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Article Excerpt
The Filter: Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter: Dining, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
All listed restaurants accept major credit cards unless otherwise noted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Amarillo
BEANS N' THINGS
(New) The name of this old-timer may not suggest barbecue, but order at the counter, take a seat at a family-style table, and you'll find barbecue bliss, especially if you order the two-meat Old-Fashioned BBQ plate. We savored the juicy brisket and gnawed every morsel of our succulent beef rib. The chili is delicious, (add a few green chiles for extra kick). And don't give up your seat before sampling the banana pudding or fresh cobbler. Now serving breakfast. Beer. 1700 E. Amarillo Blvd (806-373-7383). Open Mon-Fri 7 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat 7-6:30. Closed Sun. $ (W+)
CAFE BELLA
Indulge in a fabulous Kobe steak at this stylish spot. Or opt for the pork tenderloin wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon--a hearty dish exalted by a sweet and savory apple and bacon dressing. The special of grilled escolar (a mild Argentine fish) satisfied, but its accompaniments of colorful pineapple-cilantro rice and chimichurri sauce stole the show. Wine. 7306 SW 34th Ave (806-331-2232). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2.'30. Dinner Thur-Sat 5:30-20. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
Austin
ASTI
(Update)
This contemporary neighborhood spot is always filled with good cheer--great for an evening with friends. We added a little luxury to our bread basket with white-bean puree laced with garlic and truffle oil. Our grilled scallops popped with a truffled Meyer lemon relish, but the evening's highlight was the decadent lamb sugo--a deep tomato sauce with tender chunks of lamb and a hint of rosemary; it sent us all into a tizzy. For dessert: yummy vanilla bean gelato splashed with espresso and served with warm cinnamon-sugar beignets. Beer & wine. 408 E. 43rd (512-451-1218). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
THE BELMONT
With its retro Rat Pack/an ambience and sleek, downtown crowd, the Belmont evokes L.A. Prince Edward Island mussels in a lemony broth have made a nice addition to the apps list, as has a new entree of rich, nutmeg-tinged butternut squash ravioli. Less impressive was the lamb T-bone chop, tasting strangely more like beef. Bar. 305 W. 6th (512-457-0300). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Sun-Wed 5-10, Thur-Sat 5-11. $$ (W+)
BOTTICELLI'S
The Michigan-bred Bet/cell/ brothers (Andrew and Matt) and Geoff Nunez, former sous chef at Chicago's Tru, offer a meat- and fish-centric menu at this small yet comfortably open Italian-oriented space. The braised beef brajole, small "cigars" of flank steak around a filling, overcame mundane appearance with good flavor. Flourless chocolate cake matched beautifully with a tangy topping. Bar. 1321 South Congress Ave (512-916-1315). Open Tue & Wed 11-10, Thur-Sat 11-11, Sun 5-10. Sun brunch 11-3. Closed Men. $$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
Former chef David Bull's influence on his protege, Josh Watkins, is not hard to detect. Exquisite attention is paid to a "Bacon and Egg Salad" starter, in which a poached quail's egg balances inside a fried potato ring, while salty, braised kurobuta pork belly adds texture to light, lemony summer mache greens. The historic dining room positively glows. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazes (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Men. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
(Update)
Our L.A. visitor winced but ultimately succumbed to the subtle, pistachio-touched flavor of rattlesnake cakes. Soon she was hooked on the game-accented offerings of this refined ranch house west of Austin. The pairing of venison chops with goat cheese--stuffed Chilean plums created a dish with springtime lightness. The stuffed pheasant with mole seemed comparatively heavy--we would have been happy doubling up on the accompanying pheasant-confit tamale with luscious white chocolate-tomatillo sauce. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
JASPER'S
Dallas chef-owner Kent Rathbun's "gourmet backyard" cuisine has found a stylish home in Austin. The kitchen is turning out the likes of superb smoked baby back ribs and a good pecan-crusted rainbow trout filet with molasses sweet potatoes (like eating dessert first). Bar. The Domain, 11506 Century Oaks Terrace, north of Braker Ln between Burnet Rd and MoPac (Loop 1) (512-834-4111). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11-9. $$-$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
Culinary pleasures await at this unassuming neighborhood locale. Hawaiian red snapper fairly basked in the glow of roasted-pepper-and-Parmesan cream, while an utterly perfect New Zealand lamb T-bone came with an airy mushroom custard and doused in a heavenly blueberry-lavender glaze. Bar. 1204 West
Austin
Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $74). (W+)
LA TRAVIATA
(Update)
Pasta puttanesca is on the menu, but this spot is less harlot and more chic friend. The small tables are tightly spaced, but there is romance at the table for two in the picture window. Sips of effervescent Fallegro cleansed the palate between bites of blue crab and capellini with a luscious, not leaden, sherry cream sauce. A bed of perfect asparagus, fresh peas, and fingerling potatoes cradled a moist filet of halibut, but the sauce, with too much cracked red pepper, seemed incongruous. A stunning panna cotta with blood orange slices was both classic and dramatic-just like the opera. Bar. 314 Congress Ave (512-479-8131). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
MARS
Unwind on the deck of this hip multi-ethnic cafe. Under the oaks, we started well with the smooth, garlicky hummus and an inventive napoleon of peppered goat cheese and roasted red peppers. Unfortunately, our entrees--slightly dry macadamia-crusted trout and an unevenly cooked tandoori mixed grill--weren't in the same league. Bar. 1400 South Congress Ave (512-472-3901). Open Sun-Wed 11-10, Thur-Sat 11-1 a.m. $$ (W+)
NUBIAN QUEEN LOLA'S
In this domain, the subjects are loyal fans of the Queen's Cajun home-style food. Two fried pork chops, with zippy greens and red beans and rice, were a delicious daily deal. The small quarters foster the goodwill Queen Lola extends to all she rules. 1815 Rosewood (512-474-5652). Open Mon-Sat 9-9. Closed Sun. $ (W)
NUNZIA'S
We went right at the Y and found Nunzia's in the former Y Bar and Grill location. Starters come composed like paintings on square black plates-the panko-crusted scallops dazzled us with jicama slaw and fresh pomegranate seeds. An arugula salad, loaded with hearts of palm, had the lightest of lemon dressings. Bar. 7720 Texas Hwy 71W (512-394-0220). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
SALVATION PIZZA
(New)
We're confessing: give us a pizza with a thin crust, a little chew, a lightly charred bottom and we'll eat anything on top. Happily, most of Salvation's toppings exalt its terrific crust. A simple basil and tomato combo, a bit too cheesy, would have been rapture anointed with the savory tomato sauce from the sausage-olive-mushroom pie. Have faith, the white pizza with shrimp and red onions grows on you--enough to have a third slice. The casual, pared-down decor (the former Starlite bungalow) lets hipsters and their parents say grace together. Beer & wine. 624 W. 34th (512-535-0076). Open Tue-Thur 11:30-2 & 4-10, Fri 11:30-11, Sat noon-11, Sun 5-9. Closed Mon. $ (W+)
SAM'S BBQ
Legions regularly queue up for a plastic plate loaded with meat (ribs, brisket, chicken, and sausage, along with outstanding potato salad and routine beans). With a dousing of tomatoey sauce, a slice of white bread, and an ice-cold cola, a barbecue dinner on Sam's funky porch can feel like home. BYOB. 2000 E. 12th (512-478-0378). Open Sun-Thur 10 a.m.-2 a.m., Fri & Sat 10 a.m.-3 a.m. $ (W)
SHORELINE GRILL
(Update)
A plank salmon special stole the show at this upscale spot on the banks of Town Lake. Grilled to moist perfection, the wild fish smelled and tasted of the rugged Pacific Northwest. Creamy mashed potatoes lent a calming effect. The smooth texture of expertly seared tuna worked well as a starter, especially with crunchy Napa ginger slaw. The heavenly finale? A warm, lightly spiced raspberry peach crisp with Mexican vanilla ice cream. Bar. 98 San Jacinto (512-477-3300). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 5-9. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** UCHI
In a word, chef Tyson Cole's carpaccio of sweet black sea bream drizzled with tangy tangerine oil is brilliant. So is his pairing of petite Berkshire pork ribs with a pungent lemongrass-kaffir lime glaze. After such precision, the strongly smoked, sugar-cured hamachi seemed a tad overpowering. Even so, we contend that this mod Japanese venue is the best restaurant in Austin. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
The "McDreamy" of Austin restaurants still charms. An antipasti of buttered crab in a tender artichoke-heart cup was such a scene-stealer that we blew off the accompanying boring salad greens. A risotto special, with a layer of lamb bacon melting in the carnaroli rice, made us sit up and pay attention. The energy and noise level are high, even on weeknights. Bar. 1510 South Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Mon-Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Reservations taken Tue-Thur & Sun until 6:30. $$-$$$ (W)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
BISTRO LE MONDE
Mary and Bryan Lee of reputable Bryan's 797 are dishing up a creative menu at this, their latest venture. French onion soup warmed us up to attack a chipotle-rubbed bone-in Southwest pork chop, accompanied by garlicky wilted spinach and sinful four-cheese macaroni. Large windows and high ceilings add to the atmosphere. Bar. 3199 Dowlen, Beaumont (409-860-5800), Open Mon-Sat 11-10, Sun 11-3. $$ (W+)
ORIGINAL CAJUN COOKERY
(New)
Hurricane Rita left locals and hungry 1-10 travelers with only a shell of this monument to all-you-can-eat seafood. But the original owners have reopened with a more upscale dining area and the same good-quality buffet offering everything from stuffed flounder to crawfish etouffee. The crabs, packed with Cajun-seasoned stuffing and green onions, had us taking multiple platefuls as locals enjoyed mounds of mudbugs and cold beer. Beer & wine. 2308 Lutcher Dr (1-10), Orange (409-670-1000). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. $$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
DRAGONFLY
Served in the traditional pointy clay pot, a Moroccan tagine was this visit's highlight, rich with spiced chicken legs and couscous. Grilled fresh grouper came with a light but spicy olive and artichoke sauce. Family-size sides of crisp green beans and cloud-light potato puffs are so harmonious they could broker world peace. Colorful and casual inside, this bistro is a jewel. Beer & wine. 13925 S. Padre Island Dr (361-949-2224). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Tue-Thur 4-9, Fri & Sat 4-9:30. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W)
LISABELLA'S
(New)
Add this family-owned bistro to your short list for Port A dining. Any meal will go swimmingly if it starts with the intriguing Mermaid Soup,...
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