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Article Excerpt
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Dining Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to he a TEXAS MONTHLY restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY Dining Guide, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: NO credit cards accepted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $30-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+)The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead with advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
ARARAT
Everything about the meal seemed magical, from our delicious roasted lamb (heavy on the garlic) to the belly dancer spinning around the room. Colorful rugs cover the walls of this small, unpretentious space. Belly dancing Thur-Sun 8-10. BYOB ($1.50 corkage fee). 111 E. North Loop (512-419-1592). Dinner Mon 6-10 (vegetarian items only), Tue-Sun 5-10. AE, MC, V. $$
ASTI TRATTORIA
(Update) This affable, contemporary trattoria has made many friends in its Hyde Park neighborhood, And why not? Oven roasted mussels in a tomatoey white-wine broth zapped with chile flakes could hardly have been better, nor could a special salad of Boston lettuce, chick peas, and goat cheese in a sprightly lemon mint dressing. And our crusty pizza (also a special) came with sausage, goat cheese, and slices of pear, a great sweet-savory combo. Bar. 408 E. 43rd (512-451-1218). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11, Closed Sun. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
DONA EMILIA'S
(Update) Our last outing, for birch, reflected none of the earlier problems with slap dash execution The kitchen was definitely in charge with a fine, simple ceviche or mixed seafood and shrimp, and it excelled with our entrees, a thick chicken-and-pureed-potato soup with yet more potatoes and corn on the cob, plus add your own capers and fresh avocado. But the most intriguing dish was a plantain-leaf-wrapped vegetable tamal studded with slow-cooked carrots, potatoes, and squash in a moist, fluffy yellow masa. A colorful setting and obliging servers kept the mood light and bright. Bar. 101 San Jacinto Blvd (512-478-2520). Open Sun noon-6, Mon-Thur 11-3 & 5-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
* DRISKILL GRILL
>From a salad of microgreens and sweet Ruby Red grapefruit sections to a sophisticated but-fun dessert of peanut butter nougat between homemade graham crackers, we ran out of oohs and ahhs. In between came a duo of lamb chops and lamb ossobuco (well paired with a tangy Jerusalem artichoke puree). The chandelier-lit room defines propriety. Bar. Driskil Hotel, 604 Brazes (572-791-7152), Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon, Reservations recommended weekends Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EASTSIDE CAFE
A generation ago, a lot of restaurants looked like this: comfy old houses with dark woodwork and a list of blackboard specials But the Eastside keeps things modern with dishes like a lunchtime Thai-tinged salad with grilled marinated chicken. Beer & wine. 2113 Manor Rd (512-476-5858). Open Mon-Thur 11:15-9:30, Fri 11:15-10, Sat 10-10, Sun 10-9:30. Cr. $$ (W+)
1886 CAFE AND BAKERY
(Update) Exciting new dishes from chef David Bull have given a new focus to the Driskill Hotel's casual caf,. Expect all-day entrees like nicely seasoned grilled yellowfin tuna (a bit rare for our liking, but we appreciated its shimmering beauty) atop ginger-cucumber slaw. Or try grilled chicken breast on romaine with a fabulous pesto Caesar dressing. Honey-truffle fried chicken is a decidedly upscale version of that classic. Leave room for one of new pastry chef Mark Chapman's desserts, like a fine peach topped tart with a moist, crumbly nut filling. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 116 W. 6th (512-391-7121). Open Sun-Thur 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 7-midnight. Cr. $$ (W+)
EL MESON TAQUERIA
This cheerful, out of the way spot is well worth a tussle with the dreaded 1-35/Ben White intersection. The friendly folks at the counter gave us plenty of time to decide among the eight or so authentic options: rich, nutty polio en pipian, cochinita pibil, garden fresh calabacitas, fajitas, barbacoa. Beer & margaritas. 5808 Burleson (512-415-0749). Open MOo 6:30-2:30, Tue-Thur 6:30-8, Fri & Sat 6:30-9:30, Sun 7-2. Cr. $ (W+)
FINN AND PORTER
Towering ceilings, lights suspended from wires, a wall of glass that frames the icy Frost tower: This steak and seafood house feels cosmopolitan. Alas, the service and the noise level need work, but the food--a perfectly cooked eight ounce filet in Madeira sauce and sweet butter-poached lobster--promises a force to be reckoned with Bar. Hilton Hotel, 500 E. 4th (512-493-4900). Dinner 7 days 5-11. Cr. $$$ (W+)
GREEN PASTURES
(Update) We always seem to be celebrating a special occasion when we go to this beautiful, expansive South Austin country house with high ceilings and a delightful front porch. On a recent visit, however, we weren't honoring Mother or toasting friends; we were simply enjoying a lovely summer evening, sipping a smooth red wine and eating luscious shrimp-stuffed veal and fantastic halibut topped with blue crab. Every night should be so special. Bar. 812 W. Live Oak Rd (512-444-4747). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2. Dinner 7 days 6-10. Brunch Bun 11-2 (prix fixe $28). Reservations recommended. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
An evening at Lifts twinkling Hill Country hideaway proves it's polite to share. We swapped bites of everything from smoky cascabel-and-espresso-rubbed elk backstrap to a duo of venison and lobster dressed in a rich guava sour cherry sauce. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369) Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 5-20, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W)
** JEFFREY'S
(Update) We think that Jeffrey's is the best place in town for a tete-a-tete in an intimate setting On top of that, you will dine well. Our handkerchief-thin ravioli encased a filling of exotic mushrooms in a lightly sweet broth--a welt crafted if slightly lack luster opener. An airy lobster custard scented with garlic played a supporting role to a tender lobster tail splashed with creamy blood-orange butter, while an imaginative surf and turf featured impeccably fresh (but slightly tough) shrimp paired with wonderful slow roasted, comfit-like duck A peppery arugula salad came alongside, as did at dente ratatouille. Presentations are always perfect here, and service strikes a just-right Austin balance between congenial and correct. Our one consistent quibble is that some seasonings, subtle and scant with the salt, flirt with blandness. More excitement, please. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon- Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30 Reservations recommended. Cr. S$$-$$$$ (Tasting menus $55-$65.) (W) With assistance.
JOHN MUELLER'S BAR-B-Q
When you spy a cinder-block building painted with the Texas flag, you're at the right place. Grab a cold one from the cast-iron bathtub, and get your plastic tray piled high with plump sausages, smoky pork ribs, and tender, peppery brisket. Beer. 1917 Manor Rd (512-236-0283). Open Mon-Fri 7-6:30, Sat 7-4. Closed Sun. No Cr. $ (W+)
SULLIVAN'S
We'd like to say the food is as good as ever at this warehouse district spot, but that's an iffy statement. True, a squeeze of lemon perked up our fried calamari, but the short ribs needed salt, the potatoes au gratin tasted bland, and our eight-ounce filet mignon proved to be the end cut. Bar. 800 Colorado (512-495-6504). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2 Dinner Mon-Fri 9:30-11, Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. Cr. $$$ (W+)
TEO'S
(Update) There's no better word than "heavenly" for the velvety Italian ice creams at the little spot formerly known as Babbo's. We especially like kiwi, chunky chocolate chip, tiramisu, and melon (like opening a ripe cantaloupe and sticking a spoon in). And the place makes you feel good, with its cheerful staff. A sense of humor prevails, which is lucky, since owner Matthew Lee had to rename the place ("Teo" 15 short for "Matteo," "Matthew" in Italian). Lawyers for Marie Batali--the orange-sneaker-wearing owner of New York's Babbo--objected. Molto Mario indeed. 26 Doors shopping center, 1206 W. 38th (512-451-9555). Open Sun 9-10, Mon-Thur 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri 7 a.m.-midnight, Sat 8 a.m.-midnight. AE, MC V. $ (W+)
THAI TARA
We spotted a local celebrity at the casually modern Thai cafe. But our brush with greatness didn't end there. From the tod mun (fried spiced fish patties) to a bowl of tom jeud (the Thai equivalent or chicken soup), the fare was delicious. Beer & wine. 601 W. 5th (512-236-0856). Open Mon-Thur 11-3 & 5-10, Fri & Sat noon-11, Sun noon-10. AE, MC, V. $$ (W+)
UCHI
(Update) Two striking and utterly imaginative sashimi creations from sushi chef Tyson Cole were our favorites on our last outing. The first was the Mustang--sweet freshwater eel, avocado, and yellow-tail all rolled up with a dusting of salty golden roe for a bit or crunch. But the hands down winner was the Maguro, thickly sliced, stacked tuna surrounded by seductive dabs of goat cheese with sprinkles of cracked pepper, a mound of microgreens, and dabs of pumpkin seed oil--a dish both seductive and virtuous, if that is possible. The red-wallpapered room continues to enchant. Beer, wine & sake. 801 5. Lamer (512-g16-4808). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC V. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
(Update) Around this town, the words "Vespaio" and "favorite restaurant" turn up frequently in the same sentence. This quintessential neighborhood place boasts a bustling bar scene, an open-kitchen conviviality, professional sorters for whom your happiness seems paramount, and Italian food that's soulful and consistently superb--raviolini stuffed with house-made perk sausage and Wagyu beef, prawns wrapped in prosciutto and grilled over oak, dreamy risottos, and a pizza (with arugula, prosciutto, and an egg on top that will make you cry). Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Sun 5:30-10, Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Mon. Cr. $&-$$$ (W+)
WINK
(Update) The little restaurant that could is still serving big flavors in that hidden corner off Lamar, and it hasn't slipped one bit. A warm soup of Boggy Creek Farm carrots made us giddy, while a divine, beautifully seared tombo tuna steak shimmered like rose quartz. Sauteed snapper served with a parsnip puree had a delicate salty crust; a roasted game hen with oyster mushrooms was earthy and tender. The menu changes daily, ensuring seasonal surprises. Beer & wine. 1014 N. Lamar (512-482-8868). Dinner Mon- Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
TUSCANY MARKET
Even if you don't live far north, you might want to trek to the Tuscany Market to sample its superior dell offerings, ready to go at lunch and dinner, or to eat at a scattering of tables inside the attractive, modern import and grocery store, individual pizzas are quick, or have a salad of wild rice, almonds, and dried cranberries. If you don't fancy rosemary-seasoned dolmas, order the mint or the jalapeno version instead. But the most fun is the wine tasting set-up, which lets you purchase an ounce of any of 32 wines to taste before you spring for a bottle (most samples are around $2). 12221 Riata Trace Pkwy (512-249-1500). Open Mon-Thur 6 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri 6:30-11, Sat 7-11, Sun 8-9. Cr. $-$$ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
ELENA'S
The dinner specialties at laid-hack Elena's are worthy indulgences. We opted for the polio rojo, tender chicken in a zesty red sauce served atop a bed of Spanish rice. Our Mexican food cravings unfulfilled, we also helped ourselves to homemade perk tamales. Bar. 6290 Phelan, Beaumont (409-861-2800) and 1865 College, Beaumont (409-832-1203). Phelan: Open Sun-Thur 8-9, Fri & Sat 8-10. Call for hours at other location. AE, DB, MC, V. $ (W+)
GREEN BEANERY CAFE
(Update) We applaud this upscale cafe for bringing variety to the lunch table. The options range from grilled pineapple-teriyaki chicken (sided by Texmati rice) and crawfish capellini (crawfish tails sauteed in a Creole-style cream sauce and served over angel hair pasta) to an Italian panino (capicollo and provolone on grilled bread) and chicken, broccoli, and mushroom crepes. For dessert, the choice is simple: caramel toffee cake. Beer & wine. 2121 McFaddin, Beaumont (409-833-5913). Lunch Tue-Fri 11-2, Sat 11:30-1:30. Dinner Tue-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$ (W+)
POBLANO GRILL
At this comfortable Tax-Max spot, we dined in upscale style without paying upscale prices. From a starter of roasted poblano soup to our entree, the signature puerto guisado (pork tenderloin cubes in a spicy tomatillo sauce), all we could think was "This is too good to be true." Bar. 3350 Dowlen Rd, Beaumont (409-860-0055). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 10:30-10. Cr. $$ (W+)
RAO'S BAKERY
On a recent visit, trendy Rao's was hopping with late-nighters in need of a sugar and caffeine fix. Our sweet tooth demanded a slice of decedent strawberry cheesecake and a cup of creamy peach gelato, one of Rao's more than 20 made-from-scratch flavors. 4440 Dowlen Road, Beaumont (409-347-3400) and 2596 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-832-4342). Dowlen: Open Mon-Thur 6-9:30, Fri & Sat 6-11:30, Sun 7-8. Call for hours at other location. AE, MC, V. $ (W)
THE TEA ROOM
We stumbled into a veritable garden party at this flower-bedecked spot. The lunch special includes a choice of half a sandwich or quiche, plus a cup or soup and a green salad. We went with the creamy tomato-basil and the chicken-salad (with crushed pineapple and toasted almonds). 6465 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-861-1900). Lunch Tue-Sat 11-2. Closed Sun & Mon. No Cr. $$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
GOLDEN CROISSANT
The catch of the day at this port city bakery just happens to be freshly baked French baguettes. If you're fishing for sweets, eclairs and cream puffs will do. And the croissants are indeed golden and crisp. Hot lunches, including pecan crusted salmon and lemongrass chicken, are now making appearances on the recently expanded menu. 2904 Hwy 365, Nederland (409-727-5399). Open Mon-Fri 5-6, Sat 6-4. Closed Sun. AE, MC V. $ (W)
Corpus Christi
B&J'S PIZZA
(Update) After one pie at B&J's, you'll be replacing that chain pizzeria number on your speed dial. While we like the Polynesian--ham, mushrooms, and pineapple--our hands-down favorite is the B&J's Original (pepperoni, Italian sausage, fresh mushrooms, and green pepper on a crispy crust). Once you...
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