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Article Excerpt
Austin
BUENOS AIRES CAFE
Seven tables, low-key decor, interesting mix of diners, excellent Argentinian food--this modest spot in South Austin right next to a pawn shop turned our expectations upside down. Flaky empanadas (we liked the jazzed-up chicken and the creamy spinach) got us started. The special, pork tenderloin with steamed asparagus, was good, but no match for the pastel de papas (shepherd's pie), which our companion all but inhaled. We savored every bite of the tres leches cake--the best we've ever had. Liquor license pending, so BYOB (there's a decent liquor store two doors down). 2414 & 1st (312-441-9000). Open Mon-Thur 8:30-P:30, Fri & Sat 8:30-10. Closed Sun. $-$$
SAMPAIO'S
Tour Brazil's multifaceted cuisine at this snazzy reincarnation of a humble care formerly located near UT. Some dishes are resolutely homey, like feijoada (the tasty black-bean-and-smoked-meat stew that is the country's national dish). Others have an upscale edge, such as jumbo shrimp deliciously sauteed with tomatoes in (way too much) garlic butter spiked with cachaca, Brazil's famous sugar-cane liquor. Still others, like sweet starchy-sticky mandioca (yucca) cakes, lightly fried, will expand your culinary horizons. Absolutely worth a try. Bar. 4800 Burnet Rd (512-469-9988). Open 7 days 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$ (W+)
Dallas
KITCHEN 1924
The chef hails from Atlanta, and Southern pride is evident in the pork braised in Coca-Cola and the lobster atop stone-ground grits. And not since Grandma's have we had such good deviled eggs; we'd return just for these tasty treats. The chopped salad was unique, an all-vegetable concoction with a vinegary dressing, and initial skepticism about a citrus-marinated-shrimp pizza with red onion and an orange-honey reduction vanished with one bite. Bar. 1924 Abrams Rd (214-821-1924). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Sun brunch noon-3. $$-$$$ (w+)
TARANTINO'S DEEP ELLUM
For brothers Peter, Matthew, and Patrick Tarantino, this casual but nicely turned out restaurant must feel like a Deep Ellum homecoming. The focus is traditional Italian dishes--with surprises like prosciutto-wrapped duck. More predictable, a sizeable hunk of lasagne had plenty of meaty flavor, and a Greek salad was an honest presentation of mixed greens with cucumber, red onions, tomatoes, kalamata olives, and banana peppers. Buttery shrimp scampi blew the top off the garlic meter. Bar. 2708 Elm (214-551-0500). Lunch Tue-Fri 11-2. Dinner Tue & Wed 5:30-10, Thur & Fri 5:30-11, Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun & Mon. $$-$$$ (w+)
URBAN MARKET CAFE
What a boon for downtown loft dwellers. Take an elevator or the stairs down to the first floor, order a stick-to-the-ribs breakfast of ginger-cinnamon pancakes sided with thick-cut bacon and a slice of fresh orange, gulp down a cup of excellent coffee, and be out the door in short order. And that's just mornings. Lunch and dinner are served too. Bar. 1500 N. Jackson (214-741-3663). Open Mon-Fri 6 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat & Sun 8-10. $-$$ (w+)
Houston
BAMBOO HOUSE
A simple, attractive setting, with a curved bar and banquettes, suits straightforward pan-Asian fare. Plump fried pork dumplings started us off well. Tempura shrimp, perfectly cooked in an airy batter, made a fine light entree for us, especially when we supplemented it with bites of our friend's Thai red curry with chicken, eggplant, onion, jicama, and assorted peppers. Beer & wine. 540 Waugh Dr (713-522-3442). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. $-$$ (w+)
DOLCE VITA
See Pat's Pick, page 131. Bar. 500 Westheimer Rd (713-520-8222). Dinner Tue-Fri 5-11, Sat 5-midnight, Sun 5-10. Closed Mon. $$ (w+)
MALONEY'S STEAKHOUSE
This attractive steakhouse in the burbs blends cozy and contemporary, making it a hot spot for intimate dinners and large parties alike. Starters include crabmeat with caramelized pears and candied pecans. We approved equally of our beef filet and our blackened mahimahi with grilled shrimp. A shared slice of New York-style cheesecake and a trip to the piano bar for music and dancing ended an enjoyable evening. Bar. 24641 Gladebrook Dr (281-440-5500). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. Reservations recommended. $$$ (w+)
THAI SPICE
Located in an attractive strip center in the rapidly developing Heights area, Thai Spice packs them in for tom yum goong, loaded with shrimp and lemongrass. We'd also order the pad Thai again, with noodles, egg, peanuts, and shrimp in perfect proportion. And the tender, high-quality beef in the panang curry elevated it a step above most versions of this classic. The service is attentive and the setting serene, despite the crowds. BYOB. 450 19th (713-880-9992). Open Tue-Fri 11-2:30 & 5-10, Sat & Sun 11-10. Closed Mon. $$ (w+)
Lubbock
LISA WEST'S DOUBLE NICKEL STEAKHOUSE
If the name, elegant decor, and high-quality steaks remind you of a popular eighties chophouse, there's a reason. The creator of Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House in Dallas consulted with Ms. West on the concept and design. And we love the results, so much so that "the best steak I've ever had" was uttered at our table and not one parsing argument followed. As for the side of creamed corn we had with our perfectly prepared New York strip, it rivaled the signature fried cheese. Bar. 5405 Slide Rd (805-792-0055). Dinner Mon-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. $$$ (w+)
San Antonio
SAGE
Massimo Pallottelli has imported a new chef and opened a second restaurant, elegant and be-columned, in the boutique Fairmont Hotel. A well-prepared preliminary menu augured well. Our appetizer of marinated goat cheese with asparagus and mushrooms was intensely flavorful, and a Mediterranean treatment of halibut with olives and tomatoes scored high. So did a creamy seafood risotto. Crisp service made for a most pleasant evening. Bar. Fairmont Hotel, 401 5. Alamo (210-212-5820). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Mon-Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. $$$$ (w+)
Amarillo
CAROLINA'S WOODFIRED ITALIAN
(Update) This new pizzeria and Italian eatery may be small (we're talking 12-tables small), but it's big on flavor. Witness chicken parmigiana, with a tasty marinara sauce and a side of angel hair pasta; Carolina's Special pizza, with a paper-thin crust; and the tiramisu. Beer & wine. 2916 Wolflin Ave (806-358-2099). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. $-$$ (w+)
YE OLD PANCAKE STATION
This intimate neighborhood diner offers every breakfast dish imaginable. But we're also fond of lunch, when homemade specialties include turkey and dressing, meat loaf, and tasty beef stew with fresh cornbread muffins. 2800 Virginia Circle (806-355-0211). Open Mon-Sat 6-2, Sun 7-2. $-$$ (w)
Austin
BEN'S LONGBRANCH BBQ
The line was long at this popular east-side barbecue spot, where politicians and executives eat elbow to elbow with blue-collar workers. Ah, but it was Wednesday, and Ben Wash was serving his delicious collard greens. We like them and just about everything else Wash gets a hankering to fix: smothered pork chops, chicken and dumplings, and, of course, 'cue. Beer. 900 E. 11th (512-477-2516). Open Mon-Thur 10:30-9, Fri & Sat 10:30-11, Sun noon-4. $ (w+)
BUENOS AIRES CAFE
See New + Noteworthy, p. 132.
CAPITOL BRASSERIE
Think of New York's Balthazar or Le Grand Colbert, in Paris. Now Austin's got its own version of a French brasserie. The menu hits the right bases: mussels and frites, salade nicoise, duck confit. Best of several visits included trout amandine, in brown butter, and coq au vin. Bar. 310 Colorado (512-472-6770). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-5. Dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. (Light food Sun & Mon until midnight, Tue-Thur until 1 a.m., Fri & Sat until 3 a.m.) Sat & Sun brunch 10-3. $$ (w+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
(Update) How lucky we are to have chef David Bull in our fair city. The flavor combinations--an apple salad accented with fresh ricotta and crisp sweet potato and topped with spiced lemon vinaigrette, and a smoked quail garnished with micro cilantro accompanied by a Patron granita--put Bull's ambiton and creativity front and center. Our tender Jameson Farms rack of lamb with wild-mushroom risotto impressed, as did the braised Kobe beef short ribs (our companion ate in silence). The dining room is elegant and sophisticated. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7152). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended weekends. $$$-$$$$ (w+)
HOME SLICE PIZZA
Now, this place looks like Austin--nobody dressed up, counter made out of salvaged doors. Behind said counter are guys hand-stretching dough for thin-crust pizzas and calzoni. We were quite happy with the spinach, ricotta, mozzarella, and olive oil white pizza. Beer & wine. 1415 S. Congress Ave (512-444-7437). Open Mon, Wed & Thur 11:30-11, Fri & Sat 11:30-midnight (to-go window until 3 a.m.), Sun noon-10. Closed Tue. $ (w+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
(Update) From the moment you spot the majestic trees wrapped in welcoming white lights, you know you're in for something special. We swooned over both the sumptuous elk enchiladas with mole and the lean bison steak stuffed with blackened turkey tenderloin and served with a peppery cranberry relish. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (w+)
** JEFFREY'S
It's true there are more fashionable restaurants in town, but we're quite fond of the unassuming ambience at this venerable West Austin hot spot. We felt let down by just-average peppered sea scallops. But the ridiculously tender and juicy lamb T-bone reassured us that the world is indeed round. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (tasting menus $75). (w+)
LA TRAVIATA
Come on Wednesdays and Fridays and treat yourself to one of the best renditions of chicken parmigiana you'll ever have--tender, crisply crusted, and garnished with julienne scallions. Couldn't be simpler, couldn't be better. Generous too. The skinny, rock-walled room is old Austin at its best. Bar. 314 Congress Ave (512-479-8131). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. $$ (w+)
MUSASHINO
(Update) Not an upstart with happy-hour discounts and incessant trance music, Musashino still runs rings around the newcomers. Everything's good at this welcoming, low-ceilinged place with its blowfish lamps, from cooked appetizers and entrees to traditional nigiri sushi and beginner rolls such as the Evil Knievel (a pretty creation of raw salmon, avocado, and cucumber with garnishes of tangy smelt roe, sesame seeds, and lemon zest). Bar. 3407 Greystone Dr at Loop 1 (MoPac) (512-795-8593). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Sun & Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Mon. $$ (w+)
RANCH 616
(Update) Cheap gold sports trophies. Check. Plenty of taxidermy. Check. Veladoras. Check. So it goes at this aptly named downtown spot, where the food is campfire grub, home cookin', and haute cuisine, sometimes all at once. Try the Don Combo, a duo of crunchy fried calamari and oysters (with...
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