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Article Excerpt
The Filter: Dining
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Filter: Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter: Dining, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
All listed restaurants accept major credit cards unless otherwise noted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
CISSI'S MARKET
Beware, or you will blow your whole lunch hour nibbling and shopping at this new gourmet grocery. Our first-visit sandwich (stacked with marinated grilled eggplant and prosciutto and accented with herbed ricotta) ensured a return trip. The next day, we assembled lunch from the order-by the pound case, seduced by truffle-sparked whipped sweet potatoes with chevre, a caramelized onion stuffed with smoky bacon and blue cheese, and edamame salad accented with shaved fennel, a nice surprise. We're hooked. 1400 South Congress Ave (512-225-0521). Open Mon-Sat 7 a.m.-9 p.m., Sun 7-6. $-$$ (W+)
KONA GRILL
Like the loud pop music playing, Kona Grill is catchy but not terribly complex. Even so, the menu's all over the map. A mellow sliver of yellowtail anchored a thoughtful sushi sampler--which surprisingly proved to be a highlight. Macadamia-crusted chicken, leaning against a mound of mashed potatoes, was fusion comfort food (it will help you forget the large shopping bill you racked up just walking through the stylish new Domain shopping mall). Plenty of booths make the space seem less cavernous but do little to buffer the dance-club noise level. Showy but sloppy service reinforces the youthful vibe. Bar. The Domain, 11410 Century Oaks Terrace, north of Braker between Burner Rd and MoPac (Loop 1) (512-835-5900). Open Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. $-$$$ (W+)
NUNZIA'S
We went right at the Y and found Nunzia's in the former Y Bar and Grill location. There are a few lingering favorites--including favorite servers--from the previous occupant, yet there is no menu deja vu. Starters come composed like paintings on square black plates--the panko-crusted scallops dazzled us with jicama slaw and fresh pomegranate seeds. An arugula salad, loaded with hearts of palm, had the lightest of lemon dressings. But, from scallops to steaks, our food was a touch overcooked. A good wine list, fun modern interior, and a great deck on a tree-lined creek kept us from dwelling on the flaws. Bar. 7720 Texas Hwy 71W (512-394-0220). Open Sun-Thur 21-20, Fri & Sat 11-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
STEEPING ROOM
It takes a real he-man to eat a sandwich with the crusts cut off, but what the beck. The roast beef with caramelized onions and roasted red peppers is delicious. Along with salads, a cheese plate, a Mediterranean sampler, and yogurt and granola, this light-filled store and cafe offers dozens of exotic teas. Several Austin bakeries supply fine breads, cakes, and scones. The informative tea list (will it be black, green, red, or white?) is fun to read while sipping a cup. Beer & wine. The Domain, 11410 Century Oaks Terrace, north of Braker between Burnet Rd and MoPac (Loop 1) (512-977-8337). Open Mon-Sat 10-9, Sun noon-6. $ (W+)
Dallas
FERNANDO'S
Modern art graces the walls of the airy room--not your typical Tex-Mex ambience. Although combination platters abound, dishes with a more interior, Mexico City sophistication spice up the options. We chose tilapia chilango--a grilled filet topped with a red-chile sauce and plated with slivers of assorted grilled vegetables and rice dotted with peas and carrots. The tres leches cake was so moist you could almost drink it, and the notable wine list includes a handful of Mexican vintages. Bar. 4347 Northwest Hwy (Loop 12) at Midway Rd (214-351-9010). Open 7 days 11-10. $$ (W+)
PARK CITIES PRIME
Austin stone and dark wood create a warm, cozy (though slightly cramped and noisy) setting at this swanky new steakhouse. Menu embellishments include a special house salad dotted with blue cheese and slices of Bosque pear, lobster bisque happily enhanced with a splash of brandy, and toasted-onion rolls. Both the baseball-cut tenderloin and the mansize--and Midas-priced--bone-in ribeye delivered on flavor, texture, and preparation. The only drawback was that our overeager server tried to sell us everything but life insurance. Bar. 8411 Preston Rd at Northwest Hwy (Loop 22) (224-591-7763). Dinner Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
Houston
CANTINA LAREDO
This Dallas-area franchise operation seems to have found a happy home in Houston. One of us had a Tex-Mex fix with beef-fajita-filled quesadillas, but the rest chose the restaurant's self-described "gourmet Mexican": freshly made, shrimp-loaded ceviche and a shrimp-stuffed grilled chicken breast topped with sauteed spinach, mushrooms, and a chipotle wine sauce. The warmly lit space with cozy booths attracts everyone from mingling happy-hour singles to celebrating families. Next time, we intend to investigate the tequila menu. Bar. 11129 Westheimer Rd (713-952-3287). Lunch 7 days 11-3. Dinner Sun-Wed 3-10, Thur-Sat 3-11. Reservations accepted. $-$$ (W+)
LA VISTA
Go early. The second location of casual La Vista doesn't take reservations, and now that Memorialites have found it, waits happen. We finally gave up trying to count the number of superb steamed mussels in a generous appetizer, and we likewise failed to guess the weight of a monster salmon filet that completely covered its bed of sauteed spinach. The lively apricot and cherry sauce made up for an only-adequate beef tenderloin. Despite a short wine list, La Vista's much loved bring-your-own-bottle policy is still in effect. Beer & wine or BYOB (corkage fee). 22555 Memorial Dr near Sam Houston Tollway (713-973-7374). Dinner Sun-Thur 5.30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. $$-$$$ (W+)
San Antonio
CHEF CHAN TEA HOUSE
The dining room is sparsely furnished, the first language of most of the servers is not English, and you might miss the dish of your dreams because it's one of those mysterious specials posted only in Chinese characters. But for authentic Chinese seafood (including dim sum made to order), this Loopland room is clearly the best around. Tanks filled with lobsters, mussels, and clams ensure freshness we had lobster in a spicy, garlicky XO sauce (which we assume did not mean "hugs and kisses"). The eggplant in a clay pot, with its rich, stewlike brown sauce, proved surprisingly velvety; the spicy beef sizzling plate with black-bean sauce, another order-to-taste item, was tender and flavorful. 5545 NW Loop 410 at Evers (220-.509-7298). Open Sun-Thur 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10. $-$$ (W+)
SILO ELEVATED CUISINE
See Pat's Pick, page 159. Bar. 434 N. Loop 1604W, east of Blanco Rd (210-483-8989). Lunch 7 days 11-3. Dinner 7 days 5-11. Reservations recommended Fri & Sat. $$$ (W+)
Amarillo
ANTONIO'S
This cozy bistro offers Italian classics and some modern dishes: crisp Caesar salad, fried calamari, pasta, and veal or chicken Marsala. If you prefer salmon, try the Vesuvio with a rich, tangy balsamic glaze. Another specialty is the tiramisu--light on the espresso, not too sweet, fabulously creamy. A guitarist plays unobtrusive Sinatra-esque tunes. Beer & wine. 2734 Westhaven Village (806-331-4996). Dinner Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun & Mon. $$ (W+)
CAFE BELLA
(Update) Indulge yourself with a pricey but fabulous Kobe steak at this stylish addition to Amarillo's restaurant scene. Or opt for the pork tenderloin wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon; a hearty dish exalted with a sweet and savory Granny Smith apple and bacon dressing. The special mild, grilled Argentine fish satisfied, but its accompaniments of colorful pineapple-cilantro rice and chimichurri sauce stole the show. Wine. 7306 SW 34th Ave (806-331-2232). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Thur & Fri 5:30-10. Closed Sat & Sun. $$ (W+)
Austin
CHEZ NOUS
On our midday visit to this informal and authentic French bistro--accents abound-salmon pate made for a light, refreshing starter. While the enormous crepe de fruits de mer contained solely salmon (though lots of it), a divinely punchy sherry cream sauce compensated. Beer & wine. 510 Neches (512-473-2413). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:45-2. Dinner Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. $$-$$$ (W)
CIPOLLINA
(Update) The famed dell case has vanished from this sparsely appointed neighborhood bistro, but you can still order to go, and with delectable new menu additions, patrons hardly leave disappointed. We started with a fresh margherita pizza--perhaps not adventurous, but worth every bite. We couldn't decide which of our entrees was better: the juicy braised lamb panino with thin-sliced meat, balsamic onions, and melted provolone on a toasty bun, or the tender pork piccata smothered in a tart lemon caper sauce over al dente orzo. Beer & wine. 1213 West Lynn (512-477-5211). Open 7 days 11-10. $-$$ (W)
CISSI'S MARKET
See New + Noteworthy, page 160.
** DRISKILL GRILL
Our most recent meal turned out to be a farewell to chef David Bull, who has departed for a new venture. We will remember fondly his audaciously presented beef tartare with willowy fried sobu noodles and a layer of sprightly, wasabi-dusted tobiko caviar. His main course was a heavenly pairing of crisp, perfectly rare duck medallions with a unique apple-raisin hollandaise. Next month, we look forward to greeting recently promoted head guy Josh Watkins. His new direction should be fascinating. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Though the city has crept closer, magical realism lingers amid the twinkling lights that surround this rambling cottage. We started with smoky escargots floating in. a bright lemony soup. Jalapeno grits held up to savory lamb shanks, and the sublime espresso-chocolate-chile-rubbed elk reminded us why this Austin favorite is worth the drive. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 520, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
(Update) A bounty of culinary pleasures awaits behind the curtained windows of this unassuming neighborhood locale. Although we found a corn-and-yellow-pepper crab soup lacking the depth we've come to expect from chef Alma Alcocer-Thomas, this was quickly forgotten with the arrival of our entrees: Hawaiian red snapper atop spaghetti Nero with roasted-pepper-and-Parmesan cream, and an utterly perfect New Zealand lamb T-bone plated with an airy mushroom custard and doused in a heavenly blueberry-lavender glaze. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $74). (W+)
KONA GRILL
See New + Noteworthy, page 160.
LAMBERTS DOWNTOWN BARBECUE
At this uptown barbecue-steakhouse venue you can get big, gnawable beef ribs and a velvety porterhouse steak along with vegetables sides like chickpeas mixed with goat cheese and caramelized onions. Recently, though, the shredded-beef salpicon was clumpy and had way too many burnt ends (tasty, yes, but not so appealing when they're lukewarm). Enjoy it all in a rustic downtown building. Bar. 401 W. 2nd (512-494-1500). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2. Dinner 7 days 5:30-11. Sun brunch 11-3. $$-$$$ (W+)
NUNZIO'S
See New + Noteworthy, page 160.
SAM'S BBQ
(Update) The experience is half of the appeal at this funky East Austin institution, where night owls have flocked for years for their after-hours 'cue fix. Legions regularly queue up for a plastic plate loaded with meat (ribs, brisket, chicken, and sausage, along with outstanding German-style potato salad and routine beans). With a platter of barbecue smothered in tomatoey sauce, a slice of white bread, and...
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