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Article Excerpt
Dallas
BARCELONA
The offerings could be straight from Spain at this charming spot with its bright-yellow-and-cream interior. We began with gazpacho--almost a purge of the traditional ingredients--served in a shot glass. Polio a Vast is chicken breast and thigh, simply rotisserie-cooked with sauteed apples and a "secret sauce"; it was light and delicious. What else for dessert but crema catalana, a creamy custard rather like brulee with lemon accents. Family-friendly atmosphere. Bar. 11909 Preston Rd at Forest Ln (972-239-2442). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11:30. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
CENTRAL 214
See Pat's Pick, page 187. Bar. Hotel Palomar, 5680 N. Central Expy (U.S. 75) (214-443-9339). Breakfast Mon-Fri 7-10:30. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3. Dinner Men-Wed 5-10 & Thur-Sun 5-10:30. Sat & Sun brunch 8-3. $$-$$$ (W+)
MANSION ON TURTLE CREEK
The lovely dining room has changed little, but new chef John Tesar's menu--that's another story. An appetizer of hamachi crudo (uncooked Japanese amberjack) was as innovative as it was pleasant, with Lilliputian blood-orange slices and a Thai basil salad. We were also quite taken with an entree of wild striped bass, with crunchy chive Spatzle and a covey of hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. The meal's real "wow"? A perfect passion fruit souffle sided by mango ice cream and tropical fruit that had apparently been diced by elves. Bar. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd (214-559-2100). Breakfast Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 7-11. Lunch Men-Sat 21:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11, Sun 6-9:30. Sun brunch 11-2 (prix fixe $38). Reservations & jacket required. $$$$ (W+)
MARDI GRAS
There is a sense of chaos barely under control here, but not to worry. The drinks are ample and the food is delicious, especially the andouille-and-chicken gumbo and the dense meat loaf with skin-on mashed potatoes and brown gravy. The blues jam session was spirited and exciting; other nights offer karaoke and stand-up comedy. Bar. Stemmons Towers South, 2720 N. Stemmons Fwy (I-35E) (214-634-9669). Open 7 days: breakfast 7-9, lunch 11-2, dinner 5-9. $-$$ (W+)
YUTAKA SUSHI BISTRO
Stealth Japanese bistro flies beneath Uptown radar. This newcomer has only 10 seats at the sushi bar and 22 at a handful of tables, but aficionados are heading its way. The Rainbow Roll--tuna, salmon, white fish, and avocado--offered freshness, full flavor, and color. Black cod--a treat rarely seen outside Japanese restaurants--was plated with a light raise sauce. Wine & beer. 2633 McKinney Ave at Boll (214-969-5533). Lunch Tue-Sat 11:45-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:45-10, Fri & Sat 5:45-11. Closed sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
Houston
MAK CHIN'S
Styling itself an "Asian bistro" and serving drinks like Won Me Mojito, this casual new freestanding spot, just south of 1-10, is yet another entry in Houston's multicultural mix. We loved its vintage Chinese pin-up posters and declared our mojitos and bellinis tasty, if low-voltage. Plump pork and vegetable egg rolls were wrapped in bacon (flavors are geared toward American tastes) and served with a velvety duck sauce. We had finished a tangy mango sweet-and-sour chicken entree before our harried server arrived with slivered pork, bell pepper, jicama, and mushrooms in garlic sauce. Bar. 1511 Shepherd Dr (713-861-9888). Open Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. $$-$$$ (W+)
TART CAFE
Located in a building that houses art galleries, this little counter-service care makes a pleasant stop before or after a visit to the Museum District. We went for one of the tarts and were pleased with the tomato, pesto, and mozzarella version in an herb-tinged crust. Ditto a steaming bowl of chicken soup and a spinach salad (with chevre and balsamic vinaigrette). Beer & wine. 4411 Montrose Blvd (713-526-8278). Open Mon-Fri 8-6, Sat 8-3. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
Lubbock
MELT RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE
A fine restaurant and lounge under one roof, Melt is a first for Lubbock. The main room is a showcase of contrasts, with each uniquely designed wall accented with dark wood trim. We were impressed with the appetizers, especially the potato-wrapped shrimp (a ribbon of shoestring potatoes encircling succulent crustaceans, quickly fried and served with a sweet-and-sour dipping sauce). Our peppered top sirloin had a marvelous smoky flavor and went well with a nicely seasoned spinach side dish. Bar. 1711 Texas Ave (806-587-2034). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
San Antonio
LUCIANO AT THE STRAND
From the first aromatic sip of Zenato Ripassa di Valpolicella at the bar to an equally robust dessert torta featuring Venezuelan El Rey chocolate and whipped mascarpone, full flavors rule. Combining Italian and Mexican ingredients with classic techniques, chef Jesse Perez makes his mark with confidence, as in a vitello "barbacoa"-stuffed ravioli afloat in a delicate tomato-and-serrano-chile cream sauce. The dining room has a sophisticated look, in neutral colors with a contemporary, rather Tuscan air. Bar. 11255 Huebner Rd (210-561-9700). Lunch Men-Sat 11-2:30. Dinner Mon-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
TURQUOISE TURKISH GRILL
Turquoise has moved to an airy new space, bringing along its full Turkish menu and its Saturday belly dancer. One dish you must have is the mixed appetizer plate--a half-dozen or so exotic treats with nary a dud among them, from baba ganouj and tabouleh to Turkish potato salad and grilled eggplant. Main courses emphasize lamb and beef, in chunks or ground, in an array of skewered meats and stews, most served with tomatoes, peppers, and red onions. A favorite? The eggplant stuffed with ground beef. Beer & wine. 3720 NW Loop 410 at Fredericksburg Rd (210-736-2887). Open Mon-Fri 11-2:30 & 5-10, Sat & Sun 11-10. $$ (W+)
Amarillo
BIG TEXAN STEAK RANCH
(Update)
Saddle up and join the crowd at Bob Lee's ongoing Texas legend along historic Route 66 (which parallels 1-40 along much of its path). Check your ride into the horse hotel (yes!), grab a seat, and settle in for a Texas-size experience. Famous for its 72-ounce-steak challenge, the Big Texan also satisfies those with less gargantuan appetites, offering a variety of steaks including a tasty 16-ounce sirloin. The chicken-fried steak comes with mashed potatoes and cream gravy just like Mom used to make. Plain old-fashioned carrot cake is always a pleasant finale. Bar. 7701 E. I-40 (806-372-6000). Open 7 days 7 a.m.-10:30 p.m. $-$$$ (W+)
MACARONI JOE'S
After a brief closure (following a change in ownership), Macaroni Joe's has reclaimed its place as one of the best restaurants in town. And the proof, should you need it, is in the likes of fried green tomatoes, a salad with warm pinon nut-crusted goat cheese, tender grilled chicken with bowtie pasta in an asiago cheese sauce, and sinful chocolate mousse. Bar. Wellington Square, 2619 5. Kentucky (806-358-8990). Open Mon-Fri 11-2 & 5-20, Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. $$$ (W+)
Austin
ARTZ RIB HOUSE
Trust the name and order the ribs (there's a reason this laid-back, quintessentially Austin spot isn't called Artz Sausage House or Chicken House). The menu declares the country-style pork ribs "famous," but we're partial to the baby back variety, nicely charred and plenty sweet. And do have the bread pudding a la mode. Beer & wine. 2330 5. Lamar Blvd (512-442-8283). Open Mon-Sat 11-10, Sun noon-9. $$ (W+)
THE BELMONT
You almost expect Frankie, Dean, and Sammy to be laughing it up in one of the tall, dark, and handsome booths. Yet another of Austin's retro restaurants, the Belmont is such a magnet for trend-conscious clubgoers that the menu hardly matters. Besides, how excited can you get about comfort food (wedge salad, meatloaf with gelatinous brown gravy)? Best of a lunch visit was chef Benjamin Nathan's moist, yummy roast chicken on a chopped salad with sprightly red-wine vinaigrette. Conclusion: Stick with the simple stuff. Bar (until 2 a.m.). 305 W. 6th (512-457-0300). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner 7 days 5-10. $$ (W+)
BLUE STAR CAFETERIA
A cafeteria it's not, although this retro-trendy, instantly popular west side care touches some of the same bases. Eddie Bernal, owner of 34th Street Cafe, and chef Lorie Lawler have kicked comfort food up a notch. The crunchy cod (topped with cornflakes) with sweet-relish tartar sauce comes with excellent al dente carrots and fresh green beans, while a huge slab o' meatloaf with mashed spuds sports an odd sweet gravy, rather like thick French onion soup. Chopped Caesar salad was so-so, fried artichoke hearts with anchovy aioli excellent. The place can be deafening when busy. Beer & wine. 4800 Burnet Rd (512-454-7827). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 10-10. Brunch Sat & Sun 10-3. $$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
When so much work goes into the amuse-bouche (two lovely sweet, winey gelees, plum and pluot), you can only imagine the complexity of the main menu. We loved wee tentacles of baby octopus in a dense, green, herbal chimichurri with diced Granny Smith apples and orange vinaigrette (great contrasts of texture and flavor). Ditto skate sauteed in classic brown butter with almonds and grapes, Veronique-style, on Spatzle. Luscious. The old-fashioned dining room gleams. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-9:30. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EL GRINGO
June and Ward Cleaver should be at the door of this casual spot with paint-by-number-type art on the walls. But surprise, surprise: An original and interesting bill of fare with Mexican touches (from the El Chile folks) belies the diner informality. Best dish tried on chefs Kristine Kittrell and Jeff Martinez's menu: nicely flavored seared steak with a salad of nopales (fresh cactus strips). Next: duck-leg confit, a little bland but tender, with fabulous buttery mashed sweet potatoes. In dire need of reworking: a clunky fried seafood platter. Bar. 1917 Manor Rd (512-391-9500). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 11-3. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
FINO
Our new favorite appetizer at this Mediterranean restaurant is new chef James Moore's Spanish white gazpacho (a sweet, silky purge of almonds and bread) with grapes. We also loved the Moroccan vegetable tajine with sweet potato, eggplant, and squash in a delicate broth with raisin couscous--a fragrant, light entree. Everybody seems to be having fun in the twin rooms, with their bright banquettes. Bar. 2905 San Gabriel (512-474-2905). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Bat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
FONDA SAN MIGUEL
For a change, we chose two of the simplest dishes, tacos al pastor and a chimichanga. Four medium-sized tacos came filled with well-seasoned shredded pork and nuggets of pineapple on a pretty platter. Our friend's fine, light pork-filled chimichanga was encased in a toasty fried flour tortilla. The lovely setting evokes Old Mexico. Bar. 2330 W. North Loop (512-459-4121). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Sun brunch 11-2. $$-$$$ (W+)
GALAXY CAFE
(Update)
We hope the trend toward transforming West Austin neighborhood laundromats into casual, family-friendly eateries won't force the washer-and-dryer-less among us to constantly purchase new clothes. On the other hand, when the food is this fresh and fast, who minds? Grilled pork chops were satisfying and tender, with more sweet than heat in the chipotle-apricot glaze, and the spinach salad was chock full of candied walnuts and bacon. In lieu of dessert we had servings of the creamy-smooth whipped sweet potatoes. With a glass of a refreshingly spicy rooibos iced tea, the meal had us forgetting the dirty clothes piling up at home. BYOB. 1000 West Lynn (512-478-3434). Open 7 days 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m. $ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
We were sorry to see the evening come to a close at this twinkle-lit cottage near the lake. The game menu inspired by chef-owner Jeff Blank is the draw, but seafood shines too. A starter of crepes filled with chunks of lobster, shrimp, and crawfish impressed. Our velvety medium-rare tenderloin came topped with scallops and barbecued shrimp in a rosemary butter sauce. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
Executive chef Alma Alcocer-Thomas not only fills the shoes of former chef David Garrido but sometimes spills right out of them. Her seared foie gras served atop an olive oil cake with bits of black fig in a cherry demi deserves nothing short of a standing ovation. Flaky Alaskan halibut with citrusy lime risotto hits all of the right notes, while a new bistro section of the menu offers such favorites as Kobe hanger steak with potatoes frites and roasted-shallot butter. A comforting but inventive creme brulee trio--maple, plum, Earl Grey--sums up Alcocer-Thomas's approach at this venerable but stylish Austin haunt. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$$ (5 courses $74). (W+)
SOUTHSIDE FLYING PIZZA
(Update)
There's a lot of buzz about this pizzeria just south of other SoCo hot spots, and although it's a total hole in the wall, it's darn well worth a visit. A number of pie options await, from the old pepperoni standby to the more inspired sun-dried-tomato-pesto pizza. We like the classic margherita. The crust is more thick than thin, but perfectly crisp at first bite. Then it turns warm and chewy as the fresh tomato, basil, and mozzarella send your taste buds to sunny Naples. Get there early, as lunch and dinner crowds form quickly. Beer & wine. 2205 South Congress Ave (512-442-4246). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 2-10 $ (W)
** UCHI
Yes, you can do raw seafood, like the silky sea bass with grapeseed oil, garlic, and pepper in an orange vinaigrette--a delicate, flash-marinated "ceviche." Or you can go with a turf-and-turf of duck breast with rabbit confit and find out how the lighter, leaner rabbit contrasts with the earthier, fattier duck, rare and perfectly tender; an accompanying grilled peach goes beautifully with both. Chef Tyson Cole's genius for combinations is ably matched by dessert maestro Philip Speer's, whose brilliant, icy pepper sorbet, with bay leaf and thyme, has a lingering finish like a fine wine. Crowds dig the hot red floral wallpaper and cool taupe sushi bar. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
We arrived early, snagging a window table to watch the evening crowd swarm this SoCo staple. The silky smooth sweet-corn passato with a cambazola cheese crostino left us wanting more, but the al dente mezzaluna pasta (filled with braised veal, roasted garlic, and prosciutto di Parma) arrived in time to tempt us...
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