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Article Excerpt
Austin MANDOLA'S ITALIAN MARKET
Judging by the response, an Italian grocery-slash-restaurant was way overdue in north central Austin. Come early for coffee and pastries, return for lunch or dinner (order at the counter and food is brought to your table). There are wood-fired pizzas (terrific zucchini and eggplant), fat panini on rustic bread (the pork shoulder was tender but a tad bland), salads, many pastas (including gnocchi), and various croquettes and fritters. Damian Mandola--the co-founder of Carrabba's has found a home away from home. Wine. The Triangle shopping area, 4700 W. Guadalupe (512-4299700). Open 7 days 6:30 a.m.- 10 p.m. $-$$ (w+)
Corpus Christi CAFE AEBY
This new lunch-only cafe shares ownership, staff, and a flair for pared-down elegance with its neighbor Lavender. A roasted pork tenderloin with polenta, escarole, and olive tapenade was so successful we returned the next day to try the lighter fare. The results were mixed: The "trios" salad plate of barley, fennel, and marinated beets was rather bland, but the mixed green salad with sliced apple, candied almonds, and blue cheese proved delightful. Assorted teas and coffee drinks, plus a lovely wine list. Beer & wine. 3829 S. Alameda (361-225-0329). Lunch Tue-Sat 10:30-2:30. Closed Sun & Mon. $$ (W+)
Dallas AMUSE
See Pat's Pick, page 145. Bar 1325S. Lamar (224-428-7300). Lunch Mon Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Mon-Wed 5 10. Thur-Sat F-11. Sun brunch 11:30-3. $$-$$$ (W+)
PAZZO
This is a pizza palace? One would hardly suspect, what with the Murano glass and the sinuous, curvy banquettes. For classic Ira]ian fare, look no further than a pizza margherita, one of many wood-fired options, or a panino made with fresh-baked bread. And you can't go wrong with the light and tart lemon-drop cheesecake. Beer & wine. 18208 Preston Rd (972-985-0900). Open Sun Thur 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10. $-$$ (W+)
Houston CHEZ GEORGES
Chef-owner Georges Guy is back in the kitchen. We were charmed by both the French provincial setting and Mme. Guy's welcome and found M. Guy's food satisfying, if still a bit uneven. Roasted wild salmon with braised endive was only slightly outclassed by a terrifically moist, perfectly cooked sea bass in butter sauce. Less successful was a flavorless filet mignon aswim in beef broth and topped with a chive cream sauce. Beer & wine. 219 Westheimer Rd (713-529-7788). Dinner Tue-Thur 5-10. Fri & Bat 5-11. Closed Sun & Mori. Reservations recommended. $$$ (W) Call ahead.
LAIDBACK MANOR
Just about the only laid back thing at this industrial-looking storefront site is the lone rocking chair out front. The postmodern rendition of Texas comfort food is hardly relaxed: A duet of pork a great boneless "rib" braised in Dr Pepper and a less enticing preserved tenderloin--is flanked by smoked potato salad and buttery Texas toast. Then it's on to the likes of shaved radish salad with crisp shimeji mushrooms and paper-thin slices of serrano ham and manchego and vegetable risotto with mascarpone and a foamy curry broth. Bar. 706 Main (713-227-0402). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun &Mon. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ (W+)
MEMORIAL GRILL
The Memorial area is like a small town--everyone knows everyone--and you may well run into friends at this casual spot. Great salads are the hallmark, and our pick is the Veracruz, loaded with pecan-smoked barbecued chicken, ripe avocado, tortilla strips, and Jack cheese and finished with a red pepper-cilantro vinaigrette. Bypass the bland sauteed filet of sole for one of the 12 varieties of burgers. Beer & wine. 14510 Memorial Dr (281-495-1780). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. $$ (W+)
ZAKE
This small, sleek Japanese restaurant boasts efficient servers and attractive tables alongside a comfy bar area. We started with edamame and Crazy Rolls (shrimp tempura, spicy tuna, avocado, and cucumber), then moved on to crisp shrimp and vegetable tempura, which was so filling that we postponed dessert for another time. Bar. 2946 S. Shepherd Dr (713-526-6888). Open Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Sun noon-10. $$-$$$ (W+)
Midland-Odessa CAFE AT THE GARDEN
You're not in Kansas anymore in this sophisticated milieu located inside Alldredge Gardens: Little white lights dot the trees along the wide drive, waterfalls cascade, and inside, starchy white linens and an eclectic menu with classic French preparations await. The diver scallop ravioli with foie gras is not to be missed, and the Colorado lamb, with undertones of ginger and orange, is melt-on-your-tongue tender. Bar. 3300 Fairgrounds Rd, Midland (432-687-3751). Open Tue Sat 11-9. Sun brunch 11-2 Closed Mon. $$$$ (W+)
San Antonio BIN 555
New to the north side is this venture by the chefs from the Lodge, in Castle Hills. You could dine on the long list of appetizers: a mini-paella, hot wings, wonderfully tender mussels. But don't overlook the main courses. The nicely crisp roast chicken with herbs, served with pillow-light gnocchi, is an excellent choice. Plain but quietly elegant, the dining room can be noisy, but a full house did not raze the alert staff. Bar. The Shops at Artisans Alley, 555 W. Bitters Rd (210-496-0555). Open Mon-Thur 11-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (w+)
PAESANOS 1604
The newest Paesanos is a grander version of the popular Alamo Heights location, with an expansive fountain-centered patio faced by loggia. A bisque of shrimp and sweet red pepper woke up ali our senses. Then came delicate flounder filets in lemon butter, stacked atop four remarkable ravioli, each pillow filled with a mixture of peppers, mushrooms, leeks, and more. Bar. 3522 Paesanos Pkwy, just inside NW Loop 1504, east of Bitters Rd (210-493-1604). Open 7 days 11-11. $$-$$$ (w+)
Amarillio
CAROLINA'S WOOD-FIRED ITALIAN
This new pizzeria and Italian eatery may be small (we're talking 12-tables small), but it's big on flavor. Witness chicken parmigiana, with a tasty marinara sauce and a side of angel hair pasta; Carolina's Special pizza, with a paper-thin crust; and the tiramisu. Beer & wine. 2916 Wolflin Ave (806-358-2099). Lunch Mon-Fri 12-2. Dinner Mon-Bat 5-9. Closed Bun. $-$$ (w+)
YE OLD PANCAKE STATION
This intimate neighborhood diner offers every breakfast dish imaginable. But we're also fond of lunch, when homemade specialties include turkey and dressing, meat loaf, and tasty beef stew with fresh cornbread muffins. 2800 Virginia Circle (805-355-0211). Open Mon-Sat 6-2, Sun 7-2. $-$$ (w+)
Austin
BUENOS AIRES CAFE
Seven tables, low-key decor, interesting mix of diners, excellent Argentinean food--this modest spot in South Austin turned our expectations upside down. Flaky empanadas (we liked the creamy spinach) got us started. The special, pork tenderloin with steamed asparagus, was good but no match for the pastel de papas (shepherd's pie), which our companion ali but inhaled. Liquor license pending. 2414 S. 1st (512-4419000). Open Mon-Thur 8:30-9:30, Fri & Bat 8:30-10. Closed Sun. $-$$ (w+)
CAPITOL BRASSERIE
As we enjoyed a deliciously simple sidewalk lunch--seared tuna nicoise salad, croque-monsieur, steak frites--we fancied ourselves sitting outside at a brasserie in Paris's chic St-Germaindes-Pres. Only for a moment, though: We were brought back home by the ample leg room and our amicable server, who personally squeezed the lemons for our requested lemonade. Bar. 310 Colorado (512-4726770). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-5. Dinner Bun-Wed 5-10, Thur-Sat 5-11. (Light food Mon 10-midnight, Tue- Thur 10-1, Fri & Sat 11-3.) Brunch Sat & Sun 10-3, $$ (w+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
How lucky we are to have chef David Bull in our fair city. The flavor combinations--an apple salad accented with fresh ricotta and crisp sweet potato and topped with spiced lemon vinaigrette, and a smoked quail garnished with micro cilantro accompanied by a Patron granita-put Bull's ambition and creativity front and center. The dining room is elegant and sophisticated. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10 Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended weekends. $$$-$$$$ (w+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
From the moment you spot the majestic trees wrapped in welcoming white lights, you know you're in for something special. We swooned over both the sumptuous elk enchiladas with mole and the lean bison steak stuffed with blackened turkey tenderloin and served with a peppery cranberry relish. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 520, 11/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-255-1359). Dinner Sun &Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (w+)
** JEFFREY'S
David Garrido has decamped for the sunny climes of corporate restaurant consulting, leaving the rigors of multistar cuisine to his longtime collaborator, Alma Alcocer-Thomas. You'll find the same classy, inventive dishes you'd expect (like Alaskan halibut in a velvety champagne cream sauce), along with one development you might not: a new section of the menu showcasing bistro fare, such as prosciutto-wrapped quail with polenta and a peppered flat iron steak with pommes frites. It's a little bit more casual, a little bit less expensive, and every bit as good. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon- Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (w+) (tasting menus $75).
LA TRAVIATA
Come on Wednesdays and Fridays and treat yourself to one of the best renditions of chicken parmigiana you'll ever have-tender, crisply crusted, and garnished with julienne scallions. Couldn't be simpler, couldn't be better. Generous too. The skinny, rock-walled room is old Austin at its best. Bar. 314 Congress Ave (512-4798131). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
MANDOLA'S ITALIAN MARKET
See New + Noteworthy, page 146.
MUSASHINO
Musashino still runs rings around the newcomers. Everything's good at this welcoming, low-ceilinged place, from cooked appetizers to traditional nigiri sushi and beginner rolls such as the Evil Knievel (a pretty creation of raw salmon, avocado, and cucumber with garnishes of tangy smelt roe, sesame seeds, and lemon zest). Bar. 3407 Greystone Dr at Loop 1 (MoPac) (512-795-8593). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Sun & Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Mori. $$ (w+)
RANCH 616
Cheap gold sports trophies. Check. Plenty of taxidermy. Check. Veladoras. Check. So it goes at this aptly named downtown spot, where the food is campfire grub, home cookin', and haute cuisine, sometimes ali at once. Try the Tiger Tilapia, a filet bathed in cilantro-basil pesto. Bar. 616 Nueces (512-479-7515). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5.'00-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (w+)
SAMPAIO'S
Tour Brazil's multifaceted cuisine at this snazzy reincarnation of a humble cafe formerly located near UT. Some dishes are resolutely homey, like feijoada (the tasty black-bean-and-smoked-meat stew that is the country's national dish). Others have an upscale edge, such as jumbo shrimp deliciously sauteed with tomatoes in (way too much) garlic butter spiked with cachaca, Brazil's famous sugarcane liquor. Bar. 4800 Burnet Rd (512-45g-9988). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, $$ (w+)
* UCHI
Tyson Cole. In the flesh. Delivering to our table one of the evening's specials. His Japanese fusion presentations are nearly unmatched in Austin (an aji sashimi special cradled in the delicate skeleton that the pristine...
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