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Where to eat now 2005: at this year's crop of the best new restaurants in Texas, you can dine amid rustic charm or industrial austerity on food that's down-home or upscale--or both at once. And the fish is delish.

Article Excerpt
LIKE MOST PEOPLE, I'M A PUSHOVER for a new restaurant. As soon as a sign goes up saying "Coming Soon," I can't wait to be the first in line. For someone with this attitude, last year was a good year. But it wasn't, in the words of the song, a very good year. Maybe because the preceding year was so spectacular, what with the debut of two amazing restaurants--Artista, in Houston, and Aurora, in Dallas--it was inevitable that this year's choices would suffer by comparison. Or maybe I'm getting fussier (nab, not possible). But whatever the reason, I felt that--even at some of the best places--a few things weren't quite as they should be, with misdemeanors ranging from uneven quality and execution of dishes to seriously ditzy service. And given the prices on many menus these days, I don't feel like waiting for someone to iron out the wrinkles. * That said, I ate well, not to mention often, while researching this story. If you asked me what stood out, I would say the fish, because not one but two of the top new restaurants--Pesca and 7--focus their considerable talents on seafood. But that's not to say that meat got short shrift: I'm still dreaming about 17's celestial veal shank, and Lanny's peppered elk loin definitely warmed up my winter of discontent. * As in previous years, I included only homegrown restaurants, which ruled out newcomers like Bank Jean-Georges, in Houston, part of New York restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten's far-flung empire. To be in the running, a restaurant had to have opened--or acquired a new owner, chef, and name--between November 1, 2003, and November 1, 2004 (although I confess I did let in two slightly older establishments that were not on my radar screen last year. It's nice being queen; you get to make the rules and then break them). So check out these places. They are where I would like to be eating right now.

(1) 17 (HOUSTON)

Do chefs have seasons? If so, then 17's Jeff Armstrong is a brilliant cold-weather chef. In my book, there is no better spot for robust sauces and long-simmered meats than the dining room of the Sam Houston Hotel. Take the young maestro's pappardelle with veal shank, the meat and broad ribbons of...

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