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Article Excerpt
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good rest aurant.
All listed restaurants accept major credit cards unless otherwise noted. Prices represent atypical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine. cocktails, tax, and tip,
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call a head. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
LAMBERTS DOWNTOWN BARBECUE
See Pat's Pick, page 153. Bar (until 2 am) 401 W. 2nd (512-494-1500). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2, Dinner 7 days 5;30-11. Sun brunch 11-3. $$-$$$ (W+)
THE WOODLAND
You can almost catch the scent of fresh-cut wood amid the leafy hues and rustic shingles. Our friendly lumberjack-dressed waiter served us shredded-pork empanadas with tangy cilantro sauce while we waited for the signature chicken potpie. Under a buttery crust, it brimmed with chicken, peas, and carrots in a creamy sauce (although we did notice that some pies had more peas than chicken, while others were light on the carrots). We hardly had room, but we did manage a bite of the dreamy coconut cream pie. Bar. 1715 S. Congress (512-441-6800). Dinner Tue-Sun 5-11. Brunch Sat & Sun 10-3. Closed Mon. $ (W+)
Dallas
LIBERTINE BAR
An array of beers (many organic), ales (Belgian among them), and ciders, plus excellent food, distinguishes this Lower Greenville newcomer. Beer-braised beef short ribs are served with roasted root vegetables, and a wood-grilled herbed pork loin chop comes atop polenta with shallots and mushrooms braised in (what else?) beer. Both will warm you up when the cold weather gets you down. Mussels are available four different ways--we enjoyed them steamed in Hoegaarden White ale with orange juice and ginger. Bar. 2101 Greenville Ave (214-824-7900). Open Mon-Fri 4 p.m.-2 a.m., Sat & Sun noon-2 a.m. Sun brunch noon-3. $$ (W+)
TILLMAN'S ROADHOUSE
The Bishop Arts District's venerable anchor restaurant has been transmogrified into a magnet for trendsetters. We were rendered speechless by pine plank walls, damask fabrics, faux trophy heads, and crystal chandeliers. The menu, under the hand of prominent chef Dan Landsberg, ranges from honey-and-lavender-glazed salmon to venison Frito pie. An appetizer of trout cakes on toasted-almond and herb salad preceded a flavorful chicken-fried hanger steak on buttermilk mashed potatoes with poblano gravy. So far, so good, but we're still trying to wrap our mind around it all. Bar. 324 W. 7th (214-942-0988). Open Mon 11-2, Tue-Fri 11-10, Sat 10-2 & 5:30-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
Houston
AKA JAPANESE CUISINE
Westsiders no longer need venture far to find fine restaurants of every ilk. A case in point is this Japanese jewel with dramatic details like a lovely water wall. Artfully presented appetizers--a pretty plate of beef cerpaccio and a little fried "sandwich" of tempura-battered shiso leaves encasing minced shrimp and mushooms--utterly satisfied one of us, while pan-browned sea bass over bok choy pleased another. Not only that, our sushi lover raved about the quality of his maguro (tuna), anago (sea eel), and tai (red snapper). Bar. 1460 Eldridge Pkwy (281-558-8900). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11, Sun noon-10. Reservations accepted. $$$ (W+)
LODGE AT BAYOU BEND
This new resident in the Rainbow Lodge's old digs has rustic charm, but the ambitious fare seems uneven. Our intensely flavored pumpkin bisque with foie gras creme fraiche and duck prosciut-to-wrapped grissini (breadsticks) could not have been richer or more satisfying. We'd also give high marks to fork-tender roasted pork medallions with jalapeno-duck-sausage hollandaise, cheddar biscuits, and braised chard. A lump crab cake, though, proved rather wet with buttermilk atoll. Bar. 1 Birdsail (713-868-4444). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Sun brunch 11-2:30. Closed Mon. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
MAX'S WINE DIVE
Elevated but well-priced comfort food with a capital C, available with fine wine until the wee hours at a no-frills little cafe--what's not to like? One of our friends had Boston lettuce loaded with blue cheese, lardons of pancetta, a cute fried quail egg, and creamy buttermilk-beer dressing--the wedge salad has never been so classy. We reveled in perfect cornmeal-crusted shrimp on cheesy baked grits, but the rather flavorless pan-roasted barramundi (a white fish) sided by a mix of calypso beans and tough merguez lamb sausage struck us as a dish in search of a concept. Expect noise and crowds. Beer & wine. 4720 Washington Ave at Shepherd (713-880-8737). Open Sun, Tue & Wed 5-midnight, Thur-Sat 5-2 a.m. Closed Mon. Reservations accepted. $$-$$$ (W+)
MINT CAFE
We liked the city-slick interior of glass, tile, and leather, and the warm welcome of the staff as much as the food itself. One of us made a meal of a sampler of appetizers including Lebanese favorites: falafel, kibbeh, stuffed grape leaves, fried goat cheese, and spinach pies that resemble hushpuppies. The other enjoyed a bountiful kebab plate with kafta--seasoned ground beef that tasted like an Arabic hamburger--or so we imagine. Liquor license pending. 2800 Sage (713-622-3434). Open Mon-Sat 11-11, Sun 11-5. Reservations accepted $$ (W+)
OPORTO CAFE AND WINE BAR
This casual neighborhood favorite offers fine Mediterranean tapas that friendly waiters keep coming, along with a nice selection of wines. Our foursome happily shared a classic tapas plate of mixed olives and marinated cheese cubes, another of fresh, lean prosciutto, mortadella, salami, and mozzarella, then tried plump spiced ground beef empanadas. Our only disappointment? Dry, overcooked paella. Beer & wine. 3833 Richmond Ave (713-621-1114). Open Mon-Wed 8-10, Thur & Fri 8-midnight. Closed Sun. Reservations accepted. $$ (W+)
San Antonio
SOUTHTOWN CAFE
This care, housed in a defunct convenience store-gas station and owned by the catering company Everybody's Business (which specializes in food delivered to corporate offices), deserves notice beyond its south-of-downtown neighborhood. Ten tiny tables, a couple of eye-catching abstract canvases, and a selective menu of breakfast frittatas and popovers and lunchtime dell sandwiches, specials, and desserts combine for limited, quirky, and satisfying meals. One such noontime special, a beautifully presented salmon cake loaded with flavor and texture, elicited raves. We'll be back to try one of the monthly "destination dinners," which in the past have featured Puerto Rican and Greek cuisines, and Crab Cake Night. Beer & wine. 1127 S. St Mary's (210-224-9811). Open Mon-Fri 7-4. Dinner first Fri of month 5-9 (reservations recommended). Closed Sat & Sun. $-$$ w
The Filter: Dining
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Filter. Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodeditor@toxasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter: Dining Box 1569, Austin. Texas 78767.
Amarillo
LINCOLNS
Whether seeking an option for a quiet lunch, a group dinner, or a friendly drink, Lincolns is the place. Among the many great selections, we liked the wedge of iceberg lettuce with extra-chunky blue cheese dressing sprinkled with diced tomatoes, and the sea bass Veracruz--flaky and flavorful. The focaccia with honey butter is irresistible too. Food arrives on handsome square white plates, and sorbet is served between courses. Bar. 4000 U.S. 40W (806-352-1498). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
OHMS CAFE AND BAR
Update
This wonderful downtown spot offers a varied I lunch buffet, tapas on Wednesday evenings, and exceptional weekend dishes. Start with New York strip satay with peanut sauce--an unusually nice meat for this Thai dish. For fish lovers, the lightly seasoned grilled salmon is the perfect choice, but if your tastes bend towards unadorned beef, you'll fancy the ribeye. Satisfy your sweet tooth with the chocolate turtle tart. Live piano music on weekends is a nice touch. Bar. 619 S. Tyler (806-373-3233.) Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-1:30. Dinner Wed-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. Dinner reservations recommended. $$ (W+)
Austin
BESS BISTRO
Celebrated Austin-area resident Sandra Bullock owns this cozy spot. In the intimate dining room, French bistro and contemporary American dishes share menu space. Semolina-crusted artichokes arrive with crunchy fried spinach dusted in grana padano cheese. The breaded pork tenderloin is served with a dried-cherry sauce. Only the desserts seemed a tad mundane. Bar. 500 W. 6th (512-477-2377). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-4. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat 5-11 (light food until "late"). Closed Sun. $$$-5555 (W+)
CIBO
It's hard not to split an appetizer of the fabulous potato gnocchi with brown butter every time, but branching out will net you the fine fegatini (liver pate) with golden raisins or one of the excellent risottos. "Big plates" bring the likes of a tender grilled bone-in pork chop with rosemary-seasoned roasted potatoes and tightly sauteed rapini. At this trattoria in a rock-walled downtown building, owner and chef Will Packwood is introducing Austin to the flavors of his childhood summers in Italy; many are familiar, others a bit different (the organ-meat offerings being a case in point). Expect to have your eyes opened. Beer & wine. 918 Congress Ave (512-478-3663). Open Mon-Fri 7 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Sat 5-10:30 Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
DIN HO CHINESE BBQ
Banish your sympathy for the roasted ducks (do not think "Daffy") hanging above the chopping block.
They're tasty, if inevitably fatty. Din Ho is one of Austin's more authentic Chinese venues. The seafood combo entree in a zippy house sauce boasted tender scallops, shrimp, and jaw-working squid, all nestled among beautifully prepared vegetables. Beer. 8557 Research Blvd (512-832-8788). Open Men-Sat 11-12:30, Sun 11-9:30 $-$$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
Three exemplary courses featured maestro Darid Bull's vision in all its practiced precision. The smooth servers happily obliged our schizophrenic food whims, which included following a first course--knots of Spanish anchovies cleverly tied around manchego cheese and white asparagus--with a second of succulent miso-glazed Kubota pork belly. The lovely historic dining room always soothes. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 504 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
FLIP'S SATELLITE CAFE
This modest Oak Hill outpost is tucked into a shady corner of a sprawling strip mall. Grilled-vegetable quesadiflas are served California style--jam-packed with crunchy broccoli, asparagus, and peppers, while the smoked-turkey club comes on focaccia. Beer & wine. 7101 Texas Hwy 71W (512-301-1883). Open Sun- Thur 8-9, Fri & Sat 8-10. $-$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Chasing the sun beyond the outskirts of town is worth the effort to visit this cozy cottage. The kitchen amazed us with a Maine-lobster-and-chipotle-butternut-squash bisque. Then, after a stacked salad of arugula, caramelized pear, blue cheese, and fig chutney, we savored tenderloin smothered in jalapeno hollandaise. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Men 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
We're still on cloud nine--and that cloud is made of perfectly whipped vanilla-bean mashed potatoes! of course, the accompanying melt-in-your-mouth tenderloin could easily stand on its own. Also worth mentioning are the succulent spare ribs slow-cooked pot-roast-style with a decadent balsamic reduction and served with carrots and potatoes in a mini-skillet. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (5 courses $74). (W+)
JIM BOB'S BARBECUE
A favorite stop for hunters heading west for weekend game, this Western-style trading post serves up some serious breakfast tacos. Add any number of ingredients to the basic scrambled eggs (from bean and cheese to fajitas and came guisada). Pile on some smoked brisket for a real stick-to-your-ribs breakfast. Texas Hwy 71 and Bee Caves Rd (512-263-3041). Open Mort-Sat 5:30 a.m.-3 p.m, Sun 8-2. $ (W+)
LAMBERTS DOWNTOWN BARBECUE
See Pat's Pick, page 153.
MI COLOMBIA
The little bungalow, fans whirring overhead, amiable staff, and no-hurry service contribute to a genuine South American experience. From an authentically meat-centric menu, try the hearty portion of tender sobrebarriga a la criolla, or the lightly fried pescado frito, served whole. Most of the sides, particularly the crispy cut green beans, were excellent. Beer & wine. 1514 E. 7th (512-391-0884). Open Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-6. Closed Mon. $ (W+)
TOME SUSHI
Update
Compared to nearby cavernous competitors, this small, hip North Austin space feels exclusive (read: you may have a good wait for a table or the sushi bar). Don't be tempted to order a mediocre American appeaser like the ribeye--the name is Tomo Sushi, after all. The salmon with citrusy yuzu and soy sauces and the buttery escolar tomoviche with sea salt, yuzu, and a dab of spice were refreshing starters. While the Honey Roll--soft, sweet, fried--wasn't anything special, the dangerously irresistible Ex-Girlfriend Roll--spicy tuna balanced by mild halibut tempura and a sweet sauce--cinched a return visit. Beer, wine & sake. 4101 W. Parmer (512-821-9472). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat noon-10. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
** UCHI
Our hearts go pitter-pat at the thought of desserts from pastry chef Phillip Speer. Of course, every bite preceding said marvels was what you would expect from avant-garde Japanese chef Tyson Cole. Savory white soy sauce perfectly accented toro sashimi with Marcona almonds and tangy cranberries, while the decadence of hanger steak with uni butter felt criminal. Even so, dessert proved the coup d'etat. Each morsel of Valrhona chocolate with wasabi fondant made us giddy. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (522-925-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
It's not surprising this bistro commands a 35-minute wait at nine o'clock. With few exceptions, the food is impeccable. A case in point: oven-roasted king-trumpet and white-button mushrooms sauteed in molted Gorgonzola and served with crispy polenta batons. As fantastic as they were, the plate's tangy watercress side salad almost stole the show. Bar. 1510 5. Congress Ave (512-441-5100). Dinner Tue-Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Reservations taken Tue-Thur & Sun until 5:30. $$-$$$ (W+)
THE WOODLAND
See New + Noteworthy, page 154.
Beaumont--Port Arthur
BRYAN'S 797
Update
With its intimate setting in a Victorian-style house in Old Town, Bryan's is more upscale than 99 percent of the restaurants within a hundred-mile radius of Beaumont. To start, we enjoyed a soothing bowl of cream of spinach soup topped with ground roasted peppercorns. Don't pass over the blue-crab cakes loaded with succulent lump crabmeat. The Chilean sea bass in a fresh tomato and basil sauce, served with a green salad decoratively drizzled with mustard and raspberry sauces, is a refreshing choice. Save room for...
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