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Article Excerpt
Policies and Definitions
The Restaurant Guide is a service to our leaders. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identity is kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a Texas Monthly restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to Restaurant Guide, Texas Monthly, Box 1569, Austin 78767.
Stat Policy, Credit Cards, and Price Scale
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designates an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, tax, and tip. Inexpensive: less than $10. Moderate: $10-$25. Expensive: $25-$40, Very expensive: more than $40.
Wheelchair Accessibility
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and all major facilities are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
(No symbol) This place is not accessible.
Austin
Asti Trattoria 408 E. 43rd (512-451-218). A sliver of toast topped with green tomato and goat cheese portended good things to come at this sleek but warm neighborhood hangout. The spicy seafood risotto was a heavenly mound of saffron-perfumed rice studded with fresh mussels and fat shrimp. Bar. Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
BBQ World Headquarters 6701 Burnet Rd (512-323-9112). Expect delectable oak smoked barbecue: tender sliced brisket (Certified Angus, mind you), spicy sausage, and baby back pork ribs whose meat falls right off the bone. Listening to country radio, we enjoyed our 'cue with icy Big Reds and potato salad at a picnic table outside. BYOB. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-4. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
Fonda San Miguel 2330 W. North Loop Bird (512-459-4121). What a jewel this little piece of Mexico is--happy hour in its tropical courtyard erases the cares of the world. Start with the tart, sassy salad of marinated nopalitos, then follow it with the good duck breast in a smooth roasted-poblano sauce or the terrific crab enchiladas suizas. Bar. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri-Sat 5:30-10:30. Sun brunch 11-2. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
Guero's Taco Bar 1412 S. Congress Ave (512-447-7688). The food can be hit-or-miss, but we just focus on what we like: real margaritas, fiery salsas, the airy former-feedstore locale. We gobbled up the burrito especial: a flour tortilla filled with beans and cheese and topped with chile con queso. Bar. Open Sun 8 a.m.-11 p.m., Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat 8 a.m.-11 p.m. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
* Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Sheets of rain couldn't dampen the mood inside this cozy ranch house. Our mood actually grew sunny with the arrival of our entrees: hot-and-crunchy ruby trout and beef tenderloin with a lobster medaillon. Brilliant. Bar. Dinner Sun-Fri 6-9, Sat 530-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Expensive to very expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] ** Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). A recent visit to our old friend left us ambivalent. An earthy cacciotta-and-mushroom-stuffed Anaheim chile brightened with nectarine butter wasn't as good as its inspired components would suggest. Neither was the Alaskan halibut nestled in linguine with champagne grapes and cucumber creme fraiche. Again, the preparation was flawless (the pasta homemade, the fish perfectly cooked), but the parts were more promising than the sadly dull whole. But we savored the stalwart beet tenderloin with caramelized-onion horseradish sauce and enjoyed the simple, always welcoming setting. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $38 & $60). Cr. (W) With assistance.
Louie's 106 106 E. 6th (512-476-2010). Wondering where to find the finest Cobb salad in town? It's here: a layer of shredded, juicy rotisserie chicken, then an ample scattering of feta, cucumber, and kalamata olives, and finally, an underpinning of field greens in balsamic vinaigrette. Excellent. At night, have a Mediterranean-inflected entree in the marble-floored room. Bar. Open Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri 11:30-11, Sat 6-11. Moderate to expensive Cr. (W+)
Malaga 208 W. 4th (512-236-8020). Exhibiting a sophistication lacking in some of its flashier neighbors, this tapas bar has always felt a bit like an oasis in the Warehouse District. It's also one of the only places in the city serving Spanish Cuisine. Try the samcocho con mojo verde, tangy fried fish served with cilantro salsa, and the empanadas Cadiz stuffed with chicken, garlic, and onion. Extensive wine list. Bar. Dinner Men-Wed 5-midnight, Thur-Sat 5-2. Closed Sun. Upper moderate. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Roy's 340 E. 2nd (512-391-1500). Feeling like we were in the television show The Restaurant, we grabbed a perch at the counter fronting the streamlined kitchen. Unlike the star of that series, though, the stylish Roy's has its act together. Our appetizer plate (on the $30 three-course prix fixe dinner) consisted mainly of fix-ahead morsels like a pork dumpling and a good-enough glazed rib. But the best was yet to come: seared ahi tuna with beurre blanc and (hot!) mustard, and a divine molten chocolate cake with raspberry coulis. If this is "Hawaiian fusion," we like it. Bar. Dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended Expensive. Cr. (W+)
South Congress Cafe 1600 S. Congress Ave (512-447-3905). Funky SoCo, meet the trendy new kid on the block. The South Congress Care offers an upscale yet affordable medley of dishes, all served up on mod pastel plates. We started with the chipotle shrimp quesadillas, followed by a spunky mesquite-grilled pork loin sided by out-of-this-world garlic-potato enchiladas. Bar (limited menu 3-5). Dinner 7 days 5-10. Brunch Sat & Sun 10-2. Moderate to lower expensive. Cr. (W+)
T & S Seafood Restaurant 10014 N. Lamar Blvd, north of Rutland (512-339-8434). Atmosphere: Zero. Service: All in the family (or mostly so). Food: Extremely fine. The star of our last outing was steamed chicken with ginger and scallions and a delicious ginger-garlic dipping oil. Beer & wine. Lunch 7 days 11-2:30. Dinner Sun & Mon 5-1, Tue 5-10, Wed-Sat 5-1. Moderate to lower expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Uchi 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). This stylish sushi restaurant (picture subdued colors up front, red wallpaper in back, sleek furniture, and a water garden) is the perfect setting for an evening of gastronomic indulgence. Our knowledgeable server guided us well, from Hama Chili--five pieces of yellowtail sashimi with ponzu--to yakitori selections like asparagus and bacon and the outrageously fatty (but delicious) Wagyu beef with garlic. Our two & la carte pieces of luscious chutoro sushi--medium fatty tuna from the upper belly--blew everything else away. Beer, wine & sake. Dinner Mon--Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. AE, MC, V. (W+)
Zoot 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Zoot's tip-top staff treats even the most difficult customer like royalty. Complementing the service on our visit was the equally impressive food, specifically pan-roasted halibut atop a flavorful mango-and-cucumber relish. The cozy cottage has been nicely updated. Bar. Dinner Sun 5:30-10, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Hao Hao 1901 W. William Cannon (512-477-8121). Ahhh, the gems you find tucked away in a strip mall. This one--fairly nondescript inside and out--hides out in South Austin. Its charm is an extensive menu of traditional Chinese and Vietnamese dishes. We focused on the latter with spring rolls, fat with lettuce, rice noodles, and shrimp and nicely paired with a peanut dipping sauce. We also loved hot-and-sour chicken soup, a seemingly bottomless bowl of okra, cabbage, tomatoes, celery, pineapple, jelapenos, and basil in a sweet broth. Open Sun noon-9, Mon-Fri 11-2:30 & 5-9:30, Sat noon-9. Inexpensive to moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Little Mexico 2304 S. 1st (512-462-2188). A friend told us about this little spot in South Austin, where family atmosphere collides with funky charm (we like the results). If you don't speak Spanish, no worries: Many of the servers are bilingual. On a recent Saturday morning, we nibbled on chips and hot salsa before our machacado con huevo--dried beef scrambled with egg, onion, tomato, and jalapeno--arrived hot and delicioso. Next time, we'll go for lunch and sample some enchiladas or tacos. Bar. Open Sun 7 a.m. 9 p.m., Mon-Sat 7-10. Inexpensive. DS, MC, V. (W+)
Wild Ride Saloon 12013 U.S. Hwy 290W (512-288-0808). Our you-won't-find-a-Resistol-among-us crew expected little from a joint named the Wild Ride Saloon. (You can bet a few highly sarcastic yeehaw's were uttered). But we were singing a different tune by the end of the evening. This honky tonk serves up some fine glorified bar food--burgers, chicken-fried steaks, quesadillas. Our friend ranked the bacon-and-Swiss burger among her top three--ever. And the ultra-batter-dipped fries--well, they were worth increasing our mosey to a full-fledged jog as we headed off into the sunset. Bar. Open 7 days 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Inexpensive to moderate. MC, V. (W)
Zax 312 Barton Springs Rd (512-481-0100). Big sunny room, a single gerbera daisy on each table--Zax exudes simplicity, which, unfortunately, extends to the kitchen. It's a quintessential American cafe; one might be wise to stick with their burgers and pizzas. Two of the daily specials, herb-roasted chicken alongside fettuccine and a scallop dish with sun-dried tomatoes and paste cream sauce, were disappointingly plain, moreover, a steamed-mussel appetizer made its highly anticipated debut only on the bill. We were pleased, however, with the friendly staff, superb blueberry cheesecake, and notable craft-beer selection. Bar. Open Mon-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
Al-T's Seafood and Steakhouse Texas Hwy 124 & Spur 5, Winnie (400-296-9818). The menu at the well-known cajun roadhouse ran our decision making ability through the ringer. Crawfish, boudin (made-on-site), shrimp, oysters, frogs' legs, quail--so many choices, so little time. We finally settled on an appetizer of bite-size boudin nuggets and kicked-up crabmeat au gratin casserole. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 6 a.m. 10 p.m., Fri & Sat 6 a.m.-11 p.m. Moderate. Cr. (W)
Carla's Cupboard 2839 Nall, Port Neches (409-729-1150). Old Mother Hubbard didn't do much for the reputation of cupboards, but Carla has nothing to worry about. Hers is brimming with pastries, pies, sandwiches, and off-the grill fare. The sweets--including fabulous Key lime pie and a creamy mango smoothie--were heavenly. Open Mon-Fri 6-6, Sat 7-5. Closed Sun. Cr. (W)
Channel Inn 7960 Memorial Blvd, Port Arthur (409-727-8222). To satisfy any and all cravings for fish and other swimming critters--and we do mean any, including frog and alligator--this is your place. Spicy blackened redfish satisfied, as did the stuffed-shrimp platter, even though the shrimp tasted mainly of filling. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Lunch Counter 7771 9th Ave, Port Arthur (409-729-9800) The location may be new--a strip-mall spot shared with Primo's--but the community-friendly vibe and reasonable prices remain unchanged. We opted for breakfast fare--french toast made with cinnamon raisin bread--but hot lunches and homemade pies are also specialties Open Sun 7-2, Mon-Sat 5-2. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
Spindletop 290 Crockett, Beaumont (409-833-9688). Please excuse the pun, but a recent visit to the hip, high-ceilinged place left us (cue cymbals) gushing. Baked spinach dip was a hit, and the worldly chicken trio--three breasts prepared with three influences (Southwest, Hawaiian, and Tuscan) all atop of a bed of rice--earned its share of raves. Airy tiramisu "topped" the meal off nicely. Bar. Open Sun 11-5, Mon & Tue 11-9, Wed & Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] Texas Star Bar and Grill 296 Crockett, above Spindletop, Beaumont (409-833-0276.) The wraparound balcony of this convivial spot provides the perfect opportunity to kick back with a beer on a weekend evening and watch the Crockett Street Entertainment District come to life. Graze on starters such as the baked spinach dip (a must), chilled boiled Gulf shrimp, or spicy hot wings. A burger or prime rib sandwich is just the thing after a round of billiards or shuffleboard. Bar. Open Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Sat 4 p.m.-2 a.m. Closed Sun. Inexpensive AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Corpus Christi
Blue Swan in the 600 Building, 800 Leopard (361-887-7662). At this no-nonsense deli we liked the muffuletta, hearty portions of sliced ham and salami, provolone, and olive dressing on freshly baked onion bread. A companion's Reuben was equally satisfying, featuring plenty of corned beef, melted Swiss, sauerkraut, and creamy Russian dressing on rye. Open Mon-Fri 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Closed Sat & Sun, Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
Imperial Cafe 5902 S. Staples (361-980-1423). A trendy Asian eatery, the Imperial Cafe offers more than 100 different sushi rolls (we prefer the Rainbow Roll--cucumber and crab inside with flesh tuna, salmon, and avocado outside). The house special of salmon-mango curry proved a delightful combination of hot and cold and spicy and sweet. Crimson walls, white tablecloths, and a huge aquarium make for a smart look. Beer & wine. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:15. Dinner Mon-Thur 6-9:30, Fri & Sat 6-9:45 Closed Sun. Moderate, Cr. (W+)
Snoopy's Pier 13313 S. Padre Island Dr (361-949-8815). Cap off a day at the beach with a visit to the open-air waterfront eatery decked out with fishing rods and painted life preservers. Crispy breaded shrimp, fried fresh fish, and crabmeat stuffed jalapenos (also fried) are among our top picks. We'll vouch for the tasty burgers too. Beer & wine. Open 7 days 11-10. Inexpensive to moderate No. Cr. (W)
Tokyo Den 5625 S. Padre Island Dr (361-992-9611). We love this soothing little Japanese restaurant, with its fresh food and relaxing ambience (including a trickling fountain at the entrance). It's also one of the best lunchtime bargains in town: For $6.50, you can get a bowl of raise soup, a teriyaki steak or chicken breast, steamed rice, tossed salad, fried pork dumplings, and a sushi roll. Beer & wine. Open Sun 5-9:30, Mon-Thur 11:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-10:30. Inexpensive to moderate. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Agua Java 309 N. Water (361-882-0866). Blow off those Seattle-based coffeehouses and head to the charming coffee bar owned by local restaurateur Brad Lomax. We can vouch for the Java specialties, especially the Latte Lomaximo--espresso with honey, vanilla, and fresh whipped cream. If you're after more than a caffeine fix, try a sausage-and-cheese kolache. For lunch we recommend the Mexicali--roast beef, jack cheese, green chiles, and chipotle mayonnaise on grilled homemade bread. Coffee sacks along the walls and...
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