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Article Excerpt
I'M WRITING THIS COLUMN TO APOLOGIZE FOR having laughed at my friend and colleague Sam Gwynne. (I was laughing with you, Sam. Honest.) A recovering Yankee, Sam has made enormous progress in understanding the behavior and tribal customs of Texans during the nine years he's lived here. But there is one thing he just can't seem to get a handle on: As he put it recently, "What the hell is the difference between Mexican food and Tex-Mex?" Sam has been tragically misinformed that all sorts of popular dishes are TexMex--quesadillas, breakfast tacos, charro beans, black beans, tomatillo sauce, flan, and sopaipillas, to name a few. His questions always make my day, but the afternoon he appeared at my office door to ask plaintively, "Are jalapenos Tex-Mex?" I knew he needed serious help. So, for Sam and everybody else who didn't have the good fortune to get here before 1970, here's my short course on the cuisine that was fusion before fusion was hip.
Austin, circa 1955: I'm with my two best friends from junior high school, Laura Ellen and Mary Jean. As they regularly do, Laura Ellen's parents, Mr. and Mrs. Glass, have taken us out to eat Mexican food at El Toro (where the Clay Pit restaurant is now), a big, bustling space filled with tables and vinyl booths and with a large bullfight painting on one wall. While...
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