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Article Excerpt
AUGUST 2003
Policies and Definitions
The Restaurant Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identity is kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a Texas Monthly restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to Restaurant Guide, Texas Monthly, Box 1569, Austin 78767.
Star Policy, Credit Cards, and Price Scale
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche.
DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, tax, and tip. Inexpensive: less than $10. Moderate: $10-$25. Expensive: $25-$40. Very expensive: more than $40.
Wheelchair Accessibility
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and all major facilities are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
(No symbol) This place is not accessible.
Austin
UPDATE BBQ World Headquarters 6701 Burnet Rd (512-323-9112). You can expect a warm welcome at this family-run enterprise. You can also expect delectable oak-smoked barbecue: tender sliced brisket (Certified Angus, mind you), spicy sausage, baby back pork ribs whose meat falls right off the bone. Listening to country radio, we enjoyed our 'cue with icy Big Reds and potato salad at a picnic table outside, then followed it all with Freestone peaches from the farmer's market just steps away--a perfect summer afternoon in Texas. BYOB. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-4. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
Cafe Bleu 8714 Lime Creek Rd; head west on FM 2222 (it will turn into Bullock Hollow), take a left on FM 2769 (Volente Beach Rd) and continue for 4 miles, then take a right on Lime Creek Rd and go 2.2 miles until you reach the marina (512-401-2538). We're so happy that this spot--not your typical lakeside dive but a cafe with European charm--has reopened. Our steamed mussels came in a white-wine broth so delicious we sopped it up with bread, and our spinach salad with pecan-crusted chicken was divine. Bar. Open Sun 10:30-10, Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun brunch 10:30-1. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Crimson 407 Colorado (512-473-2700). Red-steel supports overhead and novel artwork on the walls have updated Gilligan's old space. On the menu are "naughty" and "nice" sections (high-cal and lesser-cal). Appropriately naughty, fried wontons came filled with minced shrimp and tasso, while a light baby spinach salad was topped by fresh ahi tuna, lightly crusted with pistachios and seared--nice. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Drilkill Grill Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). Have dinner with David Bull, just named one of Food & Wine magazine's best new chefs. The lad's presentations are dazzling, as are the Grill's prices. For $32, enjoy duck and more duck: rosy, tender breast; spectacular seared foie gras; and humdrum shredded confit perked up by onion marmalade. Finish your quiet, civilized visit with lush, chiffonlike citrus cake under a jaunty lemon curd cap. Bar. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. Moderate to very expensive. Cr. (W+) Via 7th St entrance.
Eastside Cafe 2113 Manor Rd (512-476-5858). This quiet little house's revamped garden room (once one of our favorite outdoor patios) is a pleasant setting for weekend brunching on blueberry blintzes, Belgian waffles, and perfectly executed eggs Benedict (the smoked-salmon version is a decadent treat). Lunches and dinners offer pastas, soups, and salads that often incorporate produce from Eastside's organic garden. Beer & wine. Open Sun 10-10, Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 10-10. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
*Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Twinkling lights greet you at this limestone ranch house, while the blackened smokehouse assures you that meaty treats await. An entree of venison backstrap wrapped around smoked lobster lacked the richness we expected, but a guava-sour cherry sauce perked it up nicely. We'd dine here often if more affordable wines by the bottle were offered. Bar. Dinner Sun-Fri 6-9, Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Expensive to very expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
Jean Luc's Bistro 705 Colorado (512-494-0033). With a fresh face-lift, Jean Luc's is an appealing, clean-lined showcase for chef-owner Shawn Cirkiel's New American menu. On our visit the kitchen was hitting homers. Hints of wild sage and bits of prosciutto bolstered a creamy butternut squash soup, while a bravura entree of duck confit on delicious brown lentils had a beautifully edgy citrus sauce. Bar. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
**Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). We could tell our friend was seething with envy when we "casually" mentioned a leisurely evening spent at this fine restaurant. After all, who wouldn't crow a bit when masterpieces--creamy summer squash soup with chipotle and crab, kicky grilled shrimp served atop couscous and roasted-pepper salsa, vibrant blackberry and mango sorbet--awaited. We'd be green too. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $38 & $60). Cr. (W) With assistance.
UPDATE Malage 208 W. 4th (512-236-8020). Exhibiting a sophistication lacking in some of its more-flashy neighbors, this tapas bar, with its weathered wood floors and Moorish lanterns, has always felt a bit like an oasis in the Warehouse District. It's also one of the only places in the city serving anything even resembling Spanish cuisine. Try the samcocho con mojo verde, tangy fried fish served with cilantro salsa, and the empanadas Cadiz, stuffed with chicken, garlic, and onion and served with a spicy tomato sauce. And we'd be remiss not to mention the reasonably priced, 402-bottle wine list. Bar. Dinner Mon-Wed 5-midnight, Thur-Sat 5-2 a.m. Closed Sun. Upper moderate. Ct. (W+)
Mansion at Judges' Hill 1900 Rio Grande (512-495-1800). Chef John Maxwell, formerly of Zoot, heads the kitchen at this posh new urban inn in the historic Goodall Wooten house. We ordered from the "modern" side of the menu, starting with velvety seared Hudson Valley foie gras with plum sauce. A muted curry emulsion and a warm slaw of savoy cabbage and green apple elevated seared ahi tuna from ordinary to exceptional. Bar. Open Sun & Tue-Sat 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Closed Mon. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
Roaring Fork intercontinental Stephen F. Austin Hotel, 701 Congress Ave (512-583-0000). Chef-owner Robert McGrath's new upscale Austin outpost of his Arizona original bills itself as an American bistro and saloon, and the rock 'em-sock 'em flavors fit the Western theme. Whiskey-glazed beef tenderloin came out rather dry, but rare albacore tuna was treated with finesse. The best thing on the menu may be the stunningly rich green-chile macaroni and cheese. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Sun 5-9, Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
Uchi 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808). The former home of Si Bon has been reborn as a stylish sushi spot--think accents of sunset-orange, rock gardens, and bamboo. Chef Tyson Cole (formerly of Musashino) prepares impeccably fresh, beautifully plated sushi and sashimi, like the luscious yellowtail with ponzu sauce and sliced chiles. Creative cooked dishes include binnaga kaku, seared pepper-encrusted albacore with soy-ginger vinaigrette. Beer, wine & sake. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. AE, MC, V. (W+)
Zin American Bistro end Bar 1601 W. 38th (512-377-5252). Our initial visit found a smart setting, a menu of interesting New American dishes, and attention to detail, evident in a tender pork loin in port-cherry sauce. But our second visit brought a mahimahi special whose flavors fought with each other and other dishes that were competent but, frankly, dull. What's up? Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Tue-Thur 4:30-10, Fri & Sat 4:30-11. Sun brunch 10:30-2:30. Moderate to expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Zoot 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Chef Michael Hall's New American menu is bringing changes to this neighborhood cottage. A terrific starter of truffled Peruvian blue potatoes strutted its stuff alongside a leek confit and irresistibly cute boiled quail eggs. If only the medium-rare duck entree (with poached figs and great gnocchi) had been more tender, it would have been perfect. Beer & wine. Dinner Sun 5:30-11, Tue-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
South Congress Cafe 1600 S. Congress Ave (512-447-3905). Funky SoCo, meet the trendy new kid on the block. From the folks behind Trudy's and destined to be a hipster hangout, the South Congress Cafe offers an upscale yet refreshingly affordable medley of dishes, all served up on mod pastel plates. We started with the chipotle shrimp quesadillas, surprisingly restrained despite a quartet of cheeses. Spunky mesquite-grilled pork loin sided by out-of-this-world garlic-potato enchiladas were excellent. The pretty people will be happy. Bar. Dinner 7 days 5-10. Brunch Sat & Sun 10-2. Reservations recommended. Moderate to lower expensive. Cr. (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
Carlo's 2570 Calder, Beaumont (409-833-0108). After starting with a sampler of Greek meatballs; fried calamari, zucchini, and mozzarella; and carciofini ripieni (deep-fried artichokes served with a siciliano tomato sauce), we hardly had room for a pizza with white sauce, chicken, and artichoke hearts. (Don't worry. We made space.) The serene atmosphere creates a popular dinner-date destination. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. Cr. (W)
Green Beanery Cafe 2121 McFaddin, Beaumont (409-833-5913). Chef-owner Jim Morrison is keeping culinary excellence alive in Beaumont at this romantic converted house. An appetizer of artichoke hearts stuffed with Texas goat cheese in sherry creme brulee tempted, but we saved ourselves for an entree of grilled swordfish with pineapple-red pepper-ginger relish. White-chocolate Grand Marnier mousse rewarded our earlier restraint. Beer & wine. Lunch Tue-Fri 11-2, Sat 11:30-1:30. Dinner Tue-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
Rao's Bakery and Coffee Cafe 2596 Calder Ave, Beaumont (409-832-4342) and 4440 Dowlen Rd, Beaumont (409-347-3400). Established in 1941, Rao's offers more than sandwiches and salads. The outdoor patio at the Calder location is a perfect spot to relax with a coffee drink and baked delights such as eclairs oozing with cream filling and smothered in chocolate. Or go the healthier route with a mango smoothie. Calder: Open Mon-Thur 6:30-6, Fri 6:30-8, Sat 7-3. Closed Sun. Dowlen: Open Sun 7:30-8, Mon-Thur 6:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11. Inexpensive. AE, MC, V. (W+)
Sartin's Seafood 6725 Eastex Fwy (US Hwy 69), Beaumont (409-892-6771). Afraid of a little mess? Then this family-owned joint is not for you. Sartin's all-you-can-eat platter--which includes barbecue-seasoned crabs (a specialty), fried catfish, fried shrimp, crab-stuffed jalapenos (our fave), hushpuppies, and more--will dirty plenty a napkin (and shirt front if you're not careful). Thankfully, there's a trash can at every table. BYOB. Open 7 days 11-10. Moderate. AE, MC, V. (W+)
UPDATE Spindletop 290 Crockett, Beaumont (409-833-9688). Please excuse the pun, but a recent visit to this hip, high-ceilinged spot left us (cue cymbals) gushing. Baked spinach dip was a hit with us, and, judging by its prevalence at nearby tables, a hit with many others as well. Also garnering raves was the worldly chicken trio--three breasts prepared with three influences (Southwest, Hawaiian, and Tuscan) all atop of a bed of rice. The tender prime rib sandwich came with admirably crispy fries. Airy tiramisu "topped" the meal off nicely. Bar. Open Sun 11-8, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Carla's Cupboard 2839 Nall, Port Neches (409-729-1150). Old Mother Hubbard didn't do much for the reputation of cupboards, but Carla has nothing to worry about. Hers is brimming with pastries, pies, cakes, fresh breads, and a substantial menu of sandwiches, salads, and off-the-grill fare. The sweets--we sampled fabulous Key lime pie and a creamy mango smoothie--were heavenly. And the chicken enchilada casserole that we grabbed from the cooler on our way out only elevated the high opinion we had already formed. Cute fifties-era decor. Open Mon-Sat 6-6. Closed Sun. Cr. (W)
Corpus Christi
UPDATE Blue Swan in the 600 Building 600 Leopard St (361-887-7662). Generous sandwiches on thick slices of freshly baked bread draw lunch crowds to this no-nonsense deli. We like the muffuletta, hearty portions of sliced ham and salami, provolone, and olive dressing on onion bread (you can also choose French, wheat, white, or rye). A companion's Reuben was equally respectable, featuring plenty of corned beef, melted Swiss, sauerkraut, and creamy Russian dressing on rye. We made a mental note to try the pastries and turnovers on our next visit. Open Mon-Fri 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Closed Sat & Sun. Inexpensive. Cr. (W)
UPDATE Imperial Cafe 5902 S. Staples (361-980-1423). A trendy Asian eatery, the Imperial Cafe offers more than 100 different sushi rolls (we prefer the Rainbow Roll--cucumber and crab inside with fresh tuna, salmon, and avocado outside). If you need more of a variety, the kitchen also does Thai and Vietnamese. The house special of salmon-mango curry, a delightful combination of hot and cold and spicy and sweet, came with slices of creamy avocado and sauteed red and green peppers. Crimson walls, white tablecloths, and a huge aquarium make for a smart look. Beer & wine. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:15. Dinner Mon-Sat 6-9:45. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W)
Lin's China Bistro 4201 S. Padre Island Dr (361-857-6060). Lacquered tables with art inlays elevate this new Chinese restaurant a notch above its competitors, but some of the fare is less lofty. Chicken in lettuce wraps arrived with a head of iceberg that had been dumped, dripping wet, upside down on a plate. Where's the presentation? The Orange Peel Beef was better, featuring tender meat that had been batter-fried, then tossed in a chile-spiked orange-flavored sauce. Sushi is also available. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-10:30, Fri & Sat 11-11:30. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Rosita's 5253 S. Staples (361-906-1007). Consistency is the hallmark at Rosita's, where heaping platters of tacos, enchiladas, and fajitas keep the crowds coming. The classic cheesy enchiladas covered in chile sauce are our favorite. On a recent visit the gorditas proved delicious, especially the one stuffed with seasoned ground beef and sliced avocado. Watch the kitchen staff prepare your meal at the open grill in the center of the dining room. Bar. Open Sun 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Mon-Thur 6 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri 6-10, Sat 8-10. Inexpensive. Cr. (W)
UPDATE Tokyo Den 5625 S. Padre Island Dr (361-992-9611). We love this soothing little Japanese restaurant, with its fresh food and relaxing ambience (including a trickling fountain at the entrance). It's also one of the best lunchtime bargains in town: For $6.50, you can get a bowl of miso soup, a teriyaki steak or chicken breast, steamed rice, tossed salad, fried pork dumplings, and a sushi roll. Beer & wine. Open Sun 5-9:30, Mon-Thur 11:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-10:30. Inexpensive to moderate. Cr. (W)
Yardarm 4310 Ocean Dr (361-855-8157). The sunshine-yellow Yardarm is a bright spot on the city's culinary scene. Tuna--a thick filet topped with cracked peppercorns complemented by a roasted-red-pepper cream sauce--stole the show on a recent evening, although our companion's tender flounder, stuffed with seasoned crabmeat, came in a close second. Ship's lanterns add to the casual maritime setting. Bar. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W)
Dallas
Abacus 4511 McKinney Ave (214-559-3111). We got off to an elegant start with a fresh spinach salad with Bosc pears, fontina, and grilled portobellos. Grilled blue (yes, blue) snapper with port-wine butter and lobster-scallion risotto was a palate-pleasing second course. In keeping with the...
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