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Article Excerpt
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Dining Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a TEXAS MONTHLY restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY Dining Guide, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area emd restvooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs. No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
DONA EMILIAS
(Update) Oddly enough, on a crisp, blue sky day we had to ask to be seated on the tree-shaded patio of this South American restaurant Arepas con queso (grilled cornmeal patties stuffed with mozzarella) were rather bland, but things got jazzy when our entrees arrived: Chuleta de cerdo a la parrilla (a pork chop with a guava demi-glace) proved both delicious and filling, and the pabellon criollo (seasoned shredded beef) packed a tasty but not spicy punch. The mushy fried sweet plantains were not quite Lip to snuff. Bar. 101 San Jacinto Blvd (512-478-2520). Open Mon-Thur 11-2:30 & 5-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-6. AE, DE, MC V. 55-$$-$$$ (W+)
** DRISKILL GRILL
(Update) Little things raise the excellent to the extraordinary at this elegant place--a delicious amuse-bouche of celery soup; a Patron tequila granita accompanying succuient grilled Bandera quail (with a sprinkle of micro-cilantro atop). Reading glasses were even whipped out for our companion if] denial. Charred beef tenderloin matched brilliantly with black-truffle potato purge, and a pan seared bluenose bass with cheese tortellini proved that chef David Bull is as edgy as ever. We wished only that the flavors of the artful hearts of palm salad with crab, osetra caviar, and champagne aioli had really popped Bar. Driskill Hotel, 504 Brazes (512-391 7152). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Men. Reservations recommended weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
FONDA SAN MIGUEL
(Update) Charmed again. Whether we're lounging in the airy courtyard, sipping good, strong margaritas or mining the contents of the chile relleno de picadillo (as we did on a recent visit, extracting every bite of the savory shredded pork studded with raisins and bits of sweet pineapple; we like to save the spicy poblano for last], this badenda leaves us in a blissful state every time. Given our condition, the crepas de cajeta (with cajeta ice cream!) almost made us swoon. Bar. 2330 W. North Loop (512-459-4121). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Sun brunch 11-2. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
** JEFFREY'S
At our last meal at this intimate storefront, we chose two of the most traditional items--beef tenderloin and grilled king salmon--but they were anything but he hum. A pitch perfect mustard-peppercorn sauce mellowed the beef; mango-mint salsa gave a snappy edge to the salmon. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5-9:30. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (tasting menus $55). (W) With assistance.
MALAGA
(Update) The aesthetic appeal of this handsome tapas bar--low light, honey-hued brick, and dark-wood floors, all steeped in the festive buzz of the surrounding Warehouse District--sometimes trumps the food. But you can make a happy pairing with a selection from the healthy wine list and a cheese plate: nutty Manchego and tangy Mahon alongside chorizo, green apple, and grapes. Or try the gambas al ajillo--tender shrimp sauteed in garlic and olive oil and served with aioli and fried plantain chips. Bar. 208 W. 4th (512-235-8020). Dinner Mon-Wed 5-10, Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. Closed Sun. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
MANSION AT JUDGES' HILL
Dining amid chandeliers and oil paintings, we found the food to be just as we'd expected: refined and exceedingly well prepared. A pan-seared beef filet was tender, with a perfect crust, while plump gnocchi in a white wine-basil pesto shared space with sweet shrimp and ethereal scallops. Bar. 1900 Rio Grande (512-495-1800). Breakfast Mon-Fri 5:30-10, Sat & Sun 7-21. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner 7 days 5:30-10. Sun brunch 11-2. AE, DS, MC, V. $$$ (W+)
MIRABELLE
(Update) With its vivid colors, wood floors, and handcrafted decorative platters on the walls, Mirabelle feels like home to loyalists. Our favorite dish was perfectly seared halibut atop a buttery chive-and-asparagus puree surrounded by a rich but sprightly lemongrass cream nage--lovely. Next best was a moist-enough rotisserie-cooked duck breast and leg with excellent, creamy scalloped potatoes. We could have skipped, however, the odd-tasting Parmesan-and-greens-filled cannelloni. Beer & wine. 8127 Mesa Dr (512-346-7900). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
MR. NATURAL
Our friend from out of state was excited about our plans to eat lunch at this so-Austin spot, where folks enjoy Tex-Mex vegetarian offerings. Unfortunately, her cheese-and-jalapeno tamale was dry, but fabulous cheese enchiladas redeemed the meal. 2414 5. Lamar Bird (512-915-9223). Open Mon-Sat 9-9. Closed Sun. Call for other location. Cr. $ (W)
RUBY'S BBQ
(Update) Funky and colorful, this stalwart barbecue joint is friend to many an Austinite (and even a few wannabes, who get their Ruby's fix via FedEx). The meat is good, particularly the lean, all-natural, thinly sliced brisket; the sauce is appropriately tangy; and the sides--like chunky mayonnaise potato salad and creamy slaw with poppy seeds--show creativity and range. Beer & wine. 512 W. 29th (512-477-1651). Open 7 days 11-midnight. MC, V. $-$$ (W)
UCHI
(Update) "Splendid" is the only word to describe our appetizer of a single seared scallop, crisply caramelized without and silky soft within, atop a sweet pumpkin puree with salty morsels of shiitake--a study in bright flavors and textures. As for the gloriously fatty king salmon cured in ginger miso and grilled over oak charcoal--oh my, oh my. Every dish sparkled, and the room--with its flamboyant red wallpaper and cool taupe accents--buzzed. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 5. Lamar (512-916-4808). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
Pristine ingredients are the building blocks for the consistently top-notch food here; the pork-and-pecorino-stuffed ravioli was a multitextured marvel, bathed in a decadent mostarda reduction and topped with crispy fried leeks. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6600). Dinner Tue-Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Reservations taken Tue-Thur & Sun until 6:30. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
WINK
The addition of a cozy new bar gives us one more reason to visit our favorite upscale hole-in-the-wall. Snack on olives or pate before heading next door to the restaurant to sample from the always-creative menu--perhaps a New York strip topped with a confetti-like nest of crispy collard green slivers. Beer & wine. 1014 N. Lamar (512-482-8868). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
Z'TEJAS
Summer is the perfect time to sit on the big, breezy, covered balcony, with its view of leafy trees. The kitchen produces reliable, robust Southwestern and other eclectic fare, from the flavorful pesto-slicked grilled shrimp on guacamole-dabbed tostadas to the Santa Fe chicken enchiladas. Bar. 9400 Arboretum Blvd (512-346-3506). Open Sun 10-10, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 10-11. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
BRAD'S PLACE
Hippie and quirky, Brad's draws us in with family-size portions. A dry-erase-board menu hangs from the ceiling, and the entrees change daily. On our visit, penne tossed with andouille and a Cajun cream sauce tested out fine, as did a thick-cut hamburger with Brad's "chips" (crisp, thin-sliced potatoes). BYOB. 2306 Hazel, Beaumont (409-839-8100). Open Mon-Sat 11-2 & 5-9. Closed Sun. AE, D5, ME, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
GOLDEN CROISSANT
(Update) The Golden Croissant's flaky French crescents have found quite the niche in the boudin-loving town of Nederland. Loyalists show up for the likes of fruit-filled pastries and rich walnut cheesecake cookies (a house favorite). The lunch menu at this no-frills bakery branches out to Asian specialties, such as pho, and a variety of sandwiches. 2904 Texas Hwy 365, Nederland (409-727-5399). Open Mon-Fri 6-6, Sat 7-4. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W)
LA SUPREMA
(Update) For three generations the Martinez family has been serving unfussy Tex-Mex to folks in Beaumont and Nederland in a sunny, festive atmosphere. The faithful flock here to indulge in creamy queso, fat chimichangas (filled with your choice of meat, rice, or refried beans), and classic ground-beef tacos. Beer & margaritas. 3106 Texas Hwy 355, Nederland (409-722-2880). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-3. Cr. $ (W)
THREE AMIGOS
The pride that the Hernandez-Loza family takes in the food and presentation here shows in everything from the great-for-dipping guacamole to the satisfying caldo de res--beef soup loaded with potato, cabbage, carrots, and zucchini. Also up to par is the pechuga al ajillo, tender chicken smothered in grilled onions and bell pepper and topped with white cheese. Bar. 3035 College, Beaumont (409-838-3770). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri-Sun 11-10. Cr. $$ (W)
Small, New, or Offbeat
FRANKIE'S ITALIAN GRILL
Frankie Barezi is an all-in-one kind of owner. Part chef, part cashier, the half-Italian, half-Albanian Frankie serves up classic Italian favorites such as lasagne and plump cannelloni, rich with cheese and chunky tomato sauce. Frankie's is also the place for thin-crust-only, made-the-way-you-like-it pizza. Beer & wine. 105 I-10N, Beaumont (409-835-9200). Open 7 days 11-10. AE, MC V. $$ (W)
Corpus Christi
BERNARD'S
Breakfast--everything from croissants to omelets--is served at this sleek glass-and-metal spot that caters to the downtown business crowd. But we like to do lunch. Our Reuben--corned beef, tangy sauerkraut, Russian dressing, and melted Swiss on dark pumpernickel--arrived steaming hot and tasted just right. 500 Water (351-883-5700). Open Mon-Fri 8:30-5:30. Closed Sat & Sun. AE, D5, ME, V. $ (W)
KATZ 21 STEAK AND SPIRITS
This plush, high-ceilinged steakhouse now offers lunch. We loved the creamy shrimp bisque, and basil mayonnaise added a nice touch to a chicken Waldorf salad. Bar. 317 N. Mesquite (351-884-1815). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Mon- Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$-$$$ (W)
SILVERADO SMOKEHOUSE
Dried-flower wreaths adorn the walls of this otherwise no-frills establishment. On a recent evening, tender brisket, sliced smoked turkey, and sausage were the top picks, as were a few of the nontraditional items such as fried corn fritters and fruit salad. No lie: A companion's beef rib overhung his plate. Beer & wine. 4522 Weber Rd (351-855-5454). Open 7 days 11-9. AE, DS, MC, V. $-$$ (W)
SMALL PLANET DELICATESSEN
(Update) The elaborate desserts--on display in the case by the cash register--are a major distraction at this delightfully arty dell, but we made ourselves go for something a bit more nutritious:a chicken chipotle wrap and a steaming cup of creamy curry soup with wild rice and corn. For a sweet ending, try a slice of rich Key lime pie or Italian
cream cake, Beer & wine 3812 S. Alameda (361-855 1892). Open Mon-Wed & Fri 9:30-6, Thur 9:30-8, Sat 9:30-5. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W)
SNOOPY'S PIER
(Update) This laid-back waterfront restaurant--one of our favorite summertime haunts--is a hit with locals and tourists alike. If you sit outside, you can watch the seagulls and fishing boats on the Intra coastal Waterway. We can't resist the fried shrimp, but the catch of the day--fried mahimahi--was just as good. You won't want to miss the delicious oniony coleslaw with poppy seed dressing. Beer & wine. 13313 Park Rd 22 (362-949-8815). Open 7 days 11-10. Cash only. $-$$ (W)
THAI COTTAGE
(Update) Terra-cotta colored walls and hardwood floors lend a tranquil feeling to this cozy space. We love the soft spring rolls, stuffed with shrimp, cilantro, and noodles and served with a thick peanut sauce, but the best bet is the yellow curry, a sweet and peppery blend of creamy curry, potatoes, and carrots. Beer & wine. 5830 McArdle Rd at Airline (361-993-0777). Lunch Mon-Sat 21-2:20. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 5-9:20 Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W)
Dallas
* ABACUS
(Update) We're impressed when the servers are as knowledgeable about complex, exotic creations as the chef is. We learned that our wood-grilled Cervena venison was tender and not gamy because it was raised near San Antonio, where mild winters discourage the accumulation of fat. The satiny game, with a Marsala demi-glace, was delicious on smoked cheddar-jalapeno bread pudding punctuated with corn and peppers. Bar. 4512 McKinney Ave (224-559-2111). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
ALLIGATOR CAFE
Having been pleased with the simpler offerings, we tried the Atchafalaya: two huge blackened catfish filets smothered with shrimp etouffee on a mound of rice. A circus of rich, well-defined flavors, it was a bargain of a feast at $9.75. Beer & wine. 4416 Live Oak (214-821-6900). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. AE, DC MC,...
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