|
Article Excerpt
The Filter: Dining
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Filter: Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter. Dining, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant. ** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant. * One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
All listed restaurants accept major credit cards unless otherwise noted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12 $$ $12-$30 $$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and rest rooms are accessible.
(W) Call a head. with advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
BESS BISTRO
Celebrated Austin-area resident Sandra Bullock has finally opened her eagerly anticipated bistro. In the intimate, cozy space, executive chef Brenton Childs sends out an eclectic array of French bistro and contemporary American dishes. Semolina-crusted artichokes arrive with plenty of crunchy fried spinach dusted in grana padano cheese. The pan-seared-and-breaded pork tenderloin, a minor tour de force, is topped with sour apples and a dried-cherry sauce and served with German potato cakes. We love the Bess a la Carte list of mouthwatering sides, like caramelized cauliflower and homemade applesauce. Only the desserts seemed a tad mundane. Bar. 500 W. 6th (512-477-2377). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-4. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat 5-11 (light food until "late"). Closed Sun. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
CIBO
See Pat's Pick, page 133. 918 Congress Ave (512-478-3553). Open Mon-Sat 7 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
CURACAO BLUES
Finding Dragonfly's tiny dining room filled recently, we ventured into chef Dominique Cordier's new adjacent tapas bar. Here the menu is filled with mouthwatering small plates. We left fully satisfied after sharing generous bagna cauda (roasted garlic cloves in a buttery spread touched with anchovies), a giant crab cake served with aioli on coarsely cut jicama slaw, and fork-tender baby pork shanks cooked in wine and served with red-onion jam. Bar. 13923 5. Padre Island Dr (361-949-2224). Dinner Thur 4-9, Fri & Sat 4-9:30. Closed Sun- Wed. $$ (W+)
Dallas
BIJOUX
The name Bijoux ("jewels" in French) aptly describes chef Scott Gottlich's newcomer. It is intimate and remarkably laid-back for an upscale place. His skills, honed in some of New York's legendary French restaurants, yield starters like deboned quail stuffed with forest mushrooms. Exemplary sliced beef tenderloin was plated with veal jus and truffled potato puree. Pineapple financier, an elaborate composed dessert, included almond cake sided with Cabernet-poached pineapple. Bar. Inwood Village, back side, 5450 W. Lovers Ln (214-350-6100). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. $$$$ (prix fixe $52 & $65). (W+)
COAL VINES
Baked in a coal-fired oven, the pizzas here have crusts that are moist inside, crisp outside. The good news is that there's more to this informal pizza place than the trendiness of its Uptown location. The skin on our wild striped bass filet allowed our angler companion to authenticate the identity of the delicious grilled fish. A fine salad of romaine hearts was finished off with crushed pepper and lemon vinaigrette. Beer & wine (until 2 a.m.). 2404 Cedar Springs at Maple (214-855-4999). Open Mon-Wed 11-midnight, Thur & Fri 11-1, Sat S-1, Sun 11-10. $$ (W+)
RED'S PATIO GRILL
Kick back, with or without the kids, at this new Piano spot. Red's Cowboy Meatloaf sandwich with caramelized onions on a toasted panino roll--accompanied by a mammoth pile of french fries--left us stuffed. But we're glad that we indulged in the white chocolate-croissant bread pudding accented with huge chunks of dried apricots. Bar. 4005 Preston Rd, Piano (469-229-0098). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $-$$ (W+)
Houston
BISTRO TOULOUSE
Tucked away near a busy Tanglewood intersection, this tranquil retreat offers handsome interiors and a menu of sandwiches, salads, and fine entrees. Our lunch on the sun-drenched patio one mild day was lovely. Perfectly pan-seared tuna, with a sassy Creole rub, and green beans in vinaigrette with wasabi aioli earned high praise. Ditto the Scuba Sandwich with shrimp, bacon, and tarragon butter sauce. Beer & wine. 5780 Woodway (713-977-6900). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10. Sun brunch 10-3. $$-$$$ (W+)
EL TIEMPO CANTINA
Rustic beams, copper pots, and photos of founder and patron saint Ninfa--not to mention the addictive green dipping sauce--quickly identify this newcomer as part of the Laurenzo empire. After downing too many chips, we indulged further in Ninfa's ultimate legacy--tacos al carbon--along with a giant poblano chile relleno and a chunky pork tamale smothered in chile gravy. Bar. 5502 Washington Ave (713-681-3645). Lunch 7 days 11-3. Dinner Sun-Tue 3-9, Wed & Thur 3-10, Fri & Sat 3-11. Breakfast Sat & Sun 9:30-1. $$ (W+)
Lubbock
LA DIOSA
We shared a sampling from the tapas-style menu of this coolly eclectic bistro, which also offers some entree-size items, wraps, and panini. We loved the Mediterranean salad--a perfect balance of feta, peppers, olives, and a tangy vinaigrette. The Besitos, bubbling with fiery cheese and sweet-hot jalapenos, rounded out a substantial meal. Creme brulee was appropriately creamy but rather tasteless. Next time, back to the coconut cake. Wine. 901 17th (806-744-3600). Open Tue-Fri 11-midnight, Sat noon-1. Closed Sun & Mon. $$ (W+)
San Antonio
20NINE RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR
Instead of a single wine with dinner, why not three wines in petite portions? Here, the staff will select the label and type to suit your meal. You'll even receive a descriptive postcard-size memento of what you had. That's one attraction. Another is the up-to-date menu, with tender pistachio-crusted lamb chops and seared duck breast on mushroom risotto. Elegant wooden tables and a modern ambience complete a pleasant picture, but the undertrained servers need help. Beer & wine. Quarry shopping center, 255 E. Basse Rd (210-798-9463). Open Sun-Thur 4-11, Fri & Sat 4-midnight. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
Amarillo
ACAPULCO
(Update) Hand-painted murals, a central fountain, even Sunday-afternoon mariachi band invite you to Acapulco's new downtown location. The huevos rancheros are a good choice for Sunday brunch. We also like the caldo de camarones, a delightful soup brimming with shrimp in a light broth flavored with fresh tomatoes and cilantro. The gordita plate--an array of small masa pancakes filled with tender, juicy chicken--is a special treat. Bar. 727 5. Polk (805-373-8889). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-midnight, Sun 11-6. $-$$ (W+)
BIG TEXAN STEAK RANCH
Saddle up and join the crowd at Bob Lee's ongoing Texas legend. Famous for its 72-ounce-steak challenge, the Big Texan also satisfies those with less gargantuan appetites, offering a variety of steaks including a tasty 16-ounce sirloin. The chicken-fried steak comes with mashed potatoes and cream gravy. Bar. 7701 E. I-40 (805-372-5000). Open 7 days 7 a.m.-10:30 p.m. $-$$$ (W+)
Austin
BESS BISTRO
See New + Noteworthy, page 134.
CIBO
See Pat's Pick, page 133.
DIN HO CHINESE BBQ
(Update) Banish your sympathy for the roasted ducks (do not think "Daffy") hanging above the chopping block. They're tasty, if inevitably fatty. Din Ho is one of Austin's more authentic Chinese venues. The enormous bowl of hot-and-sour soup was the bargain of the year ($5), and the seafood combo entree in a zippy house sauce boasted tender scallops, shrimp, and jaw-working squid, all nestled among beautifully prepared vegetables. Beer. 8557 Research (512-832-8788). Open Mon-Sat 11-midnight, Sun 11-9:30. $-$$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
(Update) Pity the sous-chefs painstakingly building such complex morsels far away from the spotlight that shines on executive chef (and Iron Chef contestant) David Bull. Three exemplary courses featured the young maestro's vision in all its practiced precision. The servers, smooth and unhurried, happily obliged our schizophrenic food whims, which included following a first course--knots of Spanish anchovies cleverly tied around manchego cheese and white asparagus--with a second of succulent miso-glazed Kubota pork belly. Perhaps the micro-greens or mini cheese fricos in most of the dishes tied it all together. The lovely historic dining room always soothes. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7152). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EL GRINGO
An original and interesting bill of fare with Mexican touches (from the El Chile folks) belies the retro diner informality. Best dish tried on chefs Kristine Kittrell and Jeff Martinez's menu: nicely flavored seared steak with a salad of nopales (fresh cactus strips). In dire need of reworking: a clunky fried seafood platter. Bar. 1917 Manor Rd (512-391-9500). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 11-3. $$ (W+)
FLIP'S SATELLITE CAFE
(Update) This modest Oak Hill outpost of South Austin's popular Flipnotics Coffee Space is tucked into a shady corner of a sprawling strip mall. Grilled-vegetable quesadillas are served California style--jam-packed with crunchy broccoli, asparagus, peppers, mushrooms, and carrots. Crisp bacon provides a nice counterpoint to the spongy focaccia on a smoked-turkey club. Salads are fresh and abundant, enhanced by snappy dressings like ginger soy, Thai peanut, and buttermilk ranch. Beer & wine. 7101 Texas Hwy 71W (512-301-1883). Open Sun-Thur 8-9, Fri-Sat 8-10. $-$$ (W+)
GALAXY CAFE
We hope the trend toward transforming West Austin neighborhood laundromats into casual, family-friendly eateries won't force the washer-and-dryerless among us to constantly purchase new clothes. On the other hand, when the food is this fresh and fast, who minds? Grilled pork chops were satisfying and tender, with more sweet than heat in the chipotle-apricot glaze, and the spinach salad was chock full of candied walnuts and bacon. BYOB. 1000 West Lynn (512-478-3434). Open 7 days 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m. $ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
(Update) Chasing the sun to the outskirts of town is worth the effort at this cozy cottage. Chef Jeff Blank's kitchen amazed us with a Mainelobster-and-chipotle-butternut-squash bisque--heaven with each swallow. Following a complex salad of stacked caramelized pear, blue cheese, fig chutney, and arugula, we savored beef tenderloin smothered in jalapeno hollandaise with (more) lobster. A hand-poured Zinfandel glaze, dark and delicious, elevated the surf and turf to gourmet class. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 520, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
Executive chef Alma Alcocer-Thomas ably fills the shoes of former chef David Garrido. Her seared foie gras served atop an olive oil cake with bits of black fig in a cherry demi deserves nothing short of a standing ovation. Flaky Alaskan halibut with citrusy lime risotto hits all of the right notes at this venerable but stylish Austin haunt. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (5 courses $74). (W+)
MI COLOMBIA
(Update) The cozy bungalow, fans whirring overhead, amiable staff, and no-hurry service contribute to a genuine South American experience. From an authentically meat-centric menu, try the hearty portion of tender sobrebarriga a la criolla, or the lightly fried pescado frito, served whole. Though the fried plantains were more fried than plantain and the salad was routine, all other sides, particularly the crispy cut green beans, were excellent. Beer & wine. 1614 E. 7th (512-391-0884). Open Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-5. Closed Mon. $ (W+)
SOUTHSIDE FLYING PIZZA
There's a lot of buzz about this pizzeria, and although it's a total...
|
