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Article Excerpt
July 2003
Policies and Definitions
The Restaurant Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identity is kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a Texas Monthly restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to Restaurant Guide, Texas Monthly, Box 1569, Austin 78767.
Star Policy, Credit Cards, and Price Scale
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, tax, and tip. Inexpensive: less than $10. Moderate: $10-$25. Expensive: $25-$40. Very expensive: more than $40.
Wheelchair Accessibility
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and all major facilities are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
(No symbol) This place is not accessible.
Austin
Aquarelle 606 Rio Grande (512-479-8117). On a downtown side street sits this gem of a French restaurant, politely beckoning with tiny white lights and a curry-yellow facade. The tuna with baby artichokes, herbes de Provence, and lemon-infused olive oil was a vibrant marriage of flavors. As for the succulent sauteed lobster with a sprightly tomato confit and sweet-onion coulis--enough said. Beer & wine. Dinner Tue-Thur 6-9:15, Fri & Sat 6-10:15. Closed Sun & Mon. Expensive to very expensive (prix fixe four-course $50, six-course upon request $75). Cr. (W+)
Cafe Bleu 8714 Lime Creek Rd; head west on FM 2222 (it will turn into Bullock Hollow), take a left on FM 2769 (Volente Beach Rd) and continue for 4 miles, then take a right on Lime Creek Rd and go 2.2 miles until you reach the marina (512-401-2538). We're so happy that this spot--not your typical lakeside dive but a cafe with European charm--has reopened. Our steamed mussels came in a white-wine broth so delicious we sopped it up with bread, and our spinach salad with pecan-crusted chicken was divine. Bar. Open Sun 10:30-10, Mon-Wed 5-10, Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun brunch 11-1. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Crimson 407 Colorado (512-473-2700). Red-steel supports overhead and novel artwork on the walls have updated Gilligan's old space. On the menu are "naughty" and "nice" sections (high-cal and lesser-cal). Appropriately naughty, fried wontons came filled with minced shrimp and tasso, while a light baby spinach salad was topped by fresh ahi tuna, lightly crusted with pistachios and seared--nice. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Driskill Grill Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Have dinner with David Bull, just named one of Food and Wine magazine's best new chefs. The lad's presentations are dazzling, as are the Grill's prices. For $32, enjoy duck and more duck: rosy, tender breast; spectacular seared foie gras; and humdrum shredded confit perked up by onion marmalade. Finish your quiet, civilized visit with lush, chiffonlike citrus cake under a jaunty lemon curd cap. Bar. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. Moderate to very expensive. Cr. (W+) Via 7th St entrance.
Eastside Cafe 2113 Manor Rd (512-476-5858). This quiet little house's revamped garden room (once one of our favorite outdoor patios) is a pleasant setting for weekend brunching on blueberry blintzes, Belgian waffles, and perfectly executed eggs Benedict (the smoked-salmon version is a decadent treat). Lunches and dinners offer pastas, soups, and salads that often incorporate produce from Eastside's organic garden. Beer & wine. Open Sun 10-10, Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 10-10. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
* Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Twinkling lights greet you at this limestone ranch house, while the blackened smokehouse assures you that meaty treats await. An entree of venison backstrap wrapped around smoked lobster lacked the richness we expected, but a guava-sour cherry sauce perked it up nicely. We'd dine here often if more affordable wines by the bottle were offered. Bar. Dinner Sun-Thur 6-9, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Expensive to very expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
Jean Luc's Bistro 705 Colorado (512-494-0033). With a fresh face-lift, Jean Luc's is an appealing, clean-lined showcase for chef-owner Shawn Cirkiel's New American menu. On our visit the kitchen was hitting homers. Hints of wild sage and bits of prosciutto bolstered a creamy butternut squash soup, while a bravura entree of duck confit on delicious brown lentils had a beautifully edgy citrus sauce. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] ** Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584) We could tell our friend was seething with envy when we "casually" mentioned a leisurely evening spent at this fine restaurant. Okay, so maybe we were trying to rub it in a little. After all, who wouldn't crow a bit when masterpieces--creamy summer squash soup with chipotle and crab, kicky grilled shrimp served atop couscous and roasted-pepper salsa, vibrant blackberry and mango sorbet--awaited. We'd be a tad green too. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $38 & $60). Cr. (W) With assistance.
Kenichi 419 Colorado (512-320-8883). Beautiful people eating beautiful food amid beautiful environs--yeah, our head turned during a recent visit to this warehouse district hot spot. Tempura-battered Dynamite Shrimp made a kapow! of a starter. The evening's special (macadamia-crusted butterfish drizzled with a coconut-wasabi vinaigrette) also satisfied, but it was dessert--tempura-fried ice cream--that set our spoons to dueling. Bar. Dinner Sun-Wed 5:30-10, Thur-Sat 5:30-11. Expensive to very expensive. Cr. (W+)
Mansion at Judges' Hill 1900 Rio Grande (512-495-1800). Chef John Maxwell, formerly of Zoot, heads the kitchen at this posh new urban inn in the historic Goodall Wooten house. We ordered from the "modern" side of the menu, starting with velvety seared Hudson Valley foie gras with plum sauce. A muted curry emulsion and a warm slaw of savoy cabbage and green apple elevated seared ahi tuna from ordinary to exceptional. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 7-11. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
Roaring Fork InterContinental Stephen F. Austin Hotel, 701 Congress Ave (512-583-0000). Chef-owner Robert McGrath's new upscale Austin outpost of his Arizona original bills itself as an American bistro and saloon, and the rock 'em-sock 'em flavors fit the Western theme. Whiskey-glazed beef tenderloin came out rather dry, but rare albacore tuna was treated with finesse. The best thing on the menu may be the stunningly rich green-chile macaroni and cheese. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Sun 5-9, Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Zin American Bistro and Bar 1601 W. 38th (512-377-5252). Our initial visit found a smart setting, a menu of interesting New American dishes, and a kitchen that cared--the attention to detail evident in a tender pork loin in port-cherry sauce. But our excitement dimmed a bit when a second visit brought a mahimahi special whose flavors fought with each other and other dishes that were competent but, frankly, dull. What's up? Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Tue-Thur 4:30-10, Fri & Sat 4:30-11. Sun brunch 10:30-2:30. Moderate to expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Zoot 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Chef Michael Hall's New American menu is bringing changes to this neighborhood cottage. A terrific starter of truffled Peruvian blue potatoes strutted its stuff alongside a leek confit and irresistibly cute boiled quail eggs. If only the medium-rare duck entree (with poached figs and great gnocchi) had been more tender, it would have been perfect. Beer & wine. Dinner Sun 5:30-11, Tue-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
Z'Tejas 9400 Arboretum Blvd (512-346-3506). With its wood-and-limestone architecture and soaring ceilings, this northern outpost of the beloved Austin-born chain evokes a Hill Country lodge. We enjoyed selections that wander from West Coast to Gulf Coast. The pan-fried snapper, in particular, topped with crabmeat, salsa fresca, and cilantro cream sauce was a crunchy, tangy delight. Bar. Open Sun 10-10, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 10-11. Call for other location. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Flying Tomato Pizza Kitchen 1600 W. 35th at Kerbey Ln (512-419-1900). Here's a fine little to-go-only gourmet pizza kitchen. Grab a small pie for a quick lunch, or take home a larger one for a grown-up pizza party. We loved the Wild Thing--four kinds of mushrooms, mozzarella, and a touch of truffle oil. Other combos involve pesto and goat cheese, rosemary chicken and roasted potatoes, and even Gulf shrimp scampi (yes, we're still talking pizza). The spinach salad is a happy toss of baby greens, goat cheese, balsamic vinaigrette, and caramelized pecans. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Sun-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 5-10, Moderate. Cr. (W)
Sasha's Gourmet Russian Market and Cafe 5523 Balcones Dr (512-459-1449). A tiny slice of Russia in hippie Austin? Here it is--between a Subway sandwich shop and the Groovy Dog Bakery. Although primarily an imported-foods market--the spread left our companion of Polish heritage giddily exclaiming, "I feel so at home"--Sasha's makes room for seven tables and a limited menu that features a variety of blintzes (we enjoyed one filled with roasted eggplant and sweet cheese). Sadly, no vodka is served, but condiments arrive in shot glasses. BYOB (complimentary mimosas Sat & Sun). Open Sun 11-5:30, Mon-Wed 11-7, Thur-Sat 11-9. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Uchi 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). "Uchi" is Japanese for "house," but you'll hardly recognize the former home of Si Bon. It's been reborn as a stylish sushi spot--think accents of robin's-egg blue and sunset-orange, rock gardens, and bamboo. Chef Tyson Cole (formerly of Musashino) has rounded up a passel of spirited chefs and an engaging staff to help you select impeccably fresh, beautifully plated sushi and sashimi, like the luscious yellowtail with ponzu sauce and sliced chiles, while also steering you toward creative cooked dishes like binnaga kuku, seared pepper-encrusted albacore with soy-ginger vinaigrette, and Japanese pumpkin tempura. Beer, wine & sake. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
Carlo's 2570 Calder, Beaumont (409-833-0108). After starting with a sampler of Greek meatballs; fried calamari, zucchini, and mozzarella; and carciofini ripieni (deep-fried artichokes served with a siciliano tomato sauce), we hardly had room for a pizza with white sauce, chicken, and artichoke hearts. (Don't worry. We made space.) Serene atmosphere creates a popular dinner-date destination. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Elena's 6290 Phelan, Beaumont (409-861-2800) and 1865 College, Beaumont (409-832-1203). We found the Phelan location of this Mexican restaurant a relaxing spot for lunch. The cheesy goodness of the casserole-like queso fundido con pollo was worth every fat-laden calorie. Our companion's pechuga con queso, a grilled chicken breast topped with queso and served with rice and beans, was one of the $4.95 lunch specials. Bar. Phelan: Open Sun-Thur 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri & Sat 8-10. College: Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Green Beanery Cafe 2121 McFaddin, Beaumont (409-833-5913). Chef-owner Jim Morrison is keeping culinary excellence alive in Beaumont at this romantic converted house. An appetizer of artichoke hearts stuffed with Texas goat cheese in sherry creme brulee tempted, but we saved ourselves for an entree of grilled swordfish with pineapple-red pepper-ginger relish. White-chocolate Grand Marnier mousse rewarded our earlier restraint. Beer & wine. Lunch Tue-Fri 11-2, Sat 11:30-1:30. Dinner Tue-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
Hoffbrau Steaks 2310 N. 11th, Beaumont (409-692-6911). The outdoor beer garden is the real draw of this otherwise typical Texas steakhouse (each of the 26 locations is individually owned). We started with the Brau Sampler, a platter of boudin balls, thinly sliced fried potatoes, fried mushrooms, and fried cheese. We got what we paid for with the $16.95 Texas T-bone, a generous 16-ounce cut of tender meat. Bar. Open Sun 11-9, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
Rao's Bakery and Coffee Cafe 2596 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-832-4342) and 4440 Dowlen Rd, Beaumont (409347-3400). Established in 1941, Rao's offers more than sandwiches and salads. The outdoor patio at the Calder location is a perfect spot to relax with a coffee drink and baked delights such as eclairs oozing with cream filling and smothered in chocolate. Or go the healthier route with a mango smoothie. Calder: Open Mon-Thur 6:30-6, Fri 6:30-8, Sat 7-3. Closed Sun. Dowlen: Open Sun 7:30-8, Mon-Thur 6:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11. Inexpensive. AE, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] Sartin's Seafood 6725 Eastex Fwy, Beaumont (409-892-6771). Afraid of a little mess. Then this family-owned joint is not the place for you. Sartin's all-you-can-eat platter--which includes broiled crab claws, barbecue-seasoned crabs (a house specialty), fried catfish, fried shrimp, stuffed crab, crab-stuffed jalapenos (our rave), fries, and hushpuppies--will dirty plenty a napkin (and shirt front if you're not careful). Thankfully, there's a trash can at every table. Our companion isn't a huge fan of greasy hands, so he opted for the week's special: Gulf flounder. BYOB. Open 7 days 11-10. Moderate. AE, MC, V. (W+)
Willy Ray's 145 I-10N, Beaumont (409-832-7770). Our favorite items here are the St. Louis pork spareribs (large, lean, and meaty), the carrot souffle, and the garlic potatoes. Numerous to-go meals are on display in a freezer. The decor is atypical for a barbecue place: dark, polished woods and floral prints. Beer & wine. Open 7 days 11-9. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Corpus Christi
Bayou Grill 3741 S. Alameda (361-854-8626). We like the tiny skillet of sweet cornbread that begins each meal, but in our opinion, most everything else needs work. Our fried shrimp stuffed with seasoned bread crumbs were not memorable, and our cajun potatoes proved bland. At least the creamy coarse-cut coleslaw stood out. Decor is faux-swamp. Beer & wine. Open Sun 11-2 (light fare only), Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Moderate. Cr. (W)
Lin's China Bistro 4201 S. Padre Island Dr (361-857-6060). Lacquered tables with art inlays elevate this new Chinese restaurant a notch above its competitors, but some of the fare is less lofty. Chicken in lettuce wraps arrived with a head of iceberg that had been dumped, dripping wet, upside down on a plate. Where's the presentation? The Orange Peel Beef was better, featuring tender meat that had been batter-fried, then tossed in a chile-spiked orange-flavored sauce. Sushi is also available. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11 10:30, Fri & Sat 11-11:30. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Republic of Texas Omni Bayfront Hotel, 900 N. Shoreline (361-886-3515). The view of the Corpus Christi Bay (from 20 stories up) is stunning, perfect for a special night out. The offerings are impressive too, from delicious wilted spinach salad, tossed with hot bacon dressing, to ahi tuna--a sesame-coated, pan-seared steak in a sweet port reduction with a small jasmine rice cake. Good wine selection. Bar. Dinner Sun 5:30-9, Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Expensive. Cr. (W)
[UPDATE] Rosita's 5253 S. Staples (361-906-1007). Consistency is the hallmark at this Tex-Mex spot, where heaping platters of tacos, enchiladas, and fajitas keep the crowds coming. The classic cheesy enchiladas covered in chile sauce are our favorite. We also rate the fluffy Spanish rice and the thick homemade flour tortillas high. On a recent visit the gorditas proved delicious, especially the one stuffed with seasoned ground beef and sliced avocado. Watch the kitchen staff prepare your meal at the open grill in the center of the dining room. Bar. Open Sun 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Mon-Thur 6 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri 6-10, Sat 8-10. Inexpensive. Cr. (W)
Rusty's 1645 Airline (361-993-5000). When you must have a thick burger on a homemade bun, it's hard to beat...
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