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Article Excerpt
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Dining Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a TEXAS MONTHLY restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY Dining Guide, Box 1569, Austin. Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designate an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr. All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted/
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelehair.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
CASA DE LUZ
(Update) Incredibly, we overheard one customer say, "Junk food strengthens your immune system." Have more blasphemous words ever been spoken in this spacious, light-filled house of macrobiotic cooking? We think that healthy food--like Casa de Luz's set menu of organic vegan dishes, including a soup, a grain, a bean, a vegetable, and a salad--bolsters your immunity. Some offerings, like a carrot-apricot soup with tofu creme fraiche, leaned toward the bland, while others, like sauteed zucchini and a multi-bean hummus, were quite tasty. 1701 Toomey Rd (522-476-2535). Breakfast Mon-Fri 7-9. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner 7 days 6-8:30. Sat & Sun brunch 11:30-2. MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
DONA EMILIA'S
On a crisp, blue-sky day we got comfortable on the tree-shaded patio of this South American restaurant. Arepas con queso (grilled cornmeal patties stuffed with mozzarella) were rather bland, but things got jazzy when our entree arrived: Pabellon criollo (seasoned shredded beef) packed a not-too-spicy punch. Bar. 101 San Jacinto Blvd (512-478-2520). Open Mon-Thur 11-2:30 & 5-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-6. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
Little things raise the excellent to the extraordinary at this elegant place: a delicious amuse-bouche of celery soup; a Patron tequila granita accompanying succulent grilled Bandera quail (with a sprinkle of micro-cilantro atop). Charred beef tenderloin matched brilliantly with black-truffle potato puree, and a pan-seared blue-nose bass with cheese tortellini proved that chef David Bull is as edgy as ever. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EL MESON TAQUERIA
(Update) Lucky us. We placed our order at the counter just as a line was forming out the door. No wonder this no-nonsense place does a good business; the food here is autentico. Indecisive for only a moment (barbacoa or cochinita pibil?), we opted for tacos: The flavorful pastor and the creamy polio en pipian were our faves. The carved wood tables and colorful art suited both the college kids and the business executives. Beer & margaritas. 5808 Burleson Rd (512-416-0749). Open Sun-Thur 6:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Fri & Sat 6:30-3 & 5:30-9:30. Cr. $
FONDA SAN MIGUEL
Charmed again. Whether we're lounging in the airy courtyard, sipping good, strong margaritas, or mining the contents of the chile relleno de picadillo (as we did on a recent visit, extracting every bite of the savory shredded pork), this hacienda leaves us in a blissful state every time. Bar. 2330 W. North Loop (512-459-4121). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Sun brunch 11-2. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
(Update) Dithering over 17 starters and 13 entrees at this embodiment of Hill Country ease and sophistication, we forced ourselves to skip favorites like hot-and-crunchy trout and instead did due diligence to a cannelloni-like appetizer of herb-crusted eggplant slices (wrapped around ricotta and lavished with a spicy-smoky tomato sauce) and a mud surf and turf with alternating slices of diver scallop and tender duck breast (in an accomplished blackberry-chipotle demi-glace). Every bite was delectable, but on balance we prefer our scallops whole. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620 northbound, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-255-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 5-9, Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W)
** JEFFREY'S
At our last meal at this intimate storefront, we chose two of the most traditional items--beef tenderloin and grilled king salmon--but they were anything but ho-hum. A pitch-perfect mustard-peppercorn sauce mellowed the beef; mango-mint salsa gave a snappy edge to the salmon. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (tasting menus $55). (W) With assistance.
MADAM MAM'S
(Update) This family-run Thai spot is a UT campus favorite for good reason. The surroundings are pleasant, if utilitarian; the service is solicitous; and the food is remarkably fresh and good for the price. Spring rolls came stuffed with huge pink shrimp and fresh mint, and the pla jian (in this case a whole pound of tilapia) came bathed in a complex sweet-and-sour tamarind sauce and topped with shredded ginger, jalapenos, and green onions. 2514 Guadalupe at Dean Keeton (512-472-8306). Open 7 days 11-9:30. AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W+)
MALAGA
The aesthetic appeal of this handsome tapas bar--low light, honey-hued brick, and dark-wood floors--sometimes trumps the food. But you can make a happy pairing with a selection from the healthy wine list and a cheese plate: nutty Manchego and tangy Mahon alongside chorizo, green apple, and grapes. Bar. 208 W. 4th (512-236-8020). Dinner Mon-Wed 5-10, Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. Closed Sun. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
MANSION AT JUDGES' HILL
Dining amid chandeliers and oil paintings, we found the food to be just as we'd expected: refined and exceedingly well prepared. A pan-seared beef filet was tender, with a perfect crust, while plump gnocchi in a white wine-basil pesto shared space with sweet shrimp and ethereal scallops. Bar. 1900 Rio Grande (512-495-1800). Breakfast Mon-Fri 5:30-10, Sat & Sun 7-11. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner 7 days 5:30-10, Sun brunch 11-2. AE, DS, MC, V. $$$ (W+)
MIRABELLE
With its vivid colors, wood floors, and handcrafted decorative platters on the walls, Mirabelle feels like home to loyalists. Our favorite dish was perfectly seared halibut atop a buttery chive-and-asparagus purse surrounded by a rich but sprightly lemongrass cream nage--lovely. Beer & wine. 8127 Mesa Dr (512-346-7900). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
MR. NATURAL
Our friend from out of state was excited about our plans to eat lunch at this so-Austin spot, where folks enjoy Tex-Mex vegetarian offerings. Unfortunate]y, her cheese-and-jalapeno tamale was dry, but fabulous cheese enchiladas redeemed the meal. 2414 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-9223). Open Mon-Sat 9-9. Closed Sun. Call for other location. Cr. $ (W)
RUBY'S BBQ
Funky and colorful, this stalwart barbecue joint is friend to many an Austinite. The meat is good, particularly the lean, all-natural, thinly sliced brisket; the sauce is appropriately tangy; and the sides--like chunky mayonnaise potato salad and creamy slaw with poppy seeds--show creativity and range. Beer & wine. 512 W. 29th (512-477-1651). Open 7 days 11-midnight. MC, V. $-$$ (W)
UCHI
"Splendid" is the only word to describe our appetizer of a single seared scallop atop a sweet pumpkin purse with salty morsels of shiitake. As for the gloriously fatty king salmon cured in ginger miso and grilled over oak charcoal--oh my, oh my. The flamboyant red room buzzes. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
Pristine ingredients are the building blocks for the consistently top-notch food here; the pork-and-pecorino-stuffed ravioli was a multitextured marvel, bathed in a decadent mostarda reduction and topped with crispy fried leeks. Bar. 1610 5. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Tue-Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Reservations taken Tue-Thur & Sun until 6:30. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
AVENUE B GROCERY AND MARKET
Hardly new, but definitely small and offbeat, the Avenue B Grocery has been serving handmade sandwiches wrapped in white paper to Hyde Park residents for years. You walk to the back of the tiny wood frame building to order from a choice of Boar's Head and other quality meats, cheeses, and breads (the Queen Bee vegetarian is famous). Eat outside at a weathered picnic table under pecan trees that are older than the 99-year-old grocery store itself. Beer. 4403 Avenue B (512-453-3921). Open Mon-Fri 8 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat 10-6. Closed Sun. On vacation until June 21. Cr. $
SHERLOCK'S BAKER ST. PUB AND GRILL
It's hard to figure what's British about this new Houston-based franchise. The patio view of Hwy 183? Bouncers checking IDs at the door? A tempura shrimp sandwich with habanero-papaya sauce? You'll have to search for the shepherd's pie among the blue-cheese burgers and Baja tacos. But nationality be damned--the grub's pretty tasty. Fried cheese sticks were spicy and piping hot, while beer-battered Icelandic cod and french fries made a perfectly respectable fish and chips. Bar. Furniture Row shopping center, 9012 Research Blvd (512-380-9443). Open 7 days 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Cr. $$ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
FRANKIE'S ITALIAN GRILL
Frankie Barezi is an all-in-one kind of owner. Part chef, part cashier, the half-Italian, half-Albanian multitasker serves up Italian favorites such as lasagne and plump cannelloni, rich with cheese and chunky tomato sauce. Frankie's is also the place for thin-crust-only, made-the-way-you-like-it pizza. Beer & wine. 105 I-10N, Beaumont (409-835-9200). Open 7 days 11-10. AE, MC, V. $$ (W)
GOLDEN CROISSANT
The Golden Croissant's flaky French crescents have found quite the niche in the boudin-loving town of Nederland. Loyalists show up for the likes of fruit-filled pastries and rich walnut cheesecake cookies (a house favorite). The lunch menu at this no-frills bakery branches out to include Asian specialties, such as pho, and a variety of sandwiches. 2904 Texas Hwy 365, Nederland (409-727-5399). Open Mon-Fri 6-6, Sat 6-4. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W)
LA SUPREMA
For three generations the Martinez family has been serving unfussy Tex-Mex in a sunny, festive atmosphere. The faithful flock here to indulge in creamy queso, fat chimichangas (filled with your choice of meat, rice, or refried beans), and classic ground-beef tacos. Beer & margaritas. 3106 Texas Hwy 365, Nederland (409-722-2880). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-3. Cr. $ (W)
Small, New, or Offbeat
BAYTOWN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT
Baytown's unimpressive facade had us crossing our fingers as we walked inside. Luckily, what we found was a spacious and busy dining area, thankfully lacking the usual "aroma" of your typical family fish joint. We munched on cornmeal-battered boudin balls and a heaping pile of fried catfish, served with crispy fries. Beer & wine. 3825 College, Beaumont (409-832-4999). Open Mon-Thur 10-9:30, Fri & Sat 10-10, Sun 10-8:30. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W)
EASYS TAPAS AND MARTINIS
Finally. A tapas bar in Beaumont. In a charming cottage complete with outdoor garden seating, no less. After a creamy cup of sopa de aguacate (hot avocado soup garnished with cilantro and sour cream), we made quick work of the berenjenas a la plancha (grilled eggplant, with kalamata olives, capers, and manchego cheese on a bed of baby greens). For something simpler, go for the ultimate grilled cheese: an oozefest of mozzarella, basil, and Roma tomatoes on grilled sourdough. Bar. 2325 Calder, Beaumont (409-832-2600). Open Tue-Thur 10-2 & 5-10, Fri 10-2 & 5-midnight, Sat 5-midnight. Closed Sun & Mon. AE, MC, V. $$ (W)
Corpus Christi
BERNARD'S
Breakfast--everything from croissants to omelets--is served at this sleek glass-and-metal spot that caters to the downtown business crowd. But we like to do lunch. Our Reuben--corned beef, tangy sauerkraut, Russian dressing, and melted Swiss on dark pumpernickel--arrived steaming hot and tasted just right. 500 N. Water (361-883-5700). Open Mon-Fri 8:30-5:30. Closed Sat & Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W)
SILVERADO SMOKEHOUSE
Dried-flower wreaths adorn the walls of this otherwise no-frills establishment. On a recent evening, tender brisket, sliced smoked turkey, and sausage were the top picks, as were a few of the nontraditional items such as fried corn fritters and fruit salad. No lie: A companion's beef rib overhung his plate. Beer & wine. 4522 Weber Rd (361-855-6464). Open 7 days 11-9. AE, DS, MC, V. $-$$ (W)
SMALL PLANET DELICATESSEN
The elaborate desserts are a major distraction at this delightfully arty dell, but we made ourselves order something a bit more nutritious: a chicken chipotle wrap and a steaming cup of creamy curry soup with wild rice and corn. For a sweet ending, try a slice of rich Key lime pie. Beer & wine. 3812 S. Alameda (361-855-1892). Open Mon-Wed & Fri 9:30-6, Thur 9:30-8, Sat 9:30-5. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W)
SNOOPY'S PIER
This laid-back waterfront restaurant--one of our favorite summertime haunts--is a hit with locals and tourists alike. We can't resist the fried shrimp, but the catch of the day--fried mahimahi--was just as good. You won't want to miss the delicious oniony coleslaw with poppy seed dressing. Beer & wine. 13313 Park Rd 22 (361-949-8815). Open 7 days 11-10. Cash only. $-$$ (W)
THAI COTTAGE
Terra-cotta-colored walls and hardwood floors lend a tranquil feeling to this cozy space. We love the soft spring rolls, stuffed with shrimp, cilantro, and noodles and served with a thick peanut sauce, but the best bet is the yellow curry, a sweet and peppery blend of creamy curry, potatoes, and carrots. Beer & wine. 5830 McArdle Rd at Airline (361-993-0777). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat. 5-9:30. Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W)
UTOPIA WORLD CUISINE
(Update) This modern restaurant-bar with sleek lines brings a welcome whiff of sophistication to south side suburbia. A recent lunch began with fried calamari and a crunchy shrimp sushi roll in ginger sauce. The Jamaican jerk chicken sandwich--bird, citrus salsa, and melted cheddar--adroitly balanced spicy and sweet. The grilled ahi...
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