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Article Excerpt
Austin
ATHENIAN GRILL
Downtown workers have an economical new midday option The Athenian salad comes generously topped with chicken sliced from a vertical spit and tart house dressing. in the evening, the pleasant room makes an easygoing setting for the likes of tender lamb chops. Beer & wine. 705 Colorado (512-482-8988). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Closed. Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
AZUL
The casual but sophisticated menu at this groovy little East Austin coffee shop is more ambitious than the plastic forks might suggest. We were sated by the juicy salmon burger and the messy but divine grilled ratatouille sandwich. Beer. 1808 E. Cesar Chavez (512-457-9074). Open Mon 7 a.m.-3 p.m., Tue-Fri 7-10, Sat 8-10. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $ (W+)
CHINATOWN
(Update)
This tastefully decorated restaurant (situated in one of Westlake's many outdoor shopping complexes) was buzzing on a recent weekday lunch outing. Typically, the service was cordial and fast--and the food right on. Pork in garlic sauce was delicious, and beef (a little fatty) with green peppers and onions left us warm and cozy. When the weather warms up, we'll try sitting outside on the patio. Bar. 3300 Bee Caves Rd (522-327-6588). Lunch 7 days 11-2:30. Dinner 7 days 4:30-10. Cr. $$ (W+)
* DRISKILL GRILL
(Update)
Our latest excursion to chef David Bull's posh culinary wonderland explored the contrasts of sweet and savory. Exhibit 1: an appetizer of three foie gras preparations, including a lovely seared morsel sided by a rhubarb, red wine, and port jam. Exhibit 2: a terrific granita of vanilla and ruby-red-grape fruit flavored vodka served with a demitasse spoon containing a dab of salty Maytag blue cheese-eaten together they produced an amazing fusion of flavors. Exhibit 3: perfectly cooked rack of lamb with an unctuously good bone-marrow custard. For a Big Night, this is the place. Bar. Driskill Hotel, 504 Brazes (512-391-7162). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended weekends. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
GREEN MESQUITE BARBEQUE AND MORE
"And more" indeed. Even the reduced-carb craze makes itself felt on the extensive menu at this uber-casual establishment. But we stuck with what felt right for a vinyl-booth, checkerboard floor joint: smoky brisket, turkey, moist chicken, mustardy potato salad, and pintos. Beer & wine. 1400 Barton Springs Rd (512-479-0485). Open 7 days 11-10. Call for other location. Cr. $ (W+)
HOOVER'S COOKING
(Update)
If ever we wished for a superpower, it would be uncloggable arteries, better to enable a three-meal-a-day diet of Hoover's home-style cooking. But until that day comes, we'll hold tight to the memories of our last visit: crisp, batter-fried chicken-fried chicken, bowls brimming with fried okra, gooey macaroni and cheese, and bacon-and-onion-spiked green beans, and an out-of-this-world brownie, nearly the size of our head and drowning in chocolate and caramel sauces. Uncloggable Artery Man to the rescue! Bar. 2002 Manor Rd (512-479-5006). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat & Sun 9-20. DC, DS, MC, V. $-$$ (W)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
A menu that sports boar and rattlesnake and plates that are adorned with exotic-looking flowers--this is what we've come to expect from this paragon of fine dining. A beautiful grilled king salmon filet was paired with dill gnocchi in a buttery broth; it was heavenly. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W)
** JEFFREY'S
One of the quieter restaurants in town, this oasis of unstuffy sophistication is always exceedingly pleasant. A generous ribeye with blue cheese atop herb risotto was decadence personified and the peppered ahi tuna steak a gorgeous expression of deft technique. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (tasting menus $55-$65.) (W) With assistance.
POLVOS
(Update)
We had a truly exceptional meal on a recent chilly evening. A huge bowl of satisfying tortilla soup (with equally huge chunks of chicken breast) got things started off right. Cerveza-marinated fajitas (muy flavorful) arrived hot and tender, and the accompanying guacamole tasted just right on our chips. Moist red snapper a la plancha proved the highlight of the evening--well, if you don't count the fabulous people-watching on one of the funkiest, most popular patios in town. Bar. 2004 S. 1st (512-441-5446). Open Sun-Thur 7 a.m-11 p.m., Fri & Sat 7-midnight. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W)
ROARING FORK
Inside owner Robert McGrath's cozy Western den, winter was in the air as we saddled up to a delicious, warm-you-to-the-core kettle of green-chile pork stew served with thick, buttery flour tortillas. Bar. InterContinental Stephen F. Austin Hotel, 701 Congress Ave (512-583-0000). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. AE, DS, MC, V. $$$ (W+)
ROY'S
(Update)
Like the incessant "alohas" from the well meaning staff, everyone's heart is in the right place, and the soaring room is lovely. Our happiest choice was tilapia in a full-flavored lemon-ginger-soy beurre blanc. But other dishes suffered from a fate that bedevils much fusion tare (Hawaiian, in this case): shaky technique undermining imaginative ideas. A tiger-shrimp pud Thai proved flavorful but soupy, while a hazelnut-crusted mahimahi arrived undercooked. Bar. 340 E. 2nd (512-391-1500). Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-9, Tue & Wed 5:30-9:30, Thur-Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$$ (W+)
7
(Update)
Clean lines and cool, coastal colors conjure a vibe that's perfectly suited to 7's unpretentious cuisine. We enjoyed a lemony Caesar salad with tiny garlicky croutons, beautifully seared sea scallops in a lemon-thyme beurre blanc, and the piece de resistance, a wonderful whole branzino (a Mediterranean sea bass) roasted with lemon, rosemary, and thyme. A fish that was flown in from so far deserves a little respect--and got it. Beer & wine. 1716 S. Congress Ave (512-383-8877). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5:30-9. Cr. $$$ (W+)
SIENA
The faint scent of burnt wood in the fireplace at this beautiful Italian restaurant was enough to transport us to a villa in Tuscany. And the food, from the hearty white bean soup to the superb tagliatelle tossed with sun-dried tomatoes, prosciutto, and mushrooms, tasted authentic too Bar. 6203 N. Capitol of Texas Hwy (512-349-7667). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 6-9:30, Fri & Sat 6-10, Sun 5:30-9. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
TAM DELI AND CAFE
(Update)
A bit flustered upon arrival (we needed three drive-bys before finally spotting the tucked-away Vietnamese spot), we wore soon calmed by the simply adorned, well-lit space, gracious service, reasonable prices, and a menu that required multiple page turns for full perusal. Shredded-yam-and-shrimp cakes were mote ethereal texture than taste, but the entrees that followed--garlic-walloped shrimp on skewers (a house specialty) and a steamed rice wrap filled with pork and shredded lettuce--packed plenty of flavor. 8222 N. Lamar (512-834-6458). Open Sun, Mon & Wed-Sat 10-8. Closed Tue. MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
UCHI
Exhibiting a playful approach, intriguing pairings, and exquisite skill, the offerings at this jewel toned sushi temple inspire us to empty our bank account and never look back. Worth a broken bank: sake-steamed mussels in a kaffir lime-miso broth and a delightful roll of yellow-fin tuna and avocado enveloped in crunchy, warm tempura bits. Beer, wine & sake. 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
We'd been craving just about anything from this stylish Italian restaurant in SoCo, so we opted for an early dinner on a weekday night to avoid a long wait. True to form, our meal was outstanding, from the pan-seared scallops to the ravioli di vitello (pasta pillows stuffed with veal in a tomato and basil sauce). Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
ZOOT
With Stewart Scruggs (co-owner of Wink) back at the helm, Zoot is as good as it's ever been. Weekends buzz, but calmer weekday evenings are perfect for savoring a lovely buttermilk-dressed baby spinach salad with slivers of Asian pear, followed by tender roasted pork loin with an autumnal cranberry-maple reduction. Intimate lighting makes the old house glow. Beer & wine. 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Dinner Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri-Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$-$$$ (W+)
Small, New, or Offbeat
ELSI'S
Elsi's reopened too late to make our big Mexican food story (see page 136). But its new location--with apricot wails and a spiffy, high-tech look--is a great improvement over the old digs, and the excellent food hasn't changed one iota. The chicken flautas are as crisp as ever, the enchiladas--with an almost fluffy chipotle sauce--as soulful and savory. While you're at it, give the Salvadoran dishes a whirl. 5601 Burnet Rd (512-454-0747). Open Sun-Thur 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 7-11. MC, V. $-$$ (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
BURR'S COUNTRY STORE BAR-B-Q
Set just off I-10, this pit stop for weary road warriors is both a general store (selling homemade jellies, sauces, salad dressings, and hot sauces) and a refueling station--for vittles, that is. Visitors fill up on ribs and smoked chicken, with sides of jambalaya, beans, coleslaw, and potato salad. 2485 North, Vidor (409-769-2309). Open Mon-Sat 10-7. Closed Sun. Cr. $ (W)
CARLO'S
Hospitality and warmth abound at this longtime Italian restaurant. The evening's roll call of comfort food began with warm cheese bread and delicious carciofi fritti (deep fried artichokes), a personal favorite. The second wave lightly breaded yet hearty eggplant parmigiana--didn't disappoint either. Bar. 2570 Calder, Beaumont (409-833-0108). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Cr. $$ (W)
ESTHER'S CAJUN SEAFOOD AND OYSTER BAR
Restaurant meets beach house at this casually rustic spot. You'll be hard pressed to find better--or messier--barbecued crabs than the ones served at this oyster bar. If you prefer to eat with a fork, we recommend the tender fried catfish. 7237 Rainbow Ln, Port Arthur (409-962-6268). Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10. Reservations recommended. Cr. $$ (W+)
OLD ORANGE CAFE
This one-time dairy now shines as chef owner David Claybar's nostalgically charming cafe. Old snapshots add an appropriately historic touch, and the menu features entrees like Alpine chicken (grilled and covered with Swiss cheese and sauteed mushrooms) and fabulous homemade pies. Beer & wine. 914 W. Division, Orange (409-883-2233). Open Mon-Fri 8-10 & 11-2. Closed Sat & Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W)
WILLY RAY'S BAR-B-Q CO.
(Update)
With Texas hospitality, owners Milly and Mike Dougay have been serving their award-winning Barbecue for more than 10 years. The smoked brisket is flavorful, the pork ribs tender, and the sausage links supremo. Carrot souffle--a sweet yet savory blend of carrots and sweet potatoes--is a must-try, as is a stop at the non-traditional buffet, where friendly servers refill your order for you. Beer & wine. 145 I-10N, Beaumont (409-832-7770). Open 7 days 11-9. Cr. $ (W+)
Corpus Christi
CITKO'S
Ladies who lunch frequent this leaf-green, antiques-laden tearoom. Chicken salad is a big draw, but on a recent visit we opted for the chicken breast with spinach and provolone in filo dough. The dish was fine, but unfortunately the accompanying cream sauce was rather heavy. 2766 Santa Fe (361-879-0408). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-4 (Sat for special occasions, call). Closed Sun. Cr. $-$$ (W)
GAETANO'S RISTORANTE
(Update)
A ceiling-high mural of a cobblestone street scene in an Italian village sets the right note at this newly opened restaurant. We eagerly attacked our spinach salad (with red onion and mushrooms) dressed with a sweet, warm bacon vinaigrette. The highlight or the evening, though, was creating our own pasta entree. We chose penne with pancetta, salmon, mushrooms, and artichoke hearts, all tossed in a decadent Alfredo sauce. Cannoli made for a light ending. Bar. 1002 Santa Fe (361-884-9508). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Wed-Sat 5:30-9:30. Closed Sun. Cr. $$ (W)
HU DAT NOODLE HOUSE
(Update)
This family owned Vietnamese restaurant has moved to larger quarters, but the decor is still minimal--bare wooden tables in a warehouse like space--and the food is still delicious. Our favorite is the special combination vermicelli salad bowl: grilled beef and shrimp served with two crisp egg rolls, lettuce, carrot, cucumber, vermicelli noodles, and crushed peanuts, all for $6.95. Pho ga (Vietnamese chicken soup) tastes fine too. BYOB. 6418 S. Staples (361-906-1111). Open Mon-Fri 10:30-2:30 & 5-9, Sat 10:30-9. Closed Sun. Cr. $ (W)
MAMMA MIA'S
At this popular and friendly downtown trattoria, the background music features operatic arias, a touch of class. The fried shrimp Parmesan--served on linguine with tomato sauce and melted Parmesan--was perfect, and we also approved of the Marsala-spiked strawberry zabaglione. Beer & wine. 128 N. Mesquite (361-883-3773). Dinner Tue-Sat 5-10:30 (call; closing time varies). Closed Sun & Mon. No Cr. $$-$$$ (W)
TAQUERIA ACAPULCO
Low prices and hearty portions of satisfying Tex-Mex fare are the hallmarks of this bustling, casual restaurant with huge paintings of Latin American towns on the walls. At lunch, we had a combination plate that included fork-tender beef chunks simmered with tomato and green pepper, two tamales, plus rice and beans. Beer. 5937 McArdle (361-906-2686). Open 7 days 6 a.m.-11 p.m. Cr. $ (W)
THAILAND
We love this low-key restaurant almost as much for its engaging wall hangings (mainly featuring elephants) as for its authentic Asian cuisine. California salmon sushi made us happy. But it was the makati--translucent noodles tossed with sauteed beef and soybeans in coconut milk--that elicited the widest smiles. Beer & wine. 5506 Saratoga Blvd at Staples (361-980-0404). Open Mon-Thur 11-2:30 & 5-9:30, Fri 11-2:30 & 5-10, Sat noon-10. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$ (W)
Dallas
* ABACUS
(Update)
Surrounded by many happy diners in a beautiful, high-energy room, we started with a pricey appetizer of a diver scallop (yes, just one) with a glaze of basil-truffle oil and a fingerling potato split into four pieces. Not feeling stuffed, needless to say, we sampled every last one of the sweet and savory breads offered, which were a real treat. Fortunately, we still had room for two flavorful hunks of seared Nova Scotia halibut paired with basil gnocchi, grilled asparagus, and jumbo lump crab. Bar. 4511 McKinney Ave (214-559-3111). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11 Closed Sun. Cr. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
AURORA
(Update)
Allow us to rave--loving touches, intelligent cuisine, and elegant appointments make Aurora truly special; even the bread and butter--cranberry-pistachio bread and cigar-size baguettes with English goat's milk butter--are unique. For a light lunch, the Jonah crab salad was beautiful and flavorful, with heirloom tomatoes, hearts of palm, and amaranth sprouts. Not a pang of guilt crossed our minds as we indulged in a dessert of thin shavings of pineapple atop diced mango swimming in a vanilla bouillon. Bar. 4216 Oak Lawn Ave (214-528-9400). Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. AE, DS, MC, V. $$$$ (W+)
CAFE EXPRESSO
"Keep it simple and do it right" could be...
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