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Article Excerpt
The Dining Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a TEXAS MONTHLY restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY Dining Guide, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa, Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted,
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call a head. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
CASTLE HILL CAFE
(Update) Though its reach occasionally exceeds its grasp, this longtime favorite offers a little g for everyone with its eclectic style and bold flavors, Our meal ranged the globe, from chicken and pork dumplings with an almond-hoisin sauce to pepita-crusted sea bass in a robust guajillo sauce and a rustic tea-rubbed pork chop with bacon scallion creme fraiche. We could do without the plastic water glasses and a menu that details every ingredient down to chicken broth, but who's complaining. Beer & wine. 1101 W. 5th (522-476-0728). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Men-Sat 6-10 Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC. V $$
CHINATOWN
This tastefully decorated restaurant was buzzing on a recent weekday lunch outing, Typically, the service was cordial and fast-and the food right on. Pork in garlic sauce was delicious, and beef (a little fatty) with green peppers and onions left us warm and cozy. Bar. 3300 Bee Caves Rd (512-327-6588). Lunch 7 days 11-2:30. Dinner 7 days 4:30-10. Cr. $$ (W+)
* DRISKILL GRILL
Our latest excursion to chef David Bull's posh culinary wonderland explored the contrasts of sweet and savory. Exhibit 1: an appetizer of three foie gras preparations, including a lovely seared morsel sided by a rhubarb, red wine, and port jam. Exhibit 2: perfectly cooked rack of lamb with an unctuously good bone-marrow custard. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 504 Brazes (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Men. Reservations recommended weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
ELSI'S
Elsi's new location--with apricot walls and a spiffy, high-tech look--is a great improvement over the old digs, and the excellent food hasn't changed one iota, The chicken flautas are as crisp as ever, the enchiladas--with an almost fluffy chipotle sauce as soulful and savory, 6601 Burnet Rd (512-454-0747). Open Sun-Thur 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 7-11. MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
FLEMING'S
(Update) The hip tunes piped over the sound system (no elevator music here) clued us in. The look may be traditional men's club, but this steakhouse is anything but stuffy. The servers are detail-oriented, and the presentations are beautiful Now the food: Though more done than we had requested, the ribeye was flavorful, and the lamb chops velvety and luscious. Even the predictable New York-style cheesecake proved to be sublime. Bar. 320 E. 2nd (512-457-1500). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. Cr. $$$ (W+)
GREEN MESQUITE BARBEQUE AND MORE
"And more" indeed. Even the reduced carb craze makes itself felt on the extensive menu at this uber-casual establishment. But we stuck with what felt right for a vinyl-booth, checkerboard floor kind of joint: smoky brisket, turkey, moist chicken, mustardy potato salad, and pintos. Beer & wine 1400 Barton Springs Rd (512-479-0485). Open 7 days 11-10. Call for other location. Cr. $ (W+)
HOOVER'S COOKING
If ever we wished for a superpower, it would be uncloggable arteries, better to enable a three-meal-a-day diet of Hoover's home-style cooking, But until that day comes, we'll hold tight to the memories of crisp, batter-fried chicken-fried chicken and bowls brimming with fried okra and gooey macaroni and cheese. Bar. 2002 Manor Rd (512-479-5006). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat & Sun 8-10. DC, DS, MC, V. $-$$ (W)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
A menu that sports boar and rattlesnake and plates that are adorned with exotic-looking flowers this is what we've come to expect from this paragon of fine dining. A beautiful grilled king salmon filet was paired with dill gnocchi in a buttery broth; it was heavenly. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Men 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W)
** JEFFREY'S
One of the quieter restaurants in town, this oasis of unstuffy sophistication is always exceedingly pleasant. A generous ribeye with blue cheese atop herb risotto was decadence personified and the peppered ahi tuna steak a gorgeous expression of deft technique. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended, Cr. $$$-$$$$ (Tasting menus $55-$65.) (W) With assistance.
POLVOS
We had a truly exceptional meal on a recent chilly evening. A huge bowl of satisfying tortilla soup got things started off right. Moist red snapper a la plancha proved the highlight of the evening--well, if you don't count the fabulous people-watching from one of the funkiest patios in town. Bar. 2004 S. 1st (512-441-5446). Open Sun-Thur 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri & Sat 7-midnight. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W)
ROY'S
Like the incessant "alohas" from the well meaning staff, everyone's heart is in the right place, and the soaring room is lovely. Our happiest choice was tilapia in a full-flavored lemon-ginger soy beurre blanc But other dishes suffered from a fate that bedevils much fusion fare (Hawaiian, in this case): shaky technique undermining imaginative ideas. A tiger-shrimp pud Thai proved flavorful but soupy, while a hazelnut-crusted mahimahi arrived undercooked. Bar 340 E. 2nd (522 392-2500). Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-9, Tue & Wed 5:30-9:30, Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$ (W)
7
Clean lines and cool, coastal colors conjure a v[be that's perfectly suited to 7's unpretentious cuisine. We enjoyed a lemony Caesar salad, beautifully seared sea scallops in a lemon-thyme beurre blanc, and the piece de resistance, a wonderful whole branzino (a Mediterranean sea bass) roasted with lemon, rosemary, and thyme. Beer & wine. 1715 5. Congress Ave (522-383-8877). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5:30-9. Cr. $$$ (W+)
TAM DELI AND CAFE
A bit flustered upon arrival, we were soon calmed by the simply adorned, well-lit space Shredded-yam-and-shrimp cakes were more ethereal in texture than in taste, but the entrEe that followed garlic-walloped shrimp on skewers--packed plenty of flavor. 8222 N. Lamar (512-834-6458). Open Sun, Mon & Wed-Sat 10-8. Closed Tue. MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
UCHI
Exhibiting a playful approach, intriguing pairings, and exquisite skill, the offerings at this jewel toned sushi temple inspire us to empty our bank account and never look back. Worth a broken bank: sake-steamed mussels in a kaffir lime-miso broth and a delightful roll of yellowfin tuna and avocado enveloped in crunchy, warm tempura bits. Beer, wine & sake 802 5. Lamar (512-916-4808). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5.30-11. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
We'd been craving just about anything from this stylish Italian restaurant in SoCo, so we opted for an early dinner on a weekday night to avoid a long wait. True to form, our meal was outstanding, from the pan-seared scallops to the ravioli di vitello (pasta pillows stuffed with veal in a tomato and basil sauce). Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Tue-Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Ct. $$-$$$ (W+)
ZOOT
With Stewart Scruggs (co-owner of Wink) back at the helm, Zoot is as good as it's ever been. Weekends buzz, but calmer weekday evenings are perfect for savoring a lovely buttermilk-dressed baby spinach salad with slivers of Asian pear, followed by tender roasted pork loin with an autumnal cranberry-maple reduction. Intimate lighting makes the old house glow. Beer & wine. 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Dinner Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri-Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
UNO'S PIZZA GALLERY
Greeted by Bogie and Bergman (Casablanca played on the back wall) and a burst of intense color, we were instantly charmed by this casual nook, an offshoot of cozy 360 Uno Espresso & Vino. Although service lacked sophistication, the food was above par, particularly the polio alla cacciatore (a tender chicken breast smothered in a garlicky red sauce loaded with mushrooms, onions, roasted peppers, and olives). Pizza options range from the simple formaggi (mozzarella and tomato sauce) to the complex frutti di mare (topped with shrimp, mussels, and escargots). Bar. Davenport Village shopping center, 3801 Capital of Texas Hwy (512-327-4448). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-9. DC, DS, MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
AL-T'S SEAFOOD AND STEAKHOUSE
(Update) On those dark and stormy nights, when a chill hangs in the air, nothing is more welcome than a steaming bowl of red beans and rice with sausage (appropriately served with homemade cornbread). Another home-cooking favorite from hospitable AI-T's is creamy mashed potato salad with a mustardy flair. Hwy 124 & Spur 5, Winnie (409-296-9818). Open Mon-Sat 6-10, Sun 7-9. Cr. $$ (W+)
CARLO'S
Hospitality and warmth abound at this longtime Italian restaurant. The evening's roll call of comfort food began with warm cheese bread and delicious carciofi fritti (deep-fried artichokes), a personal favorite. The second wave--lightly breaded yet hearty eggplant parmigiana--didn't disappoint either. Bar. 2570 Calder, Beaumont (409-833-0108). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Cr. $$ (W)
CARMELA'S
(Update) The digs are new, as is the fancy-pants bar. But the solid Tex-Mex menu remains. Rich chile con queso and nachos loaded with tender fajita-style beef, refried beans, and zesty guacamole were the perfect accompaniment to an ice-cold margarita (or should that be the other way around?). 3925 Calder, Beaumont (409-898-4745). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-3:30. Cr. $$ (W+)
ESTHER'S CAJUN SEAFOOD AND OYSTER BAR
Restaurant meets beach house at this casually rustic spot. You'll be hard-pressed to find better--or messier--barbecued crabs than the ones served here. If you prefer to eat with a fork, we recommend the tender fried catfish. 7237 Rainbow Ln, Port Arthur (409-962-6268). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$ (W+)
WILLY RAY'S BAR-B-Q CO.
With Texas hospitality, owners Milly and Mike Dougay have been serving their award-winning barbecue for more than 10 years. The smoked brisket is flavorful, the pork ribs tender, and the sausage links supremo. Carrot souffle--a sweet yet savory blend of carrots and sweet potatoes--is a must-try. Beer & wine. 145 I-10N, Beaumont (409-832-7770). Open 7 days 11-9. Cr. $ (W+)
Corpus Christi
ARANSAZU (Update) The seafood bisque alone is worth a trip to this lovely little restaurant with nets and rods artistically arranged on the walls and rose-filled vases atop tables dressed in white. We also approve of the grilled salmon topped with crawfish, onion, and green and red bell pepper. The Chocolate Intemperance--a flourless fudge pie with an Oreo-cookie crust--lived up to its name. Beer & wine. 2841 Texas Hwy 35N, Rockport (351-727-1105). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W)
GAETANO'S RISTORANTE
A tall mural of a cobblestone street scene in an Italian village sets the right note at this new restaurant. We eagerly attacked our spinach salad in warm bacon vinaigrette, but the most Fun was creating our own pasta entree. We chose penne with pancetta, salmon, mushrooms, and artichoke hearts, all tossed in a decadent Alfredo sauce. Bar. 1002 Santa Fe (361-884-9508). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Wed-Sat 5:30-9:30. Closed Sun. Ct. $$ (W)
HU DAT NOODLE HOUSE
The new quarters--with bare wooden tables in a warehouselike space--are as minimal as the old, and the Vietnamese food is still delicious. Our favorite is the special combination vermicelli salad bowl: grilled beef and shrimp served with two crisp egg rolls, lettuce, carrot, cucumber, and crushed peanuts, all For 56.95. BYOB. 6418 S. Staples (362-906-1111). Open Mon-Fri 10:30-2:30 & 5-9, Sat 10:30-9. Closed Sun. Cr. $ (W)
MAMMA MIA'S
At this popular downtown trattoria, the background music features operatic arias. The fried shrimp Parmesan--served on linguine with tomato sauce and melted Parmesan--was perfect, and we also approved of the Marsala-spiked strawberry zabaglione. Beer & wine. 128 N. Mesquite (361-883-3773). Dinner Tue-Sat 5-10:30 (call; closing time varies). Closed Sun & Mon. No Cr. $$-$$$ (W)
TAQUERIA ACAPULCO
Low prices and hearty portions of satisfying Tex-Mex fare are the hallmarks of this bustling, casual restaurant with huge paintings of Latin American towns on the wails. At lunch, we had a combination plate that included fork-tender beef chunks simmered with tomato and green pepper, two tamales, rice, and beans. Beer. 5937 McArdle (361-906-2686). Open 7 days 6 a.m.-11 p.m. Cr. $ (W)
THAILAND
We love this low key restaurant almost as much for its engaging wall hangings (mainly featuring elephants) as for its authentic Asian cuisine. California salmon sushi made us happy. But it was the makati--translucent noodles tossed with sauteed beef and soybeans in coconut milk--that elicited the widest smiles. Beer & wine. 5506 Saratoga Blvd at Staples (361-980-0404). Open Mon-Thur 11-2:30 & 5-9:30, Fri 11-2:30 & 5-10, Sat noon-10. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W)
Dallas
* ABACUS
In a beautiful, high energy room, we started with a pricey appetizer of a diver scallop (yes, just one) with a glaze of basil-truffle oil and a fingerling potato split into four pieces. Not feeling stuffed, needless to say, we still had room for two flavorful hunks of seared Nova Scotia halibut paired with basil gnocchi, grilled asparagus, and jumbo lump crab. Bar. 4521 McKinney Ave (214-559-3111). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
AURORA
Allow us to rave--loving touches, intelligent cuisine, and elegant appointments make Aurora truly special; even the bread and butter-cranberry-pistachio bread and mini-baguettes with English goat's milk butter-are unique. For a light lunch, the Jonah crab salad was beautiful...
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