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Article Excerpt
Policies and Definitions
The Restaurant Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identity is kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a Texas Monthly restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to Restaurant Guide, Texas Monthly, Box 1569, Austin 78767.
Star Policy, Credit Cards, and Price Scale
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, tax, and tip. Inexpensive: less than $10. Moderate: $10-$25, Expensive: $25-$40. Very extensive: more than $40.
Wheelchair Accessibility
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and all major facilities are accessible.
(W) Carl ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
(No symbol) This place is not accessible.
Austin
Asti Trattoria 408 E. 43rd (512-451-1218). A sliver of toast topped with green tomato and goat cheese portended good things to come at this sleek but warm neighborhood hangout. The spicy seafood risotto was a heavenly mound of saffron-perfumed rice studded with fresh mussels and fat shrimp. Bar. Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11,Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
Fonda San Miguel 2330 W. North Loop Blvd (512-459-4121). What a jewel this little piece of Mexico is--happy hour in its tropical courtyard erases the cares of the world Start with the tart. sassy salad of marinated nopalitos, then follow it with the good duck breast in a smooth roasted poblano sauce or the terrific crab enchiladas suizas. Bar Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri-Sat 5:30-10:30. Sun brunch 11-2. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
Guero's Taco Bar 1412 S. Congress Ave (512-447-7688). The food can be hit-or-miss, but we just focus on what we like: real margaritas, fiery salsas, the airy former-feedstore locale. We gobbled up the burrito especial: a flour tortilla filled with beans and cheese and topped with chile con queso. Bar. Open Sun 8 a.m.-11 p.m., Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat 8-11. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
* Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Sheets of rain couldn't dampen the mood inside this cozy ranch house. Our disposition actually grew sunny with the arrival of our entrees: hot-and-crunchy ruby trout and beef tenderloin with a lobster medaillon. Brilliant. Bar. Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends Expensive to very expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
** Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). A recent visit to our old friend left us ambivalent. Even though well prepared, an earthy caciotta-and-mushroom-stuffed Anaheim chile brightened with nectarine butter wasn't as good as its inspired components would suggest. But we savored the stalwart beef tenderloin with caramelized-onion horseradish sauce. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $38 & $60). Cr. (W) With assistance.
Louie's 106 106 E. 6th (512-476-2010). Wondering where to find the finest Cobb salad in town? It's here: a layer of shredded, juicy rotisserie chicken, then an ample sca6erFng of fete, cucumber, and kalamata olives, and finally, an underpinning of field greens in balsamic vinaigrette. Excellent. At night, have a Mediterranean-inflected entree in the marble-floored room. Bar Open Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri 11:30-11, Sat 6-11. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
UPDATE Ranch 616 616 Nueces (512-479-7616). The waiting line on a recent fall afternoon was almost out the door, so we dined at the bar, which was a perfect perch for people-watching. With its Mexican-esque decor, the Ranch was packed with both lawyer-looking types and folks with multiple tattoos. The pork-and-mushroom enchiladas were sublime, but the rest of our meal didn't rate so high: The barbecue sauce on our brisket quesadillas tasted like it came from a bottle, and our otherwise fabulous blueberry tart had a burned taste. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Sun-Wed 5-10, Thur-Sat 5:30-11. Upper moderate to expensive Cr. (W+)
Roy's 349 E. 2nd (512-391-1500). We grabbed a seat at the counter fronting the streamlined kitchen, which definitely has its act together. Our appetizer plate (on the $30 three-course prix fixe dinner) consisted mainly of fix-ahead morsels like a pork dumpling and a good-enough glazed rib. But the best was yet to come: seared ahi tuna and a super individual chocolate lava cake. If this is "Hawaiian fusion," we like it. Bar. Dinner Sun 5:30-9, Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended Expensive. Cr. (W+)
UPDATE Stubb's Bar-B-Q 801 Red River (512-480-8341) Full disclosure: Many past visits to this rough-hewn venue have been solely for the music (the Red headed Stranger being the most memorable). But this time we ventured to Stubb's for the grub and were pleased to find that the talent isn't Just on the stage. To homey dishes like moist chicken, spicy sausage, and creamy sorrano-pepper-cheese spinach, we said "Bravo!" But as for the dry brisket, well, we weren't begging for an encore. Bar. Open Sun 11-9, Tue & Wed 11-10, Thur-Sat 11-11. Sun brunch 11-2:30 ($14.95). Closed Mon. Moderate. Cr. (W)
T&S Seafood Restaurant 10014 N. Lamer Blvd, north of Rutland (512-339-8434). Atmosphere: Zero. Service: All in the family (or mostly so). Food: Extremely fine. The star of our last outing was steamed chicken with ginger and scallions and a delicious ginger-garlic dipping oil. Beer & wine. Lunch 7 days 11-2:30. Dinner Sun & Men 5-1, Tue 5-10, Wed-Sat 5-1. Moderate to lower expensive. Cr. (W+)
Uchi 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). This stylish sushi restaurant (picture subdued colors, sleek furniture, and a water garden) is the perfect setting for an evening of gastronomic indulgence. Our server guided us well, from Hama Chile--five pieces of yellowtail sashimi with ponzu--to yakitori selections like asparagus and bacon and the outrageously fatty (but delicious) Wagyu beef with garlic. Beer, wine & sake. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. AE, MC, V. (W+)
Zoot 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Zoot's tip-top staff treats even the most difficult customer like royalty. Complementing the service on our visit was the equally impressive food, specifically pan-roasted halibut atop a flavorful mango-and-cucumber relish The cozy cottage has been nicely updated. Beer & wine Dinner Sun 5:30-10, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
UPDATE Bee Cave Bistro 11715 Bee Caves Rd, across from Lake Pointe Elementary School (512-263-1950) There's no sign, so look for the placard in the window that says "Lunch." (If you are coming from downtown Austin, it's on the left just before Texas Hwy 71.) But once inside this quaint bistro, you'll feel right at home Lunch options range from burgers and a fine chicken-salad sandwich (with nuts, grape halves, and chunks of meat) to turkey wraps and salads--we liked the light Southwestern Caesar with a dollop of guacamole. The slice of three layer chocolate cake was so-so, but we'll be back to try dinner. Bar. Open Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-9:30. Sun brunch 10-3. Closed Men Moderate AB, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Moonshine 303 Red River (512-236-9599). Mason jar water glasses. A logo that looks like something you'd see at Sturgis. Heck, one half-expects to find a mechanical bull somewhere inside this Southern-style venue. Seems an ignominious end for Emilio's former home, but hang on, pardner. The decor's actually fairly tame, and the food's not half bad. There were some definite misses (off-tasting calamari, nicely cooked but flavorless beef tenderloin) but some hits too, like rainbow trout with chile-sage butter. And the servers were helpful, particularly the sommelier (yes, the semmelier). Bar. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-1. Closed Sun. Moderate Cr. (W+)
Texas Music Cafe 1321 S. Congress (512-445-4441). Under the big trees, with a few stars twinkling overhead, surprisingly ambitious food--gussied-up Texas homestyle--is emerging from the Cafe's open kitchen. This is Austin, so you may see your waitress on stage singing a song with the band. Start with crunchy, sweet fried green tomatoes served with guanamole and a fresh tomato relish--a nice harmony of textures and flavors Homie's Meatloaf with a red-wine sauce was satisfying and generous enough for two. The true star of the plate, though, was lightly battered fried okra. We enjoyed the juicy pork chop, but we thought the Granny Smith apple chutney on top needed a little mellowing as does the spare, stark dining room The live music and late hours should draw a crowd from the nearby Continental Club. Bar (light fare until 4 a.m.) Open Sun 10-11, Tue-Fri 11-11, Sat 10-11. Closed Mon. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
AI-T's Seafood and Steakhouse Texas Hwy 124 & Spur 5, Winnie (409-296-9818). The menu at the well-known cajun roadhouse ran our decision-making ability through the ringer. Crawfish, boudin (made on-site), shrimp, oysters, frogs' legs--so many choices, so little time. We finally settled on an appetizer of bite-size boudin nuggets and kicked-up crabmeat au gratin casserole. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 6 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 6 a.m.-11 p.m. Moderate. Cr. (W)
Channel Inn 7960 Memorial Blvd, Fort Arthur (409-727-8222). To satisfy any and all cravings for fish and other swimming critters--and we do mean any, including frog and alligator--this is your place. Spicy blackened redfish satisfied, as did the stuffed-shrimp platter, even though the shrimp tasted mainly of filling. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
UPDATE JB's BBQ 5750 Hwy 90 at I-1.0W, Orange (409-886-9823). For more than 30 years, JB's has served up no-frills barbecue, the way it should be. Pick your meat and two sides and move down the line. The brisket is tender, the juicy rib meat falls off the bone, and the smoked boudin is delightful. Sides include the classics plus dirty rice, and while the sauce is on the spicy side, it complements the oak-smoked meat. BYOB. Open Tue-Sat 11-8. Closed Sun & Mon. Inexpensive. AE, MC, V. (W)
UPDATE Logon Cafe 3805 Calder Avenue, Beaumont (499-833-6950). This trendy Internet cafe--with new-age decor and a gracious staff--offers a caffeine-charged trip to the World Wide Web. Along the way, fuel up on hearty homemade soups and sandwiches. We sampled the chicken noodle soup and a chicken pita, the last a honey-wheat pocket stuffed with grilled chicken, sprouts, and tomato and topped Off with ranch dressing. For our java fix, we tried a house specialty, the Chocolate Monkey (coffee hyped with banana and chocolate flavorings). Beer & wine. Open Mon-Thur 9-11, Fri 9 a.m.-12:30 a.m., Sat 10-12:30 Closed Sun. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+) Lunch Counter 7771 9th Ave, Port Arthur (409-729-9800). The location may be new--a step-mall spot shared with Primo's--but the community-friendly vibe and reasonable prices remain unchanged We opted for breakfast fare--french toast made with cinnamon raisin bread--but promised to come back and check out the hot lunches and homemade pies. Open Sun 7-2, Mon-Sat 5-2 & 4:30-10. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
Texas Star Bar and Grill 296 Crockett, above Spindletop, Beaumont (409-833-0276). This wraparound balcony spot provides the perfect opportunity to kick back with a beer and watch the Crockett Street Entertainment District come to life. Graze on starters such as the baked spinach dip or spicy hot wings. A burger or prime rib sandwich is just the thing after a round of billiards. Bar. Open Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Sat 4-2. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Corpus Christi
Agua Java 309 N. Water (361-882 0865). Blow off these Seattle-based coffeehouses and head to the charming coffee bar owned by local restaurateur Brad Lomax. We can vouch for the java specialties, especially the Latte Lomaximo--espresso with honey, vanilla, and fresh whipped cream. If you're after more than a caffeine fix, try the Mexicali--roast beef, jack cheese, green chiles, and chipotle mayonnaise on grilled homemade bread. Open Sun 7-9, Mon-Thur 6:30-9, Fri 6:30-10, Sat 7-10. Moderate AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
La Playa Mexican Cafe 7118 S. Padre Island Dr (361-980-3991). This popular Mexican restaurant stands out from the crowd. The hot pink decor certainty has something to do with it, but so does the food. A companion's San Lucas snapper was tender and tasty, served with a tomato-based sauce that added a touch of spice. But we were enamored with the famous bread crumb-crusted fried avocado, which came shifted with chicken and cheese. Bar. Open 7 days 11-10. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
UPDATE Luciano's 1821 S. Alameda (361-882-3191). A recent meal at this family-owned Italian restaurant began with thinly sliced ciabatta bread with chunks of asiago and Gorgonzola cheeses. We liked our entree of chicken parmigiano--breaded breast meat topped with mozzarella and thick tomato sauce--even though it was a tad bland. Beer & wine. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:15-1:45. Dinner Mon-Sat 5:15-9:45. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W)
Snoopy's Pier 13313 S. Padre Island Dr (361-949-8815). Cap off a day at the beach with a visit to this open-air waterfront eatery decked out with fishing rods and painted life preservers. Crisp breaded shrimp, fried fresh fish, and crabmeat-stuffed japapenos (also tried) are among our top picks. We'll vouch for the tasty burgers too. Beer & wine. Open 7 days 11-10. Inexpensive to moderate. No Cr. (W)
UPDATE Vietnam 701 N. Water (361-853-2682). Vietnam is all about details, from the painted oriental screens to the translucent wrappers on the chunky spring rolls (the best in the city). Charcoal-grilled slices of pork tenderloin and a sunny-side-up egg atop jasmine nee with lettuce, tomato, and cucumber made for a deliciously light lunch. A companion's chicken curry was pleasantly spicy. Bar. Lunch Tue-Fri 11-2. Dinner Sun 5-10:30, Tue-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Closed Mon. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
D. Noodle House Pharaoh Plaza, 4701 Ayers (361-885-6096). Locals flock to this Vietnamese restaurant owned by the brother of Dallas Cowboys linebacker Dat Nguyen (his posters adorn the walls). Ignore the strip-center atmosphere and focus on the food. We especially like the house favorite, bun dac biet--a generous portion of tender charcoal-grilled beef and shrimp atop vermicelli and vegetables--and its $5.95 price tag. The lo-mein (with chicken, beef, or shrimp) is good too. Open Mon-Sat 10:30-8. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Dallas
UPDATE Allgood Cafe 2934 Main at...
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