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Article Excerpt
Blanco
UPTOWN BLANCO ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT RESTAURANT
Just when we were mourning the closure of Blanco's Hardscrabble Cafe, along comes this welcome replacement. Replete with a pressed-tin ceiling and hardwood floors, it occupies one of several elderly buildings that are getting extreme makeovers. From chef Scott Boone's ambitious menu, we dined on a creditable venison tenderloin with calvados demi-glace. Just as nice was jasmine-leafmarinated duck breast with a spunky apricot-dried cherry chutney. In fact, the only problematic dish was the odd combo of lightly breaded, nicely pan-fried chicken breast stacked on fried green tomatoes and butter beans, all topped by (go figure) lump crabmeat. Beer & wine license pending. 317 Main (830-833-0738). Open Fri 5-9, Sat 9-9, Sun 9-3. Closed Mon-Thur. $$-$$$ (W)
Corpus Christi
GREEN PAPAYA
Here's a delightful recent addition to the local dining scene, with a large variety of Vietnamese and other Asian offerings. We found no fault with the Signature Salad--finely julienned green papaya under thin strips of tasty grilled beef seasoned with fresh herbs and topped with crushed roasted peanuts. Tempura shrimp with wasabi dip only added to our positive feelings. The grilled snapper filet in a snappy garlic-lime sauce and the ga cari--thin slices of chicken breast sauteed with carrots and onions in yellow curry--made it official: We'll be back. BYOB. 4455 S. Padre Island Dr (362-851-0544). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-3. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W)
Dallas
KOZY CAFE
Curled up on one of the cafe's comfy sofas with the New York Times spread out on a coffee table, we felt like we were eating at home. The panseared diver scallops--served up on a "flat egg" (like a pancake) along with tomato slices and a small orb of goat cheese--turned out to be an exotic choice that made for a most agreeable brunch. We were even inspired to try one of the gluten-free offerings--a slice of carrot cake that proved remarkably satisfying. BYOB. 4433 McKinney Ave (214-219-5044). Open Mon-Fri 7-7, Sat 9-4, Sun 9-2. $-$$
RIO GRANDE TEX MEX
Although not many surprises are left in Tex-Mex food, we were completely happy with a lunch consisting of a chicken enchilada and a chicken flauta plus moist rice and admirably goopy beans. An extra order of guacamole rounded out the meal, and for dessert we made room for Rio Grande's dense flan. It's always pleasant dining in the sunny, Saltillo-tiled room. BYOB. 5954 Royal Ln at Preston Rd, southwest corner (214-363-2870). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. $-$$ (W)
El Paso
LA HACIENDA
Rejuvenated by new owners, this charming restaurant sits in a historic building on the banks of the Rio Grande. The interior is lovely, but the large patio is the real gem, with a brightly painted, smiling sun face framed by a tall arch and three large iron bells. The bar, below an awning, is margarita-perfect. Start with the warm crab, artichoke, and jalapeno dip, followed by beer-braised brisket tacos or beef salpicon. Bar. 1720 W. Paisano (915-533-1919). Open Mon-Sat 11-10, Sun 10-5. $$ (W)
Fort Worth
GLORIA'S
This Dallas-based Mexican restaurant has finally opened a Cowtown edition, welcoming crowds to an alfresco dining area and indoor margarita bar. The menu runs Tex-Mex combos alongside Salvadoran favorites of shrimp, fish, and steak. The carne flameada featured slices of tender grilled beef (or chicken) topped with sauteed onions, mushrooms, and melted cheese. The Tex-Mex combo number two arrived loaded with hot, perfectly fresh spinach and chicken quesadillas, a chicken tostada, a beef enchilada, and chile con queso, plus rice and beans. They don't want you to go away hungry. Bar. 2600 W. 7th (817-332-8800). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $-$$ (W)
Houston
AMICI
Even inner-loopers are flocking to Sugar Land's gem of a town square, now that it's home to restaurateur Jeff Vallone and chef Bruce McMillian's ambitious new undertaking. The decor is eclectic, to say the least (formal wood paneling and blue neon). If weather permits, the glass doors are opened and you can enjoy the sights and sounds of the square. The food is straightforward (but never boring) Italian--try the pasta with fantastic lump crab or the grilled shrimp with tomatoes, basil, and red and green peppers. Finish with a slab of cheesecake (made from a Vallone family recipe). Bar. 16089 City Walk Dr, Sugar Land (281-242-2800). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-13, Sun 11-9. Reservations accepted. $$-$$$ (W+)
BLUEFIN
Silver-bead curtains and a swanky lounge make a posh statement in an unlikely suburban center. Appropriately, the elegant food fits the decor. Case in point--tuna tartare with Parmesan shavings served in a martini glass. The bento plates were pretty as well, with seaweed-sprinkled rice, miso soup with orzo, and perfectly prepared vegetable tempura. Teriyaki ribeye scored high marks, but blackened snapper tasted too fishy to be appealing. Bar. 12225 Westheimer Rd (282-493-1244). Open Mon-Wed 11-11, Thur & Fri 11-midnight, Sat noon-midnight. Closed Sun. Reservations accepted. $$-$$$ (W)
EXIBIT STEAKHOUSE
This snakebit location might recover, if Exibit continues to cook better than it spells. We like the comfy booths, soft lighting, and warm tones. And we were equally happy with our menu choices, from a rich tomato-basil cream soup with lumps of crab, a starter of very rare ahi tuna with ginger soy sauce, and spinach salad with raspberries and bacon in poppy seed dressing. Also great: Cowboy Ribeye (though shame on them for charging $3 more for a peppercorn crust) and grand thin-crisp onion rings in a tangy barbecue sauce. Bar. 4611 Montrose Blvd (713-529-4611). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-1:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W)
San Antonio
GRILL AT LEON SPRINGS
See Pat's Pick, page 131. Bar. 24116 I-10W at Boerne Stage Rd exit (210-698-8797). Lunch 7 days 11:30-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9:30. $$-$$$ (W+)
Amarillo
ACAPULCO
Murals, a fountain, even Sunday-afternoon mariachis invite you to the new downtown location. The huevos rancheros are a good choice for Sunday brunch. We also like the caldo de camarones, a delightful soup brimming with shrimp in a light broth flavored with fresh tomatoes and cilantro. Bar. 727 S. Polk (806-373-8889). Open Mon-Thur 9-10, Fri & Sat 9-midnight, Sun 11-6. $-$$ (W+)
LINCOLNS
(Update) Whether seeking an option for a quiet lunch, a group dinner, or a friendly drink, Lincolns is the place. Among the many great selections, we liked the wedge of iceberg lettuce with extra-chunky blue cheese dressing sprinkled with diced tomatoes, and the F:\IMAGES\10_DAY\0201\1337\FEB0007\0123.JPGsea bass Vera Cruz--flaky and flavorful. The focaccia with honey butter is irresistible too. Fond arrives on handsome square white plates, and sorbet is served between courses. Bar. 4000 W. 1-40 (805-352-1498). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
Austin
BESS BISTRO
Celebrated Austin-area resident Sandra Bullock owns this cozy spot. In the intimate dining room, French bistro and contemporary American dishes share menu space. Semolina-crusted artichokes arrive with crunchy fried spinach dusted in grana padano cheese. The breaded pork tenderloin is served with a dried-cherry sauce. Only the desserts seemed a tad mundane. Bar. 500 W. 6th (512-477-2377). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-4. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat 5-11 (light food until "late"). Closed Sun. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
CIBO
(Update) It's hard not to split an appetizer of the fabulous potato gnocchi with brown butter every time, but branching out will net you the fine fegatini (liver pate) with golden raisins or one of the excellent risottos. "Big plates" bring the likes of a tender grilled bone-in pork chop with rosemary-seasoned roasted potatoes and lightly sauteed rapini. At this trattoria in a rock-walled downtown building, owner and chef Will Packwood is introducing Austin to the flavors of his childhood summers in Italy; many are familiar, others a bit different (the Extreme Eaters menu being a case in point). Expect to have your eyes opened. Beer & wine. 928 Congress Ave (512-478-3563). Open Mon-Thur 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri 7:30-10:30, Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
DIN HO CHINESE BBQ
Banish your sympathy for the roasted ducks (do not think "Daffy") hanging above the chopping block. They're tasty, if inevitably fatty. Din Ho is one of Austin's more authentic Chinese venues. The seafood combo entree in a zippy house sauce boasted tender scallops, shrimp, and jaw working squid, all nestled among beautifully prepared vegetables. Beer. 8557 Research Blvd (512-832-8788). Open Mon-Sat 11-12:30, Sun 11-930. $-$$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
Three exemplary courses featured maestro David Bull's vision in all its practiced precision. The smooth servers happily obliged our schizophrenic food whims, which included following a first course--knots of Spanish anchovies cleverly tied around manchego cheese and white asparagus--with a second of succulent miso-glazed Kubota pork belly. The lovely historic dining room always soothes. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
FLIP'S SATELLITE CAFE
This modest Oak Hill outpost is tucked into a shady corner of a sprawling strip mall. Grilled-vegetable quesadillas are served California style--jam-packed with crunchy broccoli, asparagus, and peppers, while the smoked turkey club comes on focaccia. Beer & wine. 7101 Texas Hwy 71 W (512-301-1883). Open Sun- Thur 8-9, Fri & Sat 8-10. $-$$ (W+)
GALAXY CAFE
Grilled pork chops were satisfying and tender, with more sweet than heat in the chipotle-apricot glaze, and the spinach salad was chock full of candied walnuts and bacon. This little place used to house our laundromat, but we don't mind the loss. BYOB. 1000 West Lynn (512-478-3434). Open 7 days 7 a.m.-10 p.m. $ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Chasing the sun beyond the outskirts of town is worth the effort to visit this cozy cottage. The kitchen amazed us with a Maine-lobster-and-chipotle-butternut-squash bisque. Then, after a stacked salad of arugula, caramelized pear, blue cheese, and fig chutney, we savored tenderloin smothered in jalapeno hollandaise. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
(Update) We're still on cloud nine--and that cloud is made of perfectly whipped vanilla-bean mashed potatoes! Of course, the accompanying melt-in-your-mouth tenderloin could easily stand on its own. Also worth mentioning are the succulent spare ribs slow-cooked pot-roast-style with a decadent balsamic reduction and served with carrots and potatoes in a mini-skillet. A well-balanced cheese plate with fruit gelee made the evening complete. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$ (5 courses $74). (W+)
JIM BOB'S BARBECUE
(Update) A favorite stop for hunters heading west for weekend game, this Western-style trading post serves up some serious breakfast tacos. Add any number of ingredients to the basic scrambled eggs (from bean and cheese to fajitas and carne guisada). Pile on some smoked brisket for a real stick-to-your-ribs breakfast. Texas Hwy 71 and Bee Caves Rd (512-263-3041). Open Mon-Sat 6:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Closed Sun. $ (W)
MI COLOMBIA
The little bungalow, fans whirring overhead, amiable staff, and no-hurry service contribute to a genuine South American experience. From an authentically meat-centric menu, try the hearty portion of tender sobrebarriga a...
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