|
Article Excerpt
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Dining Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a TEXAS MONTHLY restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY Dining Guide, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
BEN'S LONGBRANCH BBQ
The line was long at this popular east-side barbecue spot on a recent afternoon. Ah, but it was Wednesday, and Ben Wash was serving his delicious collard greens. We like just about everything else Wash gets a hankering to fix: smothered pork chops, chicken and dumplings, and, of course, 'cue. Politicians and executives eat elbow to elbow with blue-collar workers. Beer. 900 E. 11th (512-477-2516). Open Mon-Thur 10:30-9, Fri & Sat 10:30-11, Sun noon-4. AE, MC, V. $ (W+)
CAFE CAPRICE
We had this quaint American bistro almost all to ourselves on a chilly weekday evening. A decent merlot warmed us up a tad as we started on our delicious romaine salads with asiago cheese. The medium-rare filet mignon (perfectly pink, juicy, and tender) with tasty whipped mashers received top marks from our group. Beer & wine. 900 W. 10th (512-477 5576). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Tue-Sun 6-10. Closed Men. Cr. $$$ (W+)
CAPITOL BRASSERIE
Think of New York's Balthazar or Le Grand Colbert, in Paris. Now Austin's got its own version of a French brasserie (in Mezzaluna's old digs). The menu hits the right bases: mussels and frites, salade nicoise, duck confit. Best of several visits included tender coq au vin in a mahogany-hued wine sauce and trout amandine in brown butter. Bar. 310 Colorado (512-472-5770). Breakfast Mon-Fri 8-11. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-5. Dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. (Light food Sun & Mon until midnight Tue-Thur until 1 a.m., Fri & Sat until 3 a.m.) Sat & Sun brunch 10-3. Cr. $$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
The Grill blends the elegance of a bygone era with decidedly modern cuisine, and the results are as interesting as they are unexpected. Alas, our last meal was not the tour de force we've come to expect, with a lackluster poached lobster salad and a chop salad that seemed to be missing its bite. Broiled spiny lobster, on the other hand, was a flaming-red masterpiece, the tender meat bathed in an aromatic lobster-orange butter. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 504 Brazos (512-391-7152). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EL BORREGO DE ORO
Don't let the trafficky location deter you from this unpretentious spot. You'll be more than pleased with the offerings of a kitchen that deftly balances both traditional Mexican and Tex-Mex. Perched atop a bed of flavorful rice, the camarones al mojo de ajo were garlicky, tender, and sweet, and a beef burrito, smothered in chili con carne and yellow cheese, was wonderful. Liquor license pending. 3900 S. Congress Ave (512-383-0031). Open 7 days 6 a.m.-11 p.m. DC, D5, MC, V. $ (W+)
HOME SLICE PIZZA
Now, this place looks like Austin--nobody dressed up, counter made out of salvaged doors, pressed-tin accents. Behind said counter are guys hand-stretching pizza dough for thin-crust pizzas and calzoni. While, disappointingly, you can't get individual-size pizzas, the slices are quite satisfactory. We selected the spinach, ricotta, mozzarella, and olive oil white pizza, which was irresistible. Beer & wine. 1415 5. Congress Ave (512-444-7437). Open Mon, Wed & Thur 11:30-11, Fri & Sat 11:30-midnight (to-go window until 3 a.m.), Sun noon-20. Closed Tue. AE, MC, V. $ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Undeniably romantic, with both traditional touches and not-so-traditional ones (how many love stories involve a kangaroo entree?), Hudson's boldly courts your affection. Ours was ensured with a single morsel of the smoked backstrap of elk, which had been rubbed with an ancho-coffee-chocolate mix and paired with Gulf Coast crabmeat. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620 northbound, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1359). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
It's true there are more fashionable restaurants in town, but we're quite fond of the unassuming ambience at this venerable West Austin hot spot (where Alma Alcocer-Thomas has recently been promoted to executive chef following the amicable departure of David Garrido). We felt let down by just-average peppered sea scallops. But the ridiculously tender and juicy lamb T-bone with feathery sweet-potato flan reassured us that the world is indeed round. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5-9:30. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (tasting menus $75). (W+)
LA TRAVIATA
(Update) Come on Wednesdays and Fridays and treat yourself to one of the best renditions of chicken parmigiana you'll ever have--tender, crisply crusted, and garnished with julienne scallions. Couldn't be simpler, couldn't be better. Generous too. And one fine day, we enjoyed a lovely special of seared halibut, almost caramelized on top and served on wilted spinach with mushrooms that had been cooked with olive oil and chicken stock. What a dish! The skinny, rock-walled room is old Austin at its best. Bar. 314 Congress Ave (512-479-8131). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-20:30. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
ROARING FORK
With food that's as bold as the decor, this Arizona-based restaurant has a loyal Austin following. The green-chile pork stew is a must, and the Fork's contemporary spin on cowboy cooking shows in its seafood offerings, like sea bass in a red-curry broth and snapper crusted with cashews. Bar. Intercontinental Stephen F. Austin Hotel, 701 Congress Ave (512-583-0000). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & .Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. Cr. $$ (W+)
TAVERNA PIZZERIA AND RISOTTERIA
In our fair city's slick, new, Dallas-esque dining, wining, and shopping district en Second Street, what could be more perfect than a real Dallas import? Taverna has the bistro-brasserie look down pat, plus a menu of entrees, pizzas, and risottos. Favorite dish so far is the excellent pan-seared sea bass with a light, crisp crust, ensconced in a flavorful tomato broth. Bar. 258 W. 2nd (512-477-1001). Open Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-midnight, Sun 11-10. AE, DC, MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
* UCHI
(Update) Tyson Cole. In the flesh. Delivering to our table one of the evening's specials. The much-acclaimed Cole--a Food & Wine rising-star chef--is rather supernatural in ability, his artful presentations nearly unmatched in Austin (an aji sashimi special cradled in the delicate skeleton that the pristine mackerel occupied until a couple of hours earlier; yes, it sounds odd, but it looked stunning). Similarly, his skill with flavors can take your breath away (mint sorbet tastes as if you'd just been chewing on fresh mint leaves). It's no wonder the sushi faithful flock to his colorful Japanese fusion sanctuary night after night. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
As you browse the "Italian" aisle of Austin's mega Whole Foods, you may notice little cards on the shelves picturing Vespaio chef Alan Lazarus alongside his recommendations for this olive oil or that balsamic. And maybe you'll think that if you buy these items, you just might be able to cook as well as he does. Not. Just try to replicate the raviolini di magro: ethereal pillows of pasta filled with goat's-milk ricotta. The rustic-sophisticated dining room bustles with energy. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Tue-Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5-10. Closed Mon. Reservations taken Tue-Thur & Sun until 6:30. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
EVANGELINE CAFE
Only in South Austin will you find a Cajun joint in a strip center packed on hump day. It's true. We had to wait for a table, but we didn't mind. A band was playing good tunes, and the people-watching was primo. Our food was excellent too, especially the Caesar with a delicious "special" dressing. The boudin was a little spicy for our palate, but the seafood gumbo and the shrimp etoufee were right on (weil, the latter could have used a pinch of salt). Beer, wine & wine margaritas. 8106 Brodie Ln (512-282-2586). Open Mon-Thur & Sat 11-9:30, Fri 11-midnight (limited menu). Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
AL-T'S SEAFOOD AND STEAKHOUSE
Rita may have claimed the towering sign out front, but it didn't slow down the kitchen. Al-T's remains the perfect place to bring the brood for a traditional Southern breakfast. We're fond of the grits and homemade flapjacks, but when we need a little Cajun TLC, the boudin-and-cheese omelet starts our day right. Bar. Texas Hwy 124 & Spur 5, Winnie (409-295-9818). Open Mon-Sat 6 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun 7 a.m.-9 p.m. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
GREEN BEANERY
This quaint lunch spot was almost giddy on a recent visit (a bridal shower was going on). We got a buzz off the good times, indulging in the day's special, cheesy chicken spaghetti, and healthy sides of fresh fruit and a salad of baby greens drizzled with a garlic-cucumber dressing. Beer & wine. 2121 McFaddin, Beaumont (409-833-5913). Lunch Tue-Sat 11-2. Closed Sun & Mon. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
RAO'S BAKERY
A little water damage (courtesy of Rita) hasn't had any negative effects on this bakery's ever-flowing coffee, creamy gelato, or top-notch sandwiches. Two favorites from a recent visit: Sicilian tuna on focaccia with tomato, onion, black olives, and pimiento cheese and egg salad and green olives on a croissant. 2596 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-832-4342). Open Mon-Fri 6-5, Sat 7-3. Closed Sun. Call for other locations. AE, MC, V. (W+)
RIO RITA'S
High ceilings and adobe-like walls lend charm to this Tex-Mex eatery. A warm and flavorful bowl of chicken tortilla soup hit the spot on a chilly day (and it didn't skimp on the vegetables, cheese, or tortilla strips), while the Sombrero fajita nachos oozed with cheese and boasted all the fixings. 230 Crockett, Beaumont (409-833-0750). Open Sun-Tue 10:30-9, Wed & Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun brunch 10:30-2. DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
UNCLE HENRY'S TAMALES
This tamale shack goes back nearly seventy years, and, yes, there really was an Uncle Henry. Today the tradition of scrumptious pork tamales and soul-satisfying chili is carried on in three drive-through locations. We enjoy the atmosphere at this one, not to mention the homemade sausage links and the cheesy chili pie. 4358 E. Lucas Dr (409-924-0302), Beaumont. Open Mon-Sat 10-8. Closed Sun. Call for other locations. AE, DB, MC, V. $ (W+)
WILLY RAY'S BAR-B-Q CO.
They cook a mean beef brisket here, and succulent pork ribs too. As for the sides, our favorites were the potato casserole and the carrot souffle (heavy on the brown sugar and butter). If you're feeling ambitious, an all-you-can-eat buffet awaits. Beer & wine. 145 1-10N, Beaumont (409-832-7770). Open 7 days 11-9. AE, DS, MC, V.$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
CITKO'S
The luncheon fare and made-to-order cakes have an Old World richness that attracts a loyal following. We opted to forgo our usual sandwich and instead tried the new Wild Field Salad, served with generous helpings of creamy, meaty chicken salad, roasted marinated red peppers, and fresh asparagus. We're quite taken with this unassuming eatery (faux flowers in flea-market urns) housed in an old grocery store. 2766 Santa Fe (361-879-0408). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-4. Closed Sat & Sun. Cr. $ (W+)
INDIGO BAKERY AND BISTRO
(Update) Do not be dissuaded by the spare dining room and fluorescent lights. In this new luncheon spot, chef Randy Foote lets fresh ingredients speak for themselves. Locals flock here for the lavender-and-peppercorn-crusted ahi tuna tacos topped with slaw and pico de gallo. The grilled cheese sandwich is a delightfully simple melt of smoked mozzarella and asiago with tomatoes and red onion on thinly sliced sourdough. All the breads-including the hamburger buns--are made here, and daily dinner entrees are available to go. 4411 5. Alameda (361-334-2363). Open Mon-Sat 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Closed Sun. Cr. $ (W+)
KATZ 21
The signature Katz Meow, sauteed shrimp with white wine and lump crabmeat on toast points topped with bearnaise sauce, was pure perfection. As was the stuffed flounder served with crabmeat. But the crab cakes, wrapped in overpowering bacon and served on undercooked onion, need rethinking. Ceiling fans add a casual touch to this white-tablecloth place. Bar. 317 N. Mesquite (351-884-1815). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-1:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-21. Closed Sun. Cr. $$$ (W+)
OPHRAKA'S 429
Restaurateur 0phraka Sananikone supplies the basil and kaffir leaves from her own garden, and her rich Thai and Laotian dishes simply burst with flavor. Our recent favorites are the silky Drunken Noodles in a spicy garlic sauce and the crunchy nam kao with minced chicken, toasted jasmine rice, and peanuts. Beer & wine. 429 Schatzel (361-885-0880). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3. Dinner Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. Cr. $ (W+)
VIETNAM
On a recent visit to this tastefully decorated spot, the pan-seared grouper with artichokes, ginger, and olives was fantastic. We must warn you, though, that any item (soft-shelled crab, oysters, fish, chicken, tofu) fried in the black-pepper batter may become an addiction. Bar. 701 N. Water (361-853-2682). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. Cr. $$$ (W+)
Dallas
* ABACUS
(Update) One of Dallas's finest and most beautiful restaurants, Abacus is famous for distinctive, memorable meals. We seized the opportunity to try wild-buffalo tenderloin with a red-wine butter sauce and whipped black-truffle potatoes--the combo was...
|
