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Article Excerpt
Austin
THE BELMONT
You almost expect Frankie, Dean, and Sammy to be laughing it up in one of the tall, dark, and handsome booths. Yet another of Austin's retro restaurants, the Belmont is such a magnet for trend-conscious clubgoers that the menu hardly matters. Besides, how excited can you get about comfort food (wedge salad, meatloaf with gelatinous brown gravy)? Best of a lunch visit was chef Benjamin Nathan's moist, yummy roast chicken on a chopped salad with sprightly red-wine vinaigrette. Conclusion: Stick with the simple stuff. Bar (until 2 a.m.). 305 W. 6th (512-457-0300). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner 7 days 5-10. $$ (W+)
EL GRINGO
June and Ward Cleaver should be at the door of this casual spot with paint-by-number-type art on the walls. But surprise, surprise: An original and interesting bill of fare with Mexican touches (from the El Chile folks) belies the diner informality. Best dish tried on chefs Kristine Kittrell and Jeff Martinez's menu: nicely flavored seared steak with a salad of nopales (fresh cactus strips). Next: duck-leg confit, a little bland but tender, with fabulous buttery mashed sweet potatoes. In dire need of reworking: a clunky fried seafood platter. Bar. 1917 Manor Rd (512-391-9500). Open Tue-Fri 11-2 & 6-10, Sat 5-10. Closed Sun & Men. $$ (W+)
FIRST CHINESE B-B-Q
We might work up the nerve to try the marinated pork intestine, but this time the duck-and-wonton soup seemed more tempting at this spot in the new Chinatown Center. Wontons, stuffed with pork and shrimp, vied for deliciousness with roast duck leg in an anise-laced broth. Crisp tofu squares, with a soft, sweet middle, were an unusual delight. The gummy clams were also gritty, but their serrano-studded black-bean sauce rocked. This vast Asian complex also has a bubble-tea cafe, a Vietnamese sandwich shop, and a pho outlet. BYOB. 10901 N. Lamar Blvd (512-835-8889). Open 7 days 11-9:30. $ (W+)
Dallas
GRILL ON THE ALLEY
The Galleria's new upscale dining room has siblings in Hollywood, Beverly Hills, and Chicago. A wall of vodka bottles (arrayed on racks, like fine wine) dominates the room, and jazz plays at a tease-the-ear level. As for the food, crusty wheat bread provides a vehicle for roasted red and green peppers with red onions and cilantro; it makes a crisp counterpoint to the tomatoey Manhattan-style clam chowder. Our entr6e, a double-cut lamb chop, came with a wonderful minty jus. Bar. 13350 N. Dallas Pkwy, south end of the Galleria (214-459-1601). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 10-10. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
NOW
Watch for blue umbrellas. This old house is hard to find, but don't give up, because it's worth the search. The wood-fired pizzas looked tempting, but we rightly opted for grilled pork tenderloin, moist with morel cream sauce and sided with mashed potatoes that had been studded with chunks of lobster. The creme brulee is nothing short of terrific, and the whole atmosphere is quite family friendly. Bar. 2704 Worthington at Howell (214-855-5050). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3. Dinner Men-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
SOCIAL
You get a gratis serving of intrigue along with your New American cuisine at this mysterious restaurant and bar (you enter off an alley). We slipped into a burgundy-colored booth in the low-lit dining room and ordered a plank of red snapper. It was so fresh it tasted like a fish that Dad might have pulled from the water and flipped on the grill, although dear ol' Dad would probably not have served his filet with lemon-thyme sauce, stem-on baby carrots, saffron rice, and jalapeno cornbread. Bar. 6101 Hillcrest, back side of Hotel Lumen (214-219-8282). Dinner 7 days 5-10. $$-$$$ (W+)
El Paso
CASABLANCA ECLECTIC CUISINE
An intimate setting accented with antique chandeliers and polished wood floors, this new restaurant offers a classic Mediterranean menu including, as appetizers, prosciutto-wrapped asparagus and lamb kebabs. No soups or salads, but the entrees are filling. Pork loin served atop roasted potatoes and scallops with risotto was divine. Beer & wine. 1319 Montana (915-351-6615). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Wed & Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
Fort Worth
JACK'S OFF THE WALL
A pleasant makeover has brought in lots of light and handsome furniture, which is set against brick and stucco walls hand-painted with drink recipes. The wide range of offerings should please those who just can't decide what they want to eat. After devouring the crisp, beer-battered-onion rings, we savored the goat-cheese ravioli swimming in a rich tomato cream sauce. Grilled meatloaf served with smashed new potatoes and haricots verts also commanded raves from our table. Live music Thur-Sat. Bar. 2731 White Settlement Rd (817-850-9955). Open Mon-Wed 11-10, Thur-Sat 11-2 a.m. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
Houston
CATALAN
See Pat's Pick, page 195. Bar. 5555 Washington Ave (713-426-4260). Open Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Sun brunch 11-3. Closed Men. $$-$$$ (W+)
PK'B BLUE WATER GRILL
Washed in the deep blue shades of the sea, this casual spot shows all signs of success even though others have failed in the same location. The fresh, chilled campechana seafood cocktail served in a sundae glass didn't disappoint. Neither did the perfectly prepared grilled trout, though it was nearly upstaged by excellent green beans (saut6ed with bacon and tomatoes) and dirty rice with spinach and shrimp. Equally arresting, fried oysters clad in crispy cornmeal were silky smooth inside. Alas, the poor poblano corn chowder was beyond bland. Bar. 6401 Woodway (713-339-3663). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11-9. $$-$$$ (W+)
Amarillo
LEAL'S
The traditional flavors of Mexico are alive and well at this welcoming, well-decorated spot. New--and worthy--menu staples include avocado enchiladas with a Hatch chile-queso sauce and brisket tacos served with guacamole and charro beans. Beef eaters, stick with the aged, mesquite-grilled ribeye. Bar. Wellington Square, 1519 S. Kentucky (806-359-5959). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
MACARONI JOE'S
After a brief closure (following a change in ownership), Macaroni Joe's has reclaimed its place as one of the best restaurants in town. And the proof, should you need it, is in the likes of fried green tomatoes, a salad with warm pinon nut-crusted goat cheese, tender grilled chicken with bowtie pasta in an asiago cheese sauce, and sinful chocolate mousse. Bar. Wellington Square, 1519 5. Kentucky (806-358-8990). Open Mon-Fri 11-2 & 5-10, Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. $$$ (W+)
Austin
ARTZ RIB HOUSE
Trust the name and order the ribs (there's a reason this laid-back, quintessentially Austin spot isn't called Artz Sausage House or Chicken House). The menu declares the country-style pork ribs "famous," but we're partial to the baby back variety, nicely charred and plenty sweet. And do have the bread pudding a la mode. Beer & wine. 2330 S. Lamar Blvd (512-442-8283). Open Mon-Sat 11-10, Sun noon-9. $$ (W+)
BELMONT
See New + Noteworthy, page 196.
BLUE STAR CAFETERIA
A cafeteria it's not, although this retro-trendy, instantly popular west side cafe touches some of the same bases. Eddie Bernal, owner of 34th Street Cafe, and chef Lorie Lawler have kicked comfort food up a notch. The crunchy cod (topped with cornflakes) with sweet-relish tartar sauce comes with excellent al dente carrots and fresh green beans, while a huge slab o' meatloaf with mashed spuds sports an odd sweet gravy, rather like thick French onion soup. Chopped Caesar salad was 50-50, fried artichoke hearts with anchovy aioli excellent. The place can be deafening when busy. Beer & wine. 4800 Burnet Rd (512-454-7827). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 10-10. Brunch Sat & Sun 10-3. $$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
When so much work goes into the amuse-bouche (two lovely sweet, winey gelees, plum and pluot), you can only imagine the complexity of the main menu. We loved wee tentacles of baby octopus in a dense, green, herbal chimichurri with diced Granny Smith apples and orange vinaigrette (great contrasts of texture and flavor). Ditto skate sauteed in classic brown butter with almonds and grapes, Veronique-style, on Spatzle. Luscious. By contrast, prawns and Spanish chorizo just sat there. The old-fashioned dining room gleams. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-9:30. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EL GRINGO
See New + Noteworthy, page 196.
FINO
Our new favorite appetizer at this Mediterranean restaurant is new chef James Moore's Spanish white gazpacho (a sweet, silky purse of almonds and bread) with grapes. We also loved the Moroccan vegetable tajine with sweet potato, eggplant, and squash in a delicate broth with raisin couscous--a fragrant, light entree. Everybody seems to be having fun in the twin rooms, with their bright banquettes. Bar. 2905 San Gabriel (512-474-2905). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
FIRST CHINESE
See New + Noteworthy, page 196.
FONDA SAN MIGUEL
For a change, we chose two of the simplest dishes, tacos al pastor and a chimichanga. Four medium-sized tacos came filled with well-seasoned shredded pork and nuggets of pineapple on a pretty platter. Our friend's fine, light pork-filled chimichanga was encased in a toasty fried flour tortilla. The lovely setting evokes Old Mexico. Bar. 2330 W. North Loop (512-459-4121). Open Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Sun brunch 11-2. 55-$$$ @9
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
We were sorry to see the evening come to a close at this twinkle-lit cottage near the lake. The game menu inspired by chef-owner Jeff Blank is the draw, but seafood shines too. A starter of crepes filled with chunks of lobster, shrimp, and crawfish impressed. Our velvety medium-rare tenderloin came topped with scallops and barbecued shrimp in a rosemary butter sauce. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
Update
Executive chef Alma Alcocer-Thomas not only fills the shoes of former chef David Garrido but sometimes spills right out of them. Her seared foie gras served atop an olive oil cake with bits of black fig in a cherry demi deserves nothing short of a standing ovation. Flaky Alaskan halibut with citrusy lime risotto hits all of the right notes, while a new bistro section of the menu offers such favorites as Kobe hanger steak with pommes frites and roasted-shallot butter. A comforting but inventive creme brulee trio--maple, plum, Earl Grey--sums up Alcocer-Thomas's approach at this venerable but stylish Austin haunt. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (5 courses $74).
MIRABELLE
A quiet table in the back room proved to be a smart move; we could talk and enjoy the lively tunes from the jazz ensemble. Our friend raved about the grilled beef tenderloin (velvety pink) with Cabernet-veal jus, but we were most impressed by the delectable pan-seared walu (a thick Hawaiian butter fish). Beer & wine. 8127 Mesa Dr (512-346-7900). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
SUNFLOWER
Update
Informal yet inviting, this unpretentious Vietnamese restaurant offers numerous authentic dishes in heaping portions at affordable prices. Dainty rice paper-wrapped spring rolls burst with fresh mint, while pungent basil heightens the flavor of a beef-and-basil stir-fry. Fragrant lemongrass tofu melts on your tongue. Dainty tumeric-tinged crepes come filled with mung bean sprouts, fresh mint, and your choice of meat or shrimp. They're best when the kitchen isn't rushed and can make them nice and thin. Beer. 8557 Research Blvd (512-339-7860). Open Sun-Mon & Wed-Sat 10-10. Closed Tue. $ (W+)
TACO XPRESS
Hooray--Taco Xpress is back and better than ever. Only yards from its original location, the new, roomier indoor-outdoor space still has its eclectic array of Mexican folk art and funky local graffiti. Choose from a short list of taco, enchilada, and gordita plates, including tender polio guisado and savory tacos al pastor. Beer & margaritas. 2529 S. Lamar (512-444-0261). Open Mon 7 a.m.-3 p.m., Tue-Thur 7 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri T-10, Sat 8-9, Sun 9-3. Cash only. $ (W+)
** UCHI
Update
Yes, you can do raw seafood, like the silky sea bass with grapeseed oil, garlic, and pepper in an orange vinaigrette--a delicate, flash-marinated "ceviche." Or you can go with a turf-and-turf of duck breast with rabbit confit and find out how the lighter, leaner rabbit contrasts with the earthier, fattier duck, rare and perfectly tender; an accompanying grilled peach goes beautifully with both. Chef Tyson Cole's genius for combinations is ably matched by dessert maestro Philip Speer's, whose brilliant, icy pepper sorbet, with bay leaf and thyme, has a lingering finish like a fine wine. Crowds dig the hot red floral wallpaper and cool taupe sushi bar. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
Update
We arrived early, snagging a window table to watch the evening crowd swarm this SoCo staple. The silky smooth sweet-corn passato with a cambazola cheese crostino left us wanting more, but the al dente mezzaluna pasta (filled with braised veal, roasted garlic, and prosciutto di Parma) arrived in time to tempt us in a different direction. We ended with the...
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