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Article Excerpt
The Filter: Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodediter@texazmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter: Dining, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant. ** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant. * One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
All listed restaurants accept major credit cards un--less otherwise noted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12 $$ $12-$30 $$$ $31-$45 $$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible t o wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Amarillo
EL BRACERO MEXICAN GRILL
(New) A second location of El Bracero will now treat more of us to some of the freshest, most authentic Mexican food in the Panhandle. Start with a ceviche tostada filled with large chunks of avocado and fish well seasoned with cilantro, lime, and spices. Invite friends to share the mesquite grill brought to your table piled high with the meats of your choice: lamb chops, quail, cabrito, pork ribs, all accompanied by homemade tortillas, rice, beans, and pico de gallo. The flan with a cinnamon caramel sauce is a sensational sweet finale. Beer. 3303 Bell (806-355-0889), Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Bat 11-10. $ (W+)
GREEN CHILE WILLY'S GRILL
This unpretentious, contemporary grill offers a few gold standards including chicken-fried steak with creamy gravy and whole hatch chiles on top, thin fresh-cut fries, juicy burgers, and the famous "Chile Willy Jack Kansas City Strip." Southern-style green beans are made with cuts of bacon and make you feel like you're back at your grandmother's dinner table. For dessert, the chocolate cream pie satisfies any sweet tooth. 13551 I-27 (806-622-2200). Open Tue-Sat 11-9. Closed Sun & Men. $ (W+)
THAI ARAWAN
In Thai Arawan's comfortable and intimate new setting, diners can catch a glimpse of the action in the open kitchen and enjoy some of the best Thai food in town. Try the pad kee mao, which includes egg, broccoli, and bean sprouts stir-fried with flat rice noodles, jalapeno, and basil. 2834 Wolflin Ave (805-453-7157). Open 7 days 11-3 & 5-9. $ (W+)
Austin
BOSSA NOVA
(New) This Brazilian-inspired sandwich shop with spare wooden tables, bright-yellow walls, and blond-stained particleboard paneling offers a nice lunchtime respite. Though the broccoli-cheese soup was bland and thick, the grilled misto tudo sandwich with sliced ham, hearts of palm, green olives, and gooey mozzarella was fabulous. Be sure to order a side of pecan-wood smoked salsa for your chips. This sensational condiment is more than worth the extra 85 cents you'll be charged for it. 2121 E. 6th (512-478-8700). Open Mon-Fri 6:30-7, Sat 8-6. Closed Sun. $ (W+)
CASA COLOMBIA
Craving some black beans and sweet plantains? Head to humble Casa Colombia for authentic South American (and some Caribbean) cuisine. We loved their Cuban ropa vieja, shredded beef with green olives, capers, and a hint of red wine. 1614 E. 7th (512-495-9425). Open Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-6. Closed Mon. $-$$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
Under new executive chef Josh Watkins, great attention is paid to detail; witness a Bacon and Egg Salad starter in which a poached quail's egg balances inside a fried potato ring. Salty braised kurobuta pork belly adds texture to light, lemony summer mache greens. The historic dining room positively glows. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EUROPEAN BISTRO
(Update) Arrive hungry, because the hearty fare at this authentic old-world bistro will fill you up. Order the signature Hungarian gulyas (goulash)--tender prime beef tips that are the perfect accompaniment to homemade Spatzle. Or try the slow-cooked chicken on the bone; chef Piroska should bottle and sell the paprikas sauce that envelops it. If possible, save room for buttery apple strudel a la mode. This is comfort food Eastern European-style. Now we want to go to Budapest. Beer & wine. 111 E. Main, Pflugerville (512-835-1919). Open Tue-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-9, Closed Mon. $$-$$$ (W)
FINO
(Update) Fino's signature gazpacho martini (margarita meets Bloody Mary) epitomizes the inventive dining approach at this treetop restaurant. Start with a frisee salad with crisp potato croutons, bacon vinaigrette, and a poached farm egg--somehow it made us think of spaghetti carbonara without the pasta. And we dare you not to inhale a small truffle oil-kissed stack of serrano ham and Manchego cheese flatbread. Sidestep the less than lean steak tartare, heavy on the Dijon, but stay the course for banana-milk chocolate bread pudding. Fino, indeed. Bar. 2905 San Gabriel (512-474-2905). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
FOGO DE CHAO
(New) An endless parade of meats marches nightly around this gaucho theme park across from the convention center. Fogo might be Camille Paglia's heaven: all male waiters; a sharp-eyed female manager to keep the whirling dervishes who are slicing the beef and lamb from backing into each other; and a red card to indicate "Enough!" All 15 cuts of meat are juicy, salty, and cooked a nice medium-rare. Definitely ignore the banal chicken and fill up on the house special ancho ribeye. Crispy squares of polenta and cheese bread momentarily distract, but then the parade of skewer-bearing gauchos starts up again--it's Disneyland for carnivores. Bar. 309 E. 3rd (512-472-0220). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri 5-10:30, Sat 4:30-10:30, Sun 4-9. $$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
(Update) All creatures great and small are on the menu of this homey yet sophisticated classic in the hills west of Austin. Take for instance the smoky grilled scallops wrapped in venison prosciutto and served with soy yuzu sauce or the devilishly rich Maine lobster and butternut squash risotto accented with shavings of Granny Smith apple. These openers were phenomenal, but the show was stolen by grilled axis venison chops in a pleasantly tart pomegranate buerre-blanc, sided by lovely poached pears stuffed with goat cheese. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
Some show up in shorts and Longhorns tees, but we like to play grown-up in this classy restored house. A saffron and corn soup, with a cloud of pea foam, was lovely, and a chilled crab soup was even more delectable. Entrees, just-nice beef tenderloin and chewy lamb chops with a too-sweet blackberry sauce, were more mundane. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $77). (W+)
JOE DIMAGGIO'S ITALIAN CHOPHOUSE
Dean Martin on the sound system, plush leather booths--that will get you into your nice clothes. We started with a crab mousse battered in cornmeal and served up as a crispy fritter. The braciole--a thin slice of veal rolled with prosciutto cotto and provolone, then baked and served over creamy polenta and a garlicky tomato demi--proved rich and flavorful. Warm chocolate souffle with a light creme anglaise made us think of another piece of period music: "It's De-Lovely." Bar. Domain shopping center, 11410 Century Oaks Terrace (512-835-5533). Lunch 7 days 11-3. Dinner Sun-Wed 5-10, Thur-Sa t 5-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
NORTH
(North) Yes, it's a chain, but don't hold that against this slick, well-designed, hopping trattoria. We started with the house specialty salad, Tutta
Austin
La Casa (in America we'd say "Kitchen Sink"), a bit of everything from shredded salami and chopped olives to chunky Gorgonzola and Asiago. A thin-crusted pizza of fennel sausage and caramelized onions proved instantly addictive, and the strozzapreti (a loosely rolled ribbon pasta) in Parmesan cream speckled with mushrooms, wilted spinach, and pine nuts nearly knocked us off our seats. Portions are big--arrive hungry. Bar. Domain shopping center, 11506 Century Oaks Terrace (512-339-4400). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $$-$$$ (W+) See also Pat's Pick, page 139.
PRIMIZIE OSTERIA
(New) The Spedales, husband-and-wife caterers, now also have a brick-and-mortar spot with a grand view of the Masonic temple. Clean lines match the simple menu of mostly pastas and paninis. Gnocchi with porcini mushrooms, corn, and sage butter (and cracked red pepper) was ambitious but a bit gummy, while spaghetti puttanesca had plenty of personality (read: anchovies) but proved overcooked. Servers in cool T-shirts screened with vegetable silhouettes try hard to please. Beer & wine. 1000 E. 11th (512-236-0088). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 5-9. $ (W+)
SOUTH CONGRESS CAFE
The cheerful postmodern-retro interior fills up for the popular weekend brunch. There were too many choices for that early in the morning, but we finally focused on cheesy migas and crisp panko-crusted crab cakes. Carrot-cake French toast was ethereally light. Bar. 1600 S. Congress Ave (512-447-3905). Dinner 7 days 5-10. Brunch Mon-Fri 10-4, Sat & Sun 9-4. $$ (W+)
TORCHY'S TACOS
(Update) Torchy's smolders at twilight: streaks of orange sunset, smoke from the fire pit, flickering votives, and plenty of hot sauce. Although making the most of a creekside setting, Torchy's is still basically a taco trailer--and a wildly popular one at that. Your best bet is to have a green-chile pork taco stuffed with slow-simmered shredded pork and Hatch green chiles or a crisp-crusted fried Baja shrimp taco with carrot-and-jalapeno escabeche. We were dubious about original combinations like the fried avocado taco with its layer of refried beans, but a dousing of the salsa verde helped cut through the density. Oh, this just in: Torchy's now delivers to South Central Austin! 1207 S. 1st (512-366-0537). Open Sun-Thur 7-10, Fri & Sat 7-11. $ (W)
TRIO
The Cafe at the Four Seasons is now Trio. Gone are the earth tones and sense of occasion, replaced with expensively rood decor. A contemporary steakhouse-and-seafood menu showcases the likes of a nicely cooked filet mignon with infant vegetables and a moist olive oil-poached halibut filet. Bar. Four Seasons Hotel, 98 San Jacinto Blvd (512-685-8300). Breakfast Mon-Fri 6:30-11, Sat 7-11, Sun 7-9. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10. Brunch Sun 10-2. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$ (W+)
** UCHI
If heaven were a food, it would arrive as plump morsels of Alaskan king crab sashimi drizzled with vanilla oil and dappled with dried blueberries. All we tried was exceptional, but we found the rice-papered endo roll filled with sea bass, snow crab, and gold tobiko (flying fish roe) particularly enchanting. Sophistication emanates from the red Asian-flowered walls. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
When was the last time you tasted fresh house-cured olives? Plump and buttery, these green Sevilla olives were delightfully paired with a baby grilled cheese sandwich of fontina d'aosta on homemade focaccia. Is there anything they can't do at this dark and still-trendy ristorante? Chef de cuisine Ryan Samson's raviolini (filled with tender veal and Pecorino Romano in a grappa tomato butter) was a knockout, visually and in flavor. Desserts hold their own as well. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-10, Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations taken Mon-Thur & Sun until 6:30. $$-$$$ (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
SARTIN'S WEST
This family-owned spot attracts diners who appreciate seafood that is as simple as it is good. Not up for an all-you-can-eat platter, we tamed our mid-size appetite with barbecued crabs and enjoyed every last finger lick. Our dinner included a baked potato, hushpuppies, and a trip to the salad bar. Leave plenty of time to appreciate the sunlit dining area or patio. Beer & wine. 6680 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-861-3474). Open Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-3. Closed Mon. $$ (W)
Corpus Christi
DOBSON CAFE
The art museum's lunchroom serves fare in a spectacular setting. Watch in awe as tankers slide by, while you try the Cuban (ham, pulled pork, and Swiss on a baguette) or the Southwest Caesar (with black beans, corn, and a chipotle-laced dressing). Leave room for Monet's Mini, a dessert trio including a coconut chocolate truffle, a Meyer lemon bar, and double chocolate mousse. Beer & wine. 1902 N. Shoreline Blvd (361-825-3523). Open Tue-Sat 11:30-1:30. Closed Mon & Sun. $-$$ (W+)
FRANK'S SPAGHETTI HOUSE
(Update) A neighborhood family restaurant without a neighborhood for sixty years and counting--they must be doing something right. The atmosphere is comfortably informal, the hospitality warm, and the old standby dishes consistently well prepared. Choose the house dressing (sweet-tart garlic vinaigrette) for the salad and even to drizzle on the pizza or pasta, if you like. They accommodated a special request for linguine in garlic butter sauce with grilled Italian sausage and pleased a vegan companion with the baked eggplant parmigiana. No fancy culinary innovation here--just a good variety of affordable, homemade Italian standards. Beer & wine. 2724 Leopard (361-882-0075). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W)
HESTER'S CAFE & COFFEE BAR
Long lines of loyal customers give away this hidden locale offering fancy coffee and hearty lunches. Our favorites: the Swinney Switch Salad (full of delicious bits of Cajun roasted turkey, applewood-smoked bacon, and red chile pecans, dressed in avocado ranch) and the High Tide Sandwich (cream cheese, walnuts, bean sprouts, cucumber, Roma tomatoes, and avocado on nine-grain bread). Try a bacon-cheddar scone for breakfast on the run. 1714 S. Alameda at Six Points, entrance on Palmero (361-885-0558). Open Mon-Sat 7-3. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
KATZ 21 STEAK AND SPIRITS
Although tempted by the impressive array of steaks and chops, we recently fell for the savory daily special: roasted duck served with a mixed berry glaze and accompanied by roasted sweet potatoes. The honey walnut salad was an outstanding starter--a just-right mix of caramelized-in-honey walnuts, Gorgonzola, and fresh raspberries on chilled mixed greens sweetened even more by a honey vinaigrette. A bowl of the chicken ziti pasta, with grilled chicken, bell pep per, and olives, was alluring too, but the kitchen was vexingly slow, so we might have just been hungry. Bar. 317 N. Mesquite (361-884-1815). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-1:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
MAMMA MIA'S
(Update) Gianni DelZotto continues to run a tight ship in his kitchen (in full view of the patrons), maintaining standards seldom matched in South Texas. The freshest of fresh flounder filet in a light sauce of white wine, lemon, and...
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