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Article Excerpt
The Filter: Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter. Dining, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
All listed restaurants accept major credit cards unless otherwise noted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Amarillo
RANDY'S
Relocated from Wildorado to a new spot in the renovated Paramount Theatre building, this restaurant now has a fresh, big city feel. The BLT on pumpernickel makes a fine choice for lunch. For dinner, we like the creamy lobster bisque and flavorful Caesar salad as a light entree, or the lightly blackened halibut served over a thin bed of cheese grits. Delectable. Bar. 817 S. Polk (806-220-0200). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Tue-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
STOCKYARD CAFE
(New) Hidden away in the historic Amarillo Livestock Auction Building lies an institution famous for luring generations of cowboys, business folk, and families. Our favorite lunch items are the Jimmy Bacon Burger and the juicy sirloin, both served with crisp fries. On our last visit, the crunchy catfish special was too good to pass up (even in cow country). The extra creamy banana pudding reminded us why people keep coming back to this Amarillo icon. 101 S. Manhattan (806-342-9411). Lunch Mon-Sat 6:30-2. Dinner Fri only 5-8:30. Closed Sun. $ (W+)
Austin
BLUE DAHLIA
(New) Perfect for a healthy lunch or an evening cheese platter and glass of wine, the Dahlia's wood-filled, earth-toned space, with long communal dining tables, is a charming re-do of the old Dandelion Cafe on the city's near east side. We tried a selection of open-faced sandwiches creatively served on wooden cheese boards. The roast beef with capers and Dijon creme fraiche on whole wheat bread was nice, but our favorite filling was the silky ricotta spread glazed with a gave nectar and topped by a dried fig. Beer & wine. 1115 E. 11th (512-542-9542). Open Mon-Fri 8-10, Sat & Sun 10-10. $ (W+)
CAFE JOSIE
Did a tropical vacation elude you? Sneak off to this airy and relaxed spot where soft reggae music and Red Stripe beer ease the mind and soul. A redfish special served on crawfish etouffee works even following a cotija Caesar salad with delectable green-chile polenta croutons. Or go with the salmon basted with a light jerk sauce. Beer & wine. 1200B W. 6th (512-322-9226). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Tue-Thur 6-9:30, Fri & Sat 6-10. Closed Sun & Mort. $$-$$$ (W+)
Austin
CIBO
(Update) Chef-owner Will Packwood has abandoned the rustic approach, returning to his creative Emilia's style. Three was the magic number on our latest visit, the best dishes balancing herbal, salty, and creamy elements. Airy gnocchi, salsa verde, and a crispy square of tender pork belly proved our theory; so did ruby slices of beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola sauce and sprigs of micro arugula. We polished off grilled calamari on polenta (although it was as bland as Cream of Wheat) in a savory parsley-flecked sauce. The rule of three extended to a challenging dessert where lush panna cotta and mint sorbet in a lightly but agreeably salty pool of melon soup achieved perfect harmony. The tall stone walls evoke historic Austin. Bar. 918 Congress Ave (512-478-3553). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
Under new executive chef Josh Watkins great attention is paid to detail; witness a Bacon and Egg Salad starter in which a poached quail's egg balances inside a fried potato ring. Salty braised kurobuta pork belly adds texture to light, lemony summer mache greens. The historic dining room positively glows. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
ESTANCIA CHURRASCARIA
Go slow at this new Brazilian steakhouse. Relish the garlicky goodness of tender picanha, but leave room for filet mignon, lamb, linguica, chicken, and more--a Home Depot showroom is less overwhelming. As the meat choices come at you on skewers wielded by gaucho-costumed waiters, take a break for yucca fries and crisp hearts of palm at the sprawling salad bar. Bar. 4894 U.S. 290W (512-892-1225). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2, Sat & Sun 11:30-3. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri 5-10:30, Sat 4-10:30, Sun 4-9:30. $$ (W+)
HOT MAMA'S ESPRESSO BAR
(New) "Love Your Coffee, Love Your Life, Love Your Mama," proclaims the sign over the latest lively coffee shop on Austin's east side. From the kitchen, the former proprietor of much-loved Ararat restaurant, Kelly Abshire, turns out garlicky handmade hummus; couscous touched with cinnamon, cranberries, and pine nuts; and deceptively light pita pizzas. Hot Mama's owner, Holly Skala, describes her partnership with Abshire as "the merging of two fantastic mamas." Don't miss Skala's Hot Mama latte--organic Brazilian espresso with a sprinkle of fresh grated coconut. 2401 E. 6th (512-475-6262). Open Mon-Fri 7-5, Sat 9-4. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
(Update) We figured our salad would be hard to top--a wedge of candled pecan-crusted blue cheese nestled in a heap of arugula and edible flower petals, all drizzled in a fig balsamic vinaigrette. But then came chef Jeff Blank's expertly grilled Axis venison chops topped with butter-poached Maine lobster. The surf n' turf combination, fused with a streak of habanero honey, was accompanied by grilled peaches. To quote Blank's own playbook, it was "cooking fearlessly" at its best. The rustic cottage with twinkle lights inspires no fear whatsoever. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 520, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-265-1359). Dinner Sun & Mon 5-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
JASPER'S
Jasper's dark yet colorful and contemporary environs were just right for a nicely seasoned flat iron steak accompanied by garlicky sauteed spinach and mushrooms. Tangy peach-accented barbecued pork tenderloin came in a close second. For dessert: Cherry Limeade Pie. Bar. The Domain, 11506 Century Oaks Terrace, north of Braker Ln between Burnet Rd and MoPac (Loop 1) (512-834-4111). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11-9. $$-$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
This upscale but unintimidating neighborhood haunt does not cling to tired tradition. We were impressed with pecan-crusted halibut, in which a spoonful of homemade granola (served alongside) makes an odd but perfect accompaniment (morels and wild asparagus round out the plate). Almond cake is enlivened with creme fraiche and crunchy sugared almonds. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $77). (W+)
JO'S HOT COFFEE
(Update) As opposed to the bustling breakfast and lunch crowds it attracts, the dinner clientele is more subdued at this Jetson's-meets-fifties diner in the trendy Second Street District. (Maybe people don't yet know Jo's is open for dinner.) Seated on comfy orange bar stools, we spilt an old-fashioned cheeseburger, which was made special by a lightly sweetened bun. If forced to choose between the fries and homemade chips, we'd go with the chips. For dessert, we ordered the rich, fudgy Coca-Cola cake to go. Beer & wine. 242 W. 2nd (512-469-9003). Open Mon-Fri 7-10, Sat & Sun 8-10. $ (W+)
MOONSHINE
(Update) Moonshine delivers on atmosphere, with low lighting, old limestone walls, and friendly service. Our recent dinner, however, did not totally deliver on taste. Although green-chile mac and cheese and a mildly spicy molasses-and-chile-cured pork chop pleased, the crunchy-coated snapper lacked crunch and suffered from competing flavors in its peach relish, basil pesto, and crabmeat garnish. The iron skillet apple pie ended our evening on a happy note, though. Arrive early for a drink in the cozy carriage house. Bar. 303 Red River (512-235-9599). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-4. Dinner Mon-Thur 4-10, Fri & Bat 4-11, Sun 5-10. Brunch Sun 10-2:30. $$ (W+)
SAMPAIO'S
Begin with queijo frito at Austin's best-known Brazilian restaurant. This pecan-crusted fried Brie, with a drizzle of spicy raspberry sauce, is worth the self-indulgence. A goat cheese-accented blend of mashed potato and yucca complements a coffee-crusted grilled pork loin topped with spicy cherry sauce. Skip dessert and enjoy a round of Brazilian mojitos on the inviting patio. Bar. 4800 Burnet Rd (512-459-9988). Open Sun- Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $$ (W+)
** UCHI
Super toro probably gets as many strategic cuts as a Tiffany diamond. Age tofu (pronounced ah-gay), with an umami-rich dash/broth, takes soybean curd where it's never been before. Kabocha hotate, a diver scallop fanned over squash puree, requires restraint--licking the plate would never do at this bastion of Japanese fusion cuisine and trendy cool. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
Had it not been for a splendid appetizer of fried polenta sticks with scrumptious buttery mushrooms in a Gorgonzola sauce, we would have been disgruntled. Lemon sole baked in parchment had a marvelous aroma but mealy texture. But the service was spot-on, as was the wine recommendation at this dark, sociable, and amazingly noisy spot. Bar. 1610 South Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Sun &Mon 5-10, Tue-Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5-10. Reservations taken Mon-Thur & Sun until 6:30. $$-$$$ (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
SUGA'S
Dark wood, high ceilings, and expansive windows set the stage for a romantic dinner downtown. Fried green tomatoes with lump crabmeat and two sauces was our most impressive dish. Though a few plates didn't thrill us, Suga's evening-out atmosphere and live jazz makes it nice for a special occasion. Call ahead for performance times. Bar. 461 Bowie, Beaumont (409-813-1808). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Brunch Sun 11-3. $$$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
CAFE AEBY
(Update) Having expanded into Restaurant Aeby's I former space, this popular lunch spot has reinvented itself and now offers dinner. Talented chef Chris Aeby's presentations are as artful as ever, and his flavor combinations as subtle, but his prices remain happily moderate. We particularly enjoyed a smooth, light cream of roasted corn soup followed by poached salmon on a salad of paper-thin sliced cucumber accented by a dill-spiked sauce. The gnocchi appetizer (with chanterelles and sweet peas in a Parmesanrich broth) is alone worth a visit. Bar. The Village, 3815 S. Alameda (361-225-0329). Lunch Tue-Sat 11- 2:30. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-9:30. Closed Sun & Mon. $$ (W+)
HEMINGWAY'S BAR AND GRILL
Now that summer vacationers are gone, you can catch a table at this Rockport star with its comfortable but refined air and exceptional food. The hit of a recent evening was an outstandingly fresh sauteed drum, which surpassed even the signature crab cakes. We gave a nod to Papa for a commendable Key lime pie. Bar. 1008 E. North at Magnolia (361-729-7555). Lunch Tue-Sat 11:30-2. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-9 (may close earlier or later; call). Closed Sun & Mon. $$-$$$
SULTAN MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE
(New) An ambitious menu featuring a variety of cuisines attracted us to this new far south-side oasis. The decor is artful, if spare, and the service good-spirited. Portuguese corn cakes with grilled shrimp and cumin-lime-chipotle sauce were excellent, as was the grilled chicken in salsa verde. But neither the bland kibbeh (a baked mixture of ground beef lightened with...
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