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Article Excerpt
The skinny issue of the February, 1934 California Grape Grower (now Wines & Vines) has little of interest for this column. However, much to my surprise, there is a full-page ad from Owens-Illinois and a full-page picture of Franklin Delano Roosevelt upon the occasion of his 52nd birthday, honoring his effort to bring about Repeal of the 18th Amendment (Prohibition).
"The Dry White Wines of California," by E.M. Sheehan. This is a report on the status of these wines. Sheehan states, "Frankly, there is a dearth of matured dry white wines in California at this time." Naturally, as most of the producers were of Mediterranean extraction and to them, "it was the duty of every grape to make red wine." On top of which we--by which he means nearly all wine men--felt that "mature" meant three or four years old. Almost undrinkable, by today's standards.
My father was the exception. He especially wanted our San Benito Riesling, of which we had a fair amount growing near Tre Pinos, San Benito County, to be crushed a bit before full maturity and then "finished" and bottled quickly, so as to retain a greenish-gold color and a fine Riesling aroma. But it was tough to get my uncles to do this, as they had been taught to get full sugar in the grapes. My dad (who was hot to sell to restaurants) was coached in his ideas by an old German restaurateur by the name of August Jensen, of Jensen's Hofbrau (his slogan was, "Jensen Wants To See You"). I was raised with this bone dry wine, and yearn for it still.
Most of the remainder of this issue is taken with explanations of the myriad wine types, grape varieties, steps for production of various winegrapes, and wine types and ways to serve wines.
There is also a fine article on "Native Grapes for White Wines," by a Mrs. Hedrick of the N.Y. Geneva Station. I wish I had read it before I went to the Finger Lakes and our 100-acre vineyard there.
The 1954 edition of W & V is also a rather slim one, and is more full of technical papers...
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Calendar.(Calendar), February 01, 2004
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