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Article Excerpt
Amarillo CAFE BELLA
Indulge yourself with a fabulous Kobe steak at this stylish addition to Amarillo's restaurant scene. Or opt for the pork tenderloin wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon; a hearty dish exalted with a sweet and savory Granny Smith apple and bacon dressing. The special mild, grilled escolar (an Argentine fish) satisfied, but its accompaniments of colorful pineapple-cilantro rice and chimichurri sauce stole the show. Main entrance through the alley. Wine. 7306 SW 34th Ave (806-3312232). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Thur-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
KABUKI ROMANZA
(Update) Hungry for Japanese food? This hibachi-style joint serves up the perfect combination of c fresh sushi and classic tableside chop-grill-serve dishes. Come with an appetite; dinners include soup, salad (with a gingery dressing), rice, vegetables, and entree choices of shrimp, chicken, and beef. Our shrimp proved juicy, well seasoned, and cooked to perfection. The sushi bar offers a vast selection of sashimi and sushi rolls, with the modern California roll and the classic nigiri sushi as solid standbys. Add a cup of miso soup swimming with scallions and tofu for a nice treat. Bar. 81301-40W (806-353-4242). Lunch 7 days 11-2:15. Dinner 5un-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. $$ (W+)
Austin
THE BELMONT
(Update) With its retro Rat Packian ambience and sleek, downtown crowd, the Belmont is as close to L.A. as you can get in Austin. Prince Edward Island mussels in a lemony broth have made a nice addition to the apps list, as has a new entree of rich, nutmeg-tinged butternut squash ravioli with sage brown butter. Less impressive was the lamb T-bone chop, strangely more similar in flavor to beef than lamb. The rooftop palm terrace, one of several cocktail areas, now serves a bar menu, making it a good place to temper those martinis. Bar. 305 W. 5th (512-457-0300). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Sun-Wed 5-10, Thur-Sat 5-11. $$ (W+)
BOTTICELLI'S
(Update) SoCo diners have a new option to sate their Italian cravings. The Michigan-bred Boticelli brothers (Andrew and Matt) and Geoff Nunez, former sous chef at Chicago's Tru, offer a meat- and fish-centric menu at this small yet comfortably open space. A starter of salt cod-stuffed piquillo peppers caught our eye; unfortunately, its fishy flavor drowned out the other, subtler tastes. The braised beef brajole, small "cigars" of flank steak around a filling, isn't much to look at, but good flavor and a nice kick from mint made appearance a non-issue. Desserts showed nice creativity: flourless chocolate cake matching beautifully with a tangy yogurt-y topping. Bar. 1321 South Congress (512-915-1315). Open Tue & Wed 11-10, Thur-Sat 11-11, Sun 4-10. Closed Mon. $$ (W+)
CHEZ NOUS
On our midday visit to this informal and authentic French bistro--accents abound-salmon pate made for a light, refreshing starter. While the enormous crepe de fruits de mer contained solely salmon (though lots of it), a divinely punchy sherry cream sauce compensated. Beer & wine. 510 Neches (512-473-2413). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:45-2. Dinner Tue-Sun 5-10:30. Closed Mon. $$-$$$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
(Update) Former chef David Bull's influence on his protege, Josh Watkins, is not hard to detect. Exquisite attention is paid to a "Bacon and Egg Salad" starter, in which a poached quail's egg balances inside a fried potato ring, while salty, braised kurobuta pork belly adds texture to light, lemony summer mache greens. Young Watkins is just as adroit with fish. Pan-seared black bass shingled with paper-thin potato "scales" is pure art. Served with heirloom tomato tartare, it may be the best bass you've ever tasted. The historic dining room positively glows. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 504 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (w+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Though the city has crept closer, magical realism lingers amid the twinkling lights that surround this rambling cottage. We started with smoky escargots floating in a bright lemony soup. Jalapeno grits held up to savory lamb shanks, and the sublime espresso-chocolate-chile-rubbed elk reminded us why this Austin favorite is worth the drive. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 520, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (532-2551369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$
** JEFFREY'S
A bounty of culinary pleasures awaits behind the curtained windows of this unassuming neighborhood locale. Although we found a corn-and-yellow-pepper crab soup lacking the depth we've come to expect from chef Alma Alcocer-Thomas, this was quickly forgotten with the arrival of our entrees: Hawaiian red snapper atop spaghetti Nero with roasted-pepper-and-Parmesan cream, and an utterly perfect New Zealand lamb T-bone plated with an airy mushroom custard and doused in a heavenly blueberry-lavender glaze. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $74). (W+)
JASPER'S
(Update) A first look at Dallas chef-owner Kent Rathbun's "gourmet backyard" cuisine showed far more evidence of the former than the latter in its slick Domain digs. Under the hand of chef Brian Krellenstein, the kitchen is turning out the likes of superb smoked baby back ribs and a good pecan-crusted rainbow trout filet with molasses sweet potatoes (like eating dessert first). Perhaps a new supplier is needed for the striped bass, though; even a macadamia-nut crust couldn't cover a distinct muddy taste. Bar. The Domain, 11505 Century Oaks Terrace, north of Braker Ln between Burnet Rd and MoPac (Loop 1) (512-834-4111). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
MARS
(Update) In a buzzing new SoCo location, this hip multi-ethnic cafe is a great place to unwind after a long day, especially with its varied appetizers and slew of eclectic cocktails. Seated on the broad deck beneath sprawling live oaks, we started with the smooth, garlicky hummus and an inventive napoleon of black pepper-crusted goat cheese stacked with roasted red peppers and portobellos. The spunky ahi tuna tartare, too, had flavor to spare. Unfortunately, the entrees-a slightly dry macadamia-crusted trout and inconsistently cooked tandoori mixed grill-weren't in the same league as the starters. Bar. 1400 South Congress (512-472-3901). Open Sun-Wed 11-10, Thur-Sat 11-1 a.m. $$ (W+)
NUBIAN QUEEN LOLA'S
(Update) In this domain, the subjects are loyal fans of the Queen's Cajun home-style food. They sit at the communal tables and wait patiently for crisp, tempura-light fried shrimp and squares of sweet cornbread. Two fried pork chops, with zippy greens and red beans and rice, were a delicious daily deal, while the macaroni and cheese was better than gold. A heavy hand with the seasoning salt kept us drinking-and making new friends: The small quarters foster the goodwill Queen Lola extends to all she rules. 1815 Rosewood (512-542-5552). Open Mon-Sat 9-9. Closed Sun. $ (W)
NUNZIA'S
We went right at the Y and found Nunzia's in the former Y Bar and Grill location. There are a few lingering favorites--including favorite servers--from the previous occupant, yet there is no menu deja vu. Starters come composed like paintings on square black plates--the panko-crusted scallops dazzled us with jicama slaw and fresh pomegranate seeds. An arugula salad, loaded with hearts of palm, had the lightest of lemon dressings. But, from scallops to steaks, our food was a touch overcooked. A good wine list, fun modern interior, and a great deck on a tree-lined creek kept us from dwelling on the flaws. Bar. 7720 Texas Hwy 71W (512-394-0220). Open 5un-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
SAM'S BBQ
Night owls have flocked to this funky joint for years for their after-hours 'cue fix. Legions regularly queue up for a plastic plate loaded with meat (ribs, brisket, chicken, and sausage, along with outstanding German-style potato salad and routine beans). With a platter of barbecue smothered in tomatoey sauce, a slice of white bread, and an ice-cold cola, a seat on Sam's porch can feel like home. Maybe even better. BYOB. 2000 E. 12th (512-478-0378). Open Sun-Thur 10 a.m.-2 a.m., Fri & Sat 10 a.m.-3 a.m. $
SAZON
The restaurant's interior may be simple, but not the flavors of the interior-of-Mexico pork dishes (we cite the touch of cinnamon in the cochinita pibil and the rich, buttery flavor of the carnitas as key parts of the allure). The mild huitlacoche ("corn fungus") empanadas have admirably flaky crusts. Bar. 1816 S. Lamar Blvd (512-326-4395). Open Mon-Fri 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat & Sun 9-10. $
SOUTH CONGRESS CAFE
The word "cafe" is a bit of a misnomer for this nicely done up restaurant. Southwestern fare dominates the menu, featuring favorites like queso flameado, a melty blend with spicy ground chorizo. On a lighter note, we love the delicate pan-seared rainbow trout in chipotle-lime brown butter. Bar. 1500 South Congress Ave (512-447-3905). Brunch & lunch 7 days 10-4. Dinner 7 days 5-10. $$ (W+)
** UCHI
Some dishes at this contemporary sushi bar and Japanese-fusion restaurant are so brilliant you shut your eyes in delight. One such is chef Tyson Cole's car paccio of sweet black sea bream drizzled with tangy tangerine oil. Another is his petite, meaty Berkshire pork ribs with pungent lemongrass-kaffir lime glaze, a genius pairing. After such precision, the strongly smoked, sugar-cured hamachi seemed a tad overpowering. But overall, criticisms here are minuscule; they evaporate in the glow of an evening at arguably the best restaurant in Austin. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
(Update) The "McDreamy" of Austin restaurants, Vespaio still charms even with other suitors on the scene. An antipasti of buttered crab in a tender artichoke-heart cup was such a scene-stealer that we blew off the accompanying boring salad greens. The oak-fired grilled Gulf shrimp wrapped in prosciutto has become an almost ho-hum combo, but a risotto special, with a layer of lamb bacon melting in the carnaroli rice, made us look twice (farro-crusted olives deftly punctuated the creaminess of the risotto and the richness of the lamb). A boisterous bar scene and bustling dining room keep the energy and noise level up--even on a weeknight. Bar. 1510 South Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Tue-Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Reservations taken Tue- Thur & Sun until 6:30. $$-$$$ (W)
WINK
Tuna tartare with peppy ponzu sauce whetted our appetite for chef Eric Poltzer's tasting menu at petite, sleek Wink. Though the seared crust of the silky day-boat scallops was a tad salty, that was balanced by the excellence of the kurobuta pork crepe in a decadent green-garlic creme. Beer & wine. 1014 N. Lamar Blvd (512-482-88681 Dinner Mon-Wed 6-10, Thur-Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ Call (W+) ahead.
Beaumont-Port Arthur
BISTRO LE MONDE
(Update) Mary and Bryan Lee of reputable Bryan's 797 are dishing up a creative menu at this, their latest venture. French onion soup topped with gruyere and French bread crostini warmed us up to attack a chipotle-rubbed bone-in Southwest pork chop, grilled to perfection and accompanied by garlicky wilted spinach and sinful four-cheese macaroni. Tempted by a range of freshly made desserts, from individual pies to colossal cupcakes, we eventually settled on sweet, gooey pecan pie. High ceilings, large windows, and expansive tables add to the atmosphere. Bar. 3199 Dowlen, Beaumont (409-860-5800). Open Mon-Sat 11-10, Sun 11-3. $$ (W+)
COLICHIA'S ITALIAN VILLAGE
Amid Roman statuary, owner Scott Colichia carries on this family tradition. The hearty Italian Wedding Soup (meatballs, Parmesan, and more) and the Caesar salad made perfect starters, and we also enjoyed the Chicken Colichia, tender sliced breast with artichokes and black olives in a light sherry-brandy cream sauce over linguine. Beer & wine. 5601 E. Parkway, Groves (409-962-7711). Lunch Tue-Fri 11-2. Dinner Tue-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun & Mon. $$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
CAFE AEBY
Cozy Cafe Aeby remains the place for a leisurely, civilized lunch. A recent daily special started with perfect cream of potato soup with leeks and bacon. Next came an entree of Italian sausage perfumed with anise; served with potatoes and cabbage, it was so filling we barely had room for chocolate mousse drowning in raspberry coulis. Beer & wine. The Village, 3819 S. Alameda (361-225-0329). Lunch Tue-Sat 10:30-2:30. Closed Sun & Mon. $-$$ (W)
DRAGONFLY
(Update) Dominique Cordier's international cuisine consistently intrigues. The highlight this time was a Moroccan tagine of spiced chicken legs, vegetables, and couscous served in the traditional pointy clay pot. Grilled fresh grouper with a light but spicy olive and artichoke sauce (with vegetables on rice) combined the familiar with the exotic. Definitely share family-size sides of crisp green beans sauteed in garlic and butter and cloud-light whipped potato puffs with a crisp nutmeg crust; they're so harmonious they could broker world peace. Beer & wine. 13925 S. Padre Island Dr (361-949-2224). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Tue-Thur 4-9, Fri & Sat 4-9:30. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W)
KATZ 21 STEAK AND SPIRITS
This sophisticated downtown venue is special for an upscale lunch or dinner. On a recent visit, the signature Katz Meow Shrimp made a well-seasoned, spicy starter; a companion's shrimp bisque gave reason to purr too. Our main course, curried chicken salad, was savory on a bed of crisp lettuce and tomato. Bar. 317 N. Mesquite at Lawrence (351-884-1815). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-1:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W)
REPUBLIC OF TEXAS BAR AND GRILL
Even if a full moon isn't rising over the bay, the view from this dining room is spectacular. Generous portions of masterfully executed food will also have you waxing poetic. Both a Texas crab cake--with lobster and cognac sauce on a bed of Asian-fusion coleslaw-and the carnitas--tenderloin tips with a spicy chile crust atop caramelized onions and polenta--were bright stars. We skipped the featured steaks in favor of huge, tender pork rib chops in an apple-ginger reduction. Lovely. Bar. 900 N. Shoreline Dr (351886-3515). Dinner Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5:30-9. $$$-$$$ (W+)
THAI SPICE
Paul, the host, extends a warm welcome to this family-owned downtown restaurant. Our choices from chef Penee's extensive menu...
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