new executive chef Josh Watkins, great attention is paid to detail; witness a Bacon and Egg Salad starter in which a poached quail's egg balances inside a fried potato ring. Salty braised kurobuta pork belly adds texture to light, lemony summer mache greens. The historic dining room positively glows. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ [W+]
EL GRECO
New
It's a family affair at El Greco. Nearly every menu item at Austin's newest Greek eatery stems from a family recipe. The zucchini stuffed with a savory blend of rice, beef, and Greek spices? The owner's sister makes it. The aromatic eggplant full of sauteed onions, garlic, bell peppers, and parsley? That recipe comes from the owner's wife. The tarama, or Greek caviar dip, is salty and fetching, as is the hummus, chock full of whole fresh chickpeas and dill. Served warm, the spanakopita is fab (think buttery, crisp filo jam-packed with well-spiced spinach, feta, and onion). And don't miss the homemade spreads served with warm pita bread. Beer & wine. 3016 Guadalupe (512-474-7335). Open Mon-Thur 10-9, Fri & Sat 10-10. Closed Sun. $-$$ [W+]
EUROPEAN BISTRO
Arrive hungry, because the hearty fare at this authentic old-world bistro will fill you up. Order the signature Hungarian gulyas (goulash)--tender prime beef tips that are the perfect accompaniment to homemade Spatzle. Or try the slow-cooked chicken on the bone; chef Piroska should bottle and sell the paprikas sauce that envelops it. If possible, save room for buttery apple strudel a la mode. This is comfort food Eastern European-style. Now we want to go to Budapest. Beer & wine. 111 E. Main, Pflugerville (512-835-1919). Open Tue-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-9. Closed Mon. $$-$$$ [W]
FINO
Fino's signature gazpacho martini (margarita meets Bloody Mary) epitomizes the inventive dining approach at this treetop restaurant. Start with a frisee salad with crisp potato croutons, bacon vinaigrette, and a poached farm egg--somehow it made us think of spaghetti carbonara without the pasta. And we dare you not to inhale a small truffle oil-kissed stack of serrano ham and Manchego cheese flatbread. Sidestep the less than lean steak tartare, heavy on the Dijon, but stay the course for banana-milk chocolate bread pudding. Fino, indeed. Bar. 2905 San Gabriel (512-474-2905). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ [W+]
FOGO DE CHAO
An endless parade of meats marches nightly around this gaucho theme park across from the convention center. Fogo might be Camille Paglia's heaven: all male waiters; a sharp-eyed female manager to keep the whirling dervishes who are slicing the beef and lamb from backing into each other; and a red card to indicate "Enough!" All 15 cuts of meat are juicy, salty, and cooked a nice medium-rare. Definitely ignore the banal chicken and fill up on the house special ancho ribeye. Crispy squares of polenta and cheese bread momentarily distract, but then the parade of skewer-bearing gauchos starts up again--it's Disneyland for carnivores. Bar. 309 E. 3rd (512-472-0220). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri 5-10:30, Sat 4:30-10:30, Sun 4-9. $$$ [W+]
FONDA SAN MIGUEL
[Update]
Many spend an evening here tippling and savoring antojitos, appetizers such as traditional chile con queso from the state of Chihuahua, or fresh Acapulco-style ceviche marinated in citrus and olive oil. Too bad for them, because they miss out on Fonda's excellent entrees, including its signature chiles rellenos. Filled with either chicken, shredded pork, or spinach, these labor-intensive beauties are also stocked with olives, capers, pine nuts, and goat cheese. Hard-core carnivores should order the carne asada a la tampiquena. With a tender strip of grilled beef, guacamole, a chile poblano, and a cheese enchilada, it's tradition at its best. Bar. 2330 W. North Loop (512-459-4121). Open Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Brunch Sun 11-2. $$-$$$ [W+]
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
All creatures great and small are on the menu of this homey yet sophisticated classic in the hills west of Austin. Take for instance the smoky grilled scallops wrapped in venison prosciutto and served with soy yuzu sauce or the devilishly rich Maine lobster and butternut squash risotto accented with shavings of Granny Smith apple. These openers were phenomenal, but the show was stolen by grilled axis venison chops in a pleasantly tart pomegranate beurre-blanc, sided by lovely poached pears stuffed with goat cheese. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, IV? miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ [W+]
** JEFFREY'S
[Update]
It was an evening of surprises with each course at this quaint but arty neighborhood spot. Of course we had to begin with our favorite little fried oysters on yucca chips, but the lentil soup with a rich and succulent duck confit soon took center stage. The beef tenderloin was, well, perfect, but who would have thought that the pile of garlicky wilted collard greens beside it would steal the show? The famed Chocolate Intemperance didn't disappoint, but a scoop of the creamy homemade coconut sorbet served with a selection of tiny cookies is our new favorite. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $76). [W+]
MIGHTY FINE BURGERS, FRIES AND SHAKES
New
This fifties-meets-the-twenty-first-century burger joint welcomes you with bright blue walls, long picnic tables covered in red-checked cloths, and a swarm of chattering servers wearing old-fashioned white butcher's aprons. And the food? The chopped-chili cheese dog--a big white bun stuffed with a messy mix of chili and a few hunks of sliced hot dog--left us wanting more dog and less chili, but the half-pound burger was great. We debated ordering another side of crisp, hand-cut crinkle fries but washed the craving away with an extra-thick chocolate shake. Arbor Walk shopping center, 10515 N. Loop 1 (MoPac) (512-418-0444). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. $[W+]
NORTH
Yes, it's a chain, but don't hold that against this slick, well-designed, hopping trattoria. We started with the house specialty salad, Tutta La Casa (in America we'd say "Kitchen Sink"), a bit of everything from shredded salami and chopped olives to chunky Gorgonzola and Asiago. A thin-crusted pizza of fennel sausage and caramelized onions proved instantly addictive, and the strozzapreti (a loosely rolled ribbon pasta) in Parmesan cream speckled with mushrooms, wilted spinach, and pine nuts nearly knocked us off our seats. Portions are big--arrive hungry. Bar. Domain shopping center, 11506 Century Oaks Terrace (512-339-4400). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $$-$$$ [W+]
SAGRA
New
There's a new enoteca in town, and it's creating quite a buzz. Housed in the quaint little house formerly occupied by Mars, Sagra's warm terra cotta walls and cheerful vibe go hand in hand with excellent Neapolitan-style pizzas, fresh antipasti, and exquisite pasta dishes. We started with the bruschetta of the day--goat cheese, basil, and crunchy pancetta. Yum. The prosciutto and arugula pizza satisfied with its nice crispy crust, but the braised short-rib cannelloni took our breath away. Order the cookies of the day quick--they go fast! Bar. 1610 San Antonio (512-535-5988). Open Mon-Thur 11:30-10, Fri 11:30-11, Sat 5-11. Brunch Sun 11:30-4. $-$$ [W+]
** UCHI
Update
As his reputation grows, so too does Tyson Cole's finesse. Uchi's chef-owner continues to enamor with Japanese-inspired specials such as maplewood-smoked baby yellowtail, strewn with crisp yucca chips and paper-thin slices of Asian pear. Or consider a plate of North Atlantic sweet shrimp; their creamy texture recalls foie gras until the unusual accompaniments--bits of crunchy French breakfast radish and tangy smoked sea salt--draw out the shrimp's briny flavors. A cross-section wedge of pan-seared Sunny Shores cauliflower reminds you that Uchi also excels at stunning presentations. Dramatic setting, with red floral wallpaper. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri &Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ [W+]
* VESPAIO
When was the last time you tasted fresh house-cured olives? Plump and buttery, these green Sevilla olives were delightfully paired with a baby grilled cheese sandwich of fontina d'aosta on homemade focaccia. Is there anything they can't do at this dark and still-trendy ristorante? Chef de cuisine Ryan Samson's raviolini (filled with tender veal and Pecorino Romano in a grappa tomato butter) was a knockout, visually and in flavor. Desserts hold their own as well. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-10, Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations taken Mon-Thur & Sun until 6:30. $$-$$$ [W+]
Beaumont-Port Arthur
FAT MAC'S SMOKEHOUSE
Update
Friendly service and plenty of elbow room make this a popular family spot. Meat is sold by the pound, so fill your plate with the likes of lean brisket and juicy sausage. The coleslaw is a house favorite; made with a mild vinegar sauce and tossed with apples and peanuts, it's a surprisingly refreshing Beaumont-Port Arthur
counterpart to the smoky barbecue. Round out your meal with a sliver of pecan pie coated with a sugary glaze of bourbon sauce. Beer & wine. 5555 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-892-8500). Open Mon-Thur 7-8:30, Fri & Sat 7-9:30, Sun 11-4. $$ [W+]
NOVROZSKY'S
Update
You might want to take a minute or two to study the menu before you make a selection (translation: lots of diner-type food, which we all know is not exactly good for you). But if you're willing to throw caution to the wind, temptations await. We snacked on Jumpin' Jacks--Monterey Jack cheese rolled in crushed tortilla chips, fried, and served with a zesty ranch dressing--then managed to polish off a grilled chicken sandwich with cheddar, guacamole, mayo, and all the trimmings. Beer & wine. 4230 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-898-8588). Open 7days 10:30-9:30. $ [W+]
SANDERSON'S RESTAURANT AND BAR
Update
Whether perched at the bar perusing the creative cocktail list or seated in the spacious, window-lined dining room, you'll find plenty to like at this family-owned restaurant, from traditional bar food and salads to steak and ribs. We opted for the spinach-and-artichoke dip, a delectable mix of Parmesan and Romano cheeses melted with spinach, artichokes, sauteed onions, and peppers and served with a choice of bread or tortilla chips. Next, we moved to the lighter side with a salad piled high with grilled chicken, tomatoes, and black olives. Bar. 2095 Hwy 59 North, Nederland (409-722-8900). Open Mon-Sat 11-10, Sun 11-8. $ [W+]
Corpus Christi
FRANK'S SPAGHETTI HOUSE
A neighborhood family restaurant without a neighborhood for sixty years and counting--they must be doing something right. The atmosphere is comfortably informal, the hospitality warm, and the old standby dishes consistently well prepared. Choose the house dressing (sweet-tart garlic vinaigrette) for the salad and even to drizzle on the pizza or pasta, if you like. They accommodated a special request for linguine in garlic butter sauce with grilled Italian sausage and pleased a vegan companion with the baked eggplant parmigiana. No fancy culinary innovation here--just a good variety of affordable, homemade italian standards. Beer & wine. 2724 Leopard (351-882-0075). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. $-$$ [W]
HESTER'S CAFE & COFFEE BAR
Long lines of loyal customers give away this hidden locale offering fancy coffee and hearty lunches. Our favorites: the Swinney Switch Salad (full of delicious bits of Cajun roasted turkey, applewood-smoked bacon, and red-chile pecans, dressed in avocado ranch) and the High Tide Sandwich (cream cheese, walnuts, bean sprouts, cucumber, Roma tomatoes, and avocado on nine-grain bread). Try a...
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