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Article Excerpt
Policies and Definitions
The Restaurant Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a Listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identity is kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a Texas Monthly restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months Send correspondence to Restaurant Guide, Texas Monthly, Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
Star Policy, Credit Cards, and Price Seal
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blan
DS: Discover MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Or: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, and tip. Inexpensive: less than $10. Moderate: $10-$25. Expensive: $25-$40. Very expensive: more than $40.
Wheelchair Accessibility
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and all major facilities are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant z accommodate wheelchairs.
(No symbol) This place is not accessible.
Austin
[UPDATE] Asti Trattoria 408 E. 43rd (512-451-1218). With its red topped tables and stainless steel accents, the upscale deco diner Asti is a sleek but warm neighborhood hangout. The amuse on our visit was a sliver of toast topped with green tomato and goat cheese. Sensational, it portended good things to come: a spicy seafood risotto--a heavenly mound of saffron-perfumed rice studded with fresh mussels and fat shrimp. Bar. Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
BBQ World Headquarters 6701 6urnet Rd (512-323-9112). Expect delectable oak-smoked barbecue: tender sliced brisket (Certified Angus, mind you), spicy sausage, baby back pork ribs whose meat falls right off the bone. Listening to country radio, we enjoyed our 'cue with icy Big Reds and potato salad at a picnic table outside. BYOB Lunch Mon-Sat 11 4. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Fonda San Miguel 2330 W. North Loop Blvd (512-459-4121). What a jewel this little piece Mexico is--happy hour in its tropical courtyard erases cares of the world Skip the mundane tortilla soup and go for a tart, sassy salad of marinated nopalitos, then follow it with good duck breast in a smooth roasted-poblano sauce (reminiscent of asparagus) or the fantastic crab enchiladas in source-cream salsa suiza. Tres leches cake is sweeter than a goodnight kiss. Bar. Open Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri-Sat 5:30-10 Sun brunch 11-2. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Guero's Taco Bar 1412 S. Congress Ave (512-447-7688). Thanks to a large and always packed house, the food can be hit-or-miss. But--seduced by the aroma of fresh corn tortillas--we just focus on what we like: real margaritas, fiery salsas, the airy former-feed-store locale. We gobbled up the Guero's Dip--layers of refried beans, avocado, and cheese--and the burrito especial: a flour tortilla filled with beans and cheese and topped with chile con queso. Bar, Open Sun 8 a.m.-11 p.m., Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat 8 am.-11 p.m. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] * Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Sheets of rain couldn't dampen the mood inside this cozy ranch house near Lake Travis. Our mood actually grew sunny with the arrival of our entrees: hot-and-crunchy ruby trout and beef tenderloin with a lobster medaillon. Brilliant. Chef-owner Jeff Blank scored a perfect nine. Our one criticism: The menu rarely changes. Bar. Dinner Sun-Fri 6-9, Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Expensive to very expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
** Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). We could tell our friend was seething with envy when we "casually" mentioned our upcoming evening at the fine restaurant. After all, who wouldn't crow a bit when masterpieces--creamy summer squash soup with chipotle and crab and kicky grilled shrimp served atop couscous and roasted-pepper salsa--awaited. We'd be green too. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $38 & $60). Cr. (W) With assistance.
[UPDATE] Louie's 106 106 E. 6th (512-476-2010). May we ramble on about the finest Cobb salad in town? First comes a layer of shredded, juicy rotisserie chicken, then an ample scattering of feta, cucumber, tomato, and kalamata olives. Finally, there is an underpinning of field greens in a sweet-tart balsamic vinaigrette. Is it a classic Cobb? No, just excellent. At night, have a Mediterranean-inflected entree in Louie's spacious, marble-floored dining room. Bar. Open Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri 11:30-11, Sat 6-11. Moderate to expensive, Cr. (W+)
Malaga 208 W. 4th (512-236-8020). Exhibiting a sophistication lacking in some of its flashier neighbors, this tapas bar has always felt a bit like an oasis in the Warehouse District. It's also one of the only places in the city serving Spanish cuisine. Try the samcocho con mojo verde, tangy fried fish served with cilantro salsa, and the empanadas Cadiz stuffed with chicken, garlic, and onion. Extensive wine list, Bar. Dinner Mon-Wed 5-midnight, Thur Sat 5-2. Closed Sun. Upper moderate Cr. (W+)
South Congress Cafe 1600 S. Congress Ave (512-447-3905). Funky SoCo, meet the trendy new kid on the block. The South Congress Care offers an upscale yet affordable medley of dishes, all served up on mod pastel plates. We started with the chipotle shrimp quesadillas, followed by a spunky mesquite-grilled pork loin sided by out-of-this-world garlic-potato enchiladas. Bar. Dinner 7 days 5-10. Brunch Sat & Sun 10-2. Moderate to lower expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] T&S Seafood Restaurant 10014 N. Lamar Blvd, north of Rutland (512-339-8434). Atmosphere: Zero. Service: All in the family (or mostly so). Food: Extremely fine. The star of our last outing was steamed chicken with ginger and scallions, a flavorful hacked up fowl (yes, hacked in slices, not disjointed) with a delicious ginger-garlic dipping oil. Beer & wine. Lunch 7 days 11-2:30. Dinner Sun & Mon 5-1, Tue 5 10, Wed-Sat 5-1. Moderate to lower expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Uchi 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). The former home of Si Bon has been reborn as a stylish sushi spot--think rock gardens and bamboo. Chef Tyson Cole (formerly of Musashino) prepares impeccably fresh, beautifully plated sushi and sashimi like the luscious yellowtail with ponzu sauce and sliced chiles. Creative cooked dishes include binnaga kaku, seared pepper-encrusted albacore with soy-ginger vinaigrette Beer, wine & sake. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. AE, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] Zoot 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Had we sauntered into this cozy cottage with "immature, penny-pinching, ill-mannered customer" tattooed on our brow, Zoot's tip-top staff would still have treated us like aristocrats. Complementing the service is the equally impressive work of chef Michael Hall, whose pan-roasted halibut atop a flavorful mango-and-cucumber relish had us oohing and aahing. Bar. Dinner Sun 5:30-10, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Babbo's Italian Gelato and Coffee 26 Doors shopping center, 1206 W. 38th (512 320-8029). Cool both the clean-lined new gelato bar and the Italian ice creams it dispenses. Owner Matthew Lee trained in Italy, so he's got the moves down on great flavors like chocolate truffle, can taloupe, and zabione. Pour a shot of espresso on your favorite choice for a true Italian summer treat, an affogato. Open Sun 9 10, Mon-Thur 6 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri 6 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat 8 am.-11 p.m. Inexpensive. MC, V. (W+)
Iron Chef 9070 Research Blvd (512-275-9622). The furnishings fell a bit short (think converted Furr's cafeteria with trippy revolving lights), but the Chinese (yes, Chinese despite the name) food delivered. An enthusiastic waitress detailed her favorites (including pancake-wrapped Beijing duck, which to our amusement she dubbed a "Chinese Taco Bell taco") and led us to the Iron Chef Special Beef (a stir-fry in a spicy sauce). Bar. Open Sun 11:30-10, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-10:30, Sat 11:30-10:30. Moderate to expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Swad 9515 N. Lamar (512-997-7923). The order-at-the-counter setting may prompt you to get your food to go at this Indian vegetarian spot. But though the decor lacks inspiration, the cuisine has plenty. This is hearty southern Indian comfort food that melds sweet and savory, cool and spicy. Try the masala dose, with its fragrant potatoes, or the crisp eggplant pakora, thick chunks battered and fried. Accompanying yogurts and chutneys are excellent. Open Sun 11:30-9:30, Mort & Wed-Fri 11:30-2:30 & 5-9:30, Sat 11:30-9:30. Closed Tue. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
[UPDATE] AI-T's Seafood and Steakhouse Texas Hwy 124 & Spur 5, Winnie (409-296-9818). The menu at the well-known cajun roadhouse ran our decision making ability through the ringer. Crawfish, boudin (made on-site), shrimp, oysters, frogs' legs, quail, chicken, steak--so many choices, so little time. We finally settled on an appetizer of bite-size boudin nuggets and kicked-up crabmeat au gratin casserole. Thibodeaux's Special, an eight-ounce ribeye topped with crawfish etoufee, is on our what-to-eat-next-time list. Bar. Open Sun 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Mon-Thur 6 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 6 a.m.-11 p.m. Moderate. Cr.
Carla's Cupboard 2839 Nail, Port Neches (409-729-1150). Old Mother Hubbard didn't do much for the reputation of cupboards, but Carla has nothing to worry about. Hers is brimming with pastries, pies, sandwiches, and off-the-grill fare. The sweets--including fabulous Key lime pie and a creamy mango smoothie--were heavenly. And the chicken enchilada casserole we picked up from the cooler on the way out only elevated the high opinion we had already formed. Open Mon-Thur 6-6, Fri & Sat 7-5. Closed Sun Cr. (W)
[UPDATE] Channel Inn 7960 Memorial Blvd, Port Arthur (409-727-8222). To satisfy any and all cravings for fish and other swimming critters--and we do mean any, including frog and alligator--this is your place. We started with fried gator, a tad chewy for our taste, and fresh crawfish boudin balls that went nicely with their ranch dipping sauce. Spicy blackened redfish satisfied, as did the stuffed-shrimp platter, even though the shrimp tasted mainly of filling. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Sartin's Seafood 6725 Eastex Fwy (US Hwy 69), Beaumont (409-892-6771). Afraid of a little mess? Then this family-owned joint is not for you. Sartin's all-you-can-eat platter-which includes barbecue-seasoned crabs (a specialty), fried catfish, crab-stuffed jalapenos (our fave), and more--will dirty plenty a napkin. Thankfully, there's a trash can at every table. BYOB. Open 7 days 11-10. Moderate. AE, MC, V. (W+)
Spindletop 290 Crockett, Beaumont (409-833-9688). Please excuse the pun, but a recent visit to the hip, high-ceilinged place left us (cue cymbals) gushing. Baked spinach dip was a hit, and the worldly chicken trio--three breasts prepared with three influences (Southwest, Hawaiian, and Tuscan) all atop of a bed of rice--earned its share of raves. Airy tiramisu "topped" the meal off nicely. Bar. Open Sun 114, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Lunch Counter 7771 9th Ave, Port Arthur (409-729-9800). The location may be new--a strip-mall spot shared with Primo's--but the ultra-gracious service, community-friendly vibe, and reasonable prices remain unchanged. We opted for breakfast fare--french toast made with cinnamon raisin bread and a generous portion of diced ham and scrambled eggs. Hot lunches and homemade pies are also specialties. Open Sun 7-2, Mort-Sat 5-2. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
Corpus Christi
Blue Swan in the 600 Building, 600 Leopard St (361-887-7662). At this no-nonsense dell we liked the muffuletta, hearty portions of sliced ham and salami, provolone, and olive dressing on freshly baked onion bread. A companion's Reuben was equally satisfying, featuring plenty of corned beef, melted Swiss, sauerkraut, and creamy Russian dressing on rye. Open Mon-Fri 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Closed Sat & Sun. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
Imperial Cafe 5902 S. Staples (361-980-1423). A trendy Asian eatery, the Imperial Cafe offers more than 100 different sushi rolls (we prefer the Rainbow Roll--cucumber and crab inside with fresh tuna, salmon, and avocado outside). The house special of salmon-mango curry proved a delightful combination of hot and cold and spicy and sweet. Crimson walls, white tablecloths, and a huge aquarium make for a smart look. Beer & wine. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:15. Dinner Mon-Thur 6-9:30, Fri & Sat 6-9:45. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Rosita's 5253 S. Staples (361-906-1007). Consistency is the hallmark at Rosita's, where platters of tacos, enchiladas, and fajitas keep the crowds coming. The classic cheesy enchiladas covered in chile sauce are our favorite, On a recent visit the gorditas were delicious, Watch the kitchen staff prepare your meal at the open grill in the center of the dining room. Bar. Open Sun 8 a.m-9 p.m., Mon-Thur 6 a.m.-9p.m., Fri 6-10, Sat 8-10. Inexpensive Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Snoopy's Pier 13313 S. Padre Island Dr (361-949-8815). Cap off a day at the beach with a visit to the open-air waterfront eatery decked out with fishing rods and painted life preservers. Crispy breaded shrimp, fried fresh fish, and crabmeat-stuffed jalapenos (also fried) are among our top picks. We'll vouch for the tasty burgers too. Beer & wine. Open 7 days 11-10. Inexpensive to moderate. No Cr. (W)
Tokyo Den 5625 S. Padre Island Dr (361-992-9611)We love this soothing little Japanese restaurant, with its fresh food and relaxing ambience (including a trickling fountain at the entrance). It's also one of the best lunchtime bargains in town: For $6.50, you can get a bowl of miso soup, a teriyaki steak or chicken breast, steamed rice, tossed salad, fried pork dumplings, and a sushi roll. Beer & wine. Open Sun 5 9:30, Mon-Thur 11:30 9:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-10:30. Inexpensive to moderate. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
Yardarm 4310 Ocean Dr (361 855-8157). The sunshine-yellow Yardarm is a bright spot on the city's culinary scene. Tuna--a thick filet topped with cracked peppercorns complemented by a roasted-red-pepper cream sauce stole the show, although flounder, stuffed with seasoned crabmeat, came in a close second Ship's lanterns add to the casual maritime setting. Bar. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W)
Dallas
Abacus 4511 McKinney Ave (214-559-3111). We got off to an elegant start with a fresh spinach salad with Bosc pears, fontina, and grilled portobellos. Grilled blue (yes, blue) snapper with port-wine butter and lobster-scallion risotto was a palate pleasing second course, In keeping with the mood, we indulged in a sophisticated dessert of artisanal cheeses Bar. Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Very expensive. Cr. (W+)...
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