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Article Excerpt
Pat's Pick: The Sandbar
Seldom has the buzz been so great for something so small. After months of anticipation, the Sandbar has finally opened in downtown San Antonio. Does the minuscule urban fish house live up to the hype? Decidedly. Scrunch around one of the seven paper-topped tables and order a sumptuous bowl of lobster bisque (above) or an ocean-breeze-fresh crab salad--pure jumbo lumps moistened with homemade remoulade (its kick comes from a shot of sriracha sauce) perched crisp romaine. Or grab a seat at the counter for a plate of bigeye tuna sashimi garnished with sauce. Who's floating this boat? Chef Andrew Weissman and his wife, Maureen, the same folks restaurant Le Reve, next door. They say they love the Sandbar's informality and that they can get customers in and out in less than an hour. Small is good (See review, page 247. For a recipe, go to texasmonthly.com)
The Dining Guide
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Dining Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a TEXAS MONTHLY restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY Dining Guide, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
ASTI
Update One of the nicest meals yet at this neighborhood trattoria started with heirloom tomatoes and slabs of mozzarella. The daily pizza special focused on San Daniele prosciutto, prized for its creamy texture and salty-sweet flavor. But the highlight was pink duck breast in an irresistible fig mostarda-a condiment with a subtle nip--sided by lovely soft white polenta. Dessert, an affogato, was fun: vanilla gelato doused with a shot of espresso and surrounded by homemade cookies (including mini-macaroons). Beer & wine. (512-451-1218). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
BISTRO 88
We'd forgotten just how good Bistro 88 is. Maybe because it's tucked away in a nondescript strip center. Or because it doesn't get the media play that "hot" restaurants do. But we're still dreaming of the moist miso-glazed sea bass. Bar. 2722 Bee Caves Rd (512-328-8888). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2, Sun 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10, Sun 5:30-9. Cr. $$$ (W+)
CASA DE LUZ
Healthy food reigns supreme at this spacious, light-filled house of organic vegan cooking (although we swear we overheard one patron talking about junk food--the very idea). Some offerings, like a carrot-apricot soup with tofu creme fraiche, leaned toward the bland, while others, like sauteed zucchini, were quite tasty. 1701 Toomey Rd (512-475-2535). Breakfast Mon-Fri 7-9. Lunch 7 days 11:30-2. Dinner 7 days 6-8:30. Sat & 5un brunch 11:30-2. MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
Little things raise the excellent to the extraordinary at this elegant place: a delicious amuse-bouche of celery ' soup; a Patron tequila granita accompanying succulent grilled Bandera quail (with a sprinkle of micro-cilantro atop). Charred beef tenderloin matched brilliantly with black-truffle potato purse, and a pan-seared blue-nose bass with cheese tortellini proved that chef David Bull is as edgy as ever. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EL MESON TAQUERIA
Lucky us. We placed our order at the counter just as a line was forming out the door. No wonder this no-nonsense place does a good business; the food here is autentico. Indecisive for only a moment (barbacoa or cochinita pibil?), we opted for tacos: The creamy pollo en pipian is a fave. Beer & margaritas. 5808 Burleson Rd (512-415-0749). Open 5un-Thur 5:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Fri & Sat 6:30-3 & 5:30-9:00. Cr. $
GUERO'S TACO BAR
This South Congress stronghold is always abuzz--and packed. Contrary to popular opinion, we think familiarity breeds content. Our companion devoured El Presidente, a sampler plate, which features a chicken taco, a beef taco, a tamale, and a generous helping of guacamole. The rest of the table enjoyed the shrimp fajitas, with grilled tomatillos and mushrooms, but made one request: bigger crustaceans, please! Bar. 1412 5. Congress Ave (512-447-7588). Open Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat & Sun 8 a.m.-11 p.m. Cr. $$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Dithering over 17 starters and 13 entrees at this embodiment of Hill Country ease and sophistication, we forced ourselves to skip favorites and instead did due diligence to a cannelloni-like appetizer of herb-crusted eggplant slices in a smoky tomato sauce and a rood surf and turf with alternating slices of diver scallop and tender duck breast. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620 northbound, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-255-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
Daring innovation melds with a classic repertoire to create something for everyone here. An unlikely appetizer of peach-and-goat-cheese ravioli was a harmonious delight. And though an entree that incorporated rosy slices of duck breast, shrimp, grapes, pineapple, and torchio pasta in a red curry broth seemed to one of us a dish in search of an identity, another pronounced it a success. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended, dr. $$$-$$$$ (tasting menus $79). (W+)
MADAM MAM'S
This family-run Thai spot is a UT campus favorite for good reason. The surroundings are pleasant, the service is solicitous, and the food is remarkably good for the price. Spring rolls came stuffed with huge pink shrimp and fresh mint, and the pla jian (in this case a whole pound of tilapia) came bathed in a complex sweet-and-sour tamarind sauce. 2514 Guadalupe at Dean Keeton (512-472-8305). Open 7 days 11-9:30. AE, DS, MC V. $ (W+)
7
Once you get used to the arcane system of ordering by weight (of your entree, not yourself), dining at 7 is actually quite simple. We bucked the trend and ordered a filet mignon (the only meat on the seafaring menu) and found it quite to our liking. Same with the white-fleshed ivory salmon, except for its being unevenly cooked. Bar. 1716 5. Congress Ave (512-383-8877). Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-9, Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Cr. $$$ (W+)
UCHI
Update We made straight for the bustling bar lined with beautiful fish on one side and beautiful people on the other, all the while being serenaded by "The Girl From Ipanema" on the sound system. But Tyson Cole wasn't named a Food & Wine best new chef this year for the ambience of his restaurant. We're betting it was for his bluefin sashimi--cubes of ruby-red tuna and yellow watermelon dusted with golden tobiko. Not to mention the likes of suzuki subarashi: crispy-skinned sea bass bathed in a warm, brothy cherry-tomato nimono. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S. Lamar (512-915-4808). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. AE, DC, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
Suppressing your "ooh/aah" instinct is a challenge at this convivial Italian spot. We fared well with our entree--velvety day-boat scallops wrapped in panseared prosciutto over creamy risotto--but only because we were too busy eating to get an ooh in edgewise. Bar. 1510 S. Congress Ave (512-441-5100). Dinner Tue-Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Reservations taken Tue-Thur & Sun until 6:30. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
FINO
The buzz surrounding the new restaurant in the old Granite Cafe location has been considerable. Guess what? It lives up to the hype. The owners of Asti have created a relaxed and stylish venue and a menu that spans the Mediterranean from Spain (Basque olives with a distinctive "cure" and tender cubed pork pinchitos sprinkled with sea salt) to France (lemony pot de creme) to the Middle East (a great appetizer platter with hummus, baba ganouj, and tzatziki sauce). Numerous small plates encourage sharing, and a table on the patio is perfect for sipping a glass of fino, the dry sherry for which the restaurant is named. Bar. 2905 San Gabriel (512-474-2905). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Dinner reservations recommended. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
OAXACAN TAMALEO
Thank goodness Leonor Banos-Stoute opened up this quaint bare-bones tamale house inside the La Chica Food Store on Anderson Lane. Otherwise, we'd be missing out on some darn good interior Mexican food. Banos-Stoute is famous (locally, anyway) for her tamales--the kind wrapped up in banana leaves, mind you. She offers chicken in red mole, pork in green salsa, and black bean and cheese. Our companion was wowed by the special of the day: turkey in red mole--deliciously tender meat in a rich, assertive sauce. 1300 W. Anderson Ln (512-289-9252). Open Mon-Sat 8-8, Sun 9-3. No Cr.$ (W)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
BAYTOWN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT
Baytown's unimpressive facade had us crossing our fingers as we walked inside. Luckily, what we found was a spacious and busy dining area, thankfully lacking the usual "aroma" of your typical family fish joint. We munched on cornmeal-battered boudin balls and a heap of fried catfish served with crispy fries. Beer & wine. 3825 College, Beaumont (409-832-4999). Open Mon-Thur 10-9:30, Fri & Sat 10-10, Sun 10-8:30. AE, DS, MC, V.$$ (W)
EASYS TAPAS AND MARTINIS
Finally. A tapas bar in Beaumont. After a creamy cup of sopa de aguacate (hot avocado soup garnished with cilantro and sour cream), we made quick work of the berenjenas a la plancha (grilled eggplant, with kalamata olives, capers, and manchego cheese on a bed of baby greens). Bar. 2325 Calder, Beaumont (409-832-2600). Open Tue-Thur 11-2 & 5-10, Fri 11-2 & 5-midnight, Sat 5-midnight. Brunch first and third Sun 10-2. Closed Mon. AE, MC, V. $$ (W)
TOKYO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE & SUSHI BAR
Grab a seat around the tabletop grill, where personable chefs and a helpful staff will guide you through the options. We got things going with a house favorite, the crunch roll (a tempura-battered combination of shrimp and marinated crabmeat topped with eel sauce). Savory tenderloin and succulent Gulf shrimp, prepared hibachi-style, were also winners. Beer & wine. 4438 Dowlen, Beaumont (409-895-2400). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Sun noon-3. Dinner Mon-Thur 4:30-10, Fri & Sat 4:30-10:30, Sun 5-9. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
ASSAGGIO
A layered tower of breaded veal, eggplant, melted mozzarella, and sauteed mushrooms in Marsala sauce hit all the right notes at this Hawaiian-Italian restaurant with its tiki torches and white tablecloths. Less successful was the overpowering, almost bitter pork chop oreganato with asparagus. Beer & wine. 4550 Corona Dr (351-808-8881). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:15. Dinner 5un-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W)
B&J'S PIZZA
Update A must for beer aficionados (more than a hundred domestic and imported brews), this place is renowned for dishing up the best hand-tossed pizzas in the city. Our choice, the B&J Original, offered pepperoni, Italian sausage, green pepper, mushroom, and mozzarella all atop a light, crisp crust gilded with perfectly seasoned tomato sauce. The decor is minimal (beer signs and glass-fronted beverage coolers). Beer & wine. 6335 S. Padre Island Dr (351-992-6671). Open Mon-Sat 11-10:30, Sun noon-10. Cr. $$ (W)
BEAMER'S
Update This casual burger-pizza-salad joint now occupies a larger location, but miss the clever, beach-inspired atmosphere of the old digs. As for the fare, the youngsters in our group liked the thick shakes, hearty burgers, and curly fries, but a bland chicken Caesar salad disappointed the adults. Far more rewarding was watching the championship-winning San Antonio Spurs on the big-screen TV near the bar. Bar. 5922 5. Staples (361-992-1291). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W)
TAQUERIA ACAPULCO
Update The renovated dining room is larger, but the staff and the parking don't seem to have kept pace. Nonetheless, once we were finally seated, we found the food as satisfying and filling as ever. Among the evening's Tex-Mex highlights were the cheesy enchiladas in a rich chile sauce, the chalupas, and the aguacate gorditas (avocado, refried beans, and pico de gallo stuffed into a thick corn tortilla, pita-style). Beer & margaritas. 5937 McArdle Rd (361-906-2720). Open 7 days 6 a.m.-11 p.m. Cr. $ (W)
UTOPIA WORLD CUISINE AND LOUNGE
This modern restaurant-bar with sleek lines brings a welcome whiff of sophistication to south-side suburbia. A recent lunch began with a crunchy shrimp sushi roll in ginger sauce. The Jamaican jerk chicken sandwich--bird, citrus salsa, and melted cheddar--adroitly balanced spicy and sweet. Bar. 5638 Saratoga Blvd (351-993-2600). Open Mon-Sat 11-11, Sun 10-11. Cr. $$$ (W)
VIETNAM
Update A pair of thick spring rolls, plump with shrimp, cilantro, and vermicelli, was a perfect start to our lunch at this elegant downtown restaurant. Next up was a creamy rice-and-chicken soup, followed by spicy chicken curry with slices of carrot, zucchini, onion, and red pepper and a helping of jasmine rice. Bar. 701 N. Water (351-853-2582). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun. Cr. $$-$$$ (W)
Dallas
* ABACUS
Update Translucent ruby rounds of buffalo carpaccio with yellow tomato, sweet toasted brioche, and shaved truffle cheese were an auspicious first act. The jumbo lump crab-avocado cake with yellow-tomato butter and chive oil, along with the fabulous onion bread, made a perfect light entree. Abacus's version of "icebox" pie is dressed up with Valrhona chocolate and little warm butterscotch bananas the size of your pinkie. Bar. 4511 McKinney Ave (214-559-3111). Dinner Mon- Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
ALFREDO'S
Alfredo's has returned to the scene, back in its original funky home on Henderson. It's a cut above most pasta and pizza parlors, offering specialties like lemony veal piccata with capers and mushrooms (which was as tender and tasty as it gets). Beer & wine. 1924 N. Henderson Ave (214-823-5050). Open Mon-Fri 10:30-2:30 & 4:30-10:30, Sat 11-11, Sun 11-9:30. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W)
ALI BABA
Update The gold standard for affordable Middle Eastern food in Dallas, Ali Baba is always...
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