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Article Excerpt
The Dining Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a TEXAS MONTHLY restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY Dining Guide, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE *** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant. ** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant * One star designates an extremely good restaurant
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Vis. Cr. All major credit cards accepted No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12 $$ $12-$30 $$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W+) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
CASTLE HILL CAFE
Though its reach occasionally exceeds its grasp, this longtime favorite offers a little something for everyone with its eclectic style and bold flavors. Our meal ranged the globe, from chicken-and-pork dumplings with an almond-hoisin sauce to pepita-crusted sea bass in a robust guajillo sauce. Beer & wine. 1101 W. 5th (512-476-0728). Lunch Mon-Fri 31-2:30. Dinner Mon-Sat 6-20. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
CHINATOWN
This tastefully decorated restaurant was buzzing on a recent weekday lunch outing. Typically, the service was cordial and fast--and the food right on. Pork in garlic sauce was delicious, and beef (a little fatty) with green peppers and onions left us warm and cozy. Bar. 3300 Bee Caves Rd (512-327-6588). Open 7 days 11-10. Cr. $$ (W+)
* DRISKILL GRILL
Our latest excursion to chef David Bull's posh culinary wonderland explored the contrasts of sweet and savory. Exhibit 1: an appetizer of three foie gras preparations, including a lovely seared morsel sided by a rhubarb, red wine, and port jam. Exhibit 2: perfectly cooked rack of lamb with an unctuously good bone-marrow custard. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (812-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
EL CHILE
(Update) What this brightly painted bungalow lacks in expensive trappings it more than makes up for with first-rate Mexican food with an interior vibe. Alma's Tortilla Soup offers deep chile flavor, and the special of the day might be, if you're lucky, a roasted poblano creatively stuffed with moist duck confit studded with almonds, green olives, and walnuts, then encircled by a lush and winey walnut cream sauce. Bar. 1809 Manor Rd (522-457-9900). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 11-3. AE, MC, V. $$ (W+)
ELSI'S
Elsi's new location--with apricot walls and a spiffy, high-tech look--is a great improvement over the old digs, and the excellent food hasn't changed one iota. The chicken flautas are as crisp as ever, the enchiladas--with an almost fluffy chipotle sauce--as soulful and savory. 6601 Burner Rd (512-494-0747). Open Sun-Thur 7 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri & .Sat 7-10. MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
FLEMING'S
The hip tunes piped over the sound system (no elevator music here) clued us in. The look may be traditional men's club, but this steakhouse is anything but stuffy. As for the food, the lamb chops were velvety and luscious and the rib-eye flavorful, though the latter proved more done than we bad requested. Even the predictable New York-style cheesecake was sublime. Bar. 320 E. 2nd (512-497-1900). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. Cr. $$$ (W+)
HOOVER'S COOKING
If ever we wished for a superpower, it would be uncloggable arteries, better to enable a three meal-a-day diet of Hoover's home-style cooking. But until that day comes, we'll hold tight to the memories of crisp, batter-fried chicken-flied chicken and bowls brimming with fried okra and gooey macaroni and cheese. Bar. 2002 Manor Rd. (922-479-5006). Open Mon-Fri 12-10, Sat & Sun 8-10. DC, DE, MC, V. $-$$ (W)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
(Update) A menu that sports boar and rattlesnake and plates that are adorned with exotic-looking flowers--this is what we've come to expect from this paragon of fine dining. A beautiful grilled king salmon filet was paired with dill glorious in a buttery broth; it was heavenly. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (912-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9 Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W)
** JEFFREY'S
(Update) Happy to escape the chill outside, we lingered in this clean-lined, cozy neighborhood space and treated ourselves to cold-weather classics: a beautifully cooked beef tenderloin with ethereal cheddar-scallion mashed potatoes; a lamb T-bone spiked with a lusty Morello cherry-port sauce; and veal ossobuco nearly outdone by its platemate, a glorious leek-and-blue-cheese risotto. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-9584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 9:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$$-$$$ (tasting menus $55). (W) With assistance.
LA TRAVIATA
(Update) We like this small, limestone-walled Italian restaurant, so imagine our dismay when a weekday lunch was less than perfect. And, believe us, we've had some fine meals here--the chicken Parmesan is a fave. A panino with chicken moved us in the right way, but spaghetti bolognese proved unbalanced (venison seemed to dominate the rich ragu of pork, beef, and venison).The low point? Our server wiped our table with a dingy wet rag before asking us if we cared for dessert. After that, not likely. Bar. 314 Congress Ave (912-479-8132). Lunch Mon-Fri 11.30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
POLVOS
We had an exceptional meal on a recent chilly evening. A huge bowl of satisfying tortilla soup got things started off right. Moist red snapper a la plancha proved the highlight of the evening--well, if you don't count the fabulous people-watching from one of the funkiest patios in town. Bar. 2004 S. 1st (512-441-5446). Open Sun-Thur 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri & Sat 7-midnight. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W)
7
Simple lines and muted coastal colors conjure a vibe that's perfectly suited to 7% unpretentious cuisine. We enjoyed a lemony Caesar salad, beautifully seared sea scallops in a lemon-thyme beurre blanc, and the piece de resistance, a wonderful whole branzino (a Mediterranean sea bass) roasted with lemon, rosemary, and thyme. For a side dish, don't miss the cloudlike gnocchi--Italian dumplings from heaven. Beer & wine. 1726 S. Congress Ave (912-383-8877). Dinner Mon-Thur 9:30-10, Fri & Sat 9:30-10:30, Sun 9:30-9. Cr. $55 (W+)
TAM DELI AND CAFE
A bit flustered upon arrival, we were soon calmed by the simply adorned, well-lit space. Shredded-yam-and-shrimp cakes were more ethereal in texture than taste, but the entree that followed-garlic-walloped shrimp on skewers--packed plenty of flavor. 8222 N. Lamar (912-834-6498). Open .Sun, Mon& Wed-.Sat 10-8. Closed Tue. MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
(Update) On a recent muggy Tuesday evening, this SoCo hot spot, done in minimalist grays sparked by flashes of red, was packed. But of course: The dishes are consistently impressive, from the freshly made mozzarella with warm prosciutto to the greens tossed in a citrus vinaigrette to the spaghetti with caramelized eggplant in a tomato-and-Chianti sauce. But it was the champagne risotto with creamy mascarpone (yes, mascarpone) topped with butter-poached lobster that blew us away. Brilliant! Bar. 2610 S. Congress Ave (912-442-5100). Dinner Tue-Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Reservations Tue-Thur & Sun until 6:30. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
JOHN MUELLER'S BAR-B-Q
What was once home to the pink pig of BBQ World Headquarters is now the second residence of popular John Mueller's (the pig remains, by the way, as a guidepost to this tucked-in locale). After having our trays loaded with a couple of white-bread sandwiches--one piled high with moist turkey, the other with flavorful brisket-a cup of peppery green been casserole, and two mammoth glasses of iced tea (a little watery for our liking), we settled down at an outdoor picnic table, treated to a sighting of Mr. Mueller himself as he roamed the grounds. 6701 Burnet Rd (512-323-9109). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-4. Closed Bun. No Cr. $
ROCCO'S GRILL
A wood-burning fireplace took away the chill of a blustery afternoon at this expansive new spot, with white tablecloths and colorful murals. A house salad of mixed greens, spicy pecans, apple, and blue cheese crumbles begged to be devoured. We complied. Our companion wished for several bowls of the soup of the day, a hearty vegetable; spaghetti with meatballs had Old World flavor. The dinner menu--with the likes of grilled mahimahi and rack of lamb--is decidedly more upscale. Bar. 612 W. 6th (512-480-5920). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3. Dinner 7 days 5-10 (call, closing times vary," late night fare Fri & Sat until 1 a.m.). AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
AL-T'S SEAFOOD AND STEAKHOUSE
When a chill hangs in the air, nothing is more welcome than a steaming bowl of red beans and rice with sausage (appropriately served with homemade cornbread). Another home-cooking favorite from big, busy, hospitable AI-T's is creamy mashed potato salad with a mustardy flair. Texas Hwy 124 & Spur 5, Winnie (409-296-9818). Open Mon-Sat 6-10, Sun 7-9. Cr. $$ (W+)
CARMELA'S
The digs are new, as is the fancy-pants bar. But the solid Tex-Mex menu remains. Rich chile con queso and nachos loaded with tender fajita-style beef, refried beans, and zesty guacamole were the perfect accompaniment to an ice-cold margarita (or should that be the other way around?). 3925 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-898-4745). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-3. Cr. $$ (W+)
WILLY RAY'S BAR-B-Q CO.
With Texas hospitality, owners Milly and Mike Dougay have been serving their award-winning barbecue for more than 10 years. The smoked brisket is flavorful, the pork ribs tender, and the sausage links supremo. Carrot souffle--a sweet yet savory blend of carrots and sweet potatoes--must be sampled. The setting is surprisingly upscale for a place serving barbecue. Beer & wine. 145 1-10N, Beaumont (409-832-7770). Open 7 days 11-P. Cr. $ (W+)
Corpus Christi
ARANSAZU
The seafood bisque alone is worth a trip to this lovely little restaurant with nets and rods artistically arranged on the walls. We also approve of the grilled salmon topped with crawfish, onion, and green and red bell pepper. The Chocolate Intemperance--a flourless fudge pie with an Oreo-cookie crust--lived up to its name. Beer & wine. 2841 Texas Hwy 35N, Rockport (351-727-1105). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Bat 11-10. Closed Bun. Cr. $$ (W)
DENTONI'S
(Update) Bold red and purple walls, black furniture, and beer signs make an edgy statement at this downtown pizzeria. Stop here for flavorful pies, including a tasty Greek version laden with meatballs, artichoke hearts, black olives, sliced red onion, fresh basil, and feta. We also rave about the South Texas pizza, with pepperoni and jalapenos. Burgers, calzoni, and sandwiches round out the offerings. Beer & wine. 415 Williams (362-881-9886). Open Mon & Tue 10:30-10, Wed 10:30-midnight, Thur & Fri 10:30-3:30, Sat 5 p.m.-3:30 a.m. Closed Bun. Cr. $$ (W)
GAETANO'S RISTORANTE
A tall mural of a cobblestone street scene in an Italian village sets the right note at this new restaurant. We eagerly attacked our spinach salad in warm bacon vinaigrette, but the most fun was creating our own pasta entree. We chose penne with pancetta, salmon, mushrooms, and artichoke hearts, all tossed in a decadent Alfredo sauce. Bar. 1002 Santa Fe (361-884-9508). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Wed-Sat 5:30-9:30. Closed Sun. Cr, $$ (W)
HOWARD'S BAR-B-Q
(Update) The low-carb faithful find nirvana here, where meat reigns supreme on every plate. Will our choice today be tender sliced beef, pork ribs, sausage, or chicken? Such decisions. Side dishes include ranch-style beans, sweet coleslaw, and pickles. The rustic decor features local memorabilia on the walls. 1002 Antelope (361-882-1200). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3. Closed Sat & Sun. Cr. $$
HU DAT NOODLE HOUSE
The new quarters--with bare wooden tables in a warehouselike space--are as minimal as the old, and the Vietnamese food is still delicious. Our favorite is the special combination vermicelli salad bowl: grilled beef and shrimp served with two crisp egg rolls, lettuce, carrot, cucumber, and crushed peanuts, all for $6.95. BYOB. 6418 S. Staples (361-906-1111). Open Mon-Fri 10:30-2:30 & 5-9, Sat 10:30-9. Closed Sun. Cr. $ (W)
VIETNAM
(Update) This gracious Vietnamese restaurant is an oasis amid life's daily stresses. We lunched happily on bun bo nuong--strips of tender beef with lemon-grass served atop vermicelli, shredded lettuce, mint, bean sprouts, and sliced cucumbers. The accompanying crisp-fried imperial roll and creamy rice-and-chicken soup proved delicious distractions. Oriental screens and a larger-than-life golden Buddha add Asian authenticity. Bar. 701 N. Water (361-853-2682). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2 Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun. Cr. $$$ (W)
Dallas
* ABACUS
In a beautiful, high-energy room, we started with a pricey appetizer of a diver scallop (yes, just one) with a glaze of basil-truffle oil. Not feeling stuffed, needless to say, we still had room for two flavorful hunks of seared Nova Scotia halibut paired with basil gnocchi, grilled asparagus, and jumbo lump crab. Bar. 4511 McKinney Ave (214-559-3111). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W)
AMORE
(Update) This Park Cities old-timer is casual and family-oriented, and the predictable southern Italian standards are well prepared and fairly priced. Teodoro's Trio offers three dishes in one steaming casserole: classic meat lasagne, rigatoni with rich ricotta, and lightly battered eggplant parmigiana. As all were ladled with pomodoro sauce, the flavors were similar, but the textures contrasted nicely. Bar (with membership). 6931 Snider Plaza (214-739-0502). Open Mon-Thur 11-9:30, Fri 11-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Bun 5-8:30. AE, MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
AURORA
Allow us to rave--loving touches, intelligent cuisine, and elegant appointments make Aurora truly special; even the bread and butter (cranberry-pistachio bread and mini-baguettes with English goat's milk butter) are unique. For a light lunch, the Jonah crab salad was beautiful and flavorful, with heirloom tomatoes, hearts of palm, and amaranth sprouts. Bar. 4216 Oak Lawn Ave (214-528-9400). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$$$ (W+)
CAFE ISTANBUL
Savory, falling-off-the-bone lamb shanks, together with mashed potatoes and roasted carrots, hit the spot on a cool night. A small Mediterranean salad full of colors and texture was the perfect addition. Multitiered and rather dimly lit, Istanbul has a pleasantly rustic feel. Beer & wine. 5450 W. Lovers Ln (214-902-0919). Open Tue-Thur 11:30-2:30 & 5-10, Fri 11:30-2:30 & 5-11, Sat 1-11, Sun 11:30-10:30. Closed Mon. AE, MC, V.$$ (W)
CAFE...
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