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Article Excerpt
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Filter: Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange fur a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter. Dining, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
Amarillo
BEANS N' THINGS
We savored the juicy brisket and gnawed every morsel of our succulent beef rib at this counter-order barbecue joint. The chili is delicious (add a few green chiles for extra kick). And don't give up your seat before sampling the banana pudding or fresh cobbler. Now serving breakfast. Beer. 1700 E. Amarillo Blvd (806-373-7383). Open Mon-Fri 7-8, Sat 7-6:30. Closed Sun. $ (W+)
YOUNG SUSHI
(New) It's hard to believe you're in the Texas Panhandle when walking into this fresh and authentic sushi den, more reminiscent of San Francisco's Japantown. The purist's preference, nigiri sushi, is plentiful, or you can go American with a New York roll made with salmon, crab, asparagus, and avocado. Or try the crab Rangoon--a crispy-on-the outside, warm-and-velvety-on-the-inside package of cream cheese, scallions, and crabmeat bundled into a deep-fried wonton wrapping. Beer & sake. 900 S. Tyler (806-371-7200). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-3. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-P:30, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun. $ (W)
Austin
ASTI
This contemporary neighborhood spot is always filled with good cheer. Our grilled scallops popped with a truffled Meyer lemon relish, but what sent us into a tizzy was the decadent lamb sugo--a deep tomato sauce with tender chunks of lamb and a hint of rosemary. For dessert: yummy vanilla bean gelato with warm cinnamon-sugar beignets. Beer & wine. 408 E. 43rd (512-451-1218). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $S-$$$ (W+)
BOTTICELLI'S
The Michigan-bred Botticelli brothers (Andrew and Matt) and Geoff Nunez, former sous chef at Chicago's Tru, offer a meat- and fish-centric menu at this small yet comfortably open Italian-oriented space. The braised beef brajole, small "cigars" of flank steak around a filling, overcame mundane appearance with good flavor. Flourless chocolate cake went beautifully with its tangy topping. Bar. 1321 South Congress Ave (512-g16-1315). Open Tue & Wed 11-10, Thur & Fri 11-11, Sat 4-11, Sun 4-10. Brunch Sun 11-3. Closed Mon. $$ (W+)
CAFE JOSIE
(Update) Did a tropical vacation elude you this summer? Sneak off to this airy and relaxed spot where soft reggae music and Red Stripe beer ease the mind. Calamari, dusted with hot pepper, is simultaneously juicy and crunchy. A redfish special served on crawfish etouffee works even following a cotija Caesar salad with delectable green-chile polenta croutons. Or go with the salmon basted with a light jerk sauce and think of the airfare you saved. Beer & wine. 1200B W. 6th (512-322-9226). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Tue-Thur 6-9:30, Fri & Sat 6-10. Closed Sun & Mon. $$-$$$ (W)
COUNTER CAFE
(New) Local food, global love," proclaims this tiny diner with a gourmet twist. Consider the Counter Benedict: poached eggs with seared pastrami on flaky homemade biscuits. Local and organic ingredients also turn up at lunch. A grassfed-beef patty (topped with cheddar, organic Boston lettuce, and ripe tomatoes) comes on a wheat or white bun accompanied by hand-cut fries. No heat lamps here. 626 N. Lamar (512-708-8800). Breakfast Tue-Fri 7-11, Sat 8-4. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-4. Dinner Thur-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun &Mon. $$ (W)
** DRISKILL GRILL
Under new executive chef Josh Watkins great attention is paid to detail; witness a Bacon and Egg Salad starter in which a poached quail's egg balances inside a fried potato ring. Salty braised kurobuta pork belly adds texture to light, lemony summer mache greens. The historic dining room positively glows. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Our L.A. visitor winced but ultimately succumbed to the subtle, pistachio-touched flavor of rattlesnake cakes. Soon she was hooked on the game-accented offerings of this refined ranch house west of Austin. The venison chops with goat cheese-stuffed Chilean plums beautifully matched meat and fruit. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
JASPER'S
Dallas chef-owner Kent Rathbun's "gourmet backyard" cuisine has found a stylish home in Austin. The kitchen is turning out the likes of superb smoked baby back ribs and a good pecan-crusted rainbow trout filet with molasses sweet potatoes (like eating dessert first). Bar. The Domain, 11506 Century Oaks Terrace, north of Braker Ln between Burnet Rd and MoPac (Loop 1) (512-834-4111). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11-9. $$-$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
(Update) This upscale but unintimidating neighborhood haunt does not cling to tired tradition. To begin, choose from a classy starter such as sherry-touched chanterelle and onion soup. Then segue to a dish like pecan-crusted halibut, in which a spoonful of homemade granola (served alongside) makes an odd but perfect accompaniment (morels and wild asparagus round out the plate). Almond cake is enlivened with strawberry ice cream, creme fraiche, and crunchy sugared almonds. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $77). (W+)
LA TRAVIATA
The small tables are tightly spaced, but there is romance at the table for two in the front window. A bed of perfect asparagus, peas, and fingerling potatoes cradled moist halibut, though the sauce bristled with too much cracked red pepper. A stunning panna cotta with blood orange slices was both classic and dramatic--just like the opera. Bar. 314 Congress Ave (512-479-8131). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
MARS
Unwind on the deck of this hip multiethnic care. Under the oaks, we started well with the smooth, garlicky hummus and an inventive napoleon of peppered goat cheese and roasted red peppers. Unfortunately, our entrees--slightly dry macadamia-crusted trout and an unevenly cooked tandoori mixed grill--weren't in the same league. Bar. 1400 South Congress Ave (512-472-3901). Open Sun & Mon 11-10, Tue & Wed 11-10:30, Thur-Sat 11-11. $$ (W+)
SALVATION PIZZA
Give us a pizza with an exemplary thin crust and we'll eat anything on top. Happily, most of the toppings measure up at this casual, pared-down bungalow. A simple basil and tomato combo, a bit too cheesy, would have been rapture anointed with the savory tomato sauce from the sausage-olive-mushroom pie. Beer & wine. 624 W. 34th (512-535-0076). Open Tue-Thur 11:30-2 & 4-10, Fri 11:30-11, Sat noon-11, Sun 5-9. Closed Mon. $ (W+)
SHORELINE GRILL
A plank salmon special stole the show at this upscale spot on Town Lake. Grilled to moist perfection, the wild fish smelled and tasted of the rugged Pacific Northwest. Creamy mashed potatoes lent a calming effect. The heavenly finale? A warm, lightly spiced raspberry peach crisp with Mexican vanilla ice cream. Bar. 98 San Jacinto at Cesar Chavez (512-477-3300). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 5-9. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** UCHI
(Update) Super toro in the hands of Tyson Cole probably gets as many strategic cuts as a Tiffany diamond. Other dishes gleam, too. Age tofu (pronounced ah-gay), with an umami-rich dashi broth, takes soybean curd where it's never been before. Kabocha hotate, a diver scallop fanned over squash puree, requires restraint once you've finished--licking the plate would never do at this bastion of trendy cool. (When you aren't lusting over another group's food, check out their shoes.) Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. $$-$$$
UNCLE BILLY'S BREW AND QUE
(New) Arrive at this buzzing hangout after 7 p.m. and the patio may be filled, especially if there's live music. Metallic accents and varnished woods portend serious, even uptown, barbecue. We found the brisket smoky and lean, the not-too-greasy sausage splendid (especially with the vinegary sauce), and the dry-rubbed pork ribs, well, finger-licking good. Unfortunately, sides were subpar, particularly the beans. For dessert, just order more barbecue. Bar. 1530 Barton Springs Rd (512-476-0100). Open 7 days 11 a.m.-2 a.m. $ (W+)
* VESPAIO
The "McDreamy" of Austin restaurants still charms. An antipasti of buttered crab in a tender artichoke-heart cup was such a scene-stealer that we blew off the accompanying boring salad greens. A risotto special, with a layer of lamb bacon melting in the carnaroli rice, made us sit up and pay attention. A caveat: The energy and noise level are high, even on weeknights. Bar. 1610 South Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Mon-Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Reservations taken Mon-Thur & Sun until 6:30. $$-$$$ (W)
ZOCALO CAFE
(New) This Cali-Mex locale in Clarksville feels like a teeth-whitening commercial, the colors are so vivid. Our visits were a mixed bag. We liked some offerings, especially tacos de carnitas (tender pulled pork with pineapple pico de gallo wrapped in homemade corn tortillas) but were less than thrilled with others. The first few bites of the Zocalo Plate-layers of crisp tortilla strips, grilled chicken, and creamy verde sauce rich with cilantro and lime--pleased, but the stack quickly lost its crunch. Piping-hot churros were sugary-crisp outside but doughy inside. BYOB. 1110 West Lynn (512-472-8226). Open 7 days 11-10. $ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
ORIGINAL CAJUN COOKERY
The original owners of this monument to all-you-can-eat seafood have reopened with a more upscale dining area and the same good-quality buffet offering everything from stuffed flounder to crawfish etouffee. The crabs, packed with Cajun-seasoned stuffing and green onions, had us taking multiple platefuls while locals enjoyed mounds of mudbugs and cold beer. Beer & wine. 2308 Lutcher Dr (1-10), Orange (409-670-1000). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. $$ (W+)
SUGA'S
(New) Suga's has brought action back to downtown's historic Coale Building. Dark wood, high ceilings, and expansive windows set the stage for a romantic dinner. Fried green tomatoes topped with lump crabmeat and drizzled with two sauces (mild peach hollandaise and shrimp cream) was our most impressive dish. Though so-so tilapia and overcooked smoked pork chops didn't thrill us, Suga's evening-out atmosphere and live jazz makes it nice for a special occasion. Call ahead for performance times. Bar. 461 Bowie, Beaumont (409-813-1808). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Brunch Sun 11-3. $$$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
DRAGONFLY
A Moroccan tagine was this visit's highlight, rich with spiced chicken legs and couscous. Grilled fresh grouper came with a light but spicy olive and artichoke sauce. Family-size sides of crisp green beans and cloud-light potato puffs are so harmonious they could broker world peace. Colorful and casual inside, this bistro is a jewel. Beer & wine. 13925 S. Padre Island Dr (361-949-2224). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Tue-Thur 4-9, Fri & Sat 4-9:30. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
LISABELLA'S
Any meal will go swimmingly if it starts with the intriguing Mermaid Soup, a melding of lobster, shrimp, avocado, cilantro, coconut milk, and curry. Entrees of lightly crusted crab cakes and sauteed fresh grouper will bring us back for more. We concocted our own grasshopper dessert--superior peppermint sauce over peppermint ice cream and chocolate cake. BYOB. 224 E. Cotter Ave, Port Aransas (761-749-4222). Open Mon-Sat 5:70-10. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W)
SHELL'S PASTA AND SEAFOOD
Shell's invites you to come in your shorts for an outstanding meal. Port A blue-crab cakes (with Key lime aioli) and pan-seared amberjack (with green-chile lime salsa) both earned enthusiastic applause, as did an artistic salad of avocado and lump crab. For dessert, we succumbed to homemade Key lime cheesecake. Beer & wine. 522 E. Ave G, Port Aransas (761-749-7621). Open 7 days 11-2 & 5-9. $-$$$ (W)
SNOOPY'S PIER
(Update) Get to this venerable...
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