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Article Excerpt
Austin
CRU
This wine bar from Dallas is our kind of place, even though that's heresy to admit in Austin. The civilized space is outfitted with bare oak tables and banquettes, and the grazing menu offers wine flights (samples), cheese plates, and light dishes. Salads include a nice watercress and mizuna lettuce combo with herbed goat cheese, and appetizers are good for sharing (the Moroccan-style meatballs were a touch dry, but saffron aioli helped). Entrees like seared tenderloin with Gorgonzola and red-wine sauce satisfy traditionalists. Beer & wine. 238 W. 2nd (512-472-9463). Open Sun-Wed 4-11, Thur-Sat 4-midnight. $-$$ (W+)
Dallas
LA PAESANA
This rustic dark-wood-beamed and brick-walled room is already a hit with Park Cities denizens. Scampi Paesana was a tasty appetizer--four shrimp sauteed in olive oil, lemon, garlic, white wine, and fresh herbs nesting in black angel hair pasta. We couldn't resist the capricciosa pizza with prosciutto, capers, artichoke hearts, red onions, mozzarella, and oregano, all served up on a microthin crust. Bar. 4326 Lovers Ln at Douglas Ave (214-890-1811). Open Mon-Thur 11-20, Fri-Sun 11-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
PAPOU'S GREEK KITCHEN AND TAVERNA
Legal Grounds, the unprecedented combination coffeehouse-law office, is popular for outside-the-(jury)-box breakfast and brunch. But at night, it's transformed into Papou's, which woos diners with traditional Greek dishes featuring unique family recipes. Savory dolmas delicately blend rice and meat, while the eggplant-and-meat moussaka is lightened by omitting the usual potatoes. Beer & wine. Lakewood Shopping Center, 2015 Abrams Rd (214-824-5800). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Men. $$ (W+)
SAGE
Subdued accents in (of course) sage green, Nat King Cole on the sound system, and nicely spaced tables make for a pleasant evening off the beaten path. Diced mango and pineapple added pizzazz to a Mexican shrimp cocktail, and tempura diver scallops (seafood is the forte of chef Chris Svalesen, formerly of Go Fish) were accompanied by an assertive ginger-infused sauce. Liquor license pending. 3109 Inwood Rd at Cedar Springs Rd (214-357-7243). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Sun brunch 11-2:30. Closed Men. $$$ (W) SHINSEI
See Pat's Pick, page 137. Bar. 7713 Inwood Rd (214-352-0005). Dinner Mon-Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
Fort Worth
DUCE
At Tim "Lonesome Dove" Love's sleek new digs on the West Side, pick your spot: the patio/bar with fans and fireplace, the sophisticated dining room (blond woods and stainless-steel accents), or the conversation pit for drinks and tapas. The food is just as diverse and, on our visit, excellent. Top dish: an appetizer of halibut sausage served with red-lentil salad. Close second: seared salmon atop creamed artichokes with crisp chips and caramelized leeks. Bar. 6333 Camp Bowie Blvd (817-377-4400). Open Mon-Thur 3-midnight, Fri & Sat 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m., Sun 11 a.m.-midnight. $$ (W+)
Houston
PIC
We miss Aries (Pic's former incarnation), but hooray for the less fussy setting, lower prices, and larger portions. The quality of the food, however, varies (even though chef-owner Scott Tycer is still running the show). Our favorite was the baked raclette: rich pastry filled with runny cheese and served with homemade fig conserve. The flatiron steak came a bit overdone and under-flavored, but the salty roasted potatoes added spark. Bar. 4315 Montrose Blvd (713-526-4404). Lunch Tue-Sat 11:30-2. Dinner Tue-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun & Men. Reservations recommended. $$$ (W+)
TACOS A GO-GO
A casually funky setting (a giant Tabasco mural plus a Madonna garlanded in chile-pepper lights) and Midtown location on the rail line--those two factors should jump-start success. Even better, Go-Go has good food and low prices. Creamy roasted-pepper soup and breakfast tacos filled with chorizo and black beans both pleased. We also liked the nicely spiced fajita tacos. Beer & wine. 3704 Main (713-807-8226). Open Men & Tue 9:30-2:30 p.m., Wed & Thur 9:30-11 p.m., Fri & Sat 9:30-2 a.m. Closed Sun. Cash only. $-$$ (W+)
Lubbock
TWAIN'S CREOLE HOUSE
When Twain Henry's parents and grandparents fled Hurricane Katrina for landlocked Lubbock, they brought along their recipes and helped him create this magnificent lunch-only spot in historic downtown. Fittingly, our most recent visit started with a creditable sausage gumbo and ended with catfish--soy marinated, pan seared, bronzed with paprika, and delivered by an engaging waiter. Oohs and aahs were heard all around. 2001 Broadway Ave (806-744-2900). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Closed Sat & Sun. $$ (W+)
San Antonio
EL SIETE MARES
And now, from Mexico, washed by both the Atlantic and the Pacific, comes a seafood restaurant complete with a 16-page menu. The kitchen handles fish and shellfish adroitly and sensitively, whether in shrimp enchipotlados (shrimp in a chipotle cream sauce), tilapia any of six ways (the veracruzana is excellent), or shrimp enchiladas with tomatillo sauce. Spacious, with live music on occasion and eager servers, El 7 is something distinctly different. Bar. 1662 Encino Rio, just off U.S. 281, 1 1/2 miles north of Loop 1604 (210-545-8522). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $$ (W+)
Tyler
CAP RANCH
Adding another element to its multifaceted identity (deli lunch counter meets coffee bar meets outlet for dry goods and specialty smoked meats), Cap Ranch has launched an upscale steakhouse replete with touches in corrugated and pressed tin, Longhorn and Lone Star embellishments, and polished tile floors. The results are delightful. We especially enjoyed the juicy hickory-smoked prime rib with steamed vegetables and the crisp, sweet Vidalia onion rings. Bar. 322 E. Southeast Loop 323 (903-534-3650). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-3. $-$$ (W+)
Amarillo
BASIL DOC'S PIZZERIA
Update
Basil Doc's caters to both the do-it-yourselfer (create your own pizza with choices from among thirty ingredients ranging from capers to Canadian bacon) and those who prefer to keep things simple and order off the menu. Our favorite standard selections include the pesto (fresh basil, fresh garlic, pine nuts, and a healthy drizzle of olive oil) and the Tuscan (artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, and goat cheese). Of the tomato-sauce-free alternatives, we like the quattro formaggio, with Parmesan, feta, mozzarella, and goat cheese. Beer & wine. 2803 Civic Circle (806-331-3627). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-11. $-$$ (W+)
VILLAGE BAKERY CAFE
All hail the European-style blackboard. It led us straight to delicious tomato basil soup; a mixed green salad with cranberries, cashews, and blue cheese; and rotisserie chicken seasoned with rosemary and sided by cheddar-spiked mashed potatoes. Had we had any room left, we would have taken home one of the pre-made casseroles or quiches. Wine & champagne. Wolflin Village shopping center, 2606 W. 22nd (806-358-1358). Open Mon-Fri 7 a.m.-8:30 p.m., 5at 7-5. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
Austin
CANTINA LAREDO
This outpost of the Dallas-based chain fits its location in the trendy Second Street district. We liked the nueva-hacienda interior, but couldn't resist a sidewalk table. Warm chips and salsa arrived just in time. Our friend did serious damage to his light spinach enchiladas Veracruz, but we toted home most of our delicious beef quesadillas. Bar. 201 W. 3rd (512-542-9670). Open Sun- Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
CRU
See New + Noteworthy, page 138.
Driskill grill.
** DRISKILL GRILL
In chef David Bull's culinary theater, the supporting cast shines just as brightly as the stars. Which is probably why the highlights of a recent evening included the black-truffle-infused "pureed" (the rich man's "mashed") potatoes that nestled against the venerable charred beef tenderloin and the creamy corn butter underlying kicky African saltwater prawns and grilled chorizo. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-9:30. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Talk about a formula that works: Here surf and turf (alone or together) reach an art form. Take Longhorn steak (tender, utterly lean) combined with lobster medallions in Mexican-mint-marigold hollandaise-spectacular. The simple cottage is brightened with vivid, whimsical paintings by Shanny Lott. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-255-1359). Dinner Sun & Mon 5-9, Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
Update
With the departure of David Garrido, we fretted about quality here. But, in truth, newly promoted executive chef Alma Alcocer-Thomas has deep roots at this civilized neighborhood venue. Superlative herbed green gnocchi with pecorino cheese was near feather light. The vegetable lasagne (layers of pasta, zucchini, and more, with ricotta bechamel) was something even a carnivore could love. If the excellent, tender Wagyu beef (American Kobe) hanger steak is offered, go for it. The only weaknesses were the desserts: a dry brownie layer in the Chocolate Intemperance and fighting textures in the meringue-based Le Succes. But a lively sorbet captured the essence of fresh pear. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (5 courses $74). (W+)
JO'S HOT COFFEE
All done shopping the Second Street district? Drop (in) here for a pick-me-up: a cappuccino, a pastry, a salad, or a sandwich. An Olde Austin hippie sensibility (like a picture of Allen Ginsberg eating breakfast cereal) meets a thoroughly modern decorative scheme (groovy orange light fixtures). The burgers are great (they come with herbed mayo), and the kalamata- and fetaladen Greek salad can't be beat. Beer. 1300 S. Congress (512-444-3800). Open 7 days 7 a.m.-9 p.m. $ (W+)
JUDGES' HILL
As soon as we walked into the grand dining room, the surrounding West Campus vibe vanished. We were here to indulge: velvety lamb chops with thyme jus and minted risotto, a medium-rare pan-seared filet (divine) with an intoxicating rosemary-red wine reduction. We kept going with chocolate buttermilk cake (a tad dry) sided with vanilla bean ice cream (oh, so smooth). The only misstep: slow service. Bar. 1900 Rio Grande (512-495-1857). Breakfast Mon-Fri 6:30-10, Sat & Sun 7-10, Dinner 7 days 5:30-10. Sun brunch 11-2. $$$ (W+)
MOOD AND FOOD
Like the ceiling strobe that flashes red, green, and blue shafts of light, your mood will alternate at this suburban bistro featuring Italian and Mediterranean cuisine. Overcooked fettuccine with wild mushrooms, spinach, and truffle oil disappointed; however, veal picatta--so tender you could cut it with your fork--more than compensated. Don't miss the crisp polenta fries served with a gorgeous Gorgonzola and rosemary sauce. A quaint patio welcomes visitors. Bar. 10601 FM 2222 at Riverplace Blvd (512-266-7979). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 4:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 4:30-10. Closed Sun, $$ (W+)
P&K GROCERY
Update
Nostalgia, thy name is P&K Grocery. No matter your reason for showing up here--the fresh farmers' market-style vegetables, the worldly cheeses, a cappuccino jolt, the latest copy of Architectural Digest, a large swirly lollipop--you'll feel as if you've stepped back into a good ol' corner store. This one also happens to dish up delectable gourmet sandwiches, like the gooeylicious mozzarella with slow-roasted roma tomatoes and portobellos on ciabatta. Add an ice-cold Coke (in a glass bottle, mind you), and you'll be feeling positively old-school. 915 W. Mary (512-326-3133). Open 7 days 8-8. $ (W+)
SALT LICK THREE SIXTY
This ain't your granddaddy's Salt Lick. This is Salt Lick in the city. Truth be told, though, on our lunchtime visit, the barbecue (made famous at that country spread in Driftwood) was the highlight. Yes, the brisket-stuffed crimini mushrooms were tasty and the fried-shrimp tacos (with a green-chile atoll) were zesty, but nothing beat that tender brisket. Bar. Davenport Village, 3801 N. Capital of Texas (512-328-4957). Open Sun-Thur 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10. $$ (W+)
* UCHI
An incredible meal at this stylish and packed sushi heaven began with madai (Japanese black snapper) sliced thin and kissed by an oil infused with tangerine juice and sea salt, a combination unexpectedly exciting. Duck had been "cured" overnight in Indian spices including coriander and star anise, resulting in something not unlike ham, accented with tiny slivers of candied moro tangerine peel. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
Update
Nothing cures the ills of a long day like an I evening spent at this rejuvenatingly bustling (or deafeningly noisy, if you insist on being a glass-half-empty grumbler) neighborhood favorite. Bring along good friends, let the wine flow freely, and the masterful open kitchen will take care of the rest. Recent remedies included a "fresh" twist on tuna salad (served tartare-style, with Dijon, capers, red onion, kalamata olives, and crostini points) and chubby veal-and-pecorino-romano-stuffed ravioli floating along a heavenly grappa-and-tomato butter...
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