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Article Excerpt
The Dining Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange far a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a TEXAS MONTHLY restaurant renewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline awl report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant renews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY Dining Guide. Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78787,
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and
Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC; MasterCard.
V: Visa Cr: All major credit cards accepted.
No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $30-$45
$$$$ More than $45
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area end restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs
No symbol: This place not accessible.
Austin
ALBORZ PERSIAN CUISINE
You'll find a variety of kebabs and foul hearty stews to choose from (try the khoresh gheymeh, a seductive blend of sauteed beef and yellow split peas in a tomato-saffron sauce), but we were most entranced by appetizers such as garlicky hummus and tangy baked eggplant topped with yogurt and mint. Memorabilia on the walls sets a Middle Eastern tone Beer & wine. 3300 W. Anderson Ln (512-420-2222). Open Sun-Thur 11:30 9:30, Fri & Sat 1130-10, Cr. $$
BELLAGIO ITALIAN BISTRO
And the award for "brutal honesty in service" goes to ... the knowledgeable and frank waiter on our recent visit to this classic, taupe toned dining room. And since we're handing out awards, we'd like to give one to the waiter-recommended special of homemade ravioli, which were plump with sausage and broccoli. Bar. 6507 Jester Bird (512-345-8228). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30 10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Closed Sun. Reservations recommended weekends. DC, DS, ME, V. $$$ (W+)
CHEZ NOUS
Tired of hamburgers and sandwiches, we hit this downtown French bistro for lunch. A bowl of savory potato-and-leek soup and a special of melt-in-your-mouth trout meuniere were just what we needed to recharge our batteries. Lace curtains spiff up the casual decor. Beer & wine. 510 Neches (512-473-2413). Lunch Tue-Fri 21:45-2. Dinner Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. Cr. $$-$$$
FINN AND PORTER
Towering ceilings, lights suspended from wires, a wall of glass that frames the icy Frost tower: This place feels cosmopolitan. Alas, the service and the noise level need work, but the food--a perfectly cooked eight-ounce filet in Madeira sauce and sweet butter-poached lobster atop chanterelle risotto--promises a force to be reckoned with. Bar. Hilton Hotel, 500 E. 4th (512-493-4900). Dinner 7 days 5-11 Cr. $$$ (W+)
FONDA SAN MIGUEL
Start with the creamy corn chowder, then follow up with the fine pescado tikin xik, an achiote-rubbed fish filet garnished with pickled-red-onion slices and sided by an exceptionally tasty tomato based sauce. The haciendalike dining room has charm to spare. Bar. 2330 W. North Loop Blvd (512-459-4121). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9;30, Fri-Sat 5-10:30. Sun brunch 11-2. DC, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
From the boldly inventive, game-centered menu (with dishes like rattlesnake cakes and an adventure-some wild boar schnitzel with apple cider-brandy sauce to the bungalowlike building, evenings at Hudson's are a treat Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (522-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
JEAN-LUC'S BISTRO
Uninspired decor notwithstanding, chef Shawn Cirkiel's imaginative food is dazzling. Our favorites at this pleasant downtown spot: exquisite peace gnocchi, refreshingly simple roasted cod wiCk crispy squid one steamed clams in a tarragon both, a gloriously rich beef filet in a Shiraz reduction, and a chilled plum-soup palate cleanser. Bar 705 Colorado (512-494-0033). Dinner Tue-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 9:30-11 Closed Sun & Mon. Cr. $$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
At Jeffrey's, we expect the best, so we were surprised when our lamb T-bone arrived way too rare. The second incarnation--medium-rare ant velvety--set the world right again and matched our fond feelings for the tender grilled quail and silky lobster bisque. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (522-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (Tasting menus $38 & $60) (W) With assistance.
JOHN MUELLER'S BAR-B-Q
When you spy a cinder-block building painted with the Texas flag and a parking lot full of pickups, you're at the right place. Push open the screen cool, grab a cold one from the cast-iron bathtub full of ice, and get your plastic tray piled high with plump sausages, smoky pork ribs, tender, peppery brisket. Sides include the usual suspects, end there's a self-serve. Round Rock Donut dispenser. Ah, yes. Nothing like an all-meat lunch followed by a doughnut or two. Beer. 1917 Manor Rd (512-236-0283). Open Mon-Fri 7 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Sat 7-6. Closed Sun. No Cr. $ (W+)
MARS
Mars conjures a vibe that's both red hot and nonchalantly cool. It's on apt selling for the global-eclectic menu of tandoor specialties, curries, noodle bowls, and more Pork loin came stuffed with baby spinach, Thai chiles, and shiitakes, while a ginger-glazed wahoo was offered with pickled fennel. Bar. 1610 San Antonio (512-472-3901). Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-10, Tue-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W+)
MCCORMICK AND SCHMICK'S
Known for its fresh seafood and daily changing menus, this national chain recently opened an outpost in downtown's newest skyscraper. The mahimahi was fantastic and arrived perched on a bed of Asian slaw (pineapple!) But our bland bowl of gumbo might as well have come from a mix. Bar Frost Bank Tower, 401 Congress Ave (512-236-9600). Open Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 4-midnight, Sun 4-11. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
TAJ PALACE
The pleasantly pink dining room of this longtime favorite for northern Indian cuisine was bustling with buffetgoers. Choosing from the menu, we were pleased with the offerings of the tandoor: a mixed grill that included murg tikka makhni, moist chicken bathed in a fragrant herbed tomato sauce. Beer & wine. 6700 Middle Fiskville Rd (512-452-9959). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2, Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri-Sun 5:30-10:30. Cr. $$ (W+)
THAI TARA
We spotted a local celebrity at this attractive restaurant on the trendy portion of Sixth Street. But our brush with greatness didn't end there. From the tod mun--fried spiced fish patties with cucumber dipping sauce--to a bowl of tom jeud (the Thai equivalent of chicken soup, according to our server), the fare was delicious. We ordered tom ka with shrimp served in a firepot despite protests from our companion, who swore she disliked coconut. Turns out she was wrong. Beer & wine. 601 W. 6th (512-236-0856). Open Mon-Thur 11-3 & 5-10, Fri 11-3 & 5-11, Sat noon-11, Sun noon-10. Cr. $$ (W+)
UCHI
Whenever we frequent this modish spot, we feel like part of the in crowd. Here you'll find thirtysomethings with chopsticks clicking as they devour beautifully arranged piece of sushi. We're especially fond of the toro and yellowfin. But everything chef-owner Tyson Cole creates is delicious. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30. Closed Sun. AE, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
VIVO
The colorful space was buzzing during our recent lunchtime drop-in, and it's easy to see why: good, affordable, and-here's the kicker--healthy Mexican food. Like a lovesick pup, we can't seem to resist the smoky salsa or the subtle enchiladas verdes. Bar. 2015 Manor Rd (512-482-0300). Open Mon 11-3, Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
COPA COBANA
Keep your eyes peeled for this small coffeehouse run by the same folks who own Habana, or you'll drive right by it. Offerings range from pastries (made at Habana) to empanadas (the chicken are good) to sandwiches. We enjoyed our tasty Cuban-pork, ham, cheese, mustard, and pickles on pressed bread outside on the patio overlooking shrubs and blooming flowers at a nearby plant shop. An assortment of fruit drinks, sodas, and smoothies adds to the tropical ambience 2810 S. Congress, next door to the Great Outdoors nursery (512-462-24/3) Open 7 days 11-9. MC V. $
7
Mediterranean blue walls, white trim, beadboard ceilings--all that's missing is a little sand on the floor. This low-key seafood restaurant scours the seven seas, bringing back what's fresh, selling it by the ounce, and offering a choice of sauces, from greenapple barbecue to lemon-thyme beurre blanc. Through we were initially dismayed by lighting set at interrogation level, music more suited for a dance club, and an appetizer to weighty potato gnocchi, lo, the music changed to pleasant jazz and our entrees appeared: rosy ahi tuna, incomparably tender Gulf shrimp, mild Australian barramundi-all impeccably fresh and skillfully prepared. Beer & wine 1716 S. Congress Ave (512-383-8877). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5:30-9. DC, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
BRAD'S PLACE
Typically, if you're required to you seat your self and order from a menu scribbled across a Dry-Erase board, you don't expect upscale entrees. Yet that's exactly what you'll find at this bohemian favorite. Our filet Gorgonzola, tender beef wrapped around rich cheese, was worth every penny. BYOB. 2306 Hazel, Beaumont (409-839-8100). Open Mon & Tue 11-2 Wed-Fri 11-2 & 5-9 Sat 11-9. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V $$-$$$ (W+)
ELENA'S
The dinner specialties at laidback Elena's are worthy indulgences. We opted for the pollo rojo, tender chicken in a zesty red sauce (with just the right kick) served atop a bed of Spanish rice and accompanied by frijoles a la charra. Our Mexican food cravings unfulfilled, we also helped ourselves to homemade pork tamales, which just happen to be some of the best in town. Bar. 6290 Phelan, Beaumont (409 861-2800). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W+)
RAO'S BAKERY
On our recent, visit, we found trendy Rao's hopping with late-nighters in need of a little sugar and caffeine fix. Our sweet tooth demanded a slice of decadent strawberry cheesecake and a cup of creamy peach gelato, one of more than 20 made-from-scratch flavors that use ingredients imported from Terino, Italy. 4440 Dowlen Road, Beaumont (409-347-3400) and 2596 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-842-4342). Dowlen: Open Mon-Thur 6:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11 Sun 8-7. Call for hours at other location. AE, MC, V. $ (W+)
SANDERSON'S BAR AND GRILL
We followed a starter of moist and tender pork ribs with perfectly seasoned blackened chicken over a bed of creamy fettuccine Alfredo. Dark woods, high ceilings, and attentive service give this bar and grill a friendly, familiar feel. Bar. 2095 U.S. Hwy 69N, Nederland (409-722-8900). Open Sun-Thur 11-10 10, Fri & Sat 11-11 AE, DS, MC V. $$ (W+)
THE SCHOONER
This seafood institution will leave you feeling like you've dined below deck-scant windows give that effect. Worth the trip aboard: fried catfish tasting as though it had been caught that morning and shrimp stuffed with a flavorful onion-parsley cornbread mixture. Bar. 1507 US Hwy 695, Nederland (409-722-2323). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
THE TEA ROOM
We stumbled into a veritable garden party at this flower-bedecked spot--in a bland strip mall, no less. The lunch special includes a choice of half a sandwich or quiche, plus a cup of soup and a green salad. We went with the creamy (yet not too rich) tomato-basil and the chicken-salad (with refreshing crushed pineapple toasted almonds, and a curry-spiked dressing that left us wanting more). For dessert, try the homemade bread pudding in bourbon sauce. 6465 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-861-1900). Lunch Tue-Sat 11-2. Closed Sun & Mon. MC, V. $$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
AKA SUSHI
The fluorescent fish painting (with regutsite black light) ands, drama to this small Japanese restaurant with red walls and paper lanterns. But the story really unfolds in the kitchen: crisp yet cool sushi-tempura combination rolls, mild-flavored miso soup, and tender chicken teriyaki. Beer & wine. 415 N. Water (361-882-8885). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 4:30-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. MC, V. $$ (W)
LAVENDER
At the elegant Lavender, chef Christopher Aeby is whipping up creative combinations, from a delicious asparagus and black-trumpet-mushroom salad to seared diver scallops with a Chardonnay reduction. The Hawaiian mon chong, a mild fish that arrived deliciously tender, was accompanied by Puy lentils, hen of the woods mushrooms, and Swiss chard in a lemon-olive-caper viniagrette. Callebaut chocolate fondant with orange-scented espresso ice cream proved magnificent. Beer & wine. Village shopping center, 3815 S. Alameda (361-814-0400). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. AE, MC, V. $$$ (Prix fixe $55 & 105.) (W)
SMALL PLANET DELICATESSEN AND BAKERY
The art-filled deli is known for fresh sandwiches and frothy cappuccino. We love the creamy shrimp-and-roasted-corn bisque, which balances the sweetness of the corn with a hint of cayenne. 3824 S. Alameda (361-855-1892). Open Mon-Fri 7:30-5, Sat 8-5. Closed Sun. Cr. $ (W)
THAI GUY
Thank goodness new owners Mike and Darla Phophirom have kept the same menu at Thai Guy. Our lunch began with spring rolls stuffed with fresh cilantro, bean sprouts, and shrimp. Gai massaman (chicken cooked in massaman curry and coconut milk) was filling--and spicy. For those who prefer less heat, most items are available with milder seasoning. The hot tea was stable and very bitter--a problem quickly remedied by a passing waitress, who brought us a freshly made pot. The vibrant wall mural is still around too. Beer & wine. Lamar Park shopping center, 3812 S. Alameda (361-855-4448). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Sat 11:30-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W)
WATER STREET OYSTER BAR
We can't resist the crunchy, pecan-crusted fried oysters at the popular downtown restaurant or the caldo xochitl (chicken soup rich with chick-peas and topped with fresh tomato and avocado). A massive reproduction of The Birth of Venus adds a funk element to this renovated warehouse. Bar. 309 N. Water (361-881-9448). Open Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. AS, DS, MC, V. $S (W)
Dallas
AL'S PIZZERIA
There's always the superior pizza (by the slice or hubcap size), but for the really robust appetite, we like the rich and spicy baked ziti and a calzone, full of cheeses and meats, that will take your breath away. If you're not stuffed to the gills, cheesecake will deliver the coup de grace Beer & wine, 3701 W. Northwest Hwy (Loop 12) (214-350-2714). Open Mon-Thur 10-10, Fri & Sat 10-11, Sun 11-10. AE, DS, MC V. $ (W+)
ATRIUM CAFE
After strolling the...
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