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Getting the most from vineyard consultants.

Article Excerpt
When is the best time to call in a vineyard consultant? "Before the vineyard is planted," is the answer we received in a telephone and e-mail survey of consultants across the United States and Canada. In fact, as soon as you even think of planting, call in the vineyard doctor. After the vines are in the ground, it may be too late.

Lucie Morton, who is based in Virginia, said the biggest single problem she encounters is people in a hurry. Morton is an international consultant and the author of several books and numerous articles on viticulture. She is currently working on her new book, Roots for Fine Wine.

"Generally speaking, problems are created by people in a hurry. They make compromises on site development, plant material, vineyard design, equipment choices, etc. that create perennial problems--what I call the '25-year headache.' Taking the time to do things right the first time almost always pays off in the longer term," Morton said by e-mail.

Morton said it is also important to keep an open mind. "In preparation for my next book, I've done a huge amount of research which shows how important it is to maintain an open mind about what is really going on in a vineyard. Once you really understand things from the vine's perspective, you are better able to help someone create a vineyard according to their criteria, from the cheapest scenario to shooting-for-the-stars. You also know that there are some things money can't buy," she said. "The real core issue beyond viticulture itself revolves around the people--their goals, temperaments, values, intelligence and vision."

On the issues of clonal selection and rootstock, Morton said, "There are so many new plantings in new places, with new vineyard designs, that it will be some years before we figure out the specific role played by rootstocks and clonal selections."

Morton said she is dismayed at the problem of misidentified varieties and clones. "This is perpetuated on a rather large scale through the use of 'vineyard selections.' There can be such blatant errors as 'Viognier' that is really Syrah or Roussanne, the latter usually discovered much later, because the grapes are also white," she said. She added that there could be more subtle problems like a mix of clones within a variety. "One nursery seems to send a percentage of Sauvignon blanc...