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Article Excerpt
The Dining Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a TEXAS MONTHLY restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY Dining Guide, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designated a superlative restaurant. ** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant. * One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12 $$ $12-$30 $$$ $30-$45 $$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
ARARAT
(Update)
Everything about the meal seemed magical, from our delicious mezze (a mini combo of hummus, babe ganouj, tabouleh, and maust museer, cool yogurt flavored with cucumber and garlic) to the belly dancer spinning around the room. Lamb ruled supreme at our table--roasted with rosemary and garlic (heavy on the garlic) and a la kebab (our fave) with grilled zucchini and perfect Persian rice. Colorful rugs cover the walls of this small, unpretentious space. Belly dancing Thur-Sun 8-10. BYOB ($1.50 corkage fee). 111 E. North Loop (512-419-1692). Dinner Mon 6-10 (vegetarian items only), Tue-Sun 5-10. AE, MC, V. $$
BELLAGIO ITALIAN BISTRO
And the award for "brutal honesty in service" goes to ... the knowledgeable and frank waiter on our recent visit to this classic, taupe-toned dining room. He pointed out all of the menu's hits and misses. And since we're handing out awards, we'd like to give one to the waiter-recommended special of homemade ravioli, which were plump with sausage and broccoli. Bar. 6507 Jester Blvd (512-346-8228). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended weekends. DC, DS, MC, V. $$$ (W+)
* DRISKILL GRILL
(Update)
From a salad of microgreens and sweet Ruby Red grapefruit sections (with St. Andre cheese and a fabulous vanilla-vodka vinaigrette) to a sophisticated-but-fun dessert of the lightest peanut butter nougat between homemade graham crackers with a dab of caramel sauce, we ran out of oohs and ahhs. In between came a duo of perfect little lamb chops and lamb ossobuco (well paired with a tangy Jerusalem artichoke puree) and beef and spuds from paradise--a velvety tenderloin seasoned with smoked mustard seeds and accompanied by black-truffle whipped potatoes. The luxurious chandelier-lit room defines propriety, but the well-trained servers are all friendly smiles. Three hours flew by. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EASTSIDE CAFE
(Update)
Back in the day--that would be about a generation ago--a lot of restaurants looked like this: comfy old houses with dark woodwork and a list of blackboard specials. But the Eastside keeps things modern with dishes like a lunchtime Thai-tinged salad with lots of lettuces and slivered carrots topped with grilled marinated chicken and toasted peanuts. Our Greek salad with tons of feta and kalamata olives was superb, much better than the bready fried pasta triangles filled with julienne vegetables in a too-tart Asian dipping sauce. Beer & wine. 2113 Manor Rd (512-476-5858). Open Mon-Thur 11:15-9:30, Fri 11:15-10, Sat 10-10, Sun 10-9:30. Cr. $$ (W+)
EL MESON TAQUERIA
(Update)
Festooned with colorful pinatas, this cheerful, out-of-the-way spot is well worth a tussle with the dreaded I-35/Ben White intersection. The friendly folks at the counter gave us plenty of time to decide among the, oh, eight or so tempting and authentic options: rich, nutty pollo en pipian, cochinita pibil, garden-fresh calabacitas, fajitas, barbacoa--each dish served with fresh corn or flour tortillas, pinto or black beans, and rice. It's all the fortification you'll need to brave your way back home. Beer & margaritas. 5808 Burleson (512-416-0749). Open Mon 6:30-2:30, Tue-Thur 6:30-8, Fri & Sat 6:30-9:30, Sun 7-2. Cr. $ (W+)
FINN AND PORTER
Towering ceilings, lights suspended from wires, a wall of glass that frames the icy Frost tower: This steak and seafood house feels cosmopolitan. Alas, the service and the noise level need work, but the food--a perfectly cooked eight-ounce filet in Madeira sauce and sweet butter-poached lobster--promises a force to be reckoned with. Bar. Hilton Hotel, 500 E, 4th (512-493-4900). Dinner 7 days 5-11. Cr. $$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
(Update)
An evening at cozy Hudson's proves it's polite to share. At chef Jeff Blank's twinkling Hill Country hideaway, the sharing is all about experiencing the kitchen's creativity with wild and fun flavors. We swapped bites of everything from smoky cascabel-and-espresso-rubbed elk backstrap to a duo of venison and lobster dressed in a rich guava-sour cherry sauce. A dessert trio of cremes brulees (espresso, chocolate, and vanilla) truly had us playing nice with others. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1359). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W)
** JEFFREY'S
At Jeffrey's, we expect the best, so we were surprised when our lamb T-bone arrived way too rare. The second incarnation--medium-rare and velvety--set the world right again and matched our fond feelings for the tender grilled quail and silky lobster bisque. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (Tasting menus $55.) (W) With assistance.
JOHN MUELLER'S BAR-B-Q
When you spy a cinder-block building painted with the Texas flag, you're at the right place. Grab a cold one from the cast-iron bathtub, and get your plastic tray piled high with plump sausages, smoky pork ribs, and tender, peppery brisket. Beer. 1917 Manor Rd (512-236-0283). Open Mon-Fri 7 a.m.-6:30 p.m, Sat 7-4. Closed Sun. No Cr. $ (W+)
MARS
Mars conjures a vibe that's both red hot and nonchalantly cool. It's an apt setting for the global-eclectic menu of tandoor specialties, curries, noodle bowls, and more. Pork loin came stuffed with baby spinach, Thai chiles, and shiitakes, while a ginger-glazed wahoo was offered with pickled fennel. Bar. 1610 San Antonio (512-472-3901). Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-10, Tue-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
7
Mediterranean blue walls, white trim, headboard ceilings--all that's missing is a little sand on the floor. Though we were initially dismayed by music more suited to a dance club and an appetizer of weighty potato gnocchi, lo, the music changed to pleasant jazz and two skillfully prepared entrees appeared: rosy ahi tuna and mild Australian barramundi. Beer & wine. 1716 S. Congress Ave (512-383-8877). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5:30-9. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
SULLIVAN'S
(Update)
Is the in-crowd allure of this warehouse district steakhouse waning? We'd like to say the food is as good as ever, but even that would be an iffy statement. True, a squeeze of lemon perked up our fried calamari, and our wedge salads were crisp, just as they should be, but then the problems began. The short ribs needed salt, the potatoes au gratin tasted bland, wines under $50 proved few and far between, and--unbelievably--our eight-ounce filet mignon proved to be the end cut. Have you ever? Bar. 300 Colorado (512-495-6504). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Fri 5:30-11, Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. Cr. $$$ (W+)
TAJ PALACE
The pleasantly pink dining room of this longtime favorite for northern Indian cuisine was bustling with buffetgoers. Choosing from the menu, we were pleased with the offerings of the tandoor: a mixed grill that included murg tikka makhni, moist chicken bathed in a fragrant herbed tomato sauce. Beer & wine. 6700 Middle Fiskville Rd (512-452-9959). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2, Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri-Sun 5:30-10:30. Cr. $$ (W+)
THAI TARA
We spotted a local celebrity at this casually modern Thai cafe. But our brush with greatness didn't end there. From the tod mun--fried spiced fish patties with cucumber dipping sauce--to a bowl of tom jeud (the Thai equivalent of chicken soup), the fare was delicious. Beer & wine. 601 W. 6th (512-236-0856). Open Mon-Thur 11-3 & 5-10, Fri 11-3 & 5-11, Sat noon-11, Sun noon-10. Cr. $$ (W+)
UCHI
Here you'll find thirtysomethings with chopsticks clicking as they devour beautifully arranged pieces of sushi. We're especially fond of the yellowfin. But everything chef-owner Tyson Cole creates is delicious. Lovely cooked entrees are offered as well. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30. Closed Sun. AE, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
VIVO
The colorful space was buzzing during our recent lunchtime drop-in, and it's easy to see why: good, affordable, and--here's the kicker--healthy Mexican food. Like a lovesick pup, we can't seem to resist the smoky salsa or the subtle enchiladas verdes. Bar. 2015 Manor Rd (512-482-0300). Open Mon 11-3, Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
DONA EMILIA'S
We got off to a great start on the tree-shaded patio of Dona Emilia's stylish new location; perusing the adventurous menu of both traditional South American and nuevo latino dishes, we shared savory beef-and-potato empanadas and a sampler of grilled meats, all of it excellent and served with a quartet of wonderfully piquant salsas. Our entrees, however, exhibited a deadly flaw: robust flavors trumped by careless execution. Lomo de cerdo a la parrilla (grilled pork loin) was dry, and churrasco steak ordered medium-rare was shoe-leather tough. The servers' enthusiasm is palpable; perhaps the new kitchen has yet to hit its stride. Bar. 101 San Jacinto Blvd (512-478-2520). Open Sun noon-6, Mon-Thur 11-3 & 5-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
ELENA'S
The dinner specialties at laidback Elena's are worthy indulgences. We opted for the pollo rojo, tender chicken in a zesty red sauce served atop a bed of Spanish rice. Our Mexican food cravings unfulfilled, we also helped ourselves to homemade pork tamales. Bar. 6290 Phelan, Beaumont (409-861-2800) and 1865 College, Beaumont (409-832-1203). Phelan: Open Sun-Thur 8-9, Fri & Sat 8-10. Call for hours at other location. AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W+)
RAO'S BAKERY
On a recent visit, trendy Rao's was hopping with latenighters in need of a sugar and caffeine fix. Our sweet tooth demanded a slice of decadent strawberry cheesecake and a cup of creamy peach gelato, one of Rao's more than 20 made-from-scratch flavors. 4440 Dowlen Road, Beaumont (409-347-3400) and 2596 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-832-4342). Dowlen: Open Mon-Thur 6:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Bun 7-8. Call for hours at other location. AE, MC, V. $ (W)
SANDERSON'S BAR AND GRILL
We followed a starter of moist and tender pork ribs with perfectly seasoned blackened chicken over a bed of creamy fettuccine Alfredo. Dark woods, high ceilings, and attentive service give this bar and grill a friendly, familiar feel. Bar. 2095 U.S. Hwy 69N, Nederland (409-722-8900). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
THE SCHOONER
This seafood institution will leave you feeling like you've dined below deck--scant windows give that effect. Worth the trip aboard: fried catfish tasting as though it had been caught that morning and shrimp stuffed with a flavorful onion-parsley cornbread mixture. Bar. 1507 US Hwy 69S, Nederland (409-722-2323). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W+)
THE TEA ROOM
We stumbled into a veritable garden party at this flower-bedecked spot. The lunch special includes a choice of half a sandwich or quiche, plus a cup of soup and a green salad. We went with the creamy tomato-basil and the chicken-salad (with crushed pineapple and toasted almonds). 6465 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-861-1900). Lunch Tue-Sat 11-2. Closed Sun & Mon. MC, V. $$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
POBLANO GRILL
At this comfortable Tex-Mex spot, we dined in upscale style (think fountains, classic columns, mirrored table tops) without paying upscale prices. From a starter of roasted poblano soup (a creamy blend with celery, carrots, and fresh thyme) to our entree, the signature puerco guisado (pork tenderloin cubes in a spicy tomatillo sauce), all we could think was "This is too good to be true." Bar. 3350 Dowlen Rd, Beaumont (409-860-0055). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
AKA SUSHI
The fluorescent fish painting (with requisite black light) adds drama to the small Japanese restaurant with red walls and paper lanterns. But the story really unfolds in the kitchen: crisp yet cool sushi-tempura combination rolls, mild-flavored miso soup, and tender chicken teriyaki. Beer & wine. 415 N. Water (361-882-8885). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 4:30-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. MC, V. $$ (W)
KATZ 21 STEAK AND SPIRITS
(Update)
The dark wood paneling and extensive wine list put us in mind of a men's club. The highlight on a recent evening was the steak Oskar--a tender eight-ounce filet mignon topped with lump crabmeat and hollandaise. We also approved of the Greek salad, replete with chunks of cucumber, black olives, artichoke hearts, and Gorgonzola cheese. Bar. 317 N. Mesquite (361-884-1815). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$$ (W)
LAVENDER
At elegant Lavender, chef Christopher Aeby is whipping up creative combinations, from a delicious asparagus-and-black-trumpet-mushroom salad to seared diver scallops with a Chardonnay reduction. Tender, mild Hawaiian mon chong was accompanied by Puy lentils, hen of the woods mushrooms, and Swiss chard in a lemon-olive-caper vinaigrette. Beer & wine. Village shopping center, 3815 S. Alameda (361-814-0400). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. AE, MC V. $$$ (Prix fixe $55 & $105.) (W)
THAI GUY
Thank goodness new owners Mike and Darla Phophirom have kept the vivid mural and the same menu. Our lunch began with spring rolls stuffed with fresh cilantro, bean sprouts, and shrimp. Gai massaman (chicken cooked in massaman curry and coconut milk) was filling--and spicy. Beer & wine. Lamar Park shopping center, 3812 S. Alameda (361-855-4448). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Sat 11:30-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W)
WATER STREET OYSTER BAR
We can't resist the crunchy pecan-crusted fried oysters at this popular downtown restaurant or the caldo xochitl (chicken soup rich with chick-peas and topped with fresh tomato and avocado). A massive reproduction of The Birth of Venus adds a funk element to the...
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