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Article Excerpt
The Dining Guide
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Dining Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a TEXAS MONTHLY restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY Dining Guide, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
(W) Call ahead With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Austin
ATHENIAN GRILL
Downtown workers have an economical new midday option. The Athenian salad comes generously topped with chicken sliced from a vertical spit and a tart house dressing (Greek ranch, basically). In the evening, the pleasant room makes an easygoing setting for the likes of tender lamb chops. Beer & wine. 705 Colorado (512-482-8988). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
AZUL
The casual but sophisticated menu at this groovy little East Austin coffee shop is more ambitious than the plastic forks might suggest. We were sated by the juicy salmon burger and the messy but divine grilled ratatouille sandwich. Beer. 1808 E. Cesar Chavez (512-457-9074). Open Mon 7 a.m.-3 p.m., Tue-Fri 7-10, Sat 8-10. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W+)
CAFE CAPRICE
"Dinner's at our house"--a more apt motto would be hard to imagine for this understated bistro. We dined on spicy, remarkably tender ancho-garlic shrimp, and a friend had a generous roasted chicken breast resting in a lemony saffron jus and sprinkled with slivers of fried green onion. Beer & wine. 900 W. 10th (522-477-5576). Dinner Tue-Sun 6-10. Closed Mon. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
* DRISKILL GRILL
Right now chef David Bull is creating the best fare in the city. Oven-roasted veal tenderloin? Marvelous. Charred beef tenderloin? Wonderfully crunchy outside yet velvety and pink inside. Faultless service and little touches like a handmade Belgian chocolate truffle after dessert (which was a fabulously light tiramisu cannoli) impressed. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
GREEN MESQUITE BARBEQUE AND MORE
(Update) "And more" indeed. Even the reduced-carb craze makes itself felt on the extensive menu at this uber-casual establishment (see: lowcarb jambalaya). But we stuck with what felt right for a vinyl-booth, checkerboard-floor joint: barbecue. Smoky brisket, turkey, moist chicken, mustardy potato salad, and pintos, plus the fixings (white bread, onions, and pickles), fit the bill nicely. Beer & wine. 1400 Barton Springs Rd (512-479-0485). Open 7 days 11-10. Call for other location. Cr. $ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
A menu that sports boar and rattlesnake and plates that are adorned with exotic-looking flowers--this is what we've come to expect from this paragon of fine dining. A beautiful grilled king salmon filet was paired with dill gnocchi in a buttery broth; it was heavenly. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W)
** JEFFREY'S
One of the quieter restaurants in town, this oasis of unstuffy sophistication is always exceedingly pleasant. A generous ribeye with blue cheese atop herb risotto was decadence personified and the peppered ahi tuna steak a gorgeous expression of deft technique. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (Tasting menus $55-$65.) (W)With assistance.
ROARING FORK
Inside owner Robert McGrath's cozy Western den, fall was in the air as we saddled up to a delicious, warm-you-to-the-core kettle of green-chile pork stew served with thick, buttery flour tortillas. Bar. InterContinental Stephen F. Austin Hotel, 701 Congress Ave (512-583-0000). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. AE, DS, MC, V. $$$ (W+)
SATAY
This quiet Indonesian and Thai oasis in the middle of a strip center has opened a great little to go store next door. We opted to eat in amid the bamboo accents and feasted on the laksa noodle soup, a delicious mix of chicken, curry, ginger, and cilantro with just the right kick. Bar. 3202 W. Anderson Ln (512-467-6731). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Sat & Sun noon-5. Dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Cr. $-$$ (W)
SEOUL RESTAURANT AND D.K.'S SUSHI BAR
Peering beyond the dark glass and the neon "Sushi" sign, we reassured ourselves with the old saw about really good food and really nondescript facades. Once inside, we found an engaging room and wonderful food: salty, crunchy chicken kara age; beautifully fresh nigiri; and ethereal tempura. Beer, wine & sake. 6400 S. 1st (512-326-5807). Open Mon-Fri 11:30-9:30, Sat 4:30-9:30. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W+)
SIENA
The faint scent of burnt wood in the fireplace at this beautiful Italian restaurant was enough to transport us to a villa In Tuscany. And the food, from the hearty white-bean soup to the superb tagliatelle tossed with sun-dried tomatoes, prosciutto, and mushrooms, tasted authentic too. Bar. 6203 N. Capitol of Texas Hwy (512-349-7667). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 6-9:30, Fri & Sat 6-10, Sun 5:30-9. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
UCHI
(Update) Exhibiting a playful approach, intriguing pairings, and exquisite skill, the offerings at this jewel-toned sushi temple inspire us to empty our bank account and never look back. Our gracious server plied us with samples of sake when we couldn't choose one, and we're happy to report that our selection was a splendid accompaniment to yellowtail sashimi with diced chiles and a ponzu-shiso oil, sake-steamed mussels in a kaffir lime-miso broth, and a delightful roll of yellowfin tuna and avocado enveloped in crunchy, warm tempura bits--a masterpiece of taste, temperature, and texture. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar (512-915-4808). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
(Update) We'd been craving just about anything from this Italian restaurant in SoCo, so we opted for an early dinner on a weekday night to avoid a long wait. True to form, the stylish, ultra-cool spot began filling up about halfway through our meal. Also true to form, our meal was outstanding, from the pan-seared scallops to the ravioli di vitello (pasta pillows stuffed with veal in a tomato and basil sauce) to the grilled shrimp wrapped in prosciutto di Parma (wow!). Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
ZIN AMERICAN BISTRO AND BAR
We sat on the enclosed patio and enjoyed a glass of crisp white wine at this charming space. Seafood dominates, from the Chilean sea bass with paste (delicious while it was hot, mildly fishy after it cooled) to our hot and crunchy trout. Bar. 1601 W. 38th (512-377-5252). Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
ZOOT
(Update) With Stewart Scruggs (co-owner of Wink) back at the helm, Zeal is as good as it's ever been. Weekends buzz, but calmer weekday evenings are perfect for savoring a lovely buttermilk-dressed baby spinach salad with slivers of Asian pear, followed by tender roasted perk loin with juniper-scented salsify (just al dente) and an autumnal cranberry-maple reduction, a great combination. A new look--grays and reds--and intimate lighting make the old house glow. Beer & wine. 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Dinner Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
BURR'S COUNTRY STORE BAR-B-Q
Set just off 1-10, this pitstop for weary road warriors is both a general store (selling homemade jellies, sauces, salad dressings, and hot sauces) and a refueling station--for vittles that is. Visitors fill up on ribs and smoked chicken, with sides of jambalaya, beans, coleslaw, and potato salad. 2485 North, Vidor (409-769-2309). Open Mon-Sat 10-7. Closed Sun. Cr. $ (W)
CARLO'S
(Update) Hospitality and warmth abound at this longtime Italian restaurant. The evening's roll call of comfort food began with warm cheese bread and delicious carciofi fritti (deep-fried artichokes), a personal favorite. The second wave--a feta-dusted side salad and lightly breaded yet hearty eggplant parmigiana--didn't disappoint either. Bar. 2570 Calder, Beaumont (409-833-0108). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Cr. $$ (W)
ESTHER'S CAJUN SEAFOOD AND OYSTER BAR
(Update) Restaurant meets beach house at this casually rustic spot overlooking marshes and a marina along the Neches River. You'll be hard pressed to find better--or messier--barbecued crabs than the ones served at this oyster bar (around here, "barbecued" usually refers
to zesty seasoning and deep-frying). If you prefer to eat with a fork, we recommend the tender fried catfish with crispy fries. 7237 Rainbow Ln, Port Arthur (409-962-6268). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$ (W+)
OLD ORANGE CAFE
This one-time dairy now shines as chef-owner David Claybar's nostalgically charming care. Old snapshots add an appropriately historic touch, and the menu features entrees like Alpine chicken (grilled and covered with Swiss cheese and sauteed mushrooms) and fabulous homemade pies. Beer & wine. 914 W. Division, Orange (409 883-2233). Open Mon-Fri 8-10 & 11-2. Closed Sat & Sun. Cr. $$ (W)
Corpus Christi
CITKO'S
Ladies who lunch frequent this leaf-green, antiques-laden tearoom. Chicken salad is a big draw, but on a recent visit we opted for the chicken breast with spinach and provolone in filo dough. The dish was fine, but unfortunately the accompanying cream sauce was rather heavy. 2766 Santa Fe (361-879-0408). Open Mon-Fri 11-4 (Sat for special occasions, call). Closed Sun. Cr. $-$$ (W)
MAMMA MIA'S
(Update) At this popular and friendly downtown trattoria, the background music features operatic arias, a touch of class. The fried shrimp Parmesan--served on linguine with tomato sauce and melted Parmesan--was perfect, and we also approved of the Marsala-spiked strawberry zabaglione. Our only quibble? The sliced bread was cold. Beer & wine. 128 N. Mesquite (361-883-3773). Dinner Tue-Sat 5 p.m.-about 10:30 p.m., but call to check. Closed Sun & Mon. No Cr. $$-$$$ (W)
SMALL PLANET DELICATESSEN
We continue to be charmed by this creative deli where artwork adorns the walls and culinary works of art fill the display cases. On a recent visit we tried the Veggie Melt--grilled jalapeno cheese bread stuffed with artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted red pepper, avocado, onion, and provolone. Delicious. 3824 5. Alameda (361-855-1892). Open Mon-Fri 7:30-5, Sat 8-5. Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W)
TAQUERIA ACAPULCO
(Update) Low prices and hearty portions of satisfying Tex-Mex fare are the hallmarks of this bustling, casual restaurant with huge paintings of Latin American villages on the walls. At lunch, we had a combination plate that included fork-tender beef chunks simmered with tomato and green pepper, two tamales, plus rice and beans. A companion's fried shrimp was the bargain of the day--nine for $6.99. Beer. 5937 McArdle (361-906-2686). Open 7 days 6 a.m.-11 p.m. Cr. $ (W)
THAILAND
(Update) We love this low-key restaurant almost as much for its engaging wall hangings (mainly featuring elephants) as for its authentic Asian cuisine. California salmon sushi (sticky rice with said fish plus avocado and crabmeat) made us happy. But it was the makati--translucent noodles tossed with sauteed beef and soybeans in coconut milk--that elicited the widest smiles. Beer & wine. 5506 Saratoga Blvd at Staples (361-980-0404). Open Mon-Thur 11-2:30 & 5-9:30, Fri 11-2:30 & 5-10, Sat noon-10. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W)
Dallas
* ABACUS
The servers at Abacus take pride in their product, and no wonder. Everything at the richly paneled and upholstered venue is spectacular, from the thick chunk of satiny Hudson Valley foie gras to the intensely seasoned fried green tomatoes with lump crabmeat. Bar. 4511 McKinney Ave (214-559-3111). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
ARCODORO AND POMODORO
We feel certain that not many places offer bottarga--salted, air-dried fish roe. A dusting of the unusual delicacy graced veal medallions sauteed with shrimp, tomatoes, and Vermentino (an Italian white wine). Another good bet at this casual Italian duo is the house-made ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta. Bar. 2708 Routh (214-871-1924). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Sun-Thur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
CAFE EXPRESSO
(Update) "Keep it simple and do it right" could be Cafe Expresso's motto. Concentrating on familiar Italian dishes, this popular Park Cities bistro avoids the usual pasta cliches, serving for example savory chicken Marsala with sauteed snow peas and wild rice. Cool gazpacho, pureed to a silky smoothness, offered a crisp flavor with a whisper of cucumber. Bar (with membership). 6135 Luther Ln (214-361-6984). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:15-2. Dinner Mon-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W+)
CAFE ISTANBUL
This Turkish restaurant boasts an exotic menu full of dazzling choices. Lahmacun, a sort of pizza with ground lamb and chopped vegetables, arrived looking like an omelet, its thin crust folded in half. Red-lentil soup was a pleasant accompaniment. Beer & wine. 5450 W. Lovers Ln (214-902-0919). Open Tue-Thur 11:30-2:30 & 5-10, Fri 11:30-2:30 & 5-11, Sat 1-11, Sun 11:30-10. Closed Mon. AE, MC, V. $$ (W)
CANARY CAFE
We were amazed that humble catfish could reach such exalted heights merely by being crusted with bread crumbs. The pan-seared delicacy was accompanied by a generous bed of greens topped with artichokes and capers. Beer & wine. Village on the Parkway, 5100 Belt Line Rd (972-503-7080). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
CASA LINDA CAFETERIA
Update Deja vu overcame us as we worked down the aisle lined with portraits of presidents, and nostalgia for long-ago favorite dishes influenced our...
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