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Article Excerpt
Policies and Definitions
The Restaurant Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identity is kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a Texas Monthly restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to Restaurant Guide, Texas Monthly, Box 1569, Austin 78767.
Star Policy, Credit Cards, and Price Scale
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, Dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, tax, and tip. Inexpensive: less than $10. Moderate: $10-$25 Expensive: $25-$40. Very expensive: more than $40.
Wheelchair Accessibility
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and all major facilities are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
(No symbol) This place is not accessible.
Austin
[UPDATE] Artz Rib House 2330 S. Lamer Blvd (512-442-8283) Artz isn't fancy like Rudy's or the County Line, which is good, because we've come to respect the barbecue joints that aren't. You won't find an ATM inside, but you will come across huge portions of good 'cue. The Country Pork Ribs--a platter of three big tasty ribs with slaw, beans, and potato salad--is the reason to eat at Artz We like the sausage too; the brisket on the other hand, was dry on a recent visit Beer & wine. Open Sun noon-9, Mon-Sat 11-10. Moderate Cr. (W)
[UPDATE] Cafe at the Four Seasons 98 San Jacinto (512-685-8300) Tucked beneath the see and be seen lobby bar and comfortably positioned on almost every local top-ten list, the Cafe offers a truly refined dining experience while showcasing chef Elmar Prambs's international approach to Texas classics: quail breast is smoked with that ingredient du jour, green tea, and served atop soba-noodle salad, while a tender beef tenderloin gets a bubbling crust of Manchego. And you can count on one hand the Austin restaurants that achieve that Cafe's level of service Bar. Breakfast Sun 7-10:30, Mon-Fri 6:30-11, Sat 7-11 Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2. Dinner Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Sun brunch 11:30-2. Very expensive Cr. (W+)
Cafe Caprice 900 W. 101h (512-477-5576) What a welcome addition to an underrepresented niche in Austin: the simple but stylish American bistro. A coconut-curry soup with chicken and shiitakes was phenomenal And a spiced roast-duckling breast--beautiful rosy slices of duck with a Murello cherry--citrus sauce--was a quintessential fall dish. Beer & wine. Dinner Sun & Tue-Sat 6-10. Closed Mon. Expensive AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Chez Zee 5406 Balcones (512-454-2666) You may have considered Chez Zee only for late-night desserts or Sun day brunch. But dinner at this convivial spot won't do you wrong. New Orleans crunchy pecan chicken was tasty, if a touch heavy, but the sweet Gulf shrimp in garlic cream sauce had us mining the tails for remaining tidbits Bar. Open Sun 9-10, Mon-Thur 11-10:30, Fri 11-midnight Sat 9-midnight. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Driskill Grill 604 Brazes (512-391-7162). We've become se accustomed to Austin's non-existent dress code that we felt like kids playing dress-up at the Driskill Grill. The opulent dining room (rich fabrics, fine linens, china-laden tables) was a nice reprieve from minimalist decors of late. We were enchanted with the food too. The moist striped black sea bass with crab chowder was fantastic (as was the duck with brandied apples), but our starter of grilled quail with a coriander-orange-curd sauce, topped with a dab of Patron granite was even better Chef David Bull has an uncanny ability to make even the most ordinary of dishes seem fresh Bar. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10 Closed Mon. Expensive to very expensive (chef's tasting menus $125 & $165). Cr. (W+)
El Chile Cafe and Cantina 1809 Manor Rd (512-457-9900) Clean lines candlelit tables, and pastel hues provide an inviting backdrop for well-prepared Mexican dishes. Our hearty tortilla soup was a full-of-flavor prelude to our flautas (moist chicken rolled in a crispy shell, topped with lettuce, tomatoes, and a zig-zag of crema fresca). They earned high marks for both presentation and taste Bar Open Tue-Sat 11-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Moderate AE, MC, V. (W+)
Fleming's 320 E. 2nd (512-457-1500) Aglow in mahogany and cherry wood, Fleming's radiates a men's club chic. But we were underwhelmed by its raison d'etre: beef. More impressive were the crab cakes, plump rounds of pure crab. And, oddly enough, of a mixed grill of steak salmon and chicken, it was the humble bird--golden-brown and herby--that was the belle of the ball. Bar. Dinner Sun 5-9, Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
Granite Cafe 2905 San Gabriel (512-472-6483). The casual restaurant tucked inside a two-story retail-office space specializes in Southwestern bistro food--at least that's what we're calling it. Delicious pork tenderloin came on a bed of mashed cascabel sweet potatoes that we're still talking about and our friend was more than pleased with his smoked trout (head on) wrapped in bacon. Bar. Open Sun 11-3 & 5:30-9, Mon-Thur 11-9:30 Fri 11-10:30, Sat 5:30-10:30. Sun brunch 11-3. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
* Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369) Warm up with robustly seasoned but sophisticated fare. We went for meltingly tender smoked backstrap of elk rubbed with cascabel chile and espresso, and a pair of lovely Texas quail stuffed with wild game chorizo and sided by a kicky mango-jalapeno sauce. Bar. Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri& Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended: a must weekends. Expensive to very expensive AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
** Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). At Jeffrey's, you expect--and usually get--the sun and the moon Anything less can let you down Pink snapper came oil delicate ribbons of homemade linguine, but its scant champagne sauce was so subtle it barely made an impact. Earthy forest mushrooms and tart chevre boosted the flavor of acceptable but hardly cloudlike potato gnocchi. The best entree was melting tender veal ossobuco in a lovely demi-glance, but even it needed salt Smart decor intelligent gel'vice Bar Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10 Fri & Sat 5:30 10:30. Reservations recommended. Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $38 & $60). Cr. (W) With assistance.
Mikado 9033 Research Blvd (512-833-8188). With Its gracious service and sultry pop music, this warmly understated, copper-and-honey-toned spot is a refuge from the neon and traffic of the 183 corridor. Of the robata section of the ambitious menu, you can't miss with the hamachi kama, yellowtail collar grilled with salt, pepper and lemon. Cooked dishes like sea bass in mirin and Angus steak teriyaki are a varied and tantalizing lot. Beer, wine & sake. Open Sun-Thur 11-10 Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Moderate. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
Polvos 2004 S. 1st (512-441-5446). On our recent visit Polvos was suffering a significant side effect of construction on South First: empty seats But the solid Mexican fare--we started with papas Coahuila, a greasy but tasty helping of cubed potatoes ground chorizo and onions, and finished with plump shrimp aswim in a fiery chipotle sauce--will return the flock to this colorful place. Bar. Open Sun-Fri 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat 7-11. Moderate to lower expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Starlite 624 W. 34th (512-374-9012). Are things at trendy Starlite not so bright? The restaurant with stripped wood walls and funky lighting, now serves dinner just four days a week, and the service is lacking (five minutes paused before a waiter took our drink order). Paradoxically, the food is still as wonderful as we remembered: Roasted duck (medium rare) was succulent, but our companion's smoky chilean sea bass on creamy risotto was the dish that carried the day Stay tuned. Bar. Open Sun 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Wed-Sat 6-11. Closed Mon & Tue. Expensive AE, MC, V. (W+)
Sushi Sake Gateway shopping center, 9503 Research Blvd at Capital of Texas Hwy (512-527-9888) Sushi Sake somehow manages to be simultaneously energetic and serene. Sidle up to the high-traffic sushi bar or get comfy at a low-set table in one of the tatami rooms for a menu that runs the gamut--sashimi, rolls, teriyaki Japanese specialties such as donburi bowls--with above-average results. The airy tempura shrimp suited us just fine. Bar. Open Sun noon 10 Mon 11:30 2 & 5-10, Tue-Thur 11:30-10, Fri 11:30-10:30. Sat noon-10. Expensive. Cr. (W+) Tatami room with assistance.
34th Street Cafe 1005 W. 34th (512-371-3400). Satisfaction seems inevitable at this brightly colored neighborhood spot, especially since the menu is of the something-for-everyone sort. Craving steak and potatoes? A nightly special was a tender ribeye with cheddar-infused mashed potatoes. Can't resist Mexican? Then try the hit of our evening: chicken-and-green-chile enchiladas smothered in a rich chevre sauce. Beer & wine. Open Mon-Fri 11-9:30, Sat 11-4 & 6-9:30. Closed Sun Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Uchi 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). The retro/exotic design and fashion conscious clientele might be enough to distract you from the wizards behind the sushi bar--but not quite. Watch them conjure edible miracles like sawagani--tiny, coral-hued freshwater crabs tried, dusted with sea salt, and perched atop islands of lime--or the Pacific Northwest albacore with mango orange bell pepper, and fresh mint. Beer wine & sake. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11 Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive AE, MC, V. (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
Don's 2290 I-10S, Beaumont (409-842-0686). Dens quality not to mention pleasant atmosphere, is a treat (what a thrill to dine without a trash can at the end of the table). Spicy chicken and sausage gumbo kicked off our recant visit while one of Den's stuffed specialties caught our eye for the main affair: crispy zesty crab patties Bar. Open Sun & Mon 11-9, Tue-Sat 11-10. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Guadalajara 4414 Dowlen Beaumont (409-924-7718) Bright colors, kitschy imports red vinyl upholstery--so what if Guadalajara's talent doesn't lie in decorating. Tortilla soup was brimming with fresh vegetables and flavorful chicken, the queso flameado with beef fajita meat was cozy perfection and pillows-of-air-light sopaipillas served with honey were make-room-for-dessert worthy. Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. Moderate AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Novrozsky's 4230 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-898-8668). Take out is "in" at this hamburger joint. You can tote home a set of Backyard Burgers--uncooked patties with all the fixings--for $2.50 per setup or a 12-pound cajun-fried turkey for $29. The not-so-ambitious (a. k. a. those who want to eat here) will find a menu ranging from stuffed spuds to buffalo burgers. Open 7 days 11-10. Inexpensive. Cr. (W)
[UPDATE] Tuffy's Eatery 11261 Texas Hwy 12, Mauriceville (409-745-3170) Antique furniture and an old soda fountain lend a from-another-era charm to this country-cajun spot Mish Mash Chopped Steak grilled sirloin topped with melted cheddar and diced tomatoes onions, and green and red peppers, was full of flavor, while the chicken-fried steak was fried to crispy, golden perfection. A word to the wise: Don't even try lo resist the yeast rolls or the pineapple coconut cake. Open Sun 11-8, Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Rio Rites 230 Crockett, Beaumont (409-833-0750). Crockett Street has added a classy Tex-Mex restaurant. Polio Mexico--grilled chicken breast smothered in a poblano cream sauce and melted jack cheese and sided by rice and frijoles a la charra--proved to be the evening's best bet. Mexican Delight, a scoop of vanilla ice cream atop a deep-fried cinnamon-and-sugar pastry shell, was dreamy The outdoor patio and upstairs balcony are perfect for warm weather dining. Open Sun-Tue 11-9, Wed & Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. DS, MC, V. (W+)
Texas Star Cafe 205 N. Wheeler. Colmesneil (409-837-4444). Every small town needs a country-style spot, a place for locals to gather and gossip over hot, home cooked meals. Colmesneil has chef Patrick Lam, who de livers with the quaint Texas Star Cafe. The burgers are juicy, the meal is cut on the premises, and the servers could not be more accommodating. We devoured the peach cobbler topped by a scoop of ice cream in about three seconds. Bar. Open Sun 7-10, Mon-Thur 10-9, Fri 10-10, Sat 7-10. Inexpensive. DC, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Corpus Christi
Beamer's Moore Plaza, 5425 S. Padre Island Dr (361-992-1291) At family-friendly Beamer's, you'll find bold red-and-black decor, a smattering of pinball machines an overhead TV tuned to sports, and tasty fare ranging from pizza and spaghetti to burgers and nachos. Our favorites include the thick milk shakes and the bean burger--a beef patty topped with cheddar cheese crushed corn chips, refried beans, and salsa. Beer & wine. Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Catfish Charlie's 5830 McArdle Rd (361-993-0363). Vinyl tablecloths and unfinished wood floors create a casual atmosphere at the seafood restaurant known for its hearty servings Alter a few hushpuppies--okay, we had a basketful--our platter of half a dozen lightly fried butterflied shrimp arrived A companions flavorful gumbo had Just the right punch Beer &wine. Open Sun-Tue 11-9, Wed 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Moderate AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
UPDATE Crystal's 4119 S. Staples (361-857-8081). At Crystal's, kids can watch the electric train as it winds around the ceiling-high track while waiting for good eats like burgers, sandwiches, or ribs. The potato skirls are done right here--they come topped with loads of melted cheddar and bits of bacon. We also like the spinach quiche and the accompanying tossed salad in a fried tortilla shell. A companion's California Croissant--sliced turkey, Swiss, bacon, lettuce, and tomato on a buttery roll--was a bit ordinary. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Moderate. Cr. (W)
Howard's Bar-B-Q 1002 Antelope (361-882-1200). When you are experiencing serious barbecue cravings, head for the barn-red building, where tender beef brisket, smoked sausage, and sliced turkey are served cafeteria style. Of the usual side offerings, you won't want to pass on the tasty coleslaw, which is mixed with chunks of tart green apple. The peach cobbler proved a little too sweet and soggy for our taste Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3. Closed Sat & Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W)
[UPDATE] Republic of Texas 20th floor, Omni Corpus Christi Hotel, 900N Shoreline Dr (361-886-3515). The view? A 10. The food? Pretty close The thick 18-ounce New York strip was the star or our meal--tender and flavorful. The accompanying hashbrowns and steamed asparagus spears in a creamy hollandaise sauce rated high too, Unbelievably, we found room for a piece of chocolate-coated chocolate cake with raspberry sauce and sliced strawberries Bar. Dinner Sun 5:30-9, Mon-Sat 5:30-10. Expensive Cr. (W)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Thai Cottage 5830 McArdle Rd (361-993-0777). We fell in love with a tasty yellow curry on a recent visit to this tiny restaurant with peach and-lime-colored wails Said curry came with while rice, a crisp egg roll, and a tossed salad with peanut dressing. A companions Princess Chicken--sauteed with mushroom, onion, and zucchini--was a trifle bland. Expect a wait at lunch. Beer & wine. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-3. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat...
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