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Article Excerpt
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Dining Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a TEXAS MONTHLY restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY Dining Guide, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to whealchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
CAFE AT THE FOUR SEASONS
(Update)
We sometimes forget about this lovely restaurant in the city's most beautifully landscaped hotel, but we're still raving about our recent dinner at the Cafe. Everything came together, from the salmon-colored roses on the white-linen-covered tables to the impeccable service. Chef Elmar Prambs delivered on both appetizers (delicious butternut empanadas) and entrees (superb veal chops with a Calvados-pecan sauce and pan seared halibut with a citrus-avocado relish). Bar (light fare 2-6). 98 San Jacinto (512-685-8300), Breakfast Mon-Fri 6:30-11, Sat 7-31:30, Sun 7-10:30. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2. Dinner Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Sat brunch 11:30-2, Sun brunch 10:30-2. Cr. $$$$ (W+)
CASTLE HILL CAFE
Though its reach occasionally exceeds its grasp, this longtime favorite offers a little something for everyone with its eclectic style and bold flavors. Our meal ranged the globe, from chicken-and-pork dumplings with an almond-hoisin sauce to pepita-crusted sea bass in a robust guajillo sauce. Beer & wine. 1101 W. 5th (512-476-0728). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Mon-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
* DRISKILL GRILL
(Update)
The city's most serene and historic dining room is also one of its most experimental Young chef David Bull regularly does sleight of hand with dishes like superb beef tartare gilded with crunchy tobiko and topped with a couple of featherlight fried oysters; or impeccable seared ahi tuna lightly coated in panko bread crumbs and black sesame seeds and sided by a Thai-style salad of lightly cooked calamari with thin slices of preserved tangerine. If you're too full for dessert, just wait: complimentary sweets (including, on our visit, a chai-flavored chocolate truffle) will send you happily home. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EL CHILE
What this brightly painted bungalow lacks in expensive trappings it more than makes up for with first-rate Mexican food with an interior vibe. Alma's Tortilla Soup offers deep chile flavor, and the special of the day might be, if you're lucky, a roasted poblano creatively stuffed with moist duck confit studded with almonds, green olives, and walnuts. Bar. 1809 Manor Rd (512-457-9900). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 11-3. AE, MC, V. $$ (W+)
ELSI'S
Elsi's new location--with apricot walls and a spiffy, high-tech look--is a great improvement over the old digs, and the excellent food hasn't changed one iota. The chicken flautas are as crisp as ever, the enchiladas--with an almost fluffy chipotle sauce--as soulful and savory. 6601 Burner Rd (512-454-0747). Open 7 days 7 a.m.-9 p.m. MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
FLEMING'S
The look may be traditional men's club, but this steakhouse is anything but stuffy. As for the food, the lamb chops were velvety and luscious and the ribeye flavorful, though the latter proved more done than we had requested. Even the predictable New York-style cheesecake was sublime. Bar. 320 E. 2nd (512-457-1500). Dinner Mon- Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. Cr. $$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
A menu that sports boar and rattlesnake and plates that are adorned with exotic-looking flowers--this is what we've come to expect from this paragon of fine dining. A beautiful grilled king salmon filet was paired with dill gnocchi in a buttery broth; it was heavenly. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W)
** JEFFREY'S
We lingered in this clean-lined, cozy neighborhood space and treated ourselves to the classics: a beautifully cooked beef tenderloin with ethereal cheddar-scallion mashed potatoes and veal ossobuco nearly outdone by its platemate, a glorious leek-and-blue-cheese risotto. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, 5un 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (tasting menus $55). (W) With assistance.
KOREANA
(Update)
You'll have a tough time choosing from the menu's mouth-wateringly detailed descriptions of sushi rolls, bulgogi, noodle dishes, and more. Start with the mandoo soup, a wonderfully aromatic egg-drop broth packed with tender, meaty dumplings. Our peppery yellowfin steak, perfectly pink inside, was drizzled with wasabi cream sauce; plump shrimp were dredged in lotus flour, fried, and topped with lemon slices and roasted jalapeno. The fresh ingredients and lively flavors suggest that everything on the menu is good. Beer & wine. 12196 N. MoPac Expy (Loop 1) (512-835-8888). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Sat 5-10, Sun 5-9. Cr. $$ (W+)
LA TRAVIATA
We like this small, limestone-walled Italian restaurant, but a recent weekday lunch was a little uneven. A panino with chicken moved us in the right way, but spaghetti bolognese proved unbalanced (venison seemed to dominate the rich ragu of pork, beef, and venison). Bar. 314 Congress Ave (512-479-8131). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
MOONSHINE
(Update)
This popular place has the right formula: upscale comfort food in a limestone building that has been around since Austin was a pup. Gratis popcorn arrives immediately, then you get down to the serious business of eating. A lunchtime sauteed trout filet was buttery heaven, though the "stuffing" was more like a crisp, fluffy topping. It bested the rather lackluster chicken potpie. Good, homey sides included green beans, nicely seasoned corn off the cob, red beans with rice, and mashed potatoes. Bar. 303 Red River (512-235-9599). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-4. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Sun brunch 10:30-2:30. Cr. $$ (W+)
POLVOS
We had an exceptional meal on a recent chilly evening. A huge bowl of satisfying tortilla soup got things started off right. Moist red snapper ala plancha proved the highlight of the evening--well, if you don't count the fabulous people-watching from one of the funkiest patios in town. Bar. 2004 5. 1st (512-441-5445). Open Sun-Thur 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri & Sat 7-midnight. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W)
ROCCO'S GRILL
(Update)
One glance and we could tell that this vibrant spot is a place where business is transacted, friendships are tended, and plenty of wine is enjoyed. We indulged in the last two on a recent visit, all the while making room for a generous bread-crumb-crusted mahimahi (a tad dry and sparingly topped with lump crabmeat) and an expertly cooked nine-ounce tenderloin that disappeared in no time flat. The evening's best, however, was the flavor-packed baked goat cheese pomodoro appetizer. One caveat: We would have lingered had it not been for slightly impatient service. Bar. 612 W. 6th (512-480-5920). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3. Dinner 7 days 5-10 (call, closing times vary; late night fare Fri & Sat until 1 a.m.). AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
VENTANA
(Update)
Upon our visit to the student-staffed fine-dining restaurant at the Texas Culinary Academy, sharing only seemed fair, especially when what appeared before us included trout meuniere (two seasoned rainbow trout filets resting in an ethereal lemon-parsley-butter sauce; simply put, it was simplicity at its finest), salmon over scallion-mascarpone polenta and a pinot noir jus, and light-as-air creme brulee. We forgave the missteps of inexperienced servers. Beer & wine. Texas Culinary Academy, 11400 Burner Rd; turn left (west) at first driveway just north of Kramer Ln (there is no light) and park on right (512-339-3850). Open Tue-Fri 11-1:30 & 5:30-9. Closed Sat-Mon. Reservations required. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
On a recent muggy Tuesday evening, this SoCo hot spot, done in minimalist grays sparked by flashes of red, was packed. But of course: The dishes are consistently impressive, from the freshly made mozzarella with warm prosciutto to the champagne risotto with creamy mascarpone topped with butter-poached lobster. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Reservations Tue-Thur & Sun until 6:30. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
AL-T'S SEAFOOD AND STEAKHOUSE
When a chill hangs in the air, nothing is more welcome than a steaming bowl of red beans and rice with sausage (appropriately served with homemade cornbread). Another home-cooking favorite from big, busy, hospitable AI-T's is creamy mashed potato salad with a mustardy flair. Texas Hwy 124 & Spur 5, Winnie (409-296-9818). Open Mon-Sat 6-10, Sun 7-9. Cr. $$ (W+)
CARMELA'S
The digs are new, as is the fancy-pants bar. But the solid Tex-Mex menu remains. Rich chile con queso and nachos loaded with tender fajita style beef, refried beans, and zesty guacamole were the perfect accompaniment to an ice-cold margarita (or should that be the other way around?). 3925 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-898-4745). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-3. Cr. $$ (W+)
SARTIN'S SEAFOOD
(Update)
All-you-can-eat platters rule at this family-run spot, but believe it or not, it is possible to avoid overindulgence. We exercised portion control with cool-yet-kicky crab-stuffed jalapenos, fat and tasty barbecued crabs, tender fried catfish filets, and creamy coleslaw. Okay, okay. So maybe "control" was loosely defined, but at least we didn't waddle out. Beer & wine. 6725 Eastex Fwy (US Hwy 69), Beaumont (409-892-6771). Open 7 days 11-10. MC, V. $$ (W+)
SPINDLETOP
(Update)
Out-of-towners will enjoy Spindletop's "boomtown" decor, family friendly atmosphere, and classic (if slightly boring) menu of good-for-the-whole-brood standards of steak, chicken, and pasta. Our clan especially liked the chicken Alfredo (tossed with fettuccine and the usual creamy sauce) and a decadent slice of chocolate mousse cake. 290 Crockett, Beaumont (409-833-9688). Open Mon& Tue 11-9 Wed & Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11-8. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
TUFFY'S EATERY
(Update)
Man cannot survive on Tuffy's yeast roils alone, though we wouldn't mind trying. Also needed are batter-fried Monte Cristo sandwiches (ham or turkey plus melted Swiss and American cheeses), creamy cheese soup, and a slice (or two) from one of the cakes on display on the antique soda fountain counter (we're fond of the coconut pineapple). For those trying to keep a "healthy heart," the chicken salad stuffed tomato with a side of fresh fruit makes the grade. 11261 Texas Hwy 12, Mauriceville (409-745 3170). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-8. Cr. $$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
DENTONI'S
Bold red and purple wails, black furniture, and beer signs make an edgy statement at this downtown pizzeria. Stop here for flavorful pies, including a tasty Greek version laden with meatballs, artichoke hearts, black olives, sliced red onion, fresh basil, and feta. Burgers, calzoni, and sandwiches round out the offerings. Beer & wine. 415 Williams (361-881-9886). Open Mon & Tue 10:30-10, Wed 10:30-midnight, Thur & Fri 10:30-3:30, Sat 5-3:30 Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W)
HOWARD'S BAR-B-Q
The low-carb faithful find nirvana here, where meat reigns supreme on every plate. Will our choice today be tender sliced beef, pork ribs, sausage, or chicken? Such decisions. Side dishes include ranch-style beans, sweet coleslaw, and pickles. The rustic decor features local memorabilia on the wails. 1002 Antelope (361-882-1200). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3. Closed Sat & Sun. Cr. $$
IMPERIAL CAFE AND SUSHI BAR
(Update)
A wall of flowing water greets diners at this upscale restaurant, which has proved to be one of the city's most popular. We can't get enough of the tuna sashimi dressed with cracked black pepper, the thick spring rolls, or the endless sushi rolls, many named after regular customers. We recommend the spider roll (with soft-shelled crab) or the red-and-green Christmas roll (smoked eel and smoked salmon). Excellent service in spite of the crowds. Beer & wine. 5702 S. Staples (361-980-1423). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:15. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9:15, Fri & Sat 5:30-9:45. Closed Sun. Cr. $$-$$$ (W)
VIETNAM
This gracious Vietnamese restaurant Ts an oasis amid life's daily stresses. We lunched happily on bun bo nuong--strips of tender beef with lemongrass served atop vermicelli, shredded lettuce, mint, bean sprouts, and sliced cucumbers. Oriental screens and a larger-than-life golden Buddha add Asian authenticity. Bar. 701 N. Water (361-853-2682). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun. Cr. $$$ (W)
Small, new, or offbeat
OPHRAKA'S
The latest in a string of new Asian restaurants, this beige-and-cream downtown spot makes a splash with fiery noodle dishes and sushi. We began a recent lunch with a creamy egg-drop soup jazzed with black pepper. A Thai version of chicken salad featured minced chicken, green onions, cilantro, lime juice, and chunks of eye-watering red peppers; thank goodness we opted for the mild version (spice levels range from "coward" to "true Thai"). Beer & wine. 429 Schatzel (361-885-0880). Open Mon-Thur 11-3, Fri 11-3 & 5-9, Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W+) Women's restroom only.
Dallas
* ABACUS
(Update)
Ensconced in this small, posh room, we were off to a piquant start with a spinach salad dotted with feta, marinated kalamata olives, and oven-dried cherry tomatoes. Then it was on to the wood-grilled Texas antelope. Though a touch chewy, it was served with a spectacular English pea risotto. The word "inspired" can certainly be applied to our dessert of lemon sponge cake layered with limoncello zabaglione, macerated berries, and a scoop of mandarin orange-lemongrass sorbet Bar. 4511 McKinney Ave (214-559-3111). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
AMORE
This Park Cities old-timer is casual and family-oriented, with predictable and fairly priced southern Italian standards. Teodoro's Trio offers three dishes in one steaming casserole: classic meat lasagne, rigatoni with rich ricotta, and lightly battered eggplant parmigiana. Bar (with membership). 6931 Snider Plaza (214-739-0502). Open Mon-Thur 11-9:30, Fri 11-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5-8:30. AE, MC...
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