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Organic grapes, organic wine: the harvest is bountiful, but the labeling controversy is still fermenting.

Publication: E
Publication Date: 01-NOV-06
Format: Online - approximately 2805 words
Delivery: Immediate Online Access

Article Excerpt
In just eight years, Robert Sinskey's vineyards grew from 15 to 100 acres. But the expansion masked a problem: Sinskey's vineyards were in decline. The fruit just wasn't ripening, and he suspected it was related to the soil, which looked fractured and bare. "We felt something had to be wrong...

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...with the basic practices of modern farming," he says.

Sinskey switched to organic farming in 1990, slowly phasing out synthetic herbicides on his grapes until 2001 when he became a certified organic grower. His productive vineyards now cover 200 acres on six different properties. But while every grape in his Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot wines are organic, not a single bottle carries the U.S. Department of Agriculture's green-and-white "USDA organic" label.

Organic grapes do not necessarily make organic wines. An organic vineyard is not the whole story; the process in the winery must be organic, too. Sinskey labels his wines "made with organic grapes" instead of "certified organic" because he, along with almost every other winemaker in the world, adds a small amount of sulfites, a preservative that prevents oxidation and bacterial spoilage. In America, wines with added sulfites cannot display the "USDA organic" label, even when the grapes are 100 percent organic. Complicating the issue is the fact that, although commercial sulfite is an additive, sulfite naturally results from yeast fermentation during wine production.

U.S. sales of certified organic wine and those made with organic grapes hit $80 million last year, rising 28 percent since 2004, according to the Organic Trade Association (OTA). Today, wine enthusiasts buy nearly twice as much organic wine as they did in 2003. The association says it expects organic wine sales to grow about 17 percent each year through 2008.

The California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), the largest certifying body in the state, inspects 20 wineries and 8,000 acres of grapes. Organic grapes account for less than two percent of California's 550,000 total grape-growing acres. Jake Lewin, director of marketing for CCOF, says there is increasing interest in both organic grapes and organic winemaking. The number of certified organic acres, however, is growing faster than the number of certified organic wineries.

To Be or Not to Be Organic

What is, and what is not, an organic wine remains a confusing subject for consumers and a source of heated debate for industry experts. Winemakers who add sulfites believe that farming practices, such as removing herbicides and pesticides from the vineyard, should determine whether or not a wine is labeled organic. Others are...

NOTE: All illustrations and photos have been removed from this article.



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