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Article Excerpt
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Filter: Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter: Dining, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
All listed restaurants accept major credit cards unless otherwise noted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call a head. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Amarillo
LEAL'S
The traditional flavors of Mexico are alive and well at this welcoming, well-decorated spot. New--and worthy--menu staples include avocado enchiladas with a Hatch chile-queso sauce and brisket tacos served with guacamole and charro beans. Beef eaters, stick with the aged, mesquite grilled ribeye. Bar. Wellington Square, 1519 S. Kentucky (806-359-5959). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. $-$$ (W+)
MACARONI JOE'S
(Update) After a brief closure (following a change in ownership), Macaroni Joe's has reclaimed its place as one of the best restaurants in town. And the proof, should you need it, is in the likes of fried green tomatoes, a salad with warm pinon nut-crusted goat cheese, tender grilled chicken with bowtie pasta in an asiago cheese sauce, and sinful chocolate mousse. Liquor license pending. Welling ton Square, 1619 S. Kentucky (806-358-8990). Open Mon-Fri 11-2 & 5-10. Closed Sat & Sun. $$$ (W+)
Austin
ARTZ RIB HOUSE
(Update) Trust the name and order the ribs (there's a reason this laid-back, quintessentially Austin spot isn't called Artz Sausage House or Chicken House). The menu declares the country-style pork ribs "famous," but we're partial to the baby back variety, nicely charred and plenty sweet. If you do happen to get a hankering for something else, we like the juicy smoked chicken. And do have the bread pudding a la mode. Beer & wine. 2330 S. Lamar Blvd (512-442-8283). Open Mon-Sat 11-10, Sun noon-9. $$ (W)
BLUE STAR CAFETERIA
See New + Noteworthy, Page 152.
** DRISKILL GRILL
(Update) When so much work goes into the amuse-bouche (two lovely sweet, winey gelees, plum and pluot), you can only imagine the complexity of the main menu. We loved wee tentacles of baby octopus in a dense, green, herbal chimichurri with diced Granny Smith apples and orange vinaigrette (great contrasts of texture and flavor). Ditto skate sauteed in classic brown butter with almonds and grapes, Veronique-style, on Spatzle. Luscious. By contrast, prawns and Spanish chorizo just sat there. The old-fashioned dining room gleams. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30 9:30. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$S$ (W)
FINO
(Update) Our new favorite appetizer at this Mediterranean restaurant is new chef James Moore's Spanish white gazpacho (a sweet, silky puree of almonds and bread) with grapes. And while we could never skip the wonderful crusty fried goat cheese with sweet onion preserve, we did branch out and try a new dish, the Moroccan vegetable tajine with sweet potato, eggplant, and squash in a delicate broth with raisin couscous--a fragrant, light entree. Everybody seems to be having fun in the twin rooms, with their bright banquettes. Bar. 2905 San Gabriel (512-474-2905). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11, Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
FLIP HAPPY CREPES
See New + Noteworthy, Page 152.
FONDA SAN MIGUEL
(Update) For a change, we chose two of the simplest dishes, tacos al pastor and a chimichanga. Four medium-sized tacos came filled with well-seasoned shredded pork and nuggets of pineapple on a pretty platter. Distinctive salsas--an excellent silky cooked-tomato-and-arbol-chile and a green avocado-and-tomatillo--were offered alongside. Our friend's fine, light pork-filled chimichanga was encased in a toasty fried flour tortilla. The lovely setting evokes Old Mexico. Bar. 2330 W. North Loop (512-459-4121). Open Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Sun brunch 11-2. $$-$$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
(Update) We were sorry to see the evening come to a close at this twinkle-lit cottage near the lake. The game menu (think wild boar, even kangaroo) inspired by chef-owner Jeff Blank is the draw, but seafood shines too. A starter of crepes Filled with chunks of lobster, shrimp, and crawfish impressed. Our velvety tenderloin came topped with scallops and barbecued shrimp in a rosemary butter sauce, but the standout proved to be a special of seared halibut--fabulously moist. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
With the departure of David Garrido, we fretted about quality here. But in truth, newly promoted executive chef Alma Alcocer-Thomas has deep roots at this civilized neighborhood venue. Superlative herbed green gnocchi with pecorino cheese was near feather light. And the vegetable lasagne (layers of pasta, zucchini, and more, with ricotta bechamel) was something even a carnivore could love. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-20, Fri & Sat 5:30-10.30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (5 courses $74). (W+)
JO'S HOT COFFEE
All done shopping the Second Street district? Drop (in) here for a pick-me-up; a cappuccino, a pastry, a salad, or a sandwich. On Olde Austin hippie sensibility (like a picture of Allen Ginsberg eating breakfast cereal) meets a thoroughly modern decorative scheme (groovy orange light fixtures). The burgers are great (they come with herbed mayo), and the kalamata- and feta-laden Greek salad can't be beat. Beer. 1300 S. Congress (512-444-3800). Open 7 days 7 a.m.-9 p.m. $ (W+)
MIRABELLE
A quiet table in the back room proved to be a smart move; we could talk and enjoy the lively tunes from the jazz ensemble. Our friend raved about the grilled beef tenderloin (velvety pink) with Cabernet-veal jus, but we were most impressed by the delectable pan-seared walu (a thick Hawaiian butter fish). Beer & wine. 8127 Mesa Dr (512-346-7900). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 520-10. Closed Sun. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
STORIES
Pluses? A piney woods setting in a lovely new hotel. Minuses? The prices (entrees $30 to $40!). Oddly, the perfectly roasted rack of lamb was all but flavorless. Better was grouper crusted with bread crumbs and minced seafood, though even it needed pizzazz. The chocolate sampler, however, was divine. Bar. Hyatt Regency Lost Pines Resort, 575 Hyatt Lost Pines Rd, 13 miles east of Austin Bergstrom Airport; turn left just after Pope Send Rd (512-308-1234). Dinner Tue-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun & Mon. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
TACO XPRESS
(Update) Hooray--Taco Xpress is back and better than ever. Only yards From its original location, the roomier indoor-outdoor space still has its array of Mexican folk art and funky graffiti. Choose from a short list of taco, enchilada, and gordita plates, including tender polio guisado and savory tacos al pastor. The real draw, though, is the lineup of warm, restorative breakfast tacos. Outdoor gospel brunch Sun 10-3. Beer & margaritas. 2529 S. Lamar (512-444-0261). Open Mon 7 a.m.-3 p.m., Tue-Thur 7 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri 7-10, Sat 8-9, Sun 9-3. Cash only. $ (W+)
* UCHI
An incredible meal at this stylish and packed sushi heaven began with madai (Japanese black snapper) sliced thin and kissed by an oil infused with tangerine juice and sea salt, a combination unexpectedly exciting. Duck had been "cured" overnight in Indian spices, including coriander and star anise, resulting in something not unlike ham, accented with tiny slivers of candied more tangerine peel. Seer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
Nothing cures the ills of a long day like an evening spent at this bustling neighborhood favorite. Recent remedies included chubby veal-and-pecorino-romano-stuffed ravioli floating along a heavenly grappa-and-tomato butter sauce. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Tue-Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Men. Reservations taken Tue-Thur & Sun until 6:30. $$-$$$ (W)
ZOOT
Everything at this tiny cottage is refreshing, from the decor (simple yet tasteful) to the waiters (knowledgeable and courteous) to the food (innovative and delicious). Crab tortellini and greens to start, then our remarkable entree: tender Myles's pork loin with homemade bacon (need we say more?). Beer & wine. 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Dinner Tue-Sun 6-10. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
DOROTHY'S FRONT PORCH
(Update) Fat crabmeat-stuffed shrimp and a steaming bowl of chicken and sausage gumbo proved irresistible at this homey lakeside spot. We're also fond of the funky hushpuppy curls and the salad bar, which includes such favorites as cold mashed-potato salad. On your way out to the porch, buy a quarter's worth offish kibble to toss into the lake; the turtles and oversized fish will swarm (literally). Beer. 7471 Smith Rd, Nederland (409-722-1472). Open Wed & Thur 11-8, Fri & Sat 11-9 Sun 11-3. Closed Mon & Tue. $$ (W+)
FRANKIE'S ITALIAN GRILL
Frankie's love for Italian food must be contagious, because this eatery was packed on a Saturday night. We feasted on the chicken piccata, in a white-wine sauce with capers and just a hint of lemon. Classics like chicken cacciatore and chocolate-chip cannell are reliable too. Kitschy Italian decor, friendly staff. Beer & wine. 105 I-10N, Beaumont (409-835-9200). Open Tue-Sat 11-10, Sun 11-9 Closed Mon. $$ (W)
Corpus Christi
AEBY
Chef-owner Chris Aeby has changed the name of his restaurant (formerly Lavender) and the price level without missing a beat. We began with a salad of fresh arugula, paper-thin apple slices, Roquefort crumbles, and candied almonds tossed with a subtle herbed dressing. We savored every bite of the sauteed kingklip (an imported fish that proved light and flaky), which arrived on a bed of sauteed squash, tomatoes, peas, and fava beans. Beer & wine. 3815 S. Alameda (361-814-0400). Dinner Tue-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. $$-$$$ (W)
GRANDVIEW SEAFOOD THAI AND GRILL
(Update) You can't beat the...
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