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Article Excerpt
The Dining Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identifies are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a TEXAS MONTHLY restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY Dining Guide, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent atypical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ 31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
AQUARELLE
Inside this sunny bungalow, tucked away from a boozy Sixth Street, is French cuisine in fine form. Our evening of indulgence ended just as it began, with us foraging for the delicious essence of some culinary treat--first, for the warm herbed goat cheese that filled out a delicate, buttery puff pastry and last, for the oozy chocolate center of the artful souffle cake. Between the two, we relished golden day boat scallops perched on a roasted sweet corn-potato compote. Beer & wine. 505 W. Rio Grande (512-479-8117). Dinner Tue-Thur 6-9, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
CAFE CAPRICE
(Update) We had this quaint American bistro almost all to ourselves on a chilly weekday evening. A decent merlot warmed us up a tad as we started on our delicious romaine salads with asiago cheese and a traditional Caesar dressing (so good we wanted to drink it). The medium-rare filet mignon (perfectly pink, juicy, and tender) with tasty whipped mashers received top marks from our group. The pan-seared trout atop blinis and an artichoke puree didn't fare as well--we thought it an odd combination of flavors. Beer & wine. 900 W. 10th (512-477-5575). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Tue-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun &Mon. Cr. $$$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
(Update) The Grill blends the elegance of a bygone era with decidedly modern cuisine, and the results are as interesting as they are unexpected. Alas, our last meal was not the tour de force we've come to expect, with a lackluster poached lobster salad and a chop salad that seemed to be missing both its crunch and its promised Maytag cheese. Broiled spiny lobster, on the other hand, was a flaming-red masterpiece, the tender meat bathed in an aromatic lobster-orange butter. And a pistachio-crusted scallop, served with a scallop quenelle to boot, was divine. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 504 Brazos (512-391-7152). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:10-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
ENOTECA VESPAIO
It's hard to imagine a pleasanter wine bar, with its dark concrete floors and little tables for civilized noshing. And of course, the kitchen is Vespaio's, so the pastas, pizzas, and antipasti are terrific. Even a humble meatball sandwich was stellar, with near-fluffy meatballs (not the golf balls found elsewhere), a piquant tomato sauce, and cloudlike bread. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-7572). Open Mon-Sat 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun brunch 10-3. Cr. $$ (W+)
FINO
The idea at this stylish, multi-Mediterranean spot is to share numerous small plates, though some people become so food of what they've ordered (the cornmeal-crusted seared salmon with oyster mushrooms in a porcini cream sauce, for instance) that they resort to hoarding. We understood, because we hated to relinquish any of our tender, moist duck confit with a cold lentil salad. Bar. 2905 San Gabriel (512-474-2905). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Dinner reservations recommended. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
(Update) Undeniably romantic, with both traditional touches (a roaring fire, twinkling lights) and not-so-traditional ones (how many love stories involve a kangaroo entree?), Hudson's boldly courts your affection. Ours was ensured with a single morsel of the smoked backstrap of elk, which had been rubbed with an imaginative ancho-coffee-chocolate mix and paired to flavorful perfection with Gulf Coast crabmeat and an oh-so-Texas chipotle-lime "beer blanc." Dare we say it was love at first bite? Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 520 northbound, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue- Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
IRON WORKS BBQ
Given that the patio is so homey, we took advantage of the cool yet warm temp to linger at this stalwart barbecue joint for some time. After a plate of forearm-size beef ribs, a pork sandwich (a tad dry), and endless glasses of iced tea, we considered staying forever. Beer & wine. 100 Red River (512-478-4855). Open Mon-Sat 11-9. Closed Sun. AE, DE, MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
Jeffrey's Bar, off the main dining rooms, is a nifty, dark nook if you want a more casual dinner while still enjoying the entire menu. Not famished, we went light with a salad of utterly pristine romaine studded with candied pecans, fresh figs, and herb-crusted chevre, all gilded with a lovely sherry vinaigrette. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (tasting menus $75). (W+)
ROARING FORK
(Update) With food that's as bold as the decor, an Arizona-based restaurant that looks as if it was conjured up by a Dallas restaurateur dreaming of Colorado has a loyal Austin following. The greenchile pork stew is a must, and the Fork's contemporary spin on cowboy cooking shows in its seafood offerings, like sea bass in a red-curry broth and snapper crusted with cashews. Things don't always come together-meaty crab cakes were overwhelmed by their accompanying heavy slaw--but it's good eatin' when they do. Bar. Intercontinental Stephen F. Austin Hotel, 701 Congress Ave (512-583-0000). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
STARLITE
It's hard to imagine this treasure anywhere but the creaky old neighborhood house it once occupied, much less in the see-and-be-seen Warehouse District, land of "chocolatinis" and $7 parking. The service is still great, the food uneven--metallic-tasting scallops but scrumptious crispy oysters, a flavorless New York strip but very good (though lukewarm) black-truffle-stuffed pork loin. Bar. 407 Colorado (512-t74-9012). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Mon-Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
UCHI
Cooler temperatures find Austin's coolest Japanese fusion restaurant giving a seasonal spin to its always flawless raw materials, with results that are both surprising and delectable: Bluefin toro is strewn with dried cranberries and toasted almonds, while maguro sashimi cozies up to tangy goat cheese and crisp Fuji apple slices. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 5. Lamar (512-916-4808). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
The interior at this chic spot on South Congress may be minimalist, but the food is anything but. A chilled avocado soup (rich and silky) with garden-chile-marinated Gulf prawns proved excellent, as did the pan-seared sea bass. Bello! Bar. 1510 S. Congress Ave (512-441-5100). Dinner Tue-Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5-10, Closed Mon. Reservations taken Tue-Thur & Sun until 6:30. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
VIN BISTRO
Despite the lackluster service, the restaurant formerly known as Zin Bistro is still a charmer. In hopes of branding this sleek spot as a "wine restaurant," the dinner menu leads with the wine and suggests a food pairing. At lunch you're on your own (we liked the fish tacos with a kicky poblano coleslaw but nixed the wine on a workday). Bar. 1501 W. 38th (512-377-5252). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
KEBAB PALACE
As is oftentimes the case, memorable restaurants hide out in forgettable shopping centers. So it is with family-run Kebab Palace, a spare six-table spot that classifies itself as a "fancy hole in the wall" and specializes in the comfort foods of Macedonia. We got in on this Greek-style home cooking with ground-beef-stuffed bell peppers (a Wednesday-only treat), kofte (tasty beef meatballs that resemble mini sausages), and hearty lamb kebabs. Turns out that comfort food is comfort food, no matter where you're from. BYOB. 1319 Rutland (512-836-8668). Open Mon-Sat S a.m.-10 p.m. closed Sun. MC, V. $
Beaumont-Port Arthur
FAT MAC'S SMOKEHOUSE
Indoor seating is scant (seven--count 'em--tables), but a screened-in outdoor patio helps at this laid-back barbecue joint, where the brisket is lean and tender, the ribs are surprisingly kicky, and the unusual but tasty coleslaw features bits of apples and peanuts. Beer & wine. 5555 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-892-8600). Open Mon-Thur 10:30-8:30, Fri & Sat 10:30-9:30. Closed Sun. AE, MC, V. $$ (W+)
GREEN BEANERY
(Updated) Unscathed by Rita, the vibe at this quaint lunch spot was almost giddy on a recent visit (a bridal shower was going on). We got a buzz off the good times, helping ourselves to the day's special, cheesy chicken spaghetti, and healthy sides of fresh fruit and a salad of baby greens drizzled with a garlic-cucumber dressing. Creamy pumpkin cheesecake was pure bliss. Beer & wine. 2121 McFaddin, Beaumont (409-833-5913). Lunch Tue-Sat 11-2. Closed Sun & Mon. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W)
PINE TREE LODGE
Since 1984, owners Ken and Norma Miller have provided the Golden Triangle with a place to kick back and enjoy scenic Taylor's Bayou. As for the vittles, the light, crispy fried fish hit the spot, and the hushpuppies were so good we ordered another round. Beer & wine. 3296 Pine Tree Rd, LaBelle (409-796-1600). Open Mon, Tue & Thur 10-9, Sat 10-10, Sun 11-9. Closed Wed. DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
RAO'S BAKERY
(Update) A little water damage (courtesy of Rita) hasn't stopped the coffee from flowing, the gelato from, well, being the same tasty, creamy gelato, and the sandwiches from being top-notch. Two favorites from a recent visit: Sicilian tuna on focaccia with tomato, onion, black olives, and pimiento cheese, and egg salad and green olives on a croissant. 2596 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-832-4342). Open Mon-Fri 5-6, Sat 7-3. Closed Sun. Call for other locations. AE, MC, V. $$ (W+)
WILLY RAY'S BAR-B-Q CO.
(Update) Rita shut Willy Ray's down for a few weeks, but this pit stop just off the interstate is back up and running. They do a mean beef brisket here, and succulent pork ribs too. As for the sides, our favorites were the potato casserole and the carrot souffle (heavy on the brown sugar and butter). If you're feeling ambitious, an all-you-can-eat buffet awaits. Beer & wine. 245 I-10N, Beaumont (409-832-7770). Open 7 days 11-9. AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
UNCLE HENRY'S TAMALES
This tamale shack goes back nearly seventy years, and, yes, there was an actual Uncle Henry. Today the tradition of scrumptious, moist pork tamales and soul-satisfying chili is carried on in three drive-throughs. We recommend the homemade sausage links and the cheesy chili pie. 4358 E. Lucas Dr (409-924-0302), Beaumont. Open Mon-Sat 10-8. Closed Sun. Call for other locations. AE, DS, MC, V. $
Corpus Christi
AGUA JAVA
This friendly downtown meeting spot still serves the best coffee in town, plus a handsome array of pastries (the carrot cake is richly textured with walnuts and coconut). Of the sandwich offerings, our favorite is the Monterrey: smoked turkey, pepper jack cheese, and avocado on grilled focaccia spread with cilantro mayo. Wireless hot spot. 320 William between Water& Chaparral (351-882-08551 Open Mon-Thur 6:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri 6:30-10, Sat 7-10, Bun 7-9. Cr. $ (W+)
H-E-B PLUS
(Update) The weather proved accommodating on a recent afternoon as we enjoyed the perfect al fresco meal from the grocery's food-to-go offerings: organic Gala apples and goat cheese plus wonderful chicken salad slathered on homemade tortillas, all washed down with a shared bottle of Veuve Clicquot. Sometimes, the simple things are best (well, the champagne's not exactly simple). Beer & wine. 5313 Saratoga (361-980-0993). Open 7 days 6 a.m.-1 a.m. AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W+)
KATZ 21
(Update) The signature Katz Meow, sauteed shrimp with white wine and lump crabmeat on toast points topped with a bearnaise sauce, was pure perfection. As was the stuffed flounder served with crabmeat. But the crab cakes, wrapped in overpowering bacon and served on undercooked onion, needed re-thinking. By South Texas standards the wine list is expansive. Venetian blinds and ceiling fans add a casual touch to the tables dressed in white linens. Bar. 317 N. Mesquite (361-884-1815). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-1:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$$ (W+)
NUEVO CAFE
This of-the-moment corner dell, with its sandwiches, salads, and (drumroll, please) signature roasted-poblano soup, draws a goodly lunch crowd. Creamy and rich with a peppery bite, said soup makes a fine companion for the club sandwich. The cafe's decor is minimal, with the work of local artists sprucing up the walls. 1124 Ayers (351-904-0425). Lunch Mon-Fri 7-3. Dinner Fri & Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W)
TANGO TEA ROOM
The decor is a pastiche of Indian and Moroccan via Hobby Lobby, but locals in the know come for chef John Butts' superior chicken salad flavored with sun-dried tomatoes, lime, and cilantro. The generous Mediterranean platter, bold with garlic, should satisfy any vampire slayer. Try one of the more than forty varieties of loose-leaf tea. Wireless hot spot. 505 S. Water, behind the Coliseum (361-883-9123). Open Mon-Thur 9-10, Fri-Sun 9-11. AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W)
VIETNAM
(Update) When Bac and Lien Nguyen outgrew their first restaurant, they moved into the original home of the Town Club, remodeled the place, and named it Vietnam. On a recent visit to this tastefully decorated spot, the pan-seared grouper with artichokes, ginger, and olives was fantastic. We must warn you, though, that any item (soft-shelled crab, oysters, fish, chicken, tofu) fried in Lien's black-pepper batter may become an addiction. Vegetarians will delight in the Japanese eggplant in...
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