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The fusion thing: the Dallas dining scene is sizzling with the foods of Central and South America, from plaintains to pupusas. Say hola to Nuevo Latino.

Article Excerpt
I ADMIT IT: I'VE GOT DALLAS STEREOTYPED AS A white-bread kind of place. But whenever I head there for an eating binge, I'm struck by the wealth of ethnic flavors swirling and simmering beneath its blue-eyed, blond-highlighted surface. You want African? Filipino? Turkish? They're all there and more. In the past few months, however, my fancy has been caught by an emerging culinary arena, one with dishes that are destined to become--some already are-mainstream in urban Texas.

If you've noticed that Cuban mojitos are the happy-hour rage, you know what I mean. If you're already hooked on garlic-and-green-herb chimichurri sauce, Argentina's answer to pesto, or if you've nibbled a fried plantain slice in lieu of a tortilla chip, you're on the wavelength. Thanks to its location, Texas is a major launching pad for the Latin Century. We have been schooled ha the ways of chiles, corn, and beans ever since Texas was all unruly province of Mexico. But a few decades ago, immigrants from Central and South America started bringing their own robust tropical flavors and traditions north. Some of these, also native to Mexico, are familiar (think empanadas, ceviche, guacamole, mangoes, and achiote). Others are decidedly exotic (Peruvian roast guinea pig, anyone?). Meanwhile, just as American chefs have raided the larders of Japan, Thailand, the Mediterranean, and the American Sonthwest for...

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